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Nothing is more dangerous in the world than greatness
The title is a quote from Voltaire. It addresses, detached from context, the problem that one can only define something great by placing it above something "lesser."
However, one could also understand greatness as a measure/container. Thus, it is problematic to compare where comparison cannot be made or to measure where measurement should not occur, because it concerns subjective or ethical values. Nevertheless, measuring and thinking in sizes (in the scientific sense) is always a driving force for progress and knowledge. A decidedly double-edged matter, then.
After a good 4 years of abstinence from Parfumo, I notice that many users here focus on performance ("S/H"). I believe that in art (at least I see perfume as a craft), even quieter "growths" should have their legitimacy. And as a secret revolutionary ;-) I would like to dedicate my first comment to a performance weakling, who has nonetheless grown dear to my heart and whom I consider absolutely deserving of existence. Anyone who demands killer sillage and longevity from every scent can feel free to check out at this point.
I do not (yet) know the entire portfolio of the Florentine perfumer, but I consider Villoresi's simply titled work "Uomo" to be a great achievement. In terms of projection (to use the scandalous word), it is almost a cologne, a seemingly light men's fragrance with classic elements, yet it has enough individuality (and depth!) to always be recognized. It makes little sense to recite individual notes here; the whole is a work of art and at the same time a piece of cultivated toilet culture without bombast and vanity. Uomo still has enough self-confidence; behind its sympathetic modesty lies character consistency. Endurance is more important than constant staging and standing out. This Uomo is the quiet doer in the background, one who not only pursues his personal interests but is also a friend of humanity, without broadcasting this attitude. This man sees perfume as a utility, for which there is no need for afterthought or consideration. He expresses polite restraint just as much as a healthy awareness of (psycho-)hygiene.
The main theme in Uomo is certainly lavender, which Apicius connects with a swimming pool atmosphere in his description. Lavender can indeed be biting, almost animalistic, bitter, herbal, chlorinated, even caustic. Some perfumers consider working with it to be difficult.
Countless classic/historical men's compositions with floral heart notes (from chypres to fougères) use this building block, so that one could even call lavender (in traditional perfumery) a typically "masculine" scent component? Here is a question mark. While other "flowers" (rose, jasmine, etc.) were once used rather hesitantly in men's perfumes, lavender has always been a component that could usually be easily detected. When I think of my own experiences as a child, I would see lavender scent as something "older," not outdated, but mature, in the sense of being ripe. From this perspective, one encountered it in Dad's aftershaves and EdT or in laundry scent sachets, also much-used clichés when it comes to lavender. This has little to do with the actual scent experience of this typical and unmistakable smell. For me, lavender is a very versatile, complex scent (THERE is no single lavender!) that can cover nuances from ethereal freshness to dry-floral sweetness, and whose use in perfumes can be all the more diverse. A lavender absolute smells completely different from the extract of the (ripe) flowers. Nevertheless, there seems to be a trend in contemporary perfumes to forgo the "party crasher" lavender or to replace it with chemical substitutes (dihydromyrcenol, etc.), which in turn fosters a certain insecurity in dealing with this rather natural scent note...? Again, a big theoretical question mark behind this brief excursion.
Back to Uomo. It has a bit of everything and just as much as is needed. Citrus peels bring a cooling cologne acidity, herbs complement & green & soothe as well. Like in a good kitchen, the spices are somewhat the salt in the soup; they never stand out, but without them, something would be missing, and they balance the scent, which would otherwise tend towards coolness. One can hardly speak of a base in Uomo, as the relatively weak fragrance concentration makes everything appear quite isomorphic, - but not monotonous. I still believe I can recognize a certain Villoresi base tone: a subtle bright woodiness (sandalwood and cedar), a slight dry soapiness (but not detergent, rather real soap) wrapped in a velvety powdery nimbus without sweetness, which makes everything appear very elegant.
This Uomo is not great. But, to quote Voltaire again: More than ever, I see that one must never measure anything by its apparent size!