Crisp Watery Floral
Oh man, this fragrance sounds so cool. I tried it a few years ago, having less of an understanding of what I liked and didn't like. I don't like most ozonic or aquatic fragrances- I know that now.
But L'eau Par was a great disappointment when I tried it. I smelled a little mint, a little sweetness, some pink floral.. And a strange note I thought smelled like the inside of a Ross or Marshall's.
It seems to last quite awhile, but remains close to the skin. I could see this being very cooling and refreshing in warm weather for the type of girl who likes an aquatic fragrance, but for me, I'll give it a pass.
Lilies
I was surprised about the large cacophony of notes listed in Anais Anais. To me this is a thick, slightly sweet, dense lily surrounded by some fresh lily of the valley and hyacinth sidekicks.
Truly, if you ever get a grocery store bouquet with one of those pink Stargazer lilies, I challenge you to wait until evening (they emit stronger scent at night,) and then really put your face in it and inhale deeply. Strong, sweet, dense white floral with a slightly indolic decaying feel- maybe that sounds morose or downright nasty, but it's addictive. Anais Anais strongly reminds me of a real lily, again just with some lily of the valley and hyacinth in there too. From opening to dry down, it's all different facets of lily and it's really pretty.
My review is for a vintage mini bottle.
Hmm...
The opening is fantastic. Thick, dense natural jasmine with a little gardenia crispness in the background, and somehow manages to escape getting too indolic-funky. I think the opening must be where people are making the Giorgio comparisons, because after that I feel like Fleur Burlesque collapses into something quite different.
It gets sweeter, dryer and somewhat woodier- but not sandalwood to my nose like the note list would suggest. More like a little pencil-shaving-y? If I'm honest I don't like the dry down. It actually reminded me of the old Lady Million perfume, the one in the diamond shaped bottle, which I also don't like.
Not sure what to think of this one. Maybe I just had some unrealistic expectations after being so dazzled by the opening.
Springtime
Oh boy, did I used to douse myself in this. Beautiful soft doll heads heliotrope like vanilla, some ylang with a glossy fruit quality in the opening. Soft sandalwood joins the party just as the fruitiness begins to wane leaving the dry down the most beautiful soft plasticky powdery amber vanilla with just a whisper of strawberry shampoo.
It must be easy to go noseblind to. I used to go 4-5 sprays and top them off every few hours. No one ever said anything, I thought this was just a weak fragrance. Then I recently got myself a decant (after years of not smelling it,) and my lord, I don't know what I was thinking. It's just as potent as Casmir, the fragrance it's often compared to.
I'd say in the general Ylang in Gold - Casmir - Butterfly group that all smell like cousins, Butterfly is the most springtime girlish fragrance, Ylang is the more devastating sexy summer evening fragrance, and Casmir is the warmer most ambery resinous fragrance best suited for the cold months. They do all absolutely have a similarity but they are different enough to try them all.
Mocha butter
A warm earthy chocolate patchouli somewhat akin to Angel Muse if you dumped a bunch of coffee beans and a bucket of movie theater popcorn butter on it. There's something very decadent and edible about Rebelle.
Interestingly, I had two bottles of Rebelle. One was a quite old (2013ish) purse spray, the other was the big flute shaped bottle bought new in 2024. The new bottle had a very strong glossy strawberry and much less richness, more playful. The older travel bottle was much more buttery, sweet, earthy, and somehow almost coconut-y. Both versions were delightful.