Mabon Curious Perfume 2017

This title of a very old Scottish folk song, which was set to its well-known version by Robert Burns, came to my mind spontaneously as I read my notes and the summary of the test of "Mabon" to write a comment about it.
"Mabon" is the ancient Irish pre-Christian festival of the autumn equinox, around September 24.
The natural fragrances from "Wonderchest Perfums," NY, from the series "Wheel for the Year" are meant to reflect each of the ancient Irish festivals. Mrs. Brodskaya's scents are made from natural oils and essences. If alcohol is present in the fragrances, it is only distilled from grains. The perfumes have a traditional feel yet are pleasant, natural, and in my opinion, still unique and beautiful with interesting developments. Above all, they are very long-lasting for natural scents, lasting six to twelve hours on me. It is absolutely essential to have patience and to wait for the development even with less differentiated fragrances.
At first, I smelled a somehow very familiar sour-bitter fruit scent, but I couldn't identify it. I also detected a familiar oak scent. The smell that one can still perceive in very late autumn from brown, dead oak leaves until spring, which then cover the ground under the oak bushes and trees in summer. And under which mushrooms like chanterelles can still be found on mossy cushions in summer. Where it smells like that, one might find mushrooms in summer. The astringent tannins in all parts of the oak also preserve the wilted leaves for a long time.
I smelled a familiar and sharp pyrethrum scent (a natural insecticide), which turned out to be marigold when looking at the pyramid.
"Mabon" initially smelled herb-fruity-bitter, woody, dry, mossy with a bitter herb and thus felt autumnal to me. After half an hour, I even smelled honey and a subtle floral scent.
I found the sillage quite strong and initially interesting.
Then, after hours, familiar notes from other perfumes developed for me, something like oak moss, bitter flowers, citrus.
The earthy scent of autumn disappeared, and instead, I smelled on my skin a lighter version of old-fashioned perfumes like Tosca (in a diluted version), like the Tabac scents back then, like the very familiar "Boutique." However, I find it so old-fashioned that I don't want to wear it.
As one might expect, this final old-fashioned scent remained on my skin for a very long time, ten hours, then I washed it off.
As soon as I called up the pyramid, I immediately knew which berries were responsible for the sour-bitter fruit scent in the initial phase: rowan berries, listed here as a tincture.
I remember my mother picking rowan berries in early autumn and making juice and jelly from them. Before that, she soaked the berries in cold water. And as a child, I had to try them, even though my mother had forbidden me to do so.
Oh, how hard and sour (I assume oxalic acid) those beautifully orange-red glowing berries were, and they tasted completely bitter. As a child, I thought "bitter" was very poisonous. And because my mother could get quite angry at disobedience, I spat the berries out, but the taste lingered in my mouth for a long time. I thought I didn't show it. And now I was afraid I would get very sick and die from it. But out of fear of my mother's anger, I preferred to risk dying from it.
What I obviously am not. But even though I thought my mother hadn't noticed my "snacking," I recently read in a letter from many decades ago that she had observed me and had amused herself at how I behaved afterward. I often disobeyed her orders with defiance; I received the punishment for that.
How long ago was that!
Later, I tried to make a herb-bitter jelly from rowan berries myself. Rowan berries also contain a lot of pectin and gel easily. But my family and I found them, despite the proper preparation with long soaking, boiling, and then straining the cooking water, to be inedible. The result was far too bitter and sour, but the smell was the one I had first recognized in "Mabon" but couldn't name.
Just as "Mabon" initially smelled, I liked it very much, including the sour and bitter notes with the rowan berry scent, the autumnal fragrance of moss, earth, and oak leaves harmoniously blended in. In the base, woods, perhaps also the scent of marigold, but a scent of autumn asters or chrysanthemums would have been better, which also smell floral, whose pyrethrum scent is not as harsh as that of the strict marigold. At least for me, it would have preserved that long-ago memory for a while. I could have imagined a hint of apple peel scent along with honey and flowers, but also the scent of fresh ripe, still green hazelnuts as a complementary addition. And that would have been good.
But with the usual perfume ingredients like patchouli, petitgrain, geranium, the familiar autumn scents disappeared. The sillage intensified further. Additionally, the oak leaf scent shifted to oak moss, and now "Mabon" had become like one of those old-fashioned scents that I do not appreciate at all. However, I find it impressive that one can create such a fragrance with natural ingredients in this way.