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05/06/2020
Unterholz
7 Reviews
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Unterholz
Top Review
There is nothing more dangerous in the world than greatness
The title is a quotation from Voltaire. Detached from the context, it addresses the problem that you can only define something big by ignoring something "smaller".
But one could also understand size as measure/vessel. It is therefore problematic to compare where it is not possible to compare or to measure where it should not be measured, because subjective or ethical values are involved. Nevertheless, measuring and thinking in terms of size (in the scientific sense) is always a driving force for progress and knowledge. A quite double-edged matter therefore.
After a good 4 years of abstinence from perfume, I notice that many users here have the focus on performance ("S/H"). In my opinion, in art (at least I see perfume as craftsmanship) even quieter "plants" should have their justification. And as a secret revolutionary ;-) I would like to dedicate my first comment to a performance weakling who has grown dear to my heart and who I consider absolutely justified. All those who demand murderous silage and durability from every fragrance, may check out at this point without hesitation.
I don't (yet) know the entire portfolio of the Florence perfumer, but I think Villoresi's work, simply entitled "Man", is a great success. From a projection point of view (to use the disgraceful word), it's almost a cologne, a supposedly light men's fragrance with classic elements, and yet it has enough independence (and depth!) to be always recognized. It doesn't make much sense to pray down single notes here, the whole thing is a work of art and at the same time a piece of cultivated toilet culture without any gayness or vanity. Nevertheless, Uomo has enough self-confidence, behind his sympathetic modesty there is character consistency. Endurance is more important than constant staging and attracting attention. This Uomo is the quiet creator in the background, one who not only pursues his personal interests, but is a philanthropist without making this attitude a big deal. This man sees perfume as an object of daily use, for which there is no need for hesitation or hesitation. He expresses polite restraint as well as a healthy awareness of (psycho-)hygiene.
The main theme in Uomo is certainly the lavender, which Apicius in his description combines with swimming pool atmosphere. Lavender can be quite biting, almost animalistic, tart, herbaceous, chlorous, even caustic. Some perfumers classify the work with it as difficult.
Countless classical/historical men's compositions with floral heart notes (from Chypres to Fougères) use this component, so that lavender (in traditional perfumery) could even be described as a typical "chubby" fragrance component? Here is a question mark. While other "flowers" (rose, jasmine, etc.) were once used rather timidly in men's perfumes, lavender was always a building block that could usually be smelled out well. When I think back to my own experiences as a child, I would definitely see lavender fragrance as something "older", not old-fashioned, but mature, in the sense of ripe. From this perspective, you could encounter it in dad's shaving lotions and EdT or in laundry scented bags, also much-tried clichés when it comes to lavender. Which has little to do with the actual scent experience with this typical and unmistakable smell. For me, lavender is a very versatile, complex fragrance (Lavender doesn't exist!) that covers nuances from ethereal freshness to dry-flowery sweetness and its use in perfumes can be all the more varied. A lavender absolute smells completely different from the extract of the (ripe) flowers. Nevertheless, there seems to be a trend in contemporary perfumes to do without the "throw-away" lavender or replace it with chemical substitutes (dihydromyrcenol etc.), which in turn encourages a certain insecurity in dealing with this rather natural scent...? Again, a big theory question mark behind this short digression.
Back to Uomo. He has a little of everything and just as much as it takes. Citrus peels bring a cooling cologne acid, herbs complement & green & calm as well. Like in a good kitchen, the spices are the salt in the soup, they never stick out, but without them something would be missing and they balance the smell, which otherwise would be rather cool. One can hardly speak of a base with Uomo, because due to the relatively weak scent concentration everything seems rather isomorphic, - but not monotonous. Nevertheless, I think I recognize a certain Villoresi base note: a discreet light woodiness (sandalwood and cedar), light dry soap (but not detergent, but real soap) wrapped in a velvety powdery nimbus without sweetness, which makes everything look very elegant.
This Uomo is not tall. But, to say it again with Voltaire: More than ever I realize that you must never measure anything by its apparent size!
But one could also understand size as measure/vessel. It is therefore problematic to compare where it is not possible to compare or to measure where it should not be measured, because subjective or ethical values are involved. Nevertheless, measuring and thinking in terms of size (in the scientific sense) is always a driving force for progress and knowledge. A quite double-edged matter therefore.
After a good 4 years of abstinence from perfume, I notice that many users here have the focus on performance ("S/H"). In my opinion, in art (at least I see perfume as craftsmanship) even quieter "plants" should have their justification. And as a secret revolutionary ;-) I would like to dedicate my first comment to a performance weakling who has grown dear to my heart and who I consider absolutely justified. All those who demand murderous silage and durability from every fragrance, may check out at this point without hesitation.
I don't (yet) know the entire portfolio of the Florence perfumer, but I think Villoresi's work, simply entitled "Man", is a great success. From a projection point of view (to use the disgraceful word), it's almost a cologne, a supposedly light men's fragrance with classic elements, and yet it has enough independence (and depth!) to be always recognized. It doesn't make much sense to pray down single notes here, the whole thing is a work of art and at the same time a piece of cultivated toilet culture without any gayness or vanity. Nevertheless, Uomo has enough self-confidence, behind his sympathetic modesty there is character consistency. Endurance is more important than constant staging and attracting attention. This Uomo is the quiet creator in the background, one who not only pursues his personal interests, but is a philanthropist without making this attitude a big deal. This man sees perfume as an object of daily use, for which there is no need for hesitation or hesitation. He expresses polite restraint as well as a healthy awareness of (psycho-)hygiene.
The main theme in Uomo is certainly the lavender, which Apicius in his description combines with swimming pool atmosphere. Lavender can be quite biting, almost animalistic, tart, herbaceous, chlorous, even caustic. Some perfumers classify the work with it as difficult.
Countless classical/historical men's compositions with floral heart notes (from Chypres to Fougères) use this component, so that lavender (in traditional perfumery) could even be described as a typical "chubby" fragrance component? Here is a question mark. While other "flowers" (rose, jasmine, etc.) were once used rather timidly in men's perfumes, lavender was always a building block that could usually be smelled out well. When I think back to my own experiences as a child, I would definitely see lavender fragrance as something "older", not old-fashioned, but mature, in the sense of ripe. From this perspective, you could encounter it in dad's shaving lotions and EdT or in laundry scented bags, also much-tried clichés when it comes to lavender. Which has little to do with the actual scent experience with this typical and unmistakable smell. For me, lavender is a very versatile, complex fragrance (Lavender doesn't exist!) that covers nuances from ethereal freshness to dry-flowery sweetness and its use in perfumes can be all the more varied. A lavender absolute smells completely different from the extract of the (ripe) flowers. Nevertheless, there seems to be a trend in contemporary perfumes to do without the "throw-away" lavender or replace it with chemical substitutes (dihydromyrcenol etc.), which in turn encourages a certain insecurity in dealing with this rather natural scent...? Again, a big theory question mark behind this short digression.
Back to Uomo. He has a little of everything and just as much as it takes. Citrus peels bring a cooling cologne acid, herbs complement & green & calm as well. Like in a good kitchen, the spices are the salt in the soup, they never stick out, but without them something would be missing and they balance the smell, which otherwise would be rather cool. One can hardly speak of a base with Uomo, because due to the relatively weak scent concentration everything seems rather isomorphic, - but not monotonous. Nevertheless, I think I recognize a certain Villoresi base note: a discreet light woodiness (sandalwood and cedar), light dry soap (but not detergent, but real soap) wrapped in a velvety powdery nimbus without sweetness, which makes everything look very elegant.
This Uomo is not tall. But, to say it again with Voltaire: More than ever I realize that you must never measure anything by its apparent size!
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