DK74

DK74

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Toast!? Yes, Toast!
Starts with plum/coffee/citrus, spices complement subtly (pepper/cinnamon/cardamom); I would claim that you can actually smell the toast quite distinctly - well, I probably wouldn't have recognized it as such without the DP - if we're being honest. But yes, the toast is clearly and long-lastingly noticeable. Frankincense/tea/geranium play rather subtly in the fragrance concert. Only after about 7 hours does the base come into play in the form of wood. The long-lasting drydown - the fragrance orchestra continues to play for several more hours - consists of the base - dominated by myrrh and sandalwood, patchouli/amber/cedar complement it.
Conclusion: Wow, this is delicious! And I love it when a fragrance surprises me (positively) - toast in perfume, you really have to come up with that - but it fits really well with the other fragrance components - if you like plum and can afford it - yes, that's the only criticism - you should definitely give it a try.

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WHAT has it done to you?
I believe this fragrance is the worst rated one I have ever tested... And since I have had well over 500 on my skin, I must express my astonishment at this rating. Not only does it not deserve that - on the contrary, in the realm of aquatic designer fragrances, it actually does quite well. I find it has only a slight shower gel nuance. For me, ginger/juniper/sage and the salty notes dominate, and that fits very well - sure, it's not an Acqua di Parma fragrance experience - there is clearly some synthetic element at play here - but without really being annoying.

Conclusion: Those looking for a coherent yet light aquatic fragrance, and who can live with subtle synthetic notes, are absolutely in the right place here.
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I am addicted
The top note completely blew me away the first time - at that moment I hadn't read the description and therefore didn't know what it was that I was smelling... Admittedly, I didn't think of rose - however, once you know, you wonder why you didn't realize it right away - well, that might be because it starts with a 'rose sauna infusion' - that sounds strange, but it smells absolutely wonderful - rosemary and rose harmonize excellently. The scent transforms over time into a rose tea fragrance - first spicy, then sweet - even very sweet, almost liqueur-like - the other components balance this out very well; gradually the sweetness fades and the rose tea is underlined with light wood; I can't exactly determine where the wood impression comes from - maybe from the rose geranium? Not from the incense resin or benzoin - they act quite differently than expected and are much more subtle than one usually knows - they play in the orchestra of scents well before the base, but change nothing about the dominance of the rose.

Conclusion: anyone who likes rose should definitely test this one! The only downside - for an EdP, the longevity is really outrageous - I would say a maximum of 4 hours.
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You can smell ozone! But do you want that?
It starts off with a full dose of ozone - I have never really thought about what that might smell like, but I would say it is well captured in this fragrance. So how does it smell? I would describe it as gray, dusty, chemical, salty. Whether it was a good decision to create a scent around this, I would somewhat doubt, as the fragrance experience is quite demanding; interesting, but certainly!
After about half an hour, the flowers gradually come through; you sense the honey more than you actually smell it, but it becomes pleasantly salty/sweet without any harshness.
The components of the base are also far from being harsh, but rather blend in subtly with the overall picture.

Conclusion: If the ozone had been used less prominently, this could have been a fine, light summer fragrance; however, the ozone overkill makes it difficult to wear.
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DK74 4 years ago 4 3
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Ernest Beaux is to Blame!
Basically, I love the old classics, but I often have problems with scents that are designed for women (e.g. Mitsuko - often found in Guerlain fragrances, although not mentioned in the description) - there is always a scent component that I can't stand... Until now, I hadn't understood aldehydes as an independent fragrance, but thought this chemical scent was only meant to 'support' the other included fragrance notes. Now I know that the aldehyde complex can be understood as an independent note - and the mystery is solved - the aldehyde scent is to blame!

Unfortunately, it also hits hard here and simply overshadows everything in my scent perception - I can't detect any citrus at all; even in the heart notes, the aldehydes are mega dominant for me, so the flowers only appear in the background; with the classic base, they finally disappear from my nose... - unfortunately, that's much too late to enjoy this surely wonderful classic.

It would be interesting to know if I'm the only one who feels this way...
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