MattRacer

Here we have it, the next remarkable discovery in the field of affordable Arabian fragrances with a truly impressive scent character.
As things stand, the Wafa from Ard Al Zaafaran is obviously still an insider tip. However, I wouldn't be surprised if this Orient Express were to run full steam ahead on the hype train in the near future. In my opinion, it certainly has what it takes.

First of all, you get a thick, high-quality, artistic presentation on the table here, which, however, typically for one or two Arabian fragrance houses, also tends to be kitschy. Golden bling bling and personal taste or not, for twenty euros this level of detailed outer packaging is certainly not to be taken for granted. The slide-open box catches the eye with an artfully curved and ornate -W- on the front, which is enthroned on the cover in a rather elaborate, three-dimensional recess and gives a preview of the contents. The bottle then presents itself beautifully framed in a recess in the inner box. Everything poses in a slightly boastful and extroverted manner amidst the inflationary use of golden color. Nevertheless, objectively speaking, the whole thing looks lovingly designed.
The bottle itself is of the bulky, solid and high-quality variety. It looks solid and stable. The heavy metal cap with decorations on the edge and on the cap completes the high-quality presentation.
The velvety front cover of the bottle is the biggest objective point of criticism here, as it obviously tends to peel off easily at the edge due to the edging in the box. This shows that the cover was stuck on rather clumsily. With the overall bold visual and material presentation, however, this can be overcome.

About the juice itself... What you get here is a perfume that catapults you into the world of oriental fragrances in many ways and reveals a very comprehensive insight into them. First of all, a plum is thrown around your ears (and nose), which comes across like sweetened dried fruit. The fruit sweetness here is very approachable and free of acidity. However, this stone fruit is already quite sugary here.
The whole thing is then skillfully grounded and rounded off by an earthy, woody and slightly smoky base. A distinctly resinous incense gives the fragrance a warm base. At the same time, it makes the fragrance appear quite dark and noble. One could also assume a hint of tobacco as a fragrance note here.
The classic dark, earthy patchouli note underpins the fragrance throughout and literally grounds it. Furthermore, there is always a subtle, creamy vanilla floating in the fragrance veil, which makes it somewhat playful, but above all pleasing.
I detect a subliminal hint of rose, which lends the fragrance something noble and mysterious at the same time. Fortunately, this note is extremely subtle here, to an extent that seems appropriate for a fragrance of this type.
Overall, you can expect a fragrance character that can be briefly described as sweet-spicy-oriental, with a warm, dark and somewhat wicked appearance. The fragrance has character, but will not offend most users and consumers too much. The sweetness here is stylish and well balanced. In my opinion, it gives the fragrance a solid pleasantness, but never comes across as overdriven or squeaky.

The whole thing seems, at least to my nose, to be of a level of quality that you would not expect at this price point. The fragrance is round, soft and the notes are harmoniously interwoven. The fragrance is interesting and not too synthetic. Even 50-60-70 euros would be perfectly ok here. To be honest, an expensive niche house could also bring out this fragrance and it wouldn't attract much negative attention. Hopefully Ard Al Zaafaran isn't reading this. But perhaps the hype train will also ride the supply and demand curve with gusto and do the rest.

Due to its opulence, I would definitely place the fragrance in the cool season. The worst possible use would be at 30 degrees in summer, before a visit to the sauna, to create a negative image so that you can discuss a different use for yourself ;-)

Sex? Due to its resinousness, spiciness and smokiness, I would rather see the fragrance on men. However, this gourmand fruity sweetness paired with the vanilla and the light creaminess of the fragrance is also suitable for a woman, as long as she is strong, wicked or dark enough to want to wrap herself in this mysterious cloud of fragrance. In any case, I find the idea of perceiving the fragrance on a woman quite exciting.

Pleasantness? Definitely! My wife really liked the fragrance and approached me about it on her own initiative, which doesn't happen too often due to her only rudimentary affinity for perfume.
Longevity and sillage are not on the beast-fashion side, but they are good. I get about 6-7 hours of longevity here and a perceptible sillage for 3-4-5 hours.
Other Arabian fragrances can do this a little better, but I think the level of strength here is quite appropriate as it suits the warm, chic, classy and mysterious scent. It doesn't scream "Here I am!" from meters away, but knows how to seduce those around it.

For me, associations and comparisons with other fragrances of the same species arise, for example, in the direction of Parfums de Marly Carlisle, even if this one "crackles" a nuance more in the air and seems a little more multi-faceted. My nose has not yet been able to smell the Black Phantom mentioned here, which is why I cannot say anything about its comparability. What did come to mind, however, was the memory of an Argos - Triumph of Bacchus. The latter is of course a whole lot more artistic, harmonious and "expensive", and comes with a cool, playful alcohol note. However, I couldn't avoid being confronted with this comparison. Where Bacchus tends to triumph with peach, here the related plum takes the place of stone fruit. In terms of spiciness, tobacco/smoke, vanilla and basic "orientalism", however, the fragrances follow similar paths.

In this sense: Wafa is definitely worth a test for fans of this fragrance! I would describe it as an absolute price-performance hit, which has positively surprised in many ways, and the quality, both the outer packaging and the fragrance itself, is in the upper league.

So here it is, the little insider tip, especially for fans of the old discontinued Gucci pour homme, whose spirit has been brought back to life here by Michel Almairac. The fragrance ekes out its thoroughly quiet existence in the shadow of its better-known brother "Bentley for men Intense", revealing its pleasant essence only to those who delve a little deeper into the matter, who look beyond the usual influencer Top 10 lists.

While the Intense is rather loud and flashy overall, the Absolute is the much quieter, more introverted representative of this brand's gentlemanly fragrances.

The fragrance reveals its spirit right from the opening. It is primarily woody. The associations with freshly sharpened pencils already noted here are clearly recognizable.
Anyone looking for sweetness in fragrances is out of place here and should rather try their luck with the Intense. The Absolute has such a dry effect that it feels like it can also rid rooms of humidity. The woody notes seem as if the material had been left to dry for 10 years in the Gobi desert before being processed. Whereas in other fragrances the woody note is rather subtle, here you get the squared timber rattling against your face with full force: It's not a board, it's a DIY store!
In addition, the note "Papyrus" makes perfect sense here and seems comprehensible. It goes harmoniously hand in hand with the woodiness and evokes associations with old scrolls, libraries and the smell of time-honored fat books.
The fragrance also exudes a certain degree of resinousness and earthiness. The idea of trudging through a dense forest in (dry) summer goes hand in hand with the fragrance. Some dust of dry, loosened earth is in the air, the trees around you give off a slightly resinous scent.
Frankincense lends the fragrance even more character, giving it a hint of pleasant, never scratchy smokiness, but at the same time calming and grounding the composition even further. I can confirm the sacred mood that the fragrance is able to evoke as a result.
To my nose, pepper or ginger are only very subtly perceptible at best. Here too, if ginger, then it has been cupboard-dried for 3 years and is no longer oily and ethereal.
The pepper also plays second fiddle and comes across as very gentle, almost muted, far from triggering a spicebomb-like attack of spice.

Overall, we have a very calm, discreet representative of his guild here, who always comes across as confident, distinguished and unobtrusive.
Even though the fragrance is clearly different, the Absolute somehow reminds me of an Encre Noir, as it shares certain characteristics with it. The accentuated woodiness, paired with fragrance notes that evoke memories of nature and/or the earth, the similar direction of mood in which the fragrances are used or which they create...

Unfortunately, and this brings us to the biggest point of criticism of the fragrance, the longevity and sillage also fit into the rather chic, confident and calm overall picture of this creation. If the rather subtle aura could still be seen as something positive and very appropriate for the occasion, the durability remains somewhat poor. In figures, it is perceptible on my skin for about 4 hours, of which only 2-3 form a really noteworthy sillage. The longevity is therefore at the level of an average fresh fragrance. Given the underlying DNA here, I would have liked a little more.
Be that as it may. Due to the great pricing, which the luxury car brand is showing here, over-spraying/refreshing is no drama. Especially as the really very chic and classy-looking black bottle, which simply comes across as solid, mechanical, industrial and masculine, looks so solid that you won't be scared to death even if you take it with you.

I see the fragrance as suitable for all sorts of occasions, apart from a party at the beach bar, where it could come across as a strange buzzkill. From fall to spring, work, leisure, official occasions - go for it. I would also avoid it in summer when the temperatures are really warm. Not because it could be overwhelming, but rather because of the rather matter-of-fact, calm, possibly serious mood it can create.
A fragrance for gentlemen or those who want to become gentlemen, for eloquent men of the world who prefer a stylish fragrance to a very loud one, who want to make a subtle but elegant statement.

I recently tested this fragrance after it initially remained under my radar for a very long time. I don't think I'm the only one here. But it was precisely this relatively quiet existence within the perfume bubble, combined with what I think is an extremely remarkable and equally exciting olfactory performance, that prompted me to say a few more words about the fragrance.

To my nose, this is a fundamentally classic spicy-oriental fragrance that has some similarities to other well-known candidates, but also comes with an interesting clean, soapy twist. This wonderfully integrated sophistication is also familiar from other Guerlain fragrances. However, it is particularly interesting here.

At first, I smell a typical but always high-quality and elegant plum-tobacco-cinnamon fragrance, which is subtly underlined by a little pepper and leather. If the fragrance were a red wine, it would not be a juicy, sweet one, but rather a mature and dry drop from the oak barrel, even if there is a healthy amount of sweetness. The fruit-tobacco combination is therefore not squeaky here, but wonderfully mature and calm.
A light but always perceptible clean, soapy freshness wafts in the background right from the start, giving the fragrance its individuality and also increasing its versatility.

Guerlain's almond is present, but not nearly as present as in the well-known l'homme ideal edp, which opens almost cherry-like, marzipan-like or even amaretto-like.
Here it seems rather shy, as if you were sniffing into a bag of almonds still in their shell.
The leather here is more brown and soft, not black and stained.
I perceive the fragrance's progression as relatively linear. Of course, the fresh parts become less as it progresses, where leather, tobacco and wood linger longer. However, the basic character remains until the end.

In terms of the performance of this fragrance, we are typically Guerlain in the midfield.
Overall, the fragrance is rather sophisticated and chic. Its rather restrained sillage also matches this. Generally speaking, despite the high-quality olfactory grace, you have to spray on more than with other fragrances in order to create a noteworthy cloud of scent. Where 3 sprays are easily enough with other oriental fragrances to achieve an ideal mixture of perceptibility without penetrating, 6 sprays are easily required here.
The durability of around 5-6 hours is perfectly fine, even if other fragrances from this area can do more. The l'homme ideal extrem is more notable for its quality.

In short, I would say that the fragrance is unjustly overshadowed by its more successful brother, l'homme ideal edp. I find this one even more individual, with the same level of pleasantness and more rough edges, simply "better" overall for my nose, even if I appreciate the edp just as much.

To draw comparisons (leaving aside the basically similar homme ideal edp): in nuances, Ideal Extrême reminds me of a Parfums de Marly Herod, other characteristics of a Carlisle from the same house, or an Ard Al Zaafaran Wafa.
Nevertheless, this one remains unique in its own way, and I warmly recommend it to you at this point.

His image as a party animal still precedes him in a damaging way. Despite his now objectively high qualifications and his outstanding maturity test, which he was allowed to take with Maestro Pescheux, he is still unjustifiably reviled as a loud braggart due to his extroverted origins, which brought him his fame.
However, if you take the trouble to put the party stories from back then to rest and look at him with an open mind, a new picture emerges that is characterized by a truly stylish, appropriate and suave appearance.

Fun and metaphors aside, off to the fragrance...
Versace Eros Parfum still clearly shows its roots. However, Pescheux has succeeded in creating a truly harmonious fragrance in my opinion. It still shows the old cheeky attitude, but now it is much rounder and softer.
Where the Eros EDT is very harsh and loud, the perfume is a decisive nuance softer, which lifts the fragrance into a new hemisphere of versatility.

The mint is much more restrained here, the synthetic apple is apparently completely absent, replaced here by relatively mild citrus fruits. This ensures that the brute loud opening of the EdT comes across a perfect little bit milder here.
The perfume is undoubtedly still sweet. The fruits of the opening and the ever-present vanilla show what kind of spirit this fragrance is. However, the level of sweetness here has been toned down considerably compared to the EdT and comes across as softer.
Lemon and various herbs, whereby the sage and lavender listed here are easily recognizable from the pure impression, give the fragrance a certain freshness but also a pleasant spiciness. The sage note lends the fragrance a certain modernity and gives it a contemporary feel.

In a nutshell, the fragrance character can be described as fresh, sweet and fruity.
Overall, the fragrance has a rounded effect and the notes are harmoniously interwoven without being obscured beyond recognition.

Basically, without smelling the same, this fragrance reminds me of a Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme in its style, direction and range of use as well as its basic character. And at this point I have to take up the cudgels for the Italian: The Versace comes across just as harmonious and high-quality, but has far more rough edges than the overrated Frenchman, which has been smoothed out beyond recognition, simply smells like Berlin bales on fresh laundry, and also turns out to be far more short-winded compared to the Italian.

The performance of the fragrance is solid. the fragrance remains easily perceptible for 4-6 hours. Fortunately, the sillage is not as thermonuclear as that of the EdT, but it is more constant and the perfume seems a little more long-lasting overall. The whole thing fits into what I consider to be the stylish overall picture of a pleasantly mature, high-quality fragrance that does not disregard its roots, but has moved with the times in a pleasant way. I see Eros Parfum as an ultra-versatile fragrance that would not look out of place at any time of year or in any environment.

There is not much to say about the cult bottle, the Medusa bottle is an artistic and creative feast for the eyes despite its undeniable kitsch factor.

The perfume seems to have passed many people by who think they have already experienced everything with the EdT or EdP. As a result, the perfume may become a small insider tip, which, due to its bad reputation in the past, will only be accessible to a truly unbiased clientele.

In fact, I would have hoped for even MORE maturity, a clear edge and differentiation from the EdT, but overall Pescheux has managed to make Eros significantly more valuable here without betraying its basic DNA.

Sometimes this YouTube influencer thing can be really enriching and broaden your horizons. For example, I became aware of this fragrance through the red-haired Kai, who is well known in the scene, and a simple short clip, which I am very happy about. Luckily, when I look at the rating figures here, the hype train, which is often so full of hype, just missed the fragrance, or only took it one stop. As a result, it still has enough of a rarity character, and noticing it on another individual in the wild outside a fragrance fair is like hitting the jackpot.

As for the fragrance itself, to mention the tiresome YouTube again, Scent Jay, who deserves more attention, has found the right words. "The scent pushed me off my chair".

I get a perfectly interwoven mix of the fragrance notes listed here. Blackberry, raspberry, incense, cinnamon and oud are the dominant components for my nose. The fruit notes have been stripped of their prickly acidity and are more like perfectly processed dried fruits that present themselves as round, soft and velvety. The sweetness is present but never overpowering. In my opinion, the perfect balance of mass appeal and olfactory harmony has been found here.

The oud note interwoven here is subtle and therefore pleasing. The cowshed gives way to a cozy, atmospheric attic made of high-quality wood, in a time-honored villa. This association comes to mind with the wood/oud note used here.

The cinnamon and pepper make the fragrance spicy without being overpowering.
Where a Spicebomb Extreme in the opening can rather lead to fits of nausea (don't get me wrong - in my opinion, Viktor&Rolf's outstanding fragrance), this one is rather cozy and gentle in terms of spiciness, almost warming and grounding.

The incense in combination with the oud and berry fruits gives the fragrance a pleasant degree of smokiness and leatheriness, which greatly enhances its depth.
The smoke is not scratchy but sublime, the leather note for me like finely embalmed precious suede.
Where other raspberry oud leather fragrances ala Widian London to Tuscan Leather tend to quote shiny black Domina smooth leather, Infusion Velour goes the way of the expensive brown horse saddle.

All in all, a heavy yet pleasing mixture that has been created here.

Applicability? I see the fragrance as quite versatile, applied discreetly even for the office, up to a party, date or cozy at home, if you simply want to create a pleasant aura around you through a great fragrance experience. However, I would place it more in the cool season of fall to winter.
I think it is such a well-rounded fragrance that it is definitely unisex. I see a tendency here towards masculine, but a self-confident lady, whether stylish, bossy, edgy, sexy or wicked, can apply this fragrance just as perfectly without it seeming even slightly out of place.

In terms of performance, I would place the fragrance in the upper mid-range. 6-7 hours of perceptibility, of which the first 3-4 form a stylishly clear sillage (3 sprays).

Is it worth the exorbitant price? Everyone has to decide for themselves.
I personally believe that no fragrance, no matter how high quality it is advertised, has to be so expensive.

I am therefore pleased with Ojar's policy, which I hope will serve as a model for many other niche houses, of also offering fragrances in attractive small bottles. That way you don't become poor straight away, and the 15ml will easily last for several years if you own 10 20 30 fragrances or more, unless you tend to use it every day because of the beauty of this olfactory presentation. I save it for special days and occasions. Because I don't want to be pushed off my chair by a fragrance every day