Maravilhas

Maravilhas

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A Gentle Dream
For several weeks now, I have been learning a lot about the scent of natural ingredients and their synthetic equivalents in perfumes, and I am absorbing the information (year of release, perfumer, fragrance components) about a scent with much greater interest and awareness than during the time when I owned my first Eau de Toilettes. May this current phase last a long time; I enjoy it very much.

When I look at the packaging of Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue, I notice that the essential fragrance components and their origins are printed on it. This conveys a certain transparency of information. In some photos, the bottle appears as if it has been painted from the inside. The content does not seem as uniformly connected to the bottle in reality and has an amber-brown color. The stylistic elements of the bottle include the gold Prada label with the four symbolized eight knots of the House of Savoy and the chiseled closure cap in the same color. I really like that. Consistency also arises in a completely different respect: I like to pay attention to the connection to the Chinese horoscope in a fragrance, on one side the design of the bottle and packaging and the scent itself, on the other side the zodiac sign and the transformation phase of the respective year. The fact that the Absolue was released in the Year of the Dragon is aptly reflected in the color of the packaging, a light green, and the gold of the bottle - even if the jade stone has a stronger green.

How do I perceive the scent? The iris root is central to me throughout the entire fragrance journey and defines the overall scent impression. Unique, distinctive, special, yet by no means penetrating or sharp. I believe I can sense that it has spent some time in dark, cool, but nourishing earth. In contact with Mother Earth, it has utilized the ability to gather life force within itself and has helped a part of itself to life and growth, so that it can be nourished by air and sunlight. The essence feels incredibly gentle, balsamic, and can certainly have a balancing and clarifying effect on the mood. It is clearly noticeable to me that the iris root, which determines the fragrance experience, is accompanied by something resinous. We want to trace it back to the resin of the pistachio tree, whose original scent I do not know. The mastic resin may contribute to the fact that the Absolue does not get lost in the overly light, ethereal. It gives it warmth and a down-to-earth structure. A look at the fragrance type pie chart surprises me because powderiness, in my perception, is not as prominent a feature in the Absolue as I have noticed, for example, in Guerlain Habit Rouge, Tom Ford Noir (Eau de Toilette), and of course also in the EdT and EdP versions of Infusion d'Iris.

A few hours after application, something wonderful happens: scent-wise, a switch now flips. While the iris root was dominant in the previous linear, calm fragrance progression, a lovely, not too sweet vanilla note now takes the lead and is assisted by the rudimentarily still present iris to provide olfactory pleasure to its wearer. The base is a dream for my nose. When at this stage the two ingredients merge into a wonderful unity, the scent becomes exceedingly sensual. I would like to be accompanied into sleep by this conclusion from time to time.

In my opinion, the Absolue is a reserved, fine fragrance, which does not detract from its persistence and intensity in the close vicinity of the skin. In my imagination, it is a fragrance for the quiet moments in life, when we can concentrate on the subtly beautiful with all our senses, primarily in the morning or evening, when the acoustic and visual stimuli are subdued. Alone or together with a loved one, with whom we like to be close. A scent that, in my opinion, is suitable for accompanying a mindful attitude. Supporting an aura and time of quiet reflection, perhaps also of clarity and new beginnings. By the way, I prefer to wear it in cooler temperatures due to its pronounced resinousness. The limited edition makes the Absolue exclusive and certainly awakens the desire to possess it, if one likes it. Depending on personal preference for a fragrance direction or intended use, it may of course have one or another weak point attributed to it, such as the moderate sillage, which, in contrast to some citrus 'summer fragrances', is by no means too weak, or the linear fragrance progression until reaching the base note. But those who appreciate the character of the perfume can overlook that. It seems to me that the somewhat quieter fragrances are sometimes done a disservice. Their beauty, with all its fine facets, often only reveals itself upon closer sniffing.

One thing I still cannot fully understand: Why do many users classify the perfume as oriental? Because of the use of vanilla, whose overdosed addition is said to have once led to the classic oriental Shalimar during the production of Jicky? Because of a typically oriental fragrance experience associated with it? In contrast to classic chypres and fougères? Or perhaps for another reason? For me, the Absolue version is a floral specialist, although the vanilla and musk notes used in the base are also part of the oriental fragrance concept.

Especially in comparison to some perfumes classified as men's fragrances that smell extremely sweet, I am surprised by the classification of the Absolue as a purely women's fragrance.

A fine perfume has been created by Daniela Andrier, who hails from Heidelberg and has apparently lived in France since she was 15. I am taken with it. This scent seems to be made for those among us who can enjoy the delicacies of fragrance.

My fragrance impressions in keywords: iris root, floral, earthy, grounding, resinous, moderately powdery, medium sillage, good longevity, linear fragrance progression, natural, gentle, balancing, calming, sensual, unisex
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Igrec, you are my naturally beautiful spring companion
I would also like to share my impressions of Yves Saint Laurent's Y. Its outer packaging is white and simple, yet it appears high-quality, indeed, for me elegant, with its embossed folds at the edges and fine cardboard quality. On it, as well as on the bottle, a golden Y is embossed in fine lines with a narrow side shadow, along with the usual information. The use of the color gold is, for me, not entirely unexpected, and it fits well with the year of the perfume's release. Gold and jade are the colors of the dragon. And 1964 was the year of the wood dragon. The angular overall appearance makes the bottle, with its large golden spray head that also vaguely hints at the outline of a Y, striking and unmistakable.

I perceive the scent as follows: No, at the opening, there is no aldehyde salve to the extent that I have experienced, for example, with N° 5 and Diorella. In the opening, I notice a striking similarity to Mitsouko, with a corresponding scent impression that I would describe as floral-herbaceous, green, natural, fresh, and nuanced fruity. As it develops, Y becomes sweeter and more intimate, while bidding farewell to the hinted fruitiness and otherwise maintaining its scent direction. It seems to me less earthy-herbaceous than the Guerlain classic. Similar to the author of the previous comment, I have pleasant associations with a clearing where wildflowers and grasses are present, which do not smell purely sweet but rather exude the aura of various seasons already experienced, with the accompanying temperature changes and differences in light, as well as the earthy notes in the air. And thus, they noticeably convey that Mother Earth and the natural surroundings are the foundations for their life and growth. The scent image that Y paints in the heart note gradually weakens, extending into the base, where it is complemented by a gentle, increasingly sweet wood-amber note until the end.

There are fragrances that, due to their distinctive, guiding characteristics, suggest a corresponding attitude of their wearer, sometimes even imposing a certain role on them. This can sometimes seem caricatured if the conveyed image does not match one's current state of mind. Y feels different to me. I perceive it as a scent that forms a very harmonious connection with my skin, which leads me to the statement: It fits. And thus, it is in a certain way conducive to my need for authenticity.

As already indicated, Y is a 'quiet' representative with a rather restrained sillage, apart from the opening. The longevity is less than that of the exceptionally enduring Mitsouko; however, there is a sufficiently long phase during which I can sniff the individual beautiful facets of the scent close to the skin. We can also see it this way: it makes it possible to wear another perfume in the evening.

It may have become understandable that I chose Igrec as my signature scent, especially since it was created in my birth year.

My scent impressions in keywords: Floral-green-fresh chypre, natural, wildflowers and grasses, light fruity note (peach), medium sillage, good longevity, unisex.
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