Deyboncrow

I've smelled the fragrance in the store before, where I only read Apple Blossom and expected a beautiful, fine apple blossom from Clive Christian, but unfortunately that didn't quite come through, I must have overlooked the crab. Nevertheless, I found the fragrance interesting, but rather weak.

I then ordered myself a tester.

The fragrance

For me, the fragrance offers the most in the first half hour. In terms of intensity and complexity.
It starts tangy and spicy, my brain recognizes a green apple (not apple blossom), perhaps the mixture of rhubarb, green leaves and the apple blossom. The spiciness comes from the pink pepper, which gives the top note that pithy, vibrant quality that almost tickles the nose, as pink pepper does for me.

Then a slight sweetness and something tingly, which I associate with the mojito note, and it mixes the green impression with a hint of sea air.
Only now does the mint come in and the fragrance becomes much cooler. Mint, green rhubarb and dry driftwood perform a dance. For me, this moment results in an unusual blend of fresh green and yet dry wood.

The green now recedes and the mint becomes softer, gentler and blends with this maritime accord, which actually makes me think of crab shells. Seay, salty.
Now the fragrance doesn't change much, it becomes even softer as it progresses and a creaminess from the sandalwood joins in. After about 4-5 hours, it is only perceptible close to my skin.


I actually find the top note the most interesting part of the fragrance, as there is simply a lot more going on here and the complexity that we know from the house is revealed. The rest of the fragrance is less complex, but still very unique in terms of DNA.

I've been to a perfume workshop at the Parfümbar twice and regularly order fragrance ingredients to mix my own perfumes. Bibi once sent me a bottle of her Ambra.

When looking at the fragrance notes (on her homepage), the "hot asphalt" (here on Parfumo as coal, but it definitely smells like asphalt!) immediately catches the eye. I've never really seen anything like it, but do you really want to smell like hot asphalt?

The fragrance:

The opening is pleasantly floral with a slight freshness (perhaps from the grapefruit, even if I can't smell any clear citrus) The asphalt accord already plays a present role in the top note, but is not yet hot.
The fresh floral notes recede somewhat and now I can really smell the asphalt, which is heated by the sun and over which the air begins to shimmer. Something delicately floral remains and also forms the heart of the fragrance, joined by a slight sweetness.
After about 1 hour, the asphalt smell disappears, what remains is this beautifully balanced, powdery floral, with a slight sweetness and a hint of spice (probably the clove). I find this heart of the fragrance wonderfully coordinated and extremely successful.
As the fragrance progresses, the flowers become weaker, leaving powderiness and a slight sweetness, probably due to the musk and the cedar wood in the background. The fragrance then becomes skin-deep for me until there is not much left after about 7 hours.

Well, the asphalt accord is of course exciting and gives the fragrance something extraordinary, but it also bothers me a little. Maybe it's a little too strong, or maybe it wasn't needed at all, I'm not quite sure. But the fragrance that remains after the asphalt has faded after about 1 hour is wonderful, fine, powdery, flowery, elegant. The only thing I would wish for is a slightly stronger H/S, it is probably more a fragrance for the wearer himself, and of course you will notice it well when you are physically close, but probably not further.

I haven't had much contact with leather notes so far. I really liked the Tony Iommi Monkey Special, but I wasn't very convinced by Dior Homme Parfum (2014), I liked Dior Homme Intense (without leather) better. Nevertheless, the theme fascinated me and I wanted to devote myself to this fragrance accord.
What better fragrance to explore this theme than the one with "leather" in its name? So I ordered a bottle of Schwarzlose Leder 6 and tested it extensively.

The fragrance

The first scent is a stunner: Incense, leather, somehow dirty-earthy and slightly sour. Is there still a citric note (bergamot) hidden in there?
I don't smell any saffron blossom at first, but I have to admit that I don't know what saffron blossom smells like.
After about 20-30 minutes, the fragrance becomes milder and much more pleasant. The sourness disappears, as does the leather in my opinion, and the incense is joined by a warmer, sweeter resin, probably styrax. The fragrance becomes creamier (perhaps the milk accord with vanilla? I can't really smell milk) and floral notes are added. (Perhaps the saffron blossom I don't know.)
Then spicy notes take the lead. Although not listed, I smell cinnamon and cardamom and a softer leather returns. Here, the fragrance is wonderfully soft and pleasing and stays pretty much like this as it progresses, becoming weaker and more skin-deep.

I have come to the conclusion that I can quite like leather in fragrances and will certainly explore this topic further.

I was looking for a complementary fragrance to Grand Soir, which gave me a taste for amber scents.
When I first tested it in the store, I was a little overwhelmed by the power of patchouli when I sprayed it on, as I had/have a rather ambivalent relationship with patchouli and my nose still has to get used to its smell.
But I took the time to leave the fragrance on my skin for a while, as I always do when I'm planning to buy a perfume.
In the end, the fragrance won me over.

It is very strong as soon as you spray it on. Patchouli and spicy resins hit the nose and these also determine the rest of the fragrance. However, the intensity decreases quite quickly, which I find a bit of a shame, it only radiates moderately after a short time. It then also loses some of its sharpness/spiciness and becomes a little softer, but remains resinous, dry, and a slight powderiness is added, which makes it warm and enveloping. The patchouli recedes into the background, but remains perceptible.

All in all, a wonderful fragrance, the sillage could last a little longer in my opinion, for an oriental amber fragrance.

I ordered the Tony Ionni Monkey Special as a tester and tested it a few times. The fragrance surprised me a little, but in a positive way. I don't find the fragrance coarse, dark, disreputable or particularly leathery.

It starts very intensely, floral-fruity with a slight glue or felt-tip pen note (perhaps the alcoholic note of rum?). With a little imagination, I can recognize the passion fruit mixed with intense floral notes and a sweet rum.
This combination also remains at the heart of the fragrance, but becomes softer as it progresses and is complemented by cinnamon and sweet, warm notes (caramel, vanilla, tonka), which then also determine the soft, warm, gourmand dry down.

For an intense Xerjoff fragrance, the longevity was a little short for me, about 7 hours