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MiaSma 3 years ago
days of the future past
Thierry Mugler has left a permanent mark in both,the couture and the perfume industry. Idiosyncratically sumptuous aesthetics, bitch-fatale attitude, eye catching fashion narrative. The same boldness in their backbone, with elements of elegance, opulence and campiness are omnipresent in his mygler circle fragrance universe.
Almost all his perfumes are ultra successful in sales and the way they influenced pop culture/ fragrance world upon their release and specifically because of this , they have created a mass appealing effect which i find reductive...
In 2008, the Miroir-Miroir collection was introduced as a second attempt of a more artistic, aimed towards clients maybe of a more acquired taste profile.4 years later Moiroir des Majestes made its debut. The kitch/ plasticie mirror-oid box fells like a bad joke...Then the bottle is the exact opposite with it's vectoral design, its Guerlainesque calligraphy containing a dark ambery liquid.
This is a perfume of great importance to the house. First of all, it doesn't fill like a Mugler creation. It is more elevated than everything I've tested from the entire Mugler universe, thous far.I ve been wearing this almost all week, everyday and I ve know it since I started using it, which is 2020, 12 years after its release.
It has a very harsh, but bearable and i have to admit very likable opening.It is also a bit disorientating because of a very pronounced retro vibe it exudes, grabbing and throwing you back in time...like a tamed younger sister of the Elizabeth Taylor's perfume collection...During the first 5 minutes i get a tremendous dose of labdanum (the amber accord from the base) that quickly rests into the back.Then the next couple of hours an indolic tango between the prominent bright orange blossom and the supporting green jasmine is all that happens, but it is so privately narcotic. Then it all turns into amber, a resinous myrrh like amber.
It is lovely, long lasting with medium sillage. A show-stopper for the wearer, an intimate show that is not intended for an audience....
I cannot forget to mention that in the beginning it conjured diabolical fractions of La Couche du Diable SL
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MiaSma 4 years ago 2
Tsaric Splendor
I read that another reviewer found that this mind-bending lustrous concoction , starts off like the tigress-natured "Obsession" CK. Only to transform into a primordial Amber, may I add.
The depths of Hades, of the original edition , "Amber Sultan" Serge Lutens, the Ancients invoking "Akkad" Lubin and animalic nature "Labdanum18" LeLabo, have a new star amongst their RADIANT constellation.
The clear alcoholic opening is followed by a stellar explosion of amber. So bright that it's almost blinding!
There are constant micro bursts of cinnamon, spices, incense and heavy labdanum/dark vanilla.
The sky, in which "Ambre Russe" radiates is crystalline cold, but as soon as it touches ones warm skin, it starts vibrating, summoning Helios, himself, in his chariot of fire. Burning across the sky, smokeless.
Unfortunately I don't get any birch, leather.
The sillage is big and the longevity even bigger.
I think for now I've found my extrovert-solar-Amber universe.
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MiaSma 4 years ago
censer of senses
This was given to me as a gift by someone i love without me testing/sampling it before i received it. It is one of my favorite perfumes, if not my most favorite.
The "FLORIENTAL" constellation has incense drenched in labdanum as its gravitational force and all other notes are satellites orbiting around them.
The initial plum note has a honey/gourmandish trail that is omnipresent through out the life of the constellation. Another satellite would be the sandalwood that gives a powdery hint with balsamic facets. I don’t really perceive the pepper note, but i think i get an aromatic feel...
The beauty of the "FLORIENTAL" constellation is that although it is fully artificial and monodimensional , it's almost innovative and surprisingly natural-felling.
I am surprised that it is so under-rated by us.
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MiaSma 4 years ago
hmmmm next!
I tried both Valentino Noir absolu Musc essence and oud essence today.
On the blotter strip, Musc essence was sooo shockingly lacking any fragrance.It was more like nuances from really really far away, so i didn't spray it on me.
On the other hand Oud essence, was the exact opposite, so i did 1 spray on my wrist.I first got a proper fecal punch, like true oud oils/ proper oud accords have with a saffron presence and was very happy with it. then 1/2 hour later it was almost entirely gone, what wafted was a faint cacao/labdanum(? not 100% sure) with a sugary/ buttery/ confectionery "charge".
Overall, nothing special, not great sillage, terrible longevity.The actual fragrance is quite pleasing to me but nothing that hasn't been fashioned before.I can find more interesting perfumes around that price tag(148 euro Athens/Greece)
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MiaSma 4 years ago 1
first impression
(this is my first split ever so i was quite excited to receive and try this perfume.on top of that, i've read the reviews and articles in circulating its release.lastly this house to me its more than a house its a cult, the cult of Serge)

Upon initial spray, on the blotter, i am hit by a tarry/ synthetic oud accord that is irritating my olfactory receptors immensely. thankfully almost immediately that accord trail transforms into something very familiar, but elusive enough so that i cannot recognize it. 2 hours later it smells like dry coca-cola residue at the bottom of glass(to me that is a whirlpool of : myrrh, ylang-ylang + cacao butter +marzipan). 4 hours later (6 after first spray) it is very linear, as it smells almost the same but with less vigor...

Upon initial application, on skin, i got the same almost uncomfortable sensory attack, that i get from the dry-cleaners vents(if that makes sense)....again this dissipates almost instantly (hallelujah!!) and the familiar elusive accord appears, only this time i understand what i am presented with...it's an AMBRE SULTAN concentrate that shines bright into its demise a couple of hours later.along its AMBER SULTAN life i can sense a strong myrrh tincture/ cistus concrete with that coca-cola apozem trail and musks. 2 hours later(4 after application on skin) i can only detect emotions, not actual notes fruity, wet soil, lukewarm (/NOT HOT). after that its fire is out.

My thoughts about this balsamic warm ambery dense elixir are mostly positive, as i did enjoy this perfume and will wear it again definitely.Unfortunately, i have to say that it didn't live up to my expectations(to be honest as i said in the beginning marketing and anticipation of novelties may, eventually, have an inversely proportional effect). The perfume itself is a good offer, but nothing new(and i was expecting ground-breaking, reminiscent of Serge old powerhouses). On top of that it is very linear, which i do not mind at all (coming to thing about it i personally prefer concoctions that don't evolve much :-/ :-D). But i find the lack of longevity a sin, not a pity, but a sin on the houses behalf.With these ingredients (i am referring to the resins and musks and balsams) know for their fixative properties i don't understand/ accept why it is completely gone after 4-4,5 hours....It's not like we are talking about light and elusive perfumes of the likes of Nuit de Cellophane , Daim Blond . This is unacceptable for me and hence i wont be purchasing a full bottle.I hope they re-focus on their amazing, historical brand and provide in the future something that will transfix us again. ;-)

cult member 666

PS: it just hit me that the name of the perfume might not be very appropriate and due to its AMBRE SULTAN component i've come up with : Myrrh Amir/ Emir :-D:-P
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