
loewenherz
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loewenherz
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22
Under Palm Trees
One might wonder a little why Guerlain categorized this perfume in its 'Parisiennes' collection, as the namesake 'Promenade des Anglais' - the 'Promenade of the English' - is located in Nice and not in Paris. The Niçois simply call it 'La Promenade' or 'La Prom'. As early as the 18th century, wealthy Englishmen began to prefer spending their damp winters on their island along the Côte d'Azur, where the climate and landscape were soothing to the soul even in January. The establishment of a fortified walkway along the shoreline - the predecessor of today's promenade - is attributed to an initiative by those expatriate Englishmen, which was thanked by naming this path after them.
Today, far from just the English come to the promenade. Especially in summer, an endless parade of open sports cars stretches from St. Tropez to the Italian border (and beyond). Among the countless legendary hotels along the Côte d'Azur, the Negresco on Nice's magnificent promenade is one of the most famous - only the Eden Roc at Cap d'Antibes is even more renowned. Old money and new money, palm trees, oysters, and in every third village Hermès - and right in the middle Charlotte Casiraghi and her haggard and bitter mother - there is always something to see and experience here, and the Promenade des Anglais is - alongside a perpetually congested road - the eternal runway of this somewhat surreal world.
Guerlain and its first (in the sense of 'leading') perfumer, the much-criticized Thierry Wasser, face the challenge with each new fragrance (which customers and shareholders expect) of creating something new that still fits well into the century-old portfolio of the world's most famous perfume house. But the 2010s are no longer the time of Jicky or Shalimar - it is the time of flirtatious fruity scents and sometimes cloying gourmands. Guerlain has ventured into the sweetness of the present - with La Petite Robe Noire, for example, or the Élixirs Charnels - which did not receive unreserved enthusiasm and attached to Monsieur Wasser a bit of a reputation that he could only create sweet scents.
La Promenade des Anglais is not 'not sweet' - no, that cannot be claimed. Yet because citrus sweet notes retain so much more lightness than, for example, berry notes can, and because fig, despite its sometimes (not here) almost intimidating sweetness, is still somewhat surprising in a perfume, La Promenade des Anglais' sweetness is indeed light-footed and lively. The iris adds a subtly restrained powderiness, yet remains understated itself - so there are no associations with makeup or lipstick here. Instead, it is a surprisingly casual and cheerful summer perfume, just right for a stroll under palm trees while at home the city sinks into the wet winter gray.
Conclusion: Guerlain in 2016 is - although and because they have Monsieur Wasser - probably still 'too big to fail'.
Today, far from just the English come to the promenade. Especially in summer, an endless parade of open sports cars stretches from St. Tropez to the Italian border (and beyond). Among the countless legendary hotels along the Côte d'Azur, the Negresco on Nice's magnificent promenade is one of the most famous - only the Eden Roc at Cap d'Antibes is even more renowned. Old money and new money, palm trees, oysters, and in every third village Hermès - and right in the middle Charlotte Casiraghi and her haggard and bitter mother - there is always something to see and experience here, and the Promenade des Anglais is - alongside a perpetually congested road - the eternal runway of this somewhat surreal world.
Guerlain and its first (in the sense of 'leading') perfumer, the much-criticized Thierry Wasser, face the challenge with each new fragrance (which customers and shareholders expect) of creating something new that still fits well into the century-old portfolio of the world's most famous perfume house. But the 2010s are no longer the time of Jicky or Shalimar - it is the time of flirtatious fruity scents and sometimes cloying gourmands. Guerlain has ventured into the sweetness of the present - with La Petite Robe Noire, for example, or the Élixirs Charnels - which did not receive unreserved enthusiasm and attached to Monsieur Wasser a bit of a reputation that he could only create sweet scents.
La Promenade des Anglais is not 'not sweet' - no, that cannot be claimed. Yet because citrus sweet notes retain so much more lightness than, for example, berry notes can, and because fig, despite its sometimes (not here) almost intimidating sweetness, is still somewhat surprising in a perfume, La Promenade des Anglais' sweetness is indeed light-footed and lively. The iris adds a subtly restrained powderiness, yet remains understated itself - so there are no associations with makeup or lipstick here. Instead, it is a surprisingly casual and cheerful summer perfume, just right for a stroll under palm trees while at home the city sinks into the wet winter gray.
Conclusion: Guerlain in 2016 is - although and because they have Monsieur Wasser - probably still 'too big to fail'.
2 Comments



Top Notes
Bergamot
Grapefruit
Yellowed Calculator
Heart Notes
Fig
Iris
Violet
Base Notes
Vanilla
Vetiver








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