ErhanSaceros

If this fragrance smelled like today's version back then, then I am speechless. Because as soon as the first two digits of the year of publication are a one and a nine, then I actually want to avoid such fragrances. But the little stones in the bottle aroused my curiosity. And fortunately they did. Even if I don't know if this fragrance smelled as it does today, I was once again taught that clearly older fragrances smell timeless and not always rotten and golden

In the last few months I have repeatedly encountered soapy or clean musk notes. I was tired of that dry, woody, soapy note. She also ruined some scents for me.

My thoughts were rather negative after spraying: Oooh, another oldschool soap and musk scent. After all very smooth and not woody-rough and reduced to the essentials, without the usual, exaggeratedly complex oldschool drone bomb, where you don't know in which direction the fragrance actually wants to go.

But after 20 minutes the tide turns: the oldschool feeling is significantly minimized and a certain, discreet sweetness is added. The soapy musk note is not as woody-dry or pungent as usual, but well dosed, smooth and delicately soapy.

It doesn't take long before you notice something mineral (not aquatic). I don't know if it's actually from those little stones or if I'm just making it up. :)

In addition to the mineral note, there is also a pleasant, resinous note, without really having to think of incense. I am thinking here of the cellar of my deceased grandparents who lived in a village on high mountains. It smelled stony resinous. :)

So here we have a fragrance that has best solved the theme of "soapy musk". Perfectly and harmoniously placed minerals and resins with a subtle sweetness, decorate here the soapy musk pretty well.

In the end it becomes admittedly a little rougher/pungent and the sweet notes have disappeared. And I don't feel that scent smoky. Maybe just a little in the background.

The Sillage is rather in the middle range (5-6 points), while the fragrance loosely lasts 7-8 hours

So I'm positively surprised. By and large it is quite simple and not necessarily the most spectacular fragrance, but if you pay attention to some details, you can really appreciate this fragrance.

So Americans dream of oldschool scents? This fragrance is more what I expected from "A Man's Cologne". Sure, he's not as multi-layered as the "real" oldschoolers. But nevertheless, it still hits in exactly the same, old-fashioned, damp-green-earthly direction. For me personally a No-Go, but I do not want to get too close to the lovers of such fragrances. :)

The scent starts partly Mediterranean: moist leaves and a few citrus fruits surround you. All this in fresh and tart and on something smooth, not too earthy cellary patch stored. Nevertheless - somehow not so friendly, rather strict and not inviting.
It smells just the same for the next few hours, before the fragrance loses its moist aura and somehow goes in a partly plastic, musty-smooth-moss direction. And then the scent is no longer bitter.

Even if the first part of the fragrance is not mine, it had a certain substance and character. After that, he's trivial and meaningless. Like my comment. :o)

The fragrance lasts a good 7 hours on my skin, with a rather moderate, body-hugging sillage (4-5 points).

Unisex? Not to my taste. Rather a masculine scent, which doesn't mean that women aren't allowed to wear it.

To oldschool lovers: If you're looking for an oldschool scent in a somewhat reduced version, you might like it, especially if you like it green and bitter. Otherwise nothing really escapes you here, because (at least) I have already met some similar scents.

Many thanks to Don for the Gravel hiking package. I have complied with his request and have written a comment on this fragrance. That's why I'm sorry if the comment is too short. :o)

My first, tested Roja simply had to be this one, because I'm still looking for the ideal summer scent and because blue flacons are simply the most beautiful for me. Comments, statements, fragrances and the reputation of this brand were promising. Nevertheless, I always kept my expectations low in order to avoid great disappointments. But you saw it coming: I was disappointed.

There are grapefruits which I either classify only citrically or only fruity. Elysium starts with a bitter, but authentic and pleasant note of grapefruit, which is both citrus and fruity and which stands out a little from the other fruits. For me, the whole thing is also beautifully Mediterranean, without the need for green, spicy or even maritime notes. One also notices a kind of wateriness in the scent: freshly cut fruits in a glass carafe filled with water. But here you can already see that the whole thing is only supported by a simple, clean and woody base. Surprisingly simple when you look at the fragrance pyramid. The fragrance is also transparent: it has hardly any weight or intensity. Yet he radiates well without disturbing. One notices because of the transparency and simplicity that not much is to be expected anymore.

After the opening, the scent character of the top note remains to a large extent, without any of the heart note coming to light. But now a kind of "old people smell" is added. This ruins my mediterranean feeling and of course I mark the scent as "for older" from here on. In addition, there is also a transparent, metallic odour. Not the kind of sweaty, glowing, biting, tangible metal stench, but more like the released scent of metal shelves in a supermarket? In any case more pleasant than many other metallic notes. Still, the whole thing doesn't add up for me either. A little later the fruits also become slightly acidic.

And then came the predictable base note, the simplicity of which one could already guess in the top note: woody-clean-musky; thin-transparent.

Well, that's all.

Gentleman? Aventus? Office scent? High-class? Best summer scent? No, I'm afraid I have to disagree. I think the scent is "just" nice. An independent, cosy Sunday scent for the summer. Simply knitted and portable (despite muff and metal). It is not a revelation or a highly complex matter. There is a lack of depth, a strong character and something special. He can only give me a light smile at best. But fortunately, no nervous breakdown. :)

Lately I have noticed that some perfumers develop very similar or almost identical fragrances for different houses/brands. There is Alberto's "Dark Lord" for Kilian, which is very similar to the "Guilty Absolute pour Homme". I also see his works "Light Blue pour Homme Eau Intense" and "Versace pour Homme" at least as stylistically similar. Perfumers clearly leave their own signature in many fragrances. However, I find it amazing and worth mentioning that perfumers simply let older works develop/change a little further and sell them as new perfumes.

We're already at Bleu Turquoise. When I tested it, the scent reminded me of Zadig & Voltaire's "Just Rock! pour Lui" or "This Is Him!".
Right above I clicked on the perfumer of this fragrance, faded out all unisex and women's fragrances and ... lo and behold! He also created the two Zadig & Voltaire fragrances, together with other perfumers, which I just mentioned.

For me this fragrance is about 60% (I'll cut it short here) a "Zadig", which was only extended/refined with a slightly fresh, aquatic-salty and discreetly mossy green note. In comparison, the Turquoise is also significantly less sweet.

On my skin the typical, unsacral, almost unresinous frankincense note, as we know it from the Zadig fragrances, stretches to the end. It is accompanied by salt and pepper and leaves a discreet aquatic-fresh impression. Actually good for the summer, although I wouldn't necessarily wear it at higher temperatures (+27°C), because the scent looks a bit dark thanks to the incense note. The sweet vanilla is not as dominant as with the Zadigs, but nevertheless perceptible (especially at the end) and fits the incense note skilfully.

An exciting fragrance with some contrasts that work surprisingly well. Dark incense and light aquatics; freshness and warmth. So I like this fragrance better than the two Zadigs, even if they are not directly comparable now.

If you like the two Zadig & Voltaire fragrances, you might find a new favourite in this salty-aquatic reinterpretation.

I basically imagine it that way, without wanting to offend anyone:

"PdM has a new fragrance? I'm sure it'll be very good."
After the test: "Hmm, but not so the roar. It doesn't have anything special. But wait a minute. How much did I pay for it? It must be something special. The packaging says Parfums de Marly. So... it's actually something special. Okay. Okay. Yep. Right. It's damn good."

It is both a relief and a disappointment that I did not like this fragrance. Relieved because I now have no more fragrance in my wish list and disappointed that this fragrance really has nothing to offer.

Percival is really overpriced for what he is. Also I don't smell the alleged peculiarity and quality at all. I never thought I'd say this: but I even find Bleu de Chanel much deeper and more complex than this shallow and yawning water

If you ask me, this fragrance could have come from Jean & Len and been in "dm" stores as well. But then it would be hardly noticed and rated much worse.

I do not want to make a large description to this smell also at all, but I give my smell impression independently of the price again.

Bergamot and tangerine? Those citric notes don't show up on me. Instead, the fragrance starts fresh, spicy and slightly mineral. It is not a real aquate, but it already has something slightly showery and damp/wet. It has a minimal green-mossy-woody twist in the background. After the top note, it has a very subtle, bitter sweetness.

Percival is mainly fresh and spicy. Unfortunately, however, the spicy notes are so shy, so compressed, so flattened, so rounded that the fragrance appears very flat, without any depths, corners or edges. The only thing that seems to leave the flat zone a little is a peppery note that tickles the nose slightly and gives a synthetic pungent impression.

After three hours Percival also has "invictus-like" facets, which again negatively influence my scent impression. But this makes the fragrance appear a little more ambry, which enhances the shower gel feeling. I suspect that this is due to the Balsam fir Absolute.

So when such a fragrance is celebrated and there are 7.8 points up there, I am probably mutated into a critical Parfumo-Mongo. Because with all due respect: with many fragrances that have a high rating, but for which I would rate rather low, I could usually understand why a fragrance is so popular. But for the first time I have to be astonished that such a meaningless fragrance, which has zero unique selling points, could convince so many.

Is he sooo bad? No! He's not hurting anybody. But he doesn't help anybody. He's decent, nice and no end of the world. And yet there are so many other great little waters that can be created cheaper and thus have a fragrance with character.

It seems to me that one has inevitably tried to see something special in this fragrance. One has searched and found, even if in the end it seems to be only an illusion.