Itasca89

Among the many modern interpretations of tuberose, perfumers have often tried to strip it of its '80s soliflore excesses. However, I believe a return to the purity of this magical and forbidden flower is refreshing and important - when done with grace and skill.

The opening is divine: creamy, radiant, and bursting with tuberose in its most carnal and thrilling facets. As the initial opulence fades, a softened, milky coffee note emerges, its frothy texture complementing the flower’s creaminess. While I would have loved for the opening’s promises to linger longer, the evolution remains a pleasant and well-crafted journey.

This perfume is in a recognisable olfactory path, recalling fragrances that marked the past decade, but doing so with a more delicate and graceful approach. It cannot be said to be a bad perfume, quite the contrary: the blend of notes is coherent and well realised.

However, those looking for an imperial vanilla will perhaps be disappointed: it does not dominate the composition, just as in Intense Café coffee was not the absolute protagonist.

Although it belongs to an olfactory family that has already said a lot in the past, it has a lightness that makes it more wearable and less intrusive than its predecessors. It may not be a revolution, but neither is it a perfume to be discarded without appeal.

I had been eagerly anticipating this fragrance, both for its notes and for the perfumer behind it - Dominique Ropion.

From the very first spritz, it unveils a stunning interplay of vanilla and just a whisper of leather, enveloped by a cascade of florals that emerge gracefully from the fragrance pyramid. The opening is undeniably inviting, rich, and multidimensional.

However, as it settles - which happens rather quickly - it transforms into a more abstract note. While still pleasant, it loses some of the natural allure that made the initial impression so captivating. The expected suede nuance remains elusive, and what lingers is a soft, sweet vanilla wrapped in a synthesized floral accord.

This fragrance is undoubtedly well-blended; within the chaos suggested by its name, there is a distinct sense of harmony and originality. It is clearly the result of meticulous craftsmanship.

At first, the initial spray bursts with fruity notes, filling me with high expectations. However, soon after, saffron emerges - a note that, I must admit, I personally do not enjoy. Though it does not overpower the composition, its presence remains persistent.

That said, I cannot deny the originality, the artistry, and the sheer quality of this fragrance. It has a clear purpose, an undeniable character, even if its price is quite prohibitive.

I am a true lover of tuberose, and this particular fragrance was missing from my collection. While it doesn’t possess anything even remotely traditionally masculine, I find it to be a perfect textbook example of a young tuberose - delicate, well-balanced, and incredibly comforting. It has an inviting, almost velvety quality that makes it feel like a small indulgence, a moment of pure pleasure.

Interestingly, despite what the fragrance pyramid suggests, it isn’t overwhelmingly sweet. While it may not be the most groundbreaking or original interpretation of tuberose, there’s something undeniably enjoyable about it.