Hannibal

Easter Monday, April 21, 2025 - a day that stands for hope and resurrection in the Christian world, was today overshadowed by deep sorrow: Pope Francis, born Jorge Mario Bergoglio, has passed away at the age of 88. His death occurred at 7:35 AM, as Cardinal Kevin Farrell reported. Just the day before, Francis, visibly weakened, had given the Easter blessing "Urbi et Orbi" from St. Peter's Square.

In memory of this humble and merciful shepherd, I dedicate to him today a fragrance that captures the spiritual depth and sacred silence of his pontificate like no other: _Quando_rapita_in_estasi_ by UNUM (Filippo Sorcinelli).

Filippo Sorcinelli, the master of sacred fragrance architecture, has created a perfume here that is more than mere pleasant scent. It is a prayer made of molecules, an olfactory Sanctus that transcends space and time - like a candle flickering in the cool twilight of a cathedral.

"When heaven is silent."

Even the first breath of this fragrance is like opening a heavy church door at dawn: incense rises, clear and dignified, accompanied by the delicate freshness of lily of the valley and the earthy warmth of cedarwood. It is as if one is entering the silence of a cathedral, where light falls through stained glass windows and the scent of centuries lingers in the air.

"A fragrance that carries silence."

At the heart of the fragrance unfolds an unexpected combination: the spicy depth of clove meets the gentle sweetness of peach. This connection recalls the balance that Pope Francis always sought - between tradition and renewal, between the rigor of faith and the gentleness of mercy.

"When the world falls silent, the balm speaks."

The base note is a deep, meditative prayer: fir balsam, labdanum, patchouli, vetiver, tonka bean, and vanilla merge into a warm, soothing accord. It is as if one lingers in the silence that remains after the last bell tolls of a mass - a silence that is not empty but filled with peace and hope.

_Quando_rapita_in_estasi_ is more than a fragrance; it is an olfactory requiem, a silent prayer that captures the essence of Pope Francis' life and work. A fragrance that embodies the depth of spirituality and the warmth of humanity - just like the Pope to whom it is dedicated today.

"Heaven has received a shepherd, yet in the earthly air, his scent remains."

There are fragrances that immediately captivate you and become a steadfast companion. Black by Comme des Garçons was my signature scent for many years - a fragrance that has accentuated not only everyday life but also special moments with its unmistakable presence. The dark, smoky aura that Black radiates has fascinated me from the very beginning. Comme des Garçons is known for its avant-garde creations, and Black is nothing less than a masterpiece in this regard. It is a scent that captures the raw power of fire and ash, an embodiment of darkness, but also of warmth and depth.

The first spray transports me directly into a world full of intensity. Black begins with a striking top note of Somali frankincense and Madagascar pepper. The frankincense dominates, but it is not a soft, warm frankincense. Instead, it collides with the sharp, almost biting pepper, creating a feeling of burning embers. The frankincense in Black is dark, almost ethereal - like smoke hovering in the air, heavy and mysterious. The pepper adds a tingling spiciness that tickles the skin and immediately captivates the senses. It is a powerful, almost tempestuous opening that knows no restraint.

Soon, the heart note comes to the forefront, revealing the true essence of this fragrance. Here, licorice, Pepperwood™ (a synthetic fragrance ingredient from Givaudan), birch tar, and leather come together, a combination that, for me, embodies the essence of Black. The licorice is intense and spicy, adding a deep, sweet sharpness reminiscent of burnt confections. At the same time, the birch tar brings a heavy smokiness that makes the fragrance almost animalistic. It is this tar that gives Black its extreme darkness - it smells of burnt wood, of glowing coals that continue to emit their scent long after they have extinguished.

The leather notes complete this smoky depth. It is not a soft, supple leather, but rather the rough, untamed side. You can almost feel the coarseness of the material that lingers in the air, like a worn leather chair in an old bar or aging but sturdy horse tack. The leather gives Black structure and form, making the fragrance tactile and palpable. The Pepperwood™ note enhances the feeling of embers and fire - it is almost as if you find yourself in the midst of a blazing fire of spicy woods and hot leather.

The base of Black perfectly rounds off this fragrance and gives it a lasting depth. Cedarwood and vetiver combine to create an earthy, woody foundation that integrates seamlessly into the smoky composition. The cedarwood imparts a dry, almost dusty note, while the vetiver adds a green, slightly sharp freshness. These base notes are soothing yet rugged at the same time - like the ash that remains after a fire, dark yet full of life.

What makes Black so unique is its ability to unite extremes. It is a fragrance that combines darkness and light, smoke and spices, leather and wood in a dramatic yet balanced interplay. Black is not a scent for every moment - it demands a certain attitude and strength. For me, it has been the olfactory embodiment of confidence and strength for many years, a fragrance that radiates both distance and intimacy.

With Black, Comme des Garçons has created a fragrance that is both masculine and avant-garde. The dark, smoky notes convey a certain wildness and nonconformity that have always fascinated me. And although the scent is intense and heavy, it still carries a certain lightness and freshness, subtly hinted at by the vetiver and citrus nuances. It is a fragrance that unites contradictory qualities - dark yet vibrant, heavy yet sharp, rough yet elegant.

"Black as fire - Black is the olfactory embodiment of embers, smoke, and the earthy power of leather, dancing on the skin in a spicy-woody play of extremes."

As a passionate tea lover, I am always on the lookout for fragrances that reflect my passion for the diverse aromas of the tea world. Having already come to appreciate several scents from Roland Tentunian's Florascent collection, I discovered Olong - a tribute to the refined Oolong tea that translates the finesse and artistry of this traditional beverage into an olfactory composition. This is now the third fragrance from Tentunian's work that I am attempting to describe here, and it enchanted me immediately.

Olong is a fragrance that, like the tea itself, relies on nuances. Tentunian, known for his precise craftsmanship and love for natural raw materials, has once again managed to create a scent that unites lightness, depth, and an unmistakable elegance. It is not a fragrance that loudly draws attention to itself, but rather like a cup of tea - quiet and calm, yet full of character.

"The freshness of the morning meets the tranquility of tea." Even the opening of Olong awakens the senses: A zesty mix of bergamot and lemon fills the air. This top note acts like the first sip of freshly brewed Oolong tea, invigorating yet soothing at the same time. The citrus freshness is clear and pure, but not sharp. Instead, the invigorating power of lemon spreads gently, as if one were stepping into a Japanese tea garden on a cool morning, where the sun is just touching the leaves. The bergamot enhances this freshness and adds a delicate bitter complexity that perfectly complements the elegance of the tea.

After just a few minutes, the true essence of Olong emerges: the heart note dominated by Oolong tea. The tea nuance is unmistakable and at the same time subtle - just like the calm refinement of the tea itself. Here, the lightly fermented, green character of the Oolong meets the floral softness of Osmanthus, which imparts a delicate, almost creamy sweetness to the fragrance. This combination is unique - the earthy, fresh aroma of the tea mingles with the gentle, honeyed note of Osmanthus, creating a play between bitter and sweet elements. It is a harmonious balance that feels like a meditative moment, where time and space stand still for a moment.

Yet Olong does not remain solely anchored in the lightness of tea. The base note adds an earthy depth to the fragrance that perfectly rounds it off. Labdanum and cypress provide a warm, resinous foundation that gives the scent its spicy-woody note. Particularly, the cypress brings a natural, almost woody-herbaceous freshness that perfectly matches the character of the tea. The labdanum, on the other hand, lends the fragrance a certain earthiness that makes it deep and grounded without losing its airy lightness. This base note ensures that Olong is not only fresh and green but also possesses a warm, calming depth that lingers on the skin for a long time.

Olong is a fragrance that captures the world of tea in all its complexity. Like the Oolong tea itself, which carries both green and lightly fermented notes, this scent unites freshness and depth, lightness and earthiness. It is a fragrance for quiet moments, for times of reflection and enjoyment. And as someone who appreciates the art of tea, Olong is a true revelation for me.

Roland Tentunian has once again succeeded in creating a natural and authentic scent composition that has nothing artificial about it yet is incredibly multifaceted. Olong is not just a tribute to tea, but also to the art of perfume itself - a fragrance that seduces the senses without ever being intrusive.

"The green art of tea - a fragrance that translates the harmony and elegance of Oolong tea into an olfactory composition and subtly enchants the senses."

After my first encounter with Florascent and Roland Tentunian's extraordinary art of fragrance, it was only a matter of time before I dedicated myself to another masterpiece from this house. Le Gantier is the second fragrance from Florascent that I have not only tested but also intensely incorporated into my collection. Once again, I am impressed by Tentunian's artisanal precision and the loving dedication he puts into both the composition of the perfume and the artistically designed packaging. As with Quarzazate, one can feel the unmistakable signature of this artist in Le Gantier - pure natural ingredients, the finest balance, and an aesthetic that unites tradition and modernity.

When I first applied Le Gantier, the scent immediately reminded me of the elegance and grace of bygone eras. The name "Le Gantier," which alludes to the tradition of perfuming gloves in the 17th century, unfolds its grace and dignity from the very first notes. In this fragrance, floral lightness and the distinctive presence of leather unite in an extraordinary dance - a composition that has captivated me ever since.

"A hint of sophistication is in the air." Even the first spray of Le Gantier opens with a refreshing burst of bergamot and petitgrain. The citrus notes are zesty and clear, yet they do not come across as exaggerated. Instead, they glide elegantly over the skin, almost as if they want to gently accompany the wearer into the day. The delicate bitterness of the petitgrain adds an interesting depth to the top note, while the bergamot conveys a sense of brightness and purity. This opening is fresh and radiant, yet one already senses that the fragrance has much more to offer.

After a while, the zesty top note fades, and the heart of Le Gantier unfolds. The floral notes of daffodil and violet come to the fore, and here the fragrance begins to reveal its true sophistication. The daffodil, intense and slightly green, adds a subtle depth to the scent, while the violet brings a powdery, almost nostalgic sweetness. These floral notes are graceful yet surprisingly unobtrusive - they cling to the skin without being overpowering. It is a fragrance that is both floral and spicy, a blend of lightness and seriousness that seduces the senses.

But the true secret of Le Gantier reveals itself in the base note. The leather notes come to the forefront, giving the fragrance its earthy, profound presence. Unlike heavy, smoky leather scents, the leather in Le Gantier is elegant and supple, almost like a glove that perfectly conforms to the skin. It is a warm, resinous, and slightly sweet note that imparts an unmistakably classic character to the fragrance. The leather notes are the backbone of this composition and linger on the skin for a long time without ever becoming overwhelming. Instead, they create a soothing depth that provides a velvety base for the floral notes to further unfold.

Le Gantier is a fragrance that is subtle yet compelling. It has none of the heaviness of some leather scents but feels almost like a mysterious companion that remains quietly in the background while always being present. It is a fragrance for those who appreciate elegance and restraint, who love sophistication without demanding attention. The floral, leathery, and resinous notes merge in a kind of harmonious duality that captures both the past and the present.

With Le Gantier, Roland Tentunian once again shows why Florascent is one of my favorite perfume houses. This artwork is an ode to the past, to craftsmanship and tradition, yet it feels modern and relevant in today's time. The love for detail, the careful selection of ingredients, and the unique balance of freshness, sweetness, and depth make this fragrance a true enrichment in my collection.

"The Elegance of the Hidden - a fragrance that unites the timeless beauty of floral and leathery notes while reinterpreting the sensuality of past eras."

A cool late summer evening. A few years ago. Trier, a city that carries history in every fiber of its walls and exudes a deep, muted silence. In the midst of these ancient alleys, I found myself in the perfumery Edith Lücke, a place that lies like a hidden treasure in the historic old town. Among shelves filled with a variety of scents that told stories of distant places and emotions, my gaze fell upon a bottle that stood out with its simple elegance and darkness: ennui_noir by Filippo Sorcinelli. From the very first spray, it became clear to me that this fragrance is something special - an ode to the deep melancholy that lays heavily yet comfortingly upon the soul.

Filippo Sorcinelli, an artist of scents, is known for creating perfumes that embrace darkness without losing their inner beauty. ennui_noir is such a creation, a fragrance that feels like a blurred memory of a long-gone time. Tested in the quiet, serene atmosphere of the perfumery, this scent immediately captivated me - a composition that envelops the longing for emptiness in a spicy-woody veil.

"Melancholy carries the scent of memories." The opening of ennui_noir is characterized by the bittersweet weight of myrtle, which instantly creates a mysterious, almost transcendent mood. The lavender adds a cool, calming freshness to this top note, as if one were wandering through a misty valley, feeling the moisture on the skin. Yet it is not a bright lavender, but rather one that feels dark and meditative, like a whisper of solitude in the twilight. This top note does not come on strong but glides slowly over the skin, as if wanting to numb the senses while gently awakening them.

Once the top note fades, the heart of ennui_noir comes to the forefront. Here, one encounters the delicate heliotrope, whose powdery sweetness brings a light, floral warmth that never becomes too heavy. This gentle sweetness is enveloped by the dry depth of cedarwood, which lends the fragrance an earthy, almost melancholic stability. It is as if the floral notes of heliotrope and the hardness of the wood are wrestling with each other, yet find a perfect harmony in their opposing nature. This heart note is the quiet center of the fragrance - calm, introspective, and yet full of subtle emotions.

In the base note, ennui_noir finally transforms into a dense, earthy dream. The patchouli, deep and earthy, anchors the fragrance in a comforting darkness. It brings an almost primitive weight that is softened by the vanilla. However, the vanilla in ennui_noir is not a typical sweet temptation - it is dark, almost smoky, and gives the fragrance a subtle warmth that comforts amidst the melancholy. This base note lingers on the skin for a long time, and even hours later, it is still felt like a quiet, soothing presence.

ennui_noir is a fragrance that carries the deepest feelings of loneliness and contemplation within it. It is as if one steps into a room illuminated only by the faint light of a candle - warm, comforting, but also filled with an overwhelming darkness. It is a scent that embraces the weight of existence and shapes it into a quiet, bittersweet beauty.

Since I first tested it at Edith Lücke in Trier, ennui_noir has accompanied me time and again. It is a fragrance for quiet days and long nights, for moments of reflection and retreat. Filippo Sorcinelli has created a composition here that reaches deep into the soul while still caressing the senses. With its balanced interplay of spicy, woody, and sweet notes, ennui_noir is a work of art that dresses the darkest emotions in a gentle, seductive perfume.

"The sweet weight of melancholy - a fragrance that reveals the depth of feelings and comforts in its darkness."