BigB

BigB

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Of Ideal Men and the House of Guerlain
L'Homme Idéal. The fragrance for the "ideal" man, then. But how is "ideal" defined, or doesn't everyone have a different idea of what "ideal" is? Can a fragrance fit all notions of "ideal," the "ideal" universal tool, then? According to Guerlain, the ideal man of today is enveloped in a sweet-rosy scent cloud. Masculine? No. But still very wearable if you like this type of fragrance direction.

In my opinion, L'Homme Idéal EdP is the best fragrance in the entire line. Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk have (I think) consciously designed a line that is quite "mainstream-oriented," yet can still exhibit an independent character (the almond note, which runs like a red thread through the fragrance line, is an example).

For many people who engage intensively with fragrances and are also part of our community, the L'Homme Idéal line is often labeled as "inappropriate" for Guerlain. Too "generic," too "boring," too "marketing-driven." I can understand the criticism here. All fragrances in this line are perceived as "less complex" by more experienced noses compared to the big names from Guerlain (Habit Rouge, Shalimar, Spiritueuse Double Vanille, etc…). This is true, but why shouldn't one also create a fragrance line to make Guerlain accessible to a younger and less "fragrance-savvy" audience?

After the first press of the spray button (which, in my opinion, is very good and releases a uniform and proper scent load), one perceives a warm and very pleasant sweetness, without any of the used components pushing themselves to the forefront. L'Homme Idéal EdP is a gentle fragrance that never feels "overwhelming," but rather envelops the wearer in a beautiful aura, which is especially well-perceived during the first two hours and within a larger radius. After some time, a cherry note becomes more pronounced, even though cherry is not mentioned in the fragrance pyramid. For me, the EdP is a fragrance that is very well perceivable throughout its entire scent progression, even as it becomes closer to the skin. The longevity is absolutely fine for an EdP, and so far I have only received positive feedback, both from men and women. If L'Homme Idéal EdP were declared a unisex fragrance, it would be completely understandable, as I can also imagine it well on women (which would, however, need to be reflected in a name change).

In my opinion, the fragrance is wearable in all seasons, but in summer, it is better suited for cooler and rainy days, as I think it could otherwise drift into a somewhat overpowering sweetness.

Guerlain has succeeded in creating a fragrance for the mainstream market that is completely independent and stands out significantly from the currently offered designer fragrance segment and can truly exhibit niche-level quality. I can say that I would gladly have paid more for this fragrance and definitely would not have regretted it.

My conclusion: An independent fragrance that, in my opinion, stands out very positively from the current "mainstream fragrance assortment" and is suitable for many occasions. While I find it a bit unfortunate that Guerlain currently wants to "exploit" the L'Homme Idéal line and is bringing flankers to market at increasingly shorter intervals, one cannot view it as too "reprehensible" in today's time when companies and fragrance houses try to exploit all possible avenues for new revenues. Guerlain doesn't need to prove anything to anyone anymore, as they have already released numerous iconic fragrances in the past. In times when craftsmanship was still prioritized over profit margins and so on.
So: Well done, Guerlain. I really enjoy wearing L'Homme Idéal EdP and can highly recommend it from my side.
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Setting Aside Prejudices
Everyone knows him. Cristiano Ronaldo, CR7. Footballer, advertising face, a brand of our time. For many, he is the slick and arrogant type with the artificially grinning smile, who shares impressions of his "perfect" life on social media every day and also plays football on the side.

I must admit that I am truly not a fan of Ronaldo, and the points mentioned above reflect my thoughts about him. Among the large portfolio of products that Cristiano Ronaldo markets under his name, there have also been fragrances for some time now. Many might think, "What Beckham can do, I can do too." Big corporations hire them to launch one (typical "drugstore scent") after another, label them with their name, and the money starts rolling in. Was that Ronaldo's thought as well? I think not. In my opinion, Ronaldo did not bring his fragrances to market to rake in money (he already makes enough with advertising revenue, other products, and not least as a footballer), but I believe he wanted to be taken seriously in the fragrance market. If you watch the video on his homepage about the creation of this scent, you see Ronaldo and employees from fragrance houses smelling individual components of scents that could be selected to make the product "perfect." Whether that really happened as described, I doubt, but I do think that Ronaldo placed a lot of value on the selection and the outcome.

So why am I writing a comment about this fragrance? Because I believe it deserves it! Here in Germany, people know (if at all) the "normal" Legacy, which I would categorize as slightly above the average drugstore scent. Legacy Private Edition is a flanker to this, but for me, it is completely independent.

First of all, it's worth mentioning that Legacy Private Edition is an EdP, which is definitely noticeable. When you spray the fragrance fresh on, a sweet-woody note rises to your nose that I have never smelled before. Maple syrup is mentioned in the top note, and I find that this is the most noticeable note throughout the entire fragrance journey. I thought long about which fragrance Legacy Private Edition reminds me of, and I must say that absolutely no comparable scent comes to mind. The fragrance has a wonderful scent progression, and you can clearly recognize the transitions from top to heart to base notes.

Even though tonka bean and vanilla can be detected in the fragrance, it does not have the "standard sweetness" often encountered today, but rather a warm and fine sweetness that arises from the combination of these two fragrance materials along with the mentioned maple syrup and a hint of basil (here, if at all, there is a very slight and truly minimal similarity to "The One EdP").

The fragrance radiates very well from the skin during the first two hours and is noticeably present, even if you are not standing directly in front of someone. Later, it becomes a bit closer to the skin, but does not disappear completely. After about 6 hours, it becomes a bit "quieter," before Legacy Private Edition becomes skin-close after about 8 hours. I have worn the fragrance for some time now, and you will definitely be noticed by those around you; I have already received inquiries about what smells so good. The bottle itself is very beautiful and well-made, featuring a magnetic closure and a blue-gold color scheme, which I think fits well and skillfully underscores the fragrance concept.

For me, Legacy Private Edition is a fragrance that can be worn well throughout the entire year, although I would indicate colder days and months as the best time, as I can imagine it might become a bit too sweet and "muggy" in (very) warm weather (which I have not been able to test yet). To my nose, the fragrance is absolutely not a "teen" scent and can be worn well from the age of 20 and up, as it smells more "adult" than playful.

Although I did not buy this fragrance blindly, as I first tested it this year in Gran Canaria and then purchased it, I believe one can risk a blind buy, as it is relatively inexpensive (online) and you will definitely not experience a disappointment.

In summary, I can say that Legacy Private Edition is a really beautiful fragrance that is well-crafted and far removed from the drugstore scent standard. Anyone who has the opportunity to test this fragrance should definitely do so.

An independent fragrance with good longevity and sillage, which is affordably priced and absolutely unknown here. What more could you want? Respect to Cristiano Ronaldo, who really wanted to prove with this fragrance that he can create a scent that can also satisfy "more experienced" noses. And he has absolutely succeeded!

P.S. I still am not a fan of Ronaldo. ;-)
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The Masterpiece of Signore Ferragamo
Yes, it does happen sometimes. The moment when a fragrance hits you so (positively) hard on the first sniff that you can't really "process" and absorb the sensory impressions and scent notes.

"Uomo" is such a fragrance for me. I can't remember the last time I was so overwhelmed and surprised by a scent. I knew that it includes a tiramisu note (as this is supposed to be the "special note" with which this fragrance was explicitly marketed). However, I didn't expect too much, as one is often disappointed with rather "exotically" used fragrance ingredients.

Mr. Ferragamo managed to create an incredibly balanced and masterfully beautiful scent that (in my opinion) quite well reflects the Italian life philosophy ("la dolce vita"). What really distinguishes the fragrance is its uniqueness, as even after much consideration, I can't think of a direct or even remotely "close" fragrance twin. Of course, this scent has a coffee note, but it is much better integrated and woven together with the individual components than, for example, in "Rochas Man" or the well-known (damned or adored) "A*Men".

After the first press of the spray button (which I think is very good and releases a uniform and proper scent load), one perceives a warm and very beautiful sweetness, without any of the used components pushing themselves to the forefront. After a while, the tiramisu aroma becomes more and more pronounced and is clearly noticeable (however, it wouldn't have reminded me directly of tiramisu if I hadn't known beforehand that it was supposed to be the Italian dessert. Rather, it reminds me of a sweet coffee pastry).

The gourmand sweetness runs through the entire fragrance progression, but without being overwhelming or piercing. You can also smell the orange blossom, and the tiramisu aroma "dampens" the tonka bean a bit, so the scent is not overpowering, but has a constant and (I think) consciously "reserved" sweetness that is still well perceivable.

In my opinion, the fragrance is wearable in all seasons, but in summer, it is better suited for cooler and rainy days, as I think it could otherwise drift into a too overwhelming sweet direction (this still needs to be tested).

Even though this fragrance is suitable for almost all age groups (from about 20 years and up) and for almost all situations, I really hope that it is not discovered by the disco/teenager faction, for whom "pantydropping" is the only true reason for a fragrance, as they would not appreciate this unique scent creation, into which a lot of work and thought has been invested (which is also very clearly noticeable).

Salvatore Ferragamo has succeeded in creating a fragrance for the mainstream market that is completely unique and stands out significantly from the currently offered designer fragrance segment and can truly exhibit niche-level quality. I can say that I would have gladly paid more for this fragrance and would definitely not have regretted it.

Bottle:
Heavy, grippy, and very beautifully designed. The spray button is, as already mentioned, very well done.

Longevity:
"Uomo" is still very well perceivable and present after 7-8 hours. Top!

Sillage:
For the first two hours, the wearer is enveloped in a distinct and well-perceivable scent cloud, without being negatively noticeable or the scent being intrusive. Ideal!

My personal conclusion: With "Uomo," Mr. Ferragamo has created a masterpiece that, in 2016, is personally unmatched in creativity and uniqueness in the designer fragrance sector for me. Of course, the last year has also produced some very good designer fragrances (Valentino's "Uomo Intense," for example, which I really like and highly appreciate), but Salvatore's "Uomo" is, by far, the best release in the designer sector of 2016.

Congratulazione signore Ferragamo!

P.S. This is my first comment in this community, I hope you like it. :)
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