AbuSafiyya
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Avant Garde....Enemy or Friend?
As Apicius already wrote, Avant Garde is a very unusual yet subtle perfume from the house of Micallef.
Upon spraying, the citrus notes immediately hit the nose, while at the same time, there is a cocoa note that I can't quite describe. Soft, not overly chocolatey, somehow fluffy but still recognizable. Slowly, the citrus notes recede into the background. I definitely smell grapefruit, but a very restrained one.
As it develops further, the cocoa becomes slightly powdery through the combination with leather; perhaps the iris, which I don't necessarily pick out directly, also plays a significant role here.
I don't usually smell tobacco like this, but the question is whether real tobacco leaves were used here? I don't know how they smell ;) The incense is quite subtly perceptible. However, it seems that they have skimped on this; in the sillage, you can't smell it at all anymore.
It could also be that the incense has a certain brightening, slightly refreshing effect here.
What makes this perfume special are these contrasts: somehow citrusy yet gourmand, and between these two dances something slightly aquatic. I've never smelled anything like this before.
One could compare this contrasting play of citrus and gourmand notes to Givenchy's “Play”; at least that's the impression I have. However, the association with the Givenchy scent only lasts until the citrus notes fade into the background.
These remain present throughout most of the fragrance's development, but only very lightly.
From this moment on, Avant Garde reminds me of a somewhat “toned down” Midnight in Paris with a very beautiful cocoa note in the foreground. The leather, the incense, the tonka bean, and the iris must create this connection within me. At least those would be the only notes that these perfumes have in common.
I simply love this scent. Thanks to Apicius, I was able to test it more extensively, and I even wore it on my wedding day. Every time I spray it, memories come flooding back.
Avant Garde is very suitable for everyday wear for me, even though it is quite unusual and contrasting. Due to its restraint, it might be too quiet for other occasions, except for intimate moments. Even though I would wish it to be a little louder, it is simply one of the masterpieces from the house of Micallef. I have tested quite a bit, but Micallef has had something special for me from the very beginning that I really liked. The more I tested it, the more I wanted to see it on my shelf :)
The longevity is relatively okay to good. It lasts at least 6 hours, and the sillage is not too strong and remains relatively close to the body.
It will certainly be one of my constant companions as soon as I can hold it in my hands. It's just like a tailored suit that you put on and feel comfortable in ;)
Upon spraying, the citrus notes immediately hit the nose, while at the same time, there is a cocoa note that I can't quite describe. Soft, not overly chocolatey, somehow fluffy but still recognizable. Slowly, the citrus notes recede into the background. I definitely smell grapefruit, but a very restrained one.
As it develops further, the cocoa becomes slightly powdery through the combination with leather; perhaps the iris, which I don't necessarily pick out directly, also plays a significant role here.
I don't usually smell tobacco like this, but the question is whether real tobacco leaves were used here? I don't know how they smell ;) The incense is quite subtly perceptible. However, it seems that they have skimped on this; in the sillage, you can't smell it at all anymore.
It could also be that the incense has a certain brightening, slightly refreshing effect here.
What makes this perfume special are these contrasts: somehow citrusy yet gourmand, and between these two dances something slightly aquatic. I've never smelled anything like this before.
One could compare this contrasting play of citrus and gourmand notes to Givenchy's “Play”; at least that's the impression I have. However, the association with the Givenchy scent only lasts until the citrus notes fade into the background.
These remain present throughout most of the fragrance's development, but only very lightly.
From this moment on, Avant Garde reminds me of a somewhat “toned down” Midnight in Paris with a very beautiful cocoa note in the foreground. The leather, the incense, the tonka bean, and the iris must create this connection within me. At least those would be the only notes that these perfumes have in common.
I simply love this scent. Thanks to Apicius, I was able to test it more extensively, and I even wore it on my wedding day. Every time I spray it, memories come flooding back.
Avant Garde is very suitable for everyday wear for me, even though it is quite unusual and contrasting. Due to its restraint, it might be too quiet for other occasions, except for intimate moments. Even though I would wish it to be a little louder, it is simply one of the masterpieces from the house of Micallef. I have tested quite a bit, but Micallef has had something special for me from the very beginning that I really liked. The more I tested it, the more I wanted to see it on my shelf :)
The longevity is relatively okay to good. It lasts at least 6 hours, and the sillage is not too strong and remains relatively close to the body.
It will certainly be one of my constant companions as soon as I can hold it in my hands. It's just like a tailored suit that you put on and feel comfortable in ;)
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Arabic Deception Art with Pleasantry! / OR: How to Disguise Oud... :)
At first spray, one might think "Yuck, what a candy water," as Excellent Men comes across as very sweet. But upon closer inspection, one discovers a certain sharpness in the top note. This sharpness has a slightly woody quality... has Al-Haramain tried to squeeze a wolf into sheep's clothing here? No, no... this wolf has become so accustomed to the sheep costume that it doesn't want to come out at all.
This wolf is called Oud :)
While Excellent Men starts off very sweet, it quickly becomes powdery after a few seconds, and more and more the (albeit subtly dosed) Oud seems to "steam through." The sweetness develops alongside the Oud into an almost sour note; I have never smelled anything like this before. The more this fragrance surprises me and draws me into its paradox, the more I like it.
The sweet, indefinable note with which this fragrance starts is slowly beginning to gain character. I smell rose, but a very sweet, almost caramelized rose. I even think I can detect amber. My nose may be deceiving me, but I notice traces of a peach-like accord here.
This peach does not come across as cheap in any way! So it's not a throwaway peach at the end of the season, but rather very zesty and fresh.
Up to this point, it is such a contradictory fragrance; on one side sweet, powdery, very soft, rosy, yes, I would even say feminine. On the other side (especially the scent trail, without smelling directly on the arm), it is woody, slightly sharp, masculine.
Until the base, not much changes; the sweetness gradually fades, and the amber provides a kind of clarity, almost like a sea breeze.
I must say that Excellent Men is indeed a crowd-pleaser.
The Oud is nicely packaged, making it agreeable for everyone.
Although it is officially classified as a masculine fragrance, I would easily place it in the unisex category without any guilt.
I previously only knew Oud fragrances where the Oud is almost always in the foreground.
Here, however, one has essentially the opposite without the Oud losing its share and presence.
Unfortunately, I could not find an official fragrance pyramid, and if the perfumer reads my comment about his perfume, he will surely be laughing to himself. ;)
It's a pity, but this is unfortunately the case with almost all Arabic perfumes.
In general, Excellent Men attempts to unite Western and Eastern perfumery, and does so with a high degree of pleasantry. The same was observed by Apicius with "Maze," also from Al-Haramain.
The longevity is in the middle range; I would say around 6 hours.
The sillage is normal to good. I also find that the sillage really defines this fragrance, as it comes across so much better.
With 90%, I give Excellent Men what it deserves. It is an excellent everyday fragrance that works almost all the time. Both in summer (lightly dosed) and in winter, although it may seem to fade a bit in winter.
I feel so strangely comfortable with this fragrance that I could wear it for 24 hours.
This wolf is called Oud :)
While Excellent Men starts off very sweet, it quickly becomes powdery after a few seconds, and more and more the (albeit subtly dosed) Oud seems to "steam through." The sweetness develops alongside the Oud into an almost sour note; I have never smelled anything like this before. The more this fragrance surprises me and draws me into its paradox, the more I like it.
The sweet, indefinable note with which this fragrance starts is slowly beginning to gain character. I smell rose, but a very sweet, almost caramelized rose. I even think I can detect amber. My nose may be deceiving me, but I notice traces of a peach-like accord here.
This peach does not come across as cheap in any way! So it's not a throwaway peach at the end of the season, but rather very zesty and fresh.
Up to this point, it is such a contradictory fragrance; on one side sweet, powdery, very soft, rosy, yes, I would even say feminine. On the other side (especially the scent trail, without smelling directly on the arm), it is woody, slightly sharp, masculine.
Until the base, not much changes; the sweetness gradually fades, and the amber provides a kind of clarity, almost like a sea breeze.
I must say that Excellent Men is indeed a crowd-pleaser.
The Oud is nicely packaged, making it agreeable for everyone.
Although it is officially classified as a masculine fragrance, I would easily place it in the unisex category without any guilt.
I previously only knew Oud fragrances where the Oud is almost always in the foreground.
Here, however, one has essentially the opposite without the Oud losing its share and presence.
Unfortunately, I could not find an official fragrance pyramid, and if the perfumer reads my comment about his perfume, he will surely be laughing to himself. ;)
It's a pity, but this is unfortunately the case with almost all Arabic perfumes.
In general, Excellent Men attempts to unite Western and Eastern perfumery, and does so with a high degree of pleasantry. The same was observed by Apicius with "Maze," also from Al-Haramain.
The longevity is in the middle range; I would say around 6 hours.
The sillage is normal to good. I also find that the sillage really defines this fragrance, as it comes across so much better.
With 90%, I give Excellent Men what it deserves. It is an excellent everyday fragrance that works almost all the time. Both in summer (lightly dosed) and in winter, although it may seem to fade a bit in winter.
I feel so strangely comfortable with this fragrance that I could wear it for 24 hours.
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It must have been 1001 hard nights.... ;-)
Unlike what one might expect from the name, 1001 Nights starts off quite "rough" without any romantic, warm character.
At first, a very "oud-like" note hits my nose, with its medicinal, slightly musty composition taking up 90% of the scent perception, and when I smell close to my wrist, it almost reminds me of paint/glue (does anyone know Wick Vaporup? (: ), that's probably the oud combined with the (10%) (very dark) flowers and spices.
And piece by piece, sweeter notes start to come into play! And just when this happens, the light smoky note in connection with the spices comes to the forefront! And in the background, the flowers gently fade, a very harmonious combination in my opinion!
Unfortunately, it is quite off-putting due to the strong, medicinal, and simultaneously animalistic note, and I'm sure some will hate it from the first moment, but I don't care at all :)
I treat this scent just like I treat oud...namely, a half-hour of complete isolation from the environment before I go out :D
Only then does this scent (like with pure oud) truly come into its own.
After a good hour, the scent has developed to a point where it no longer changes and only gets weaker. It is slightly sweet from the flowers (I suspect a dark rose?) but at the same time woody and spicy (I can't pick out much since my nose is still relatively untrained when it comes to "raw materials," and unfortunately, there's no real fragrance pyramid to be found for this, but I think I can detect saffron in the background?). This combination is surrounded by a very smoky aroma, which makes this perfume feel a bit rounder.
I like 1001 Nights by Ajmal...however, it is quite a challenge for me to describe it, so I lack the words. It may not be a perfume that I would wear every day, but it is definitely of high quality, you can tell!
In summary, one can say that this perfume by Ajmal is indeed a fragrance experience, as it evolves from strongly medicinal to sweet-spicy-warm, a very wonderful perfume!
Converted to around €80~ this scent (the oil version) is available from England, and in my opinion, it is worth every cent, even if you might not get to wear it often. I would definitely not recommend a blind purchase of 1001 Nights, as it is certainly not to everyone's taste.
There isn't much to say about longevity, as this scent easily lasts 8 hours on my skin. Just to add: The scent lasts easily for 8 hours as mentioned, but even after over 12 hours, I can still faintly perceive it on my arm.
I give it 70% (but leaning more towards 80%), it's a very special combination in my opinion, it really reminds me of the Orient, and I would advise everyone to test it if the opportunity arises!
It is listed here as unisex, but I wouldn't necessarily classify it as unisex, although it does take on some character traits later on that are only loosely unisex.
Well, in the end, everyone has to decide for themselves what they wear, but 1001 Nights by Ajmal is even more masculine than some men's perfumes.....
At first, a very "oud-like" note hits my nose, with its medicinal, slightly musty composition taking up 90% of the scent perception, and when I smell close to my wrist, it almost reminds me of paint/glue (does anyone know Wick Vaporup? (: ), that's probably the oud combined with the (10%) (very dark) flowers and spices.
And piece by piece, sweeter notes start to come into play! And just when this happens, the light smoky note in connection with the spices comes to the forefront! And in the background, the flowers gently fade, a very harmonious combination in my opinion!
Unfortunately, it is quite off-putting due to the strong, medicinal, and simultaneously animalistic note, and I'm sure some will hate it from the first moment, but I don't care at all :)
I treat this scent just like I treat oud...namely, a half-hour of complete isolation from the environment before I go out :D
Only then does this scent (like with pure oud) truly come into its own.
After a good hour, the scent has developed to a point where it no longer changes and only gets weaker. It is slightly sweet from the flowers (I suspect a dark rose?) but at the same time woody and spicy (I can't pick out much since my nose is still relatively untrained when it comes to "raw materials," and unfortunately, there's no real fragrance pyramid to be found for this, but I think I can detect saffron in the background?). This combination is surrounded by a very smoky aroma, which makes this perfume feel a bit rounder.
I like 1001 Nights by Ajmal...however, it is quite a challenge for me to describe it, so I lack the words. It may not be a perfume that I would wear every day, but it is definitely of high quality, you can tell!
In summary, one can say that this perfume by Ajmal is indeed a fragrance experience, as it evolves from strongly medicinal to sweet-spicy-warm, a very wonderful perfume!
Converted to around €80~ this scent (the oil version) is available from England, and in my opinion, it is worth every cent, even if you might not get to wear it often. I would definitely not recommend a blind purchase of 1001 Nights, as it is certainly not to everyone's taste.
There isn't much to say about longevity, as this scent easily lasts 8 hours on my skin. Just to add: The scent lasts easily for 8 hours as mentioned, but even after over 12 hours, I can still faintly perceive it on my arm.
I give it 70% (but leaning more towards 80%), it's a very special combination in my opinion, it really reminds me of the Orient, and I would advise everyone to test it if the opportunity arises!
It is listed here as unisex, but I wouldn't necessarily classify it as unisex, although it does take on some character traits later on that are only loosely unisex.
Well, in the end, everyone has to decide for themselves what they wear, but 1001 Nights by Ajmal is even more masculine than some men's perfumes.....
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Translated · Show original
Arabian Nights......or Fresh Days?
As can be seen from the fragrance composition, this scent is not dark at all! Nevertheless, the name is fitting, as the top note is very fresh, and the jasmine and musk from the heart note are immediately "embraced" by the mandarin and citronella (more of a light lemongrass).
And when the top note slowly fades (but lasts extremely long!), the cocoa butter comes into play! This makes the scent very sensual and elegant, and one perceives a very pleasant, soft creaminess! And it is precisely this note that brings the association to the "night"!
I find that the scent reminds me of a bathhouse on a cold, Arabian night, illuminated by small candles scattered everywhere, and as soon as you enter the bathing room, the finest flowers adorn the steaming water... jasmine and a hint of clove! Musk gives this fragrance a certain soapiness, which fits perfectly with the scenario described above!
I discovered this fragrance at the Arabian Oud Store in London while I was looking for a scent as a gift.....and, what can I say? I liked the scent from the very first minute, so elegant! But not too elegant, thanks to the complementary yet light freshness from the mandarin and citronella!
The salesperson then introduced me to other products, but I couldn't let go of this scent after I had tried it on myself!
In my opinion, this fragrance can be worn by young women from 18 upwards as well as by the older generation. It is not too oriental, as it is more of a very harmonious fusion of Western and Arabian perfumery!
I don't have many points of comparison regarding women's perfumes, so I cannot draw a comparison with Western women's fragrances!
However, this scent completely convinced me and stands out from the crowd with its elegance and simultaneously light freshness, especially since it is not too sweet!
Even though my wallet was £35 lighter for 3ml of this perfume, it is worth every penny! As for the dosage, I can only say that a very small amount of oil per application is sufficient, as it is already very highly concentrated!
By the way, Arabian Oud has very nice gift packaging :) a small faux leather box wrapped with a white ribbon, which is included for free with every purchase of "loose perfume oil"! (meaning: the oils that are filled from the large glass decanters in either 3, 6, or 12ml.)
Here’s a picture:
http://img151.imageshack.us/i/imgp2506l.jpg/
I give Arabian Oud 100%, further words are unnecessary! ;)
A must-try for anyone who has the opportunity! ABSOLUTELY!
Just a small addendum:
I was able to test Lady Million, and to be honest, the top note is very similar, not quite as sticky fruity, more of the lemony aspect from the top note of Lady Million, but it does have a certain resemblance.
And when the top note slowly fades (but lasts extremely long!), the cocoa butter comes into play! This makes the scent very sensual and elegant, and one perceives a very pleasant, soft creaminess! And it is precisely this note that brings the association to the "night"!
I find that the scent reminds me of a bathhouse on a cold, Arabian night, illuminated by small candles scattered everywhere, and as soon as you enter the bathing room, the finest flowers adorn the steaming water... jasmine and a hint of clove! Musk gives this fragrance a certain soapiness, which fits perfectly with the scenario described above!
I discovered this fragrance at the Arabian Oud Store in London while I was looking for a scent as a gift.....and, what can I say? I liked the scent from the very first minute, so elegant! But not too elegant, thanks to the complementary yet light freshness from the mandarin and citronella!
The salesperson then introduced me to other products, but I couldn't let go of this scent after I had tried it on myself!
In my opinion, this fragrance can be worn by young women from 18 upwards as well as by the older generation. It is not too oriental, as it is more of a very harmonious fusion of Western and Arabian perfumery!
I don't have many points of comparison regarding women's perfumes, so I cannot draw a comparison with Western women's fragrances!
However, this scent completely convinced me and stands out from the crowd with its elegance and simultaneously light freshness, especially since it is not too sweet!
Even though my wallet was £35 lighter for 3ml of this perfume, it is worth every penny! As for the dosage, I can only say that a very small amount of oil per application is sufficient, as it is already very highly concentrated!
By the way, Arabian Oud has very nice gift packaging :) a small faux leather box wrapped with a white ribbon, which is included for free with every purchase of "loose perfume oil"! (meaning: the oils that are filled from the large glass decanters in either 3, 6, or 12ml.)
Here’s a picture:
http://img151.imageshack.us/i/imgp2506l.jpg/
I give Arabian Oud 100%, further words are unnecessary! ;)
A must-try for anyone who has the opportunity! ABSOLUTELY!
Just a small addendum:
I was able to test Lady Million, and to be honest, the top note is very similar, not quite as sticky fruity, more of the lemony aspect from the top note of Lady Million, but it does have a certain resemblance.
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Not just clean, but pure! :-)
What more can I say about this great white musk?
So much soap and soooo much beautiful soap at once ;)
This white musk from ASAQ is advertised as a purely plant-based musk according to zahras.com, and that's probably the reason for the price.... 3ml is available for just under €20.
When I smell it, it reminds me a lot of laundry detergent... of fabric softener, and there’s also a slightly sour, chlorinated note that stands out. Additionally, I think I can perceive a slightly metallic note in the background, a complete, soapy white musk indeed.... I love it :)
I have no comparison to well-known white musks like those from The Body Shop, so I can't say much about that aspect. Nevertheless, the Body Musk or Misku-l Jism from ASAQ will certainly be of a higher quality than that from The Body Shop.
The consistency of the fragrance is also very interesting; it’s almost a milky lump in the bottle, very firm and a bit sticky.
I find it hard to use further words for this scent, as it is quite a simple fragrance (just white musk) and describing it is a matter of individual perception.
I can imagine wearing it on anyone and for any occasion, whether at work (in the office), in the evening, or in my free time; it’s just a very universal scent! Definitely unisex without leaning towards the feminine or masculine side!
Even though the price of around €80/12ml is a bit high, you get high-quality, pure musk oil for it, which is definitely worth every cent.
I give ASAQ 100% for this! Even though the longevity (on the skin about 8~10 hours) is not as strong as its "stronger brother" (Misk Mutasalik, which has a stronger animalistic note and is therefore also more noticeable for longer), the Body Musk is such a beautiful feel-good scent that I also like to use for sleeping ;)
Unfortunately, my 3ml bottle is slowly running out... need.... new... STUFF! :)
Anyone who likes white musk and wants to test this one should be prepared for some "budget breaks" in their account, as this scent is addictive and wears off quickly since you can't get enough of it :)
If someone really wants to test this Body Musk from ASAQ, they can go to the supermarket and find a shower cream from Palmolive: "Koko&Moisture Milk." When my sister brought this home, I thought: Wow, she found my favorite musk as a shower gel, and I just used it without asking... I didn't get in trouble for that ;)
It’s 99% the same scent; you just have to imagine the Body Musk in a higher concentration ;)
So much soap and soooo much beautiful soap at once ;)
This white musk from ASAQ is advertised as a purely plant-based musk according to zahras.com, and that's probably the reason for the price.... 3ml is available for just under €20.
When I smell it, it reminds me a lot of laundry detergent... of fabric softener, and there’s also a slightly sour, chlorinated note that stands out. Additionally, I think I can perceive a slightly metallic note in the background, a complete, soapy white musk indeed.... I love it :)
I have no comparison to well-known white musks like those from The Body Shop, so I can't say much about that aspect. Nevertheless, the Body Musk or Misku-l Jism from ASAQ will certainly be of a higher quality than that from The Body Shop.
The consistency of the fragrance is also very interesting; it’s almost a milky lump in the bottle, very firm and a bit sticky.
I find it hard to use further words for this scent, as it is quite a simple fragrance (just white musk) and describing it is a matter of individual perception.
I can imagine wearing it on anyone and for any occasion, whether at work (in the office), in the evening, or in my free time; it’s just a very universal scent! Definitely unisex without leaning towards the feminine or masculine side!
Even though the price of around €80/12ml is a bit high, you get high-quality, pure musk oil for it, which is definitely worth every cent.
I give ASAQ 100% for this! Even though the longevity (on the skin about 8~10 hours) is not as strong as its "stronger brother" (Misk Mutasalik, which has a stronger animalistic note and is therefore also more noticeable for longer), the Body Musk is such a beautiful feel-good scent that I also like to use for sleeping ;)
Unfortunately, my 3ml bottle is slowly running out... need.... new... STUFF! :)
Anyone who likes white musk and wants to test this one should be prepared for some "budget breaks" in their account, as this scent is addictive and wears off quickly since you can't get enough of it :)
If someone really wants to test this Body Musk from ASAQ, they can go to the supermarket and find a shower cream from Palmolive: "Koko&Moisture Milk." When my sister brought this home, I thought: Wow, she found my favorite musk as a shower gel, and I just used it without asking... I didn't get in trouble for that ;)
It’s 99% the same scent; you just have to imagine the Body Musk in a higher concentration ;)
1 Comment
