Autunno

Autunno

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Autunno 12 years ago 6
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Veni, Vidi, Vendere
Once again, a blind buy that went wrong. Based on the comments and Luca Turin's praise, I wanted to get something nice for everyday wear, and since I generally like Estée Lauder fragrances, I thought I would enjoy this one.

The opening is repulsive and indefinable. I thought Hermi had handed me a turned fragrance (sorry Hermi!). Aldehydic-bitter, cinnamon-like, tuberose-like, and indecisive.
At some point, the promised rose breaks through, and the fragrance becomes relatively pleasant, but still too unremarkable and agreeable for my taste. The base is typical for Lauder and somewhat reminiscent of Azurée. Vetiver adds a bit more character to the fragrance.
For once, I will refrain from giving a rating...
6 Comments
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More brutal than the police allow ...
... or is it a criminal genius?

At first glance, everything seems wrong here, because what hits me after application is so repulsive that I can hardly bear to keep the "fragrance" on my wrist any longer, but to test it thoroughly, I have to endure it, and I resolve to hold on.

Nothing seems to have been modified here. The hyacinth smells like it does in summer when it blooms: carrion-sweet. The jasmine has an indolic scent. It also evokes associations with summer when passing by corners that are often used by dogs as marking points. It is often difficult to distinguish whether it is due to that or the blooming, honey-sweet bushes.
As if that weren't enough, a medicinal-menthol note runs through the fragrance beyond the top notes, which triggers a slight gag reflex in me.

While unpleasant aspects are usually not noticeable or only slightly so in tuberose perfumes, they seem to be intentional here, even emphasized.

No, this is certainly not flattering.
It reminds me of rheumatism ointment with a bit of something pleasant in it while brushing my teeth. It’s nice that it develops a bit more pleasantly, but the tuberose remains stubborn.

Interesting perhaps, but not wearable for me.
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Aeolus ...
... would probably be the more fitting name :-)
I don't know any perfume with a stronger sillage!

After reading all the comments here and getting a rough idea based on the listed notes, I immediately "recognized" it when I smelled it on a woman on my way to work. I knew it was him.

The vervain and patchouli are absolutely dominant here, and that remains the case until the end. If one can even talk about an end, as it lasts until you shower.
The notes all subordinate themselves to the vervain and patchouli, but are well perceivable - except for jasmine and tuberose - and make the scent a bit softer, especially rose, orange blossom, and ylang-ylang.

This perfume is absolutely unmistakable, earthy, and at the same time fresh, but I don't know if I have the courage to wear it, as I got the perfume spray and one spritz is actually already too much.

In my opinion, it is unisex and more suitable for older people.
2 Comments
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It's really not that bad :-)
Well, then I will be the one to give the balancing comment on this not-so-bad fragrance :-)

I must admit, I'm not a big fan of neroli either, but I perceive it more as salty rather than bitter. Aside from that, the fragrance notes that don't last at least until the middle of the heart note could easily be omitted.

As Sabi already mentioned, the neroli here is quite persistent and lasts - I agree - a good 2 hours. After that, I only smell a creamy-sweet note (Tiaré) and a hint of gardenia, but for a long time, as the longevity is quite decent and it's also well perceivable in the surroundings. Unfortunately, there's no trace of freesia and mandarin. They could have softened the neroli a bit.

Even though the fragrance doesn't fit my preferences, because it lacks the dark, gloomy, or edgy qualities in my opinion, and I personally prefer "harder stuff" even in summer, it is still quite solidly made and you definitely won't stand out negatively with it.
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The Old Explosive!
During the first test, the top note shocked me so much that I couldn't muster the patience to wait until the end. Because ... the scent starts with an extremely bitter absinthe note and a hint of licorice.

Gradually, the old, original Explosive crystallizes more and more, and coriander, geranium, rose, amber, moss, patchouli, and vetiver become increasingly noticeable.
The bitterness recedes after a while, and Feu de Nuit reveals itself as a dark, mysterious rose perfume that can also be worn well by men (for the specifiers).

After that, I immediately removed it from the souk.
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