DarkWinterCS

DarkWinterCS

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DarkWinterCS 3 years ago 4 1
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
6.5
Scent
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Xerjoff number 5 - metallic coolness
Often I have mentioned in reviews of fresh fragrances that there are quite problems for me to use the complete selection of notes. Especially with the classic men's fragrances for the summer I have made one or the other bad experience. Because my fear opponents are called here orange blossom and neroli. My nose trembles before these notes just as it does with rose in the darker range. It has happened several times that my nose smells and connects things that others don't even sniff out and look at me with big question marks. My grandma used to have little mini bottles of 4711 on the mirror cabinet and unfortunately many fragrances with the two components often remind me of these 4711 samples. The association to the bath or meanly said the toilet was then just sometime in my head.

Now I wanted to test on my journey through the world of Xerjoff like the interpretation of the brand with these notes, maybe I will be positively surprised and discover a fragrance that erases these thoughts and associations from my memory. In the first step, it should be this Nero70, which is exclusively distributed by Campomarzio70. From the notes given, the scent definitely appealed to me, although neroli was listed. But that should not be an exclusion criterion in the first scrap, because I was more interested in how the fragrance is perceived by other perfumos. Because a well concealed note, which one does not like can nevertheless make a good fragrance. So I organized myself accordingly the appropriate sample.

One can say, I was quite surprised as the fragrance presented itself and met my nose a little more than other fragrances in this category ever did. This fresh and citrusy start was dreamy and very refreshing. If I'm not mistaken, I could even detect some citrus peel as there was a certain green nuance to it. It was then joined by cool, metallic neroli notes which almost had a certain powderiness to them. However, this is more likely to have been due to the vanilla that was added to create a balancing effect. For a good half hour, this smell of neroli and vanilla was heavenly and very refreshing for me. However, for my nose, from that point on, the balance tipped towards a bit more sweetness and vanilla, which unfortunately created the state that I don't like in these types of scents. It became a bit soapy and pungent and thus not as pleasant for me as it was in the beginning. Because this soapiness is what I know from neroli fragrances and I don't like it at all. For all those who like neroli, this fragrance will be a dream, because it is soft, round and very flattering.

Especially the very good sillage then put the crown on, so that I could not wear the fragrance longer. Again and again a surge came towards me, which as mentioned only later became a torment for me. With just one spray, one envelops his body and the environment at a distance of easily two meters with the fragrance. So again, hats off to Xerjoff here for how often a good sillage is achieved. Even after trying to wash the scent off, it is still clearly audible and the projection is still very heavy from my arm. So here's definitely a very good note and a thumbs up.

Too bad, it would have been a fragrance that would have had quite a place in my collection, had the balance not tipped for my nose at the end and thus drifted into the typical soapiness.
It may well be that some perceive nothing of the sort in this fragrance, but probably mine is like with too intense rose aromas I simply do not get the nose free and hear the notes stronger than they actually are.

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DarkWinterCS 3 years ago 8
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
7.5
Scent
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Xerjoff number 4 - creamy brother
Oh again a Xerjoff, if that is not a coincidence. After I fell with Irisss from the same house in true gasps and tried with the wire brush to scratch the coating of roses from my tongue I wanted to try a softer fragrance that was sweeter, warmer and also a little more playful. Thus it was certain, Naxos will be the next fragrance that has the luck or misfortune to land under my nose.
Naxos also belongs to the category of the most popular Xerjoff fragrances and also generally to the most popular unisex fragrances. High expectations for the fragrance are therefore not entirely avoidable and from the fragrance pyramid and the statements and reviews made so far, it seemed to be a perfume that should flatter my nose. Especially the stated notes with cinnamon, honey and tobacco made me sit up and take notice, as these are ingredients that I have always liked in the past and are included in some fragrances that appeal to me.

I'd also like to give a shout out here for the flacon design. The XJ1861 series I personally like best with its milky glass-like coating and the beautiful contrast the, represented on the front national flag colors of Italy. A simple, but still eye-catching design, where a bottle makes itself very pretty in the bathroom or on a shelf.

But now let's get to the fragrance itself. Because Naxos must bring more than just beautiful to stand there. I expected a fragrance that should not be so dissimilar to the Uden, but still a little sweeter and a little moister by the tobacco. I was soon to find out, however, that my expectations were relatively far off the mark. But this shows once again how much fragrances can differ despite similar scent pyramids (yes, they're only there for marketing). The fragrance came to me but then strangely familiar, as if I had similar already under the nose, but can not remember what it was.

The start is with Naxos also as usual with Xerjoff slightly citrusy, then quickly flattening into other fragrance notes, which give the fragrance the defining characteristics. In the case of Naxos, these are light lavender notes and vanilla notes, which together create a certain creaminess and seem only slightly sweetened. I've long shied away from lavender in particular, as it sometimes gives the impression of mustiness or dull steaminess. But I have come to appreciate lavender in Xerjoff Homme and find the note quite wearable there. Back to the Naxos, the creaminess created is still somewhat underpinned with the citrusy impression of the top notes and therefore feels less oppressive than in really creamy fragrances. You then notice how slowly a few spices are added and the scent slowly takes the shape you expect. I detect the cinnamon quite well, but there is another spice in there, if my nose isn't playing tricks on me. At first I would have thought of anise or fennel, but this is only guessed at in the shallows of the scent. Surprisingly, I detect the honey indicated less than I expected. He sweetens the fragrance on my skin only minimally and also does not seem animalic or dirty.

The durability and sillage are Xerjoff-typically again on a high level and line up seamlessly with the rest of the program. One can spend his workday easily with the fragrance and he would also not bother anyone, because it is more the wearer with light fragrance mist ensnares instead of how wildly the area einzuften.

The fragrance seems in its overall composition and coordination very round and pleasant to wear. It is understandable why it is so popular and well rated. A no-brainer among niche fragrances and a fine example of the Xerjoff DNA. For me, though, it ended up being too unspectacular and too quickly at the end of its development. Perhaps a little twist, like a slightly wicked and dirty honey note would have given the fragrance something that would have appealed to me more. So it remains a very good fragrance, but could have been more if it had dared.
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DarkWinterCS 3 years ago 3 2
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
6.5
Scent
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Xerjoff number 3
My fragrance journey through the world of Xerjoff scents is now officially underway with this review. I have previously tested the Mamluk and Alexandria II, however, the two are me in the search of an Oud Wood successor get under the nose.

So why not start with this fragrance, which could acquire many laurels, many find the fragrance incredibly great and it also fits me from the notes. However, I'm already fallen with the Alexandria II with it on the nose, because here came out unexpectedly a note from the fragrance pyramid, which has spoiled me the otherwise very good fragrance something. Often enough, I've mentioned that my nose is very sensitive to rose notes and closes quickly when the intensity of the rose becomes too much. Even with perfumes that contain minimal rose but don't do a good job of concealing it, I notice this and thus the scent is usually unwearable for me. I could not imagine why just this Irisss now exactly this note should work out so strongly (for my nose).

Irisss is described by most as a cool, dry and very elegant fragrance. Since I had to do so far mainly in the designer area with iris notes or these were allowed to sniff there, it was clear to me, this fragrance is interesting. Because almost every fragrance tested so far with a good portion of iris has appealed to me in some way and was found to be at least good. Whether it was Prada L'Homme or Valentino Uomo Intense. Even with some niche fragrances, the iris always came across as pleasant.
It's true as it's always said. This Xerjoff settles on the note as the main ingredient and is simply dry as dust due to the high concentration. The more times a gush of scent from my arm got into my nose, the more I felt like I had to drink something first because my mouth was getting dry. You could put out a fire with this dryness. Maybe someday there will be powder extinguishers from Xerjoff. With this dryness comes another quality that is rarely found in designer iris scents, it is extremely unsweet. In the designer range, iris is embedded in such a way that it either comes across as sweet or creamy. Here it is not the case, which is why the association of a cooling effect is reinforced. Sniffing does the whole thing then after very luxurious face powder, a big pot full in which one makes snow angels.

After a few minutes, I noticed the rumble of thunder slowly approaching me. My nemesis and final boss. Before I could scream "Oh holy rose" this one was already up my nose and with that I was completely out. In this case, it's not the rose alone, but the complete mixture that did me in. I would guess the rose is further enhanced by other floral notes, because it smelled different than other rose scents that have knocked me out before. But it became clear to me, the dryness of the iris, which is already very fierce in the nose combined with the rose, which has laid extremely quickly on my tongue will make me neither happy, nor let me sleep peacefully.

Who also wants to test a real sillage monster, which should organize a sample of this fragrance. One spray of this fragrance and an entire room was filled smelling nothing but irisss. No matter where I held my arm or no matter how far away from me, I could always detect the scent. About the durability, I can unfortunately not make any statements, because I have not held out the fragrance so long to exhaust the maximum.

For others, the fragrance may be really excellent, just the people who like extreme powderiness and elegance. Who like me has an aversion to rose, should rather look for other fragrances, because Irisss was in my nose the absolute rose overkill. Qualitatively, you can not say anything, because he gives what he promises and sniffs in its entirety extremely valuable and noble.
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DarkWinterCS 3 years ago 11 4
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
8
Scent
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Coffee and milk for the Knilch
I love good coffee and I also love the smell of good coffee. But what I love even more is the smell in a good coffee roastery with an attached café, where the self-roasted beans are processed directly and we as end customers are served a wonderful tasting drink. Where a skilled barista practices his passionate craft and conjures up fine crema with coffee and milk and creates images in the foam. These smells are so tempting and pleasant to the nose.
For a long time I have been looking for a suitable fragrance that reproduces this smell and makes it sprayable. However, to date I have not found a suitable scent that both showcases the ripe and roasted beans and combines that dash of pleasant sweetness and milky notes.
Perhaps you have a tip, as Intense Cafe and Cafe Tuberosa were not worth mentioning and many other fragrances are too green to offer me the scent of a roasted coffee.

For the cafe at the roastery I have now at least already found the milk. Because Molton Brown gives us Milk Musk, a scent that smells amazingly real to what the scent is called. A fragrance predestined for gourmand noses, which smells so incredibly strongly of food, as I have rarely experienced. Often one has in dessert-scented fragrances still certain nuances that bring times a twist purely to stand out yet something from the origin. Here this is not the case.

Molton Browns Milk Musk actually smells like wonderful milk mixed with musk. Only notes that also support the overall character of the fragrance are used and nothing is spoiled. As a whole, the construct smells like lukewarm condensed milk, which pours out of the pot almost viscously. Slightly sweetened, really creamy due to the musk and delicate vanilla aromas assault you with reality. It all sounds so unspectacular, but on my skin it was a real explosion of associations. One could get the idea to use the fragrance as a pure scent, because everything sniffs so real.
After a while, a few resins come in or push their way to the fore, which take away some of the reality of the scent. But I suspect that one had to make this compromise to also achieve a corresponding reasonable durability. Cocoa I can not detect in this fragrance, even if others have heard the notes.
The development of the perfume I would also describe as relatively linear. Desired it was certainly that the authentic smell remains as long as possible and is not disturbed by other notes too much. From there you can say boring, if you want a greater scent progression.

Unfortunately, the sillage is a little weak on the chest, as I would have liked a little more intensity for these yet restrained chords. In this way, it is only a fragrance for the wearer and not for the environment. As mentioned, the durability is extended by the resinous notes at the end, however, the greatest spectacle is already over there and you have to bother with the remains of the drying condensed milk.

The barista must therefore no longer use milk, only Molton Brown Milk Musk.
4 Comments
DarkWinterCS 3 years ago 19 4
9
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
8
Scent
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In the zoo ? On the toilet? No, on the hunter's skin!
With Histoires de Parfums 1740 was it once again so far, a fragrance I found rather by chance in a video on YouTube and which let me by his description already skillfully listen up. Because through my recent experiences, not least through my own taste, I knew that this kind of fragrances surprisingly flatter my nose and are quite more wearable than it was often described. These dark, also often animalic scents have quite a high attraction to myself and so I love to sniff them on my skin. Here, my environment and also my colleagues at work must be steadfast, but they have endured even such things as Civet.
For me was quite interesting also the person to whom the date 1740 is linked, Marquis de Sade. Here I had yet some time ago the Attquer le Soleil, which was subtitled by Etat Libre d'Orange with the same name. This one officially worked with only one fragrance component, the cistus, which gave the scent surprising depth and played a resinous firework, one that immediately captivated me and has rightly convinced to this day. Also, the certain wickedness and the dirt were felt, which is why you heard the depths of perversion in this fragrance.

What can we now expect from this work and the second question, will the fragrance convince me in the same way as the Attaquer le Soleil could. Basically, the fragrance would have to be clearly different from the other Marquis de Sade, because the notes at first glance with birch, coriander and cardamom seem green-spicy. However, you can tell where the fragrance is going when you read notes like labdanum, vanilla, elemi resin and leather.

"You smell like animal enclosure," was the first statement my wife made when I held my arm under her nose to sniff. That was exactly the kind of statement I needed to start my test. Oddly enough, my wife sniffs Animalik with actual animalic notes less than in fragrances where they are not listed at all. So my beloved Zoologist Civet was far from bad for her nose. But I have to agree with her, you can definitely detect animalic notes in this 1740. It's just that here, the impressions come from the resinous leather combination with patchouli. It's something dark, something sweaty, something resinous. A wild mix of a hunter's living room with leather chair and fireplace, as well as nature in its somewhat animalic form. Above all, I feel the fragrance as quite wicked and yet sexually attractive by this always flashing warmth of the resins.
If you then go times in itself, just the combination of a citrusy beginning, with dark and resinous notes in the heart and base seems quite classic. Some fragrances of well-known brands play with it and make a modern interpretation of yet very classic fragrances. But here it is not like that. The modern touch is completely missing and so it remains a classic fragrance that comes along very voluminous and with a statement.
Thus, it is also not a fragrance that pleases the masses, on the contrary. Rather, one that will suit only the smallest number of people to 100%. This may also be because the composition is already very masculine and dominant.

The only criticism I have is the drydown or how the fragrance smells after a good three to four hours. Because as soon as the leather notes and the resin has warped it then comes unfamiliar herbaceous-greenish. I think it will be the coriander, which then spreads slightly musty over hours on the skin. For me, it smelled at first like lovage, the well-known Maggi herb. Granted, it's not that this note is overly annoying. However, over the entire remaining fragrance time only this note is audible.
One can attest to the fragrance namely quite a good fragrance time. Locker 10 hours I could hear the fragrance on my arm, even if it is slowly skin after a good five hours. So the effective coriander time is only a good two hours on my skin.
If the dark and resinous notes made it through the five hours and the coriander note only kicked in when it was close to my skin, then it would have easily earned the 9.5. Because so the beautiful part of the fragrance flies away far too quickly.

Finally, I have to say to the fragrance, unfortunately, that it is really very good. The start and the first two hours are the absolute madness, but after that it becomes too quickly too herbaceous and a bit boring. For this you can not complain about the price and also the selection of bottle sizes is perfect. Because so I could test the fragrance without a guilty conscience with the 15ml.

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