Gourmand Leather N° 0059 2017

Kol
21.06.2023 - 07:00 PM
4
10
Pricing
6
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
7
Scent

Whispers of Leather and Enigmatic Sweetness

I'd heard some really good things about this perfume, so I decided to head to Zara to pick it up. After spending a few minutes searching the perfume section, I was told that it was sold out. Apparently, it was such a hit that it was gone from most stores. But there was still hope - I was informed that a store about half an hour away might have a bottle left.

So, off I went. After a bit of a drive, I finally arrived at the other store. Turns out they did have the last bottle, but it wasn't even out on the shelves. Some guy had to go fetch it from the back. He looked a bit angry, probably because he had wanted it for himself.

Bottle:
I usually don't have high expectations for fragrances that cost 20 euros, but to be honest, Zara managed to underwhelmed me with the tilted text on the bottle. Otherwise, it gets the job done. The atomizer lets you half-spray it, which I usually like and especially appreciate with a fragrance that has become my choice for "unimportant night-out" situations.

Scent:
It opens with a very strong and relatively nice iris note, which is just a little too powdery, but well accompanied by a leathery note. The leathery note brings to mind chrome-tanned leather sneakers. The combination of iris and leather is nothing new, but it works well this time too.
So far, so good. One would think it's great, even after noticing the citrus accord hiding behind the iris. The combination is vibrant, yet maybe a little soapy at times. But then the sweetness kicks in—an extremely strong, unnatural type of sweetness. It's the kind of sweetness that a bug-eating plant would emit to lure in, confuse, and ultimately make its prey surrender. The sweetness is almost sickening and absolutely soulless. Don't get me wrong, I don't hate it. I just can't really place it in my head. It's somewhat gourmandy, but not tonka bean; it's something synthetic. The scent is rather linear and doesn't change much over time. If anything, the leather and sweetness remain the most dominant notes.

Comparison:
In our olfactory lineup, we have three rivals.
J.P.G. Ultra Male:
As anticipated, Ultra Male is better. However, personally, I prefer this Zara budget beast over it.
Afnan 9pm:
It should be a fair comparison, given how both 9pm and G.L. are considered Ultra Male homages and the prices are similar, but I really, really disliked 9pm and do like the Zara fragrance.
And lastly, Valentino Uomo Intense (new version):
I have noticed similarities when sniffing this Valentino fragrance, which is no wonder because the formula is also similar on paper. However, Valentino is a lot more refined and complex.

Performance:
It's strong enough. People will notice it. I'd say it has a 1-meter sillage for the first 3-4 hours, half a meter for the next 2 hours, ultimately demanding a rather intimate proximity for the final 2 hours.

Use Case:
This fragrance seems to resonate with warmer climates, but it feels somewhat discordant in the winter's chill. It might be overbearing in the peak of summer. So, spring or autumn evenings could be the perfect stage for this scent, especially for an al fresco dinner with friends or a dance party.

Kol Score:
7/10

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