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No moss, no action
As with 
Moss+, I wanted to test this fragrance in my search for the ultimate oakmoss soliflore. However, Geza Schön has obviously tried to recreate the scent of oak or tree moss by skillfully blending selected notes. Did he succeed? My verdict on this later.
The fragrance starts with a fresh and spicy bergamot spiced with cardamom, coriander seeds and pink pepper. I perceive the blackcurrant as a subtly tart-fruity hint at best. As the fragrance progresses, it becomes a little woody and bitter; I do not perceive the flowers listed in the heart note in detail. However, there is a delicate floral note that blends in seamlessly. The bitter woodiness then comes to the fore, complemented by the resinousness of myrrh. The synthetic, velvety freshness of ISO-E-Super wafts over everything. At the end of the, in view of the concentration, quite short lasting fragrance, a diffuse, light woodiness with a bitter impact remains. Where is the moss?
My conclusion: Mr. Schön is a master of his craft, no question. But here, in my opinion, he did not quite succeed in his endeavor. Although the fragrance has a certain chypy bitterness, it is far removed from a realistic moss (or lichen) soliflore. The minerality is missing, and the cool freshness and subtle sweetness are simply not there. Don't get me wrong, the fragrance is very beautiful and unique. The combination of notes is quite harmonious and results in a delicate, pleasing fragrance. But you can't have moss without moss. Nothing without moss.
Moss+, I wanted to test this fragrance in my search for the ultimate oakmoss soliflore. However, Geza Schön has obviously tried to recreate the scent of oak or tree moss by skillfully blending selected notes. Did he succeed? My verdict on this later. The fragrance starts with a fresh and spicy bergamot spiced with cardamom, coriander seeds and pink pepper. I perceive the blackcurrant as a subtly tart-fruity hint at best. As the fragrance progresses, it becomes a little woody and bitter; I do not perceive the flowers listed in the heart note in detail. However, there is a delicate floral note that blends in seamlessly. The bitter woodiness then comes to the fore, complemented by the resinousness of myrrh. The synthetic, velvety freshness of ISO-E-Super wafts over everything. At the end of the, in view of the concentration, quite short lasting fragrance, a diffuse, light woodiness with a bitter impact remains. Where is the moss?
My conclusion: Mr. Schön is a master of his craft, no question. But here, in my opinion, he did not quite succeed in his endeavor. Although the fragrance has a certain chypy bitterness, it is far removed from a realistic moss (or lichen) soliflore. The minerality is missing, and the cool freshness and subtle sweetness are simply not there. Don't get me wrong, the fragrance is very beautiful and unique. The combination of notes is quite harmonious and results in a delicate, pleasing fragrance. But you can't have moss without moss. Nothing without moss.
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The church of Saint Neroli
When I smelled 
Popeline Blanche for the first time at Zara while I was testing the current releases, I actually had my sights set on 
Sunrise on the Red Sand Dunes Eau de Parfum. What stuck with me, however, was the impression of this clear, bright neroli from the top note of Popeline Blanche. I still didn't buy it, I just wasn't determined that day. Especially as I had never really liked neroli. 
Echt Kölnisch Wasser Eau de Cologne had been a favorite of my mother's, but I had never been able to get anything out of it. I found it annoying, intrusive and old-fashioned. But that day, Olivia Giacobetti converted me. Suddenly my attitude towards the bitter-fresh orange blossom essence was completely changed. Even the old cologne suddenly smelled wonderful and lifted my spirits as soon as I noticed it. Such missionary skills impress me in a perfume. In the meantime, the bottle has moved into my home and - what can I say? The fragrance convinces me across the board.
The top note combines clear neroli with bright bergamot and has delicate green notes. It is possible that cis-3-hexenol or something similar was used here. The light-heartedness of the citrus notes also has a bitter seriousness - the ambivalence is fascinating. The bitterness of the neroli may have been emphasized here with petitgrain. The fantasy note "cotton" is reminiscent of fresh laundry and builds a sweet and creamy bridge to the clean musk base, which is beautifully balanced but very synthetic. Some may find it pungent, especially at close range. In terms of sillage, however, the fragrance as a whole just makes sense. It reminds me of
Mugler Cologne, but to my mind it is much better done. In addition to the better longevity and sillage, the musk is also much more beautifully realized and more beautifully combined with the citrusy top note through the cotton note. Wearable above all in spring and especially in summer, this fragrance is an enrichment to my collection and has converted me to the Church of St. Neroli.
Popeline Blanche for the first time at Zara while I was testing the current releases, I actually had my sights set on Sunrise on the Red Sand Dunes Eau de Parfum. What stuck with me, however, was the impression of this clear, bright neroli from the top note of Popeline Blanche. I still didn't buy it, I just wasn't determined that day. Especially as I had never really liked neroli. Echt Kölnisch Wasser Eau de Cologne had been a favorite of my mother's, but I had never been able to get anything out of it. I found it annoying, intrusive and old-fashioned. But that day, Olivia Giacobetti converted me. Suddenly my attitude towards the bitter-fresh orange blossom essence was completely changed. Even the old cologne suddenly smelled wonderful and lifted my spirits as soon as I noticed it. Such missionary skills impress me in a perfume. In the meantime, the bottle has moved into my home and - what can I say? The fragrance convinces me across the board. The top note combines clear neroli with bright bergamot and has delicate green notes. It is possible that cis-3-hexenol or something similar was used here. The light-heartedness of the citrus notes also has a bitter seriousness - the ambivalence is fascinating. The bitterness of the neroli may have been emphasized here with petitgrain. The fantasy note "cotton" is reminiscent of fresh laundry and builds a sweet and creamy bridge to the clean musk base, which is beautifully balanced but very synthetic. Some may find it pungent, especially at close range. In terms of sillage, however, the fragrance as a whole just makes sense. It reminds me of
Mugler Cologne, but to my mind it is much better done. In addition to the better longevity and sillage, the musk is also much more beautifully realized and more beautifully combined with the citrusy top note through the cotton note. Wearable above all in spring and especially in summer, this fragrance is an enrichment to my collection and has converted me to the Church of St. Neroli.
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Unobtrusive....
...doesn't have to be a bad thing! Personally, I prefer the scent of CK Free by far over standard aquatics like Cool Water. It feels rounder and more harmonious to me, and perhaps that's why it has a reputation for being boring. Because no one will be taken aback by this fragrance, which is something that can't usually be said about the top-rated scents. It also has a pleasant warmth alongside the aquatic notes, which is rarely found in fragrances of this kind. This, combined with the subtle woody spice and slightly exotic fruitiness, makes CK Free a scent I enjoy wearing on "non-special" occasions.
Edit: I have since realized how much I like juniper. Although I didn't initially pick it out, it could unconsciously be a reason for my spontaneous affection towards CK Free. Now I am aware of it. :-)
Edit: I have since realized how much I like juniper. Although I didn't initially pick it out, it could unconsciously be a reason for my spontaneous affection towards CK Free. Now I am aware of it. :-)
