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Essence Rare 2018

Version from 2018
7.7 / 10 93 Ratings
A popular perfume by Houbigant for women, released in 2018. The scent is floral-powdery. It is being marketed by Perris Group.
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Main accords

Floral
Powdery
Creamy
Green
Fresh

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
Mandarin orangeMandarin orange
Heart Notes Heart Notes
JasmineJasmine Lily of the valleyLily of the valley RoseRose
Base Notes Base Notes
SandalwoodSandalwood VanillaVanilla AmberAmber OakmossOakmoss

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
7.793 Ratings
Longevity
7.981 Ratings
Sillage
7.580 Ratings
Bottle
8.281 Ratings
Value for money
6.528 Ratings
Submitted by Cafenoir · last update on 09/21/2025.
Source-backed & verified
Interesting Facts
The fragrance is part of the Collection Privée collection.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
Le Gemme - Zahira by Bvlgari
Le Gemme - Zahira
Blossom Love (Eau de Parfum) by Amouage
Blossom Love Eau de Parfum
Ostara by Penhaligon's
Ostara
Jasmin d'Eau by Lancôme
Jasmin d'Eau

Reviews

4 in-depth fragrance descriptions
Raluko111

433 Reviews
Raluko111
Raluko111
1  
Flower shop vibes.
Essence Rare opens with a green, vegetal smell of freshly cut, wet flower stems, as if you are inside a flower shop. In the background the flowers start to appear on the stage, jasmine, roses, and lilies of the valley. The evolution is pretty linear, a little boring and unpleasant for me, as the lily of the valleys with the oakmoss beginning to take center and dominate. If you like lily of the valley, you might enjoy this. It's just a note that I don't particularly care for.

Essence Rare se deschide cu un miros verde-vegetal de tulpini de flori ude, proaspăt tăiate, ca și cum ai intrat într-o florărie. Pe fundal, apar și florile, iasomia, trandafirii, și lăcrimioarele. Evoluția este foarte liniară, cam plictisitoare și neplăcută pentru că lăcrimioarele încep să domine împreună cu lichenul. Dacă îți plac lăcrimioarele, poate că o să te încânte. Siaj și persistență moderate. 6/10
0 Comments
DonJuanDeCat

2047 Reviews
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DonJuanDeCat
DonJuanDeCat
Top Review 18  
Habit Rouge for Ladies?
Hello, you sniffers, and good evening :)
Tonight, I’m introducing a new, old fragrance. Huh, how can that be, you might be asking?! Well, the fragrance Essence Rare is already a classic, first released in 1928, reissued in 1976, and finally revised and re-released in 2018. I know that many of you think that reformulated fragrances always lose quality. That may indeed be true, but I can’t say much about it yet, as I haven’t experienced fragrances over multiple generations, since I’m not as old as all of you (… so much for my New Year’s resolution to be a bit nicer to you ladies here… :DD), but I also think that not all reformulations have to be bad.

Anyway, it seems that the perfumer of this fragrance doesn’t mind reformulations either, especially when given the honor of re-composing a classic fragrance. It’s then about combining tried-and-true elements from the past with something new, at least according to the perfumer.

Well, since I don’t know the 1976 fragrance and especially the 1928 fragrance of this one, as I said, I’m not nearly as old as you (… I really should, REALLY stop referring to you ladies as older… :DD), I can’t write a comparison test, but as always, I’ll share my opinion on this fragrance and try to describe it as accurately as possible :)

The Fragrance:
The fragrance actually starts with quite classic notes, or it smells like a classic French fragrance. At first sniff, it reminds me a lot of Guerlain’s wonderful Habit Rouge, only a bit more floral and feminine. You can smell lily of the valley and jasmine, as well as a creamy-powdery note that could come from notes like violet or even more so, iris. A hint of the stated mandarin is also present, but you have to sniff very closely to detect it. When you sniff directly at the sprayed spot, you can briefly perceive a mandarin, or better said, a mandarin peel, as it comes off slightly bitter.
The classic impression of the fragrance remains later on, which is not surprising due to notes like oak moss. Additionally, the fragrance also appears slightly soapy or clean.
Towards the end, the fragrance continues to smell classic with oak moss and remains creamy-soft due to powdery notes. Of course, the fragrance is also beautifully floral. And this is exactly the kind of floral notes that I like in a ladies' fragrance, as they don’t smell cloying or stuffy, but simply come across as beautifully feminine. I still lean towards lily of the valley and jasmine, although the roses are now also more noticeable. Along with the floral sweetness, there’s another sweetness from the vanilla. Overall, a truly lovely fragrance.

The Sillage and Longevity:
Although the fragrance seems soft, it has a strong sillage, so it can be perceived from a distance for a while. It’s pleasant to smell without being overwhelming. The longevity is also very good, as you can still smell the fragrance well on the skin after ten hours.

The Bottle:
The bottle is round and plump, with thick lines running around the glass that look like veins and seem to divide the glass into many separate chambers. On the front, one of these “chambers” is gilded and represents the label. The neck of the bottle is pink, and a cap designed similarly to the bottle sits on top, only this one is hemispherical and transparent. A very beautiful bottle.

Conclusion:
So, this fragrance really has something about it that is very appealing. I’m not always a fan of old-fashioned fragrances, but there are quite a few that I really, really like, such as Habit Rouge by Guerlain, which I can even wear at my over 30, 32, 34 (… let’s stop here, shall we? :D) years. You see, you’re not the only ones who have gotten much older… I’m just probably a tad younger than all of you, mu ha ha ha. Alright, alright, don’t come at me with pitchforks. Maybe it helps if I say that you ladies can still look absolutely stunning even at an older age?! Well, is there peace again now? :D

Anyway, although I don’t know the previous Essence Rare fragrances by Houbigant, I find this one simply very successful and therefore highly recommendable. It may not be a fragrance for younger people or for those who don’t like that classic touch, but I think it smells very good. It comes across as very elegant, has a slightly soapy-clean component, and just smells nice.

It’s an all-rounder, so in my opinion, it’s a fragrance for every season (except maybe very hot summer days) and can be worn subtly both during the day and especially for the evening and going out. Definitely give it a try sometime; it could be worth it!

That brings me to the end. Please excuse my age jokes (hey, I still find you all very sexy… uh, I meant I love you all :DD) and have a great evening, until next time :)
4 Comments
Seerose

775 Reviews
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Seerose
Seerose
Top Review 0  
She Wouldn't Have Liked It
Over the past decades, I have had to attend so many funerals and memorial services. In doing so, I experienced the most absurd scenes, involuntarily comical and bordering on cabaret-like expressions and actions from mourners, even from those most closely affected.
Not to mention the speeches and life lies presented by the speakers.
As well as boundless grief, behind which not infrequently other sorrows and foreign mourning were unleashed. Funerals where an "Ave Maria" was spoken up to 100 times by a female voice over loudspeakers, while the mourners melted away in the sun and heat in black clothing.
Until I landed in Parfumo, the scent of half-wilting or strongly fragrant flowers like lilies and other blooms often played a breathtaking role for me, quite literally. Since then, I have scented myself for such occasions in a way that I can perceive myself and push the others aside.
Because I have experienced and observed so much absurdity at funerals and memorial services, I have considered several times whether I should write a collection of funeral stories. Alone: The new engagement with scents has kept me from doing so.
This would thus be the first published short story about the memorial service I experienced today, where a perfume, namely "Essence Rare," at least played a role for me.
My friend Hildegard did not pass away unexpectedly, but peacefully at the age of 95.
My friend Hildegard had, until the end, bright gold-red dyed hair and always wore black clothing, as she said. And she loved perfume, preferably Jovan Musk Oil and woody scents. So I also dressed entirely in black, even though I did not belong to the close circle of mourners, in her memory. And now the perfume?
I didn't think long: "Essence Rare"! And after spraying and letting it develop, I immediately thought: That was the wrong choice.
This scent would have never pleased Hildegard. And she would have made that clear to me without beating around the bush, I thought amused.
I had only tested it on my wrists and clearly perceived it as a scent with finely balanced beautiful and subtle white flowers. Immediately, I also smelled and had the scent of dry-powdery iris, which is not listed. - Later, "Essence Rare" becomes creamy. Despite the latent opulence, it is a delicate scent. "Essence Rare" is, typical of Elléna, an almost minimalist, in a special way dry-sober scent, created this time with white flowers. There is no long progression; within a few minutes, the scent settles, becoming only more delicate, the initially pronounced indole of the white flowers recedes.
But today I also sprayed on my décolletage, and now I smelled "lilies" as the main flower.
My husband, meanwhile, thought I smelled very elegant. He likes such scents.
And he also said that I only smelled very subtly and finely.
I could and did not want to change that anymore. In the church, it would not be warm; who knows if anyone else would even notice. And after all, I primarily scented myself for myself.
The church, meanwhile, was not decorated with any typical, strongly scented, and huge floral arrangements. Hildegard loved tulips and cyclamen. She loved the simplicity of the archaic block of stone altar from the Middle Ages with the mysterious five consecration crosses. This stands in contrast to the opulent baldachin and the pyramid pulpit from the Baroque.
When Hildegard and I prepared this altar for services, we looked at the ancient stone slab with the crosses in reverence. I felt "Shekina" was there. We never spoke about what we felt and thought about it; we remained silent.
So her place with the urn was only decorated with a cream-white organza cloth, surrounded only by a few upright giant grasses, nothing else. On the altar stood white tulips.
So I sat there, smelling my scent and thought: Oh, now I am contributing just a little bit to the ambiance (Italian: smell, scent, environment) that otherwise prevails at funerals in small churches and mourning halls.
It was a sober and quiet memorial service; not much was said, I smelled "Essence Rare," and I liked it more and more. I remembered that Hildegard was the first person we encountered here in this church.
What coincidences and events made us friends with an immediate understanding. How I often helped her as she became smaller and weaker.
No, "Essence Rare" will not become for me the funeral and mourning service scent.
It is also not a scent for other "great events." "Essence Rare," so my conclusion, is a sober-quiet yet intimate scent. A scent for contemplative hours, to find peace.
It may be that "Essence Rare," through this farewell, radiates a latent melancholy for me despite the brightness. Perhaps also because the always light indolic hint suggests passing, transience, and decay.
"A Dio, ci verdiamo in paradiso, Hildegard"
14 Comments
Candila

27 Reviews
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Candila
Candila
Top Review 21  
Multifaceted Cream Flower Scent
Sleeping flowers, this image goes through my mind with every spray.
“Essence Rare” starts off so calmly, expressing such profound silence and tranquility that I almost want to switch into meditation mode myself.
In the opening, a whisper-thin, mild “chalky” iris powder is sprinkled over fresh and initially only moderately sweet flowers. Not the powdery impression I usually smell in powdery scents, no sugary sweetness and nothing lively “powdery,” but a dry, powdery white layer over still resting flower heads.
Nevertheless, nothing here feels tired or dull; beneath the powdery layer, you can sense the life and energy of the flowers, just waiting for the sunrise to rise up and bloom in all colors.

And that happens within the first hour. Lily of the valley, rose, and jasmine bloom harmoniously next to each other, spreading their enchanting fragrance. A mild citrus breeze from fresh, partly ripe and juicy, partly still green, aromatic mandarins occasionally drifts through the composition, keeping the warm flowers fresh.
As the wearing time increases, the iris develops a subtle lipstick creaminess alongside its powdery facet, making the powder feel a bit more viscous and delicately creamy.

After at most an hour, I finally wear a substantial, airy-creamy, and sunny bouquet of flowers. I stand on a late spring day in front of a flower bed in the garden and breathe in the scent of countless colorful blooms.
It is important for me to emphasize that these are garden flowers growing and blooming in fresh summer air, not cut flowers in a vase. The typically green-stemmed accompanying notes that I smell when entering a flower shop (and in some floral scents) are absent here.

Overall, a clean-floral, sunny, and colorful bouquet of flowers that slowly settles on a fine bed of sandalwood and a few micrograms of vanilla powder. A mix of cream powder, iris powder, and chypre-like fresh elements accompanying the friendly radiant floral symphony that dominates everything from start to finish.

“Essence Rare” feels calm and elegant … and grown-up. So far removed from some garish, loud, flashy girly floral scents, as a fragrance can be.
It is not a “typical,” minimalist Jean-Claude Ellena. I have the impression that he has returned to his roots here, as he created classics like “First” for Van Cleef&Arpels and fragrances for Sisley in the 1970s. This scent is for me classic perfume art. An elegant fragrance that, in contrast to his “First,” does not feel overloaded with flowers, but despite the sea of blooms comes across as carefree and fairy-like light.

To make the scent comparable: The floral mix itself has a striking resemblance to “Jardins de Bagatelle” by Guerlain for my nose, but here it feels fresher and thus “more modern.”
What makes "Essence Rare" special for me is the accompaniment of different facets of iris, from white-mealy to lipstick-creamy, which sometimes envelop the bouquet in fine gauze and sometimes gently underlay it with creaminess.
8 Comments

Statements

20 short views on the fragrance
36
14
High summer floral splendor.
Bees buzzing, a few butterflies swaying cheerfully.
Life is beautiful.
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14 Comments
18
22
A floral bouquet that I would place in the 50s. Jasmine + green lily of the valley, with a creamy powdery base. Very intense, not for everyone.
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22 Comments
18
3
Radiant early summer floral splendor in cream powder. Not too ladylike. Fresh, floral, and cozy at the same time. A fairy scent.
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3 Comments
16
2
Quite a sophisticated potion of white flowers in a dreamy bottle, definitely grounded with a good dose of powdery musk.
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2 Comments
15
3
A modern balanced lily of the valley chypre. Fresh, mature, elegant. Carries you through the day and perfect for welcoming spring soon.
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3 Comments
14
2
White flower mix, fine indolic - lilies, daffodils, jasmine, and more. Iris powdery dry + sandalwood creamy. Sober, elegant - discreet yet subtly seductive.
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2 Comments
12
4
In the familiar forest, in the shade of cool green leaves and mossy trunks, tropical jasmine blooms beside lily of the valley as if by magic.
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4 Comments
11
4
Connected to its classic brand roots: Very floral, very powdery, very feminine and thus "a wanderer between the times."
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4 Comments
12
12
The name is enticing; however, the scent is hard to categorize. Too floral classic. I miss spice + sweetness.
Close to the skin, elegant, soapy, feminine.
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12 Comments
11
10
A scent like a magnificent flamingo. Colorful (almost gaudy), elegant, and a bit stiff. Jasmine all over. Too much for me. Yet I like...
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10 Comments
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