Candila

Candila

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Candila 5 years ago 9 4
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
7
Scent
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What the witch brews in the deep forest...
Lichens growing on tree trunks are a good indicator of whether the air in a forest area is clean and still relatively unpolluted, as lichens are the first plants to die from air pollution.
I also smell a primeval forest still untouched and unpolluted by civilization: ultra fresh, cool and almost cutting clean air and very strong, spicy green in infinite green shades.

My scent picture shows me a very old and rather dark forest, it is also a bit scary, and if I am honest, then it is also not quite likeable to me. The harsh and dark green proliferates "wildly" through the composition, seems impenetrable, presses me a little, even makes me a little claustrophobic.
But there are also lighter and fresher shades of green, which are pungent and spicy, sometimes almost minty, explosive and invigorating.

Actually that would be a nice spicy Fougere-fragrance, if there wasn't someone walking through the forest at my side, who suffers from bad breath. ;-)
Hard to describe. The scent projection is fresh, spicy and woody in all possible shades of green, I would even say I smell natural green, softened neither by sweet nor by soft accompanying notes, but bitter and racy green, as if I had just uprooted a tuft of grassy plants, torn leaves of dark deciduous trees and scratched a few grayish lichens from tree bark and would smell at this heap "wilderness".
For me very authentic smelling of deep, dark, untouched forest.
But the closer my nose gets to the skin, the more noticeable this strange "bad breath note" becomes. I would even go so far as to describe this impression as a faint hint of decay passing by from a distance.

So no fragrance for me, but at least an impressive fragrance picture in the whole. And the idea of an ethnic scent, here dedicated to the Maori, has also been retained at Gri Gri.
There is again much contained, which I know only over Google. Manuka tree from New Zealand, which belongs to the tea tree species (I suspect this ingredient to be responsible for the "bad breath note"). I don't like the smell of tea tree oil. But I don't know if the Manuka Oil smells that similar). Kunzea tree from the myrtle family, New Zealand cord tree buds, which are supposed to smell similar to the laburnum in our country.
I've listed my Google results here, because maybe someone else can associate more with these plants or their aromas than me.
4 Comments
Candila 5 years ago 9 2
4
Sillage
5
Longevity
9
Scent
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Iris Sheep Clouds
"Peccato" is just the kind of scent that could get me to buy. Unfortunately subjunctive, because the shelf life and Sillage I find disappointing.

I smell a warm, but only moderately sweet iris scent with a hint of violet, at first not even very powdery, more a mix of a very restrained lipstick note and a bit more woody, white powderiness.
The citric notes, such as bergamot and neroli, seem to contribute to the special fragrance, making the iris-violet mix very fresh, sunny, airy and bright.
I see white iris sheep clouds in front of me and feel the lightheartedness of a warm, but not hot, sunny summer day I spend outside in the open

That would be a great summer scent to my taste. A slightly floral, clean, moderately warm, but unfortunately only breathy powder scent with this friendly, mild citrus freshness that keeps the powder alive and makes it resemble Guerlain's "Liu" in the early phases

Unfortunately, the fragrance only gives me a brief pleasure. It remains on the skin for about 3-4 hours, but after half an hour at the latest it seems to have disappeared.
It's not, sometimes I get a faint whiff of it in my nose, but it shows up so extremely close and quiet that I can only sniff it out with extreme effort and concentration.
After 1-2 hours only a hint of slightly woody iris powder remains, more comparable to the hint of scent that remains on the skin for a short time after showering with an iris shower gel
Spicy elements, like the cardamom or the patchouli, I don't notice at all.

Conclusion: I love the fragrance; I can recommend it to everyone who is looking for a quiet and very close fragrance companion and likes powdery fragrances.
2 Comments
Candila 5 years ago 4 1
7
Sillage
9
Longevity
7.5
Scent
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Aeration after white bloomer detonation
I start with strong orange blossoms with their slightly bitter sweetness, quickly followed by an equally strong mix of jasmine, tuberose and gardenia.
For 2-3 hours, "Scandal" shows up on me as a real flower bomb. Very white creamy and flowery-sweet, but unfortunately also pompous, as both the slightly perceptible Indolic accents resonate and the flower cream as a whole becomes very, very warm, which for me pushes the entire fragrance to the limit of too warm or sultry.
To my chagrin, some perfumers often seem to equate femininity with the scent of Indolian white flowers; i have noticed this not only with the Supreme fragrances from YSL like "Supreme Bouquet", but also with some other perfumes called ultra feminine, and so with this fragrance too, which is 90% pleasantly floral, but above all very feminine due to tuberose, but still this unclean note is conveyed, which makes me think of unventilated boudoirs or overpainted ladies in bulky fur coats (although this scent is not nearly as indolent as the "Supreme Bouquet" here).

After approx. 2 hours it gets better; it is properly aired! If the sultry phase is over, fresher floral notes in the form of freesia, a clean rose and fresh lily of the valley appear. With their help, the slightly too warm flower scent turns into a gentle-flowery and lovely companion with a sweet but clean tuberose, warm jasmine, a spicy freesia and a fresh and clean-scented rose (which I only perceive as a slight rounding).
Clear lavender and clean musk may act as additional "aerators", while velvety sandalwood and powdery, slightly woody iris provide a very welcome, airy powderiness, which lies over the creamy floral notes and soothes the dense fragrance.

Conclusion: From a loud opening in the form of an extremely densely woven wreath of tuberose, gardenia and jasmine to a somewhat too opulent, overheated and "madam-like" white flower herb fragrance to a gentle, clean and, in my opinion, elegant feminine flower fragrance, which in the second half of the drydown still offers a lush bouquet of flowers, but which then appears more colourful, more varied and at the same time more airy and less oppressive.
"I find "Jardins de Bagatelle" by Guerlain to be similarly heavy and densely creamy, but the Guerlain is more pleasant for me right from the start, as it is not indolent, altogether fresher and air-flooded, although it is not exactly a lightweight, and easier to wear
1 Comment
Candila 5 years ago 21 8
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
10
Scent
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Multifaceted cream blossom fragrance
Sleeping flowers, this picture goes through the head with every spray.
"Essence Rare" starts so calmly worn, expresses such a deep silence and tranquility that I almost want to switch to meditation mode myself.
In the beginning, a very delicate, mildly "chalky" iris powder was sprinkled over fresh and at the beginning only moderately sweet flowers. Not the powder impression I normally smell in powder scents, no sweet sweetness and nothing lively "powdery", but a dry, powdery white layer over still resting flower heads.
Nevertheless, nothing seems tired or bland here; under the layer of powder you can feel the life and energy of the flowers, waiting only for the sunrise to rise and blossom in all colours.

And this also happens within the first hour. Lily of the valley, rose and jasmine bloom harmoniously side by side and spread their bewitching scent. A mild citric breeze of fresh, partly ripe and juicy, partly still green, aromatic mandarins occasionally draws weakly through the composition and keeps the warm flowers fresh.
With increasing wearing time, the iris develops not only its powdery facet, but also a soft lipstick creaminess, which makes the powder appear a little more creamy and delicate.

After one hour at the latest, I finally have a rich, airy, creamy and sunny bouquet of flowers on me. On an early summer day I stand in front of a flower bed in the garden and inhale the scent of countless colourful flowers.
It is important for me to stress that these are garden flowers that grow and smell in fresh summer air, not cut flowers in a vase. The typical green-stalk-like accompanying notes, which I smell when entering a flower shop (and in some flower scents), are missing here.

Altogether a clean-flowery, sunny and colourful bouquet of flowers that slowly settles on a fine bed of sandalwood and a few micrograms of vanilla powder. A mix of cream powder, iris powder and chypre-like fresh elements to accompany the friendly, radiant flower symphony that dominates everything else from beginning to end.

"Essence Rare" looks calm and elegant ... and mature. As far away as it can be from some garish, loud, striking girly flower scents as a fragrance can only be.
It's not a "typical", minimalist Jean-Claude Ellena. I have the impression that he returned to his roots here when he created classics like "First" for Van Cleef&Arpels and fragrances for Sisley in the 70s. This fragrance is classic perfume art for me. An elegant fragrance, which in contrast to its "First" does not appear overloaded with flowers, but in spite of the sea of blossoms is light-hearted and fairylike

To make the scent comparable: For my nose, the flower mix itself has a striking resemblance to Guerlain's "Jardins de Bagatelle", but here it appears fresher and therefore "more modern".
What makes "Essence Rare" so special for me, however, is the accompaniment from different facets of the iris, from white-floury to lipstick-creamy, which sometimes wrap the bouquet in fine gauze, sometimes softly creamy.
8 Comments
Candila 5 years ago 6 3
6
Sillage
9
Longevity
9
Scent
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Anyway the wind blows
"Bohemian Rhapsody" is for my nose a middle thing between a fresh-tart, green chypre and a soap-clean, floral aldehyde scent.
For me a reservedly appearing smell with narrow Sillage (but long durability) and a still melancholischen statement.

A wide field. Vetiver grasses and green patchouli leaves to the horizon. Occasionally, berry bushes rise out of the dense green, most still bear only buds, some already ripe, dark berries. The landscape is frozen in hoar frost.
The first spray captures this landscape at the exact moment when the sun rises, the earth warms up and the fresh green begins to breathe. Now peppery, spicy patchouli, fresh, light green vetiver and the matt, shiny, dark berries give off their intense aromas that are enclosed overnight.
Soon a gentle, only wishy-washy breeze is blowing over the landscape, bringing with it the scent of bright rose and tuberose blossoms. Aldehydes swirl up the scent of fresh earth, spicy green and berry-coloured flower air.
A cool, but not cold start, while I watch the landscape wake up and perceive the energy and power of peppery and spicy aromas.

In the further consequence the smell loses at me however fast at power. For the next 1-2 hours it develops into a very soapy fragrance thanks to an extra clean rose and a very light, abstract and purified, almost "sterile" white tuberose. A disappointing phase for me; this could be any soapy rose scent, from Bronnley or Yardley or Floris (looks so British cool somehow). But it also looks vintage, after soap-aldehyde rose scent in a stiff tweed jacket.
"Bohemian Rhapsody can do more than that. The silent, steamed, dark and slightly bitter berry note calms the floral, glistening brightness. This cool and relatively unsweet, matt blackcurrant note, with tart buds rather than ripe berries, gives the fragrance depth and a touch of quiet melancholy.
It takes approx. 2 hours on my skin until the soapiness, which has dominated until then, retreats a little or is softened. For the rest of the course, "Bohemian Rhapsody" then offers a very calm, slightly earthy and airy-clean, with increasing wearing time also somewhat warmer rose tuberose fragrance, always accompanied by this gently shimmering berry note and the intense aromas that rise from the green, spicy landscape.

By a lucky coincidence a short mail contact with Ali Kashani, the founder of Art meets Art, arose, who confirmed to me that from the beginning it would have been the intention to create a romantic vintage character together with Frank Voelkl. Of course he wouldn't know what Freddie would have said about the fragrance, but the other band members would have been thrilled.
As I mentioned above, I also perceive the scent character as "vintage", between rough chypre and clean-floral aldehyde scent, but I only feel it to a limited extent as romantic. For a long time I lack a few degrees of warmth in the fragrance.

"Bohemian Rhapsody" is not a fragrance twin to "Madame de Carven", "Lady Knize" or "Lady Stetson", but the fragrance character goes in a similar direction with its cool, soapy, flowery and spicy green statement.
I see the scent on a British lady in stiff tweed, green with matt burgundy stripes. And at me :-), however rather in summer, for the winter I feel him a tick too cool.


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