10/10/2014

Apicius
224 Reviews

Apicius
Top Review
8
A Different Approach to Vetiver
Encre Noire is quite a rough guy within the group of vetiver colognes. It gets lots of attention but I couldn't handle its characteristic ink-like admixture which I suppose goes back to the use of cashmere wood. Completely different, however, is Encre Noire Sport. Here, “Sport” stands for a lighter style that wants to please and thus has to avoid eccentric shapes.
All too often the dark, green fragrance note vetiver is the base of ambitious fougères with a firm profile. In my opinion, we should also pay attention to the lighter interpretations. The few examples show that a simple cologne gets a special alignment if this magic note is involved.
In case of Encre Noire Sport the first thing we encounter is a well-done bergamot and graprefruit accord that really suits a “Sport” fragrance. I noticed that this notes complex was fine, harmonic and well-balanced. The unpleasant synthetic appeal of many other sport colognes was missing. It wasn't distinctly aquatic either. Approaching the base, a rather dry, transparent and puristic vetiver note appears which darkens it in a pleasant way. I don't find it appropriate to describe Encre Noire Sport in the sense of a three-step, complex scent development. This would be beyond the limits of this nice cologne.
Sport fragrances as such are candidates for the warmer seasons. Many a fragrance lover, however, would see vetiver located in winter. The light, citric colognes and the sports fragrances let images of sunny days appear in our minds. But a transparent vetiver note like in EN Sport incorporates the cool shadow that a a roof of green leaves or chilly masonry may provide on such a day. I do not want to miss this aspect of summer.
Let's take a look around. I am highly satisfied with Guerlain's Vetiver Sport aka Frozen Fragrance/Eau Glacée. But that is dicontinued. Prada's Infusion de Vetiver contained too much “Infusion” and not enough vetiver to be counted in (also discontinued btw). Carven's “Vétiver” with its modern, puristic appeal could go as a light vetiver – at least compared to “Le Vétiver” from the same house. But the only comparable fragrance that comes to my mind is Annick Goutal's new „Les Colognes – Vétiver“ . One has to criticise that the original vetiver was discontinued with the launch of the light version.
I really would like to promote Encre Noir Sport and this more than scarcely filled niche of light vetivers. Encre Noire Sport could be a discreet companion to those who appreciate the minor forms within in the world of perfume.
All too often the dark, green fragrance note vetiver is the base of ambitious fougères with a firm profile. In my opinion, we should also pay attention to the lighter interpretations. The few examples show that a simple cologne gets a special alignment if this magic note is involved.
In case of Encre Noire Sport the first thing we encounter is a well-done bergamot and graprefruit accord that really suits a “Sport” fragrance. I noticed that this notes complex was fine, harmonic and well-balanced. The unpleasant synthetic appeal of many other sport colognes was missing. It wasn't distinctly aquatic either. Approaching the base, a rather dry, transparent and puristic vetiver note appears which darkens it in a pleasant way. I don't find it appropriate to describe Encre Noire Sport in the sense of a three-step, complex scent development. This would be beyond the limits of this nice cologne.
Sport fragrances as such are candidates for the warmer seasons. Many a fragrance lover, however, would see vetiver located in winter. The light, citric colognes and the sports fragrances let images of sunny days appear in our minds. But a transparent vetiver note like in EN Sport incorporates the cool shadow that a a roof of green leaves or chilly masonry may provide on such a day. I do not want to miss this aspect of summer.
Let's take a look around. I am highly satisfied with Guerlain's Vetiver Sport aka Frozen Fragrance/Eau Glacée. But that is dicontinued. Prada's Infusion de Vetiver contained too much “Infusion” and not enough vetiver to be counted in (also discontinued btw). Carven's “Vétiver” with its modern, puristic appeal could go as a light vetiver – at least compared to “Le Vétiver” from the same house. But the only comparable fragrance that comes to my mind is Annick Goutal's new „Les Colognes – Vétiver“ . One has to criticise that the original vetiver was discontinued with the launch of the light version.
I really would like to promote Encre Noir Sport and this more than scarcely filled niche of light vetivers. Encre Noire Sport could be a discreet companion to those who appreciate the minor forms within in the world of perfume.