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The Brutal Work of Art from the Orient
With a fragrance pyramid that surpasses even the works of houses like Roja, it becomes increasingly difficult to interpret the scent correctly. However, the scope for interpretation is somewhat broadened, allowing for a more abstract approach.
This powerhouse is a true Oriental slap in the face. A painting created with dark yet rich oil paints. A desert with dry air under a violet night sky. Or perhaps the palace of an oil sheikh... in Dubai...
If the category of the Orient were a fragrance, then this would absolutely be Dubai - Turath. Hardly any other scent reflects this character so well. It is the absolute center of all fragrance directions that together bring the Middle Eastern nuance to life.
An extremely multifaceted work that brings nuances from every spectrum. Its character is marked by notes that smell not only delicious but also of a lot of money. Fitting for its inspiration. It certainly deserves its name.
On top of that, its performance is beyond good and evil. If you spray it, you will be noticed without mercy. Admittedly, it does not have the power of an attar, but that would probably be too much and not necessary. Nevertheless, one can expect performance for the money here. Very strong.
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Well-Groomed Silver Bar
A solid flanker of the well-known 1 Million. No completely new DNA. No overdosed synthetic notes. And no maximum crowd-pleasing, as is usually the case with fragrances that have more flankers than distinct scents. This one has its reason for existence.
Its DNA indeed has something of the 1 Million, but I find this one a bit more refined and understated. It feels very modern, and with its notes, it is almost a delight for the senses.
Moreover, there is a fantastic hazelnut-honey combination that has integrated very delicately into its modern soul. This makes it just a little gourmand, which I truly appreciate. I cannot stand overly strong gourmand notes at all. One doesn’t necessarily have to smell like a dessert.
Executed cleanly with Lucky. On top of that, the sweetness is not overly present. It fits perfectly into the refined direction this fragrance aims for. Overall, I am very satisfied with it.
Sure, the performance is not exceptional, but it suits a fragrance that is easily affordable. The bottle is, of course, a matter of taste.
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Fresh Laundry in the Spring Breeze
Another clean scent from Francis Kurkdjian. There is indeed a wide selection in this segment, but it also takes some time to decide on the right fragrance. After all, it would be counterproductive to own too many scents that are quite similar in general. So what makes this one so special?
This fragrance feels like a kind of hybrid between 724 and Petit Matin. As if you mixed that incredible fresh laundry nuance from 724 with the slightly citrus-tinged fabric softener facet from Petit Matin. Add a touch of spring flowers: the result is this scent.
Strangely enough, I find that it doesn’t have much in common with Aqua Universalis. Probably because it simply smells a bit duller. This almost extreme focus on purity that Aqua Universalis has is somewhat set aside here.
Its opening is thoroughly citrusy, yet by no means sharp. It feels very tamed and inviting. Its heart is almost creamy in nature, with its soft jasmine and delicate orange blossom. Creamy in the sense of a fabric softener scent, of course. It has a clearly recognizable lily of the valley note that can be perceived right from the start.
Overall, it feels very harmonious and cohesive. A very elegant, modern DNA. However, I personally lack a suitable reason to choose this fragrance. The DNA of 724 appeals to me much more.
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A worthy hybrid of two stars
Two absolute names in the perfume world, merged into one bottle. A very magnificent idea for a brand known for its dupes. That one day Aventus or BR540 would be involved was to be expected. But both at the same time?
In this fragrance, the citrus-fruity pineapple and apple DNA of Aventus takes the lead. A very strong punch in the face from these two scent notes that evokes the impression of a beast mode Aventus.
After a while, you notice a slight shift towards BR540. First, light floral notes emerge, particularly the jasmine. I admit I am not a fan of this phase. The jasmine, combined with the still strongly present citrus, has a slightly "musty" quality for me.
Nevertheless. Eventually, even the strongest citrus note fades and diminishes. Then you finally recognize the typical BR540 DNA. However, the BR540 part is not cloned as solidly as the Aventus part. This is absolutely understandable, as several notes from the opening still co-exist and mix in the fragrance.
It then becomes correspondingly noticeable that you are not exactly wearing the real BR540. Especially since the important Hedione has already significantly faded in the drydown, because it is simply a top note. Without the strong presence of Hedione, a large part of BR540 is missing.
I am absolutely not a fan of dupes, but if it is a hybrid of two fragrances, then one can somewhat consider it as an original work with a squinted eye. After all, it surely required a long and elaborate process to harmonize both fragrances.
Overall, it is a solid fragrance with good sillage and for the price, you certainly get something very good delivered.
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And I am Breathless without You
Gentleman's finest. A classic, spicy seduction, dressed in a black tuxedo, with a warm, sensitive heart. With a healthy dose of self-confidence, the wearer of this fragrance is enveloped.
Whenever I smell this fragrance, I can't help but think of a song that almost smells like this fragrance to me: Breathless by Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds. It’s that simple, sensitive way of charmingly emphasizing words on a cheerful yet elegant melody. Naturally fitting with the lyrics.
Its spicy note is particularly associated with the classic direction. Through and through, it smells like a fragrance that esteemed gentlemen wore in the 19th century.
Despite the fact that no woody notes are listed, it also has nuances of somewhat older wood. A bit dusty. There is also a slight floral side that is perceptible. While I don't smell the lily of the valley at all, the rose is present, although only after some time.
Those who love classic fragrances and are particularly looking for something suitable for an upscale dress style will find this to be just right. Its sillage also leaves nothing to be desired.