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What does a label cost?
In this case, the "permission" for a woman (or anyone of any gender) to wear a "men's fragrance" comes at a high price. Similar options have long existed in the men's fragrance department.
But one has to be brave enough as a non-man to spray on such a scent. But do you even smell a difference after spraying? The label doesn’t evaporate with it. Those who dare to reach for "Cool Water" and its clones can save a lot.
As for the scent itself, there isn't much to say: a citrusy top note, along with a hefty scoop of Calone, ensuring that the aquatic aspect is definitely not lacking. All laid out on a woody base, garnished with a bit of sweetness. Certainly not poorly made, but far from unique.
A formulation that already exists by the hundreds - just in the men's section.
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The Cool Breeze Over the Aare
As can be inferred from the statements, this is an unconventional scent. I wanted to know more and ordered a fresh sample directly from the manufacturer.
According to the perfumer, the perfume contains "a drop" of distilled Aare water. A nice gimmick. Additionally, it is said to contain an "overdose" of Hedione.
Let's see what has come of it:
Two sprays on the arm, two on the front of the T-shirt.
Right after spraying, a light, green-fresh scent wafts into my nose, corresponding to the described fragrance notes. When I smell the T-shirt, the scent is already gone. Huh? On the arm, it disappears just as quickly. Can that be?
I ponder a bit more and smell my arm again: Yes, something is still happening. The longer it sits, the stronger the scent becomes: bright, green, enchanting, and light. More of an aura than a distinctly noticeable scent cloud. But anyone who claims there is "nothing" is also mistaken.
However, there is definitely nothing left to smell on the clothes. The scent seems to require body heat or skin contact to remain perceptible.
Does the Aare smell like this? Partially, yes, at least regarding the ozonic-green notes. It is less floral, though. Perhaps in spring, when the bushes along the Aare bloom.
I like the scent, but it behaves very oddly and is extremely close to the skin. As a scent study of the Aare River, it is certainly well executed, but as a perfume, it is too subtle. I say this as someone who usually appreciates close-to-skin fragrances very much.
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Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Pistacchio?
This wonderful fragrance could have been called that. For reasons unknown to me, Guerlain has placed it in the endless series of LPRN flankers. I am sure that as "Allegoria," this marvelous scent would not have faded away so quickly. Now it doesn’t quite fit with the cherry-almond mother and disappoints expectations.
Because actually, this is a delicate, beautiful little thing that the mother has in her family: I am greeted by fresh, zesty bergamot, followed by grassy-green notes that accompany me into the shadows onto a soft bed of fluffy pistachio-tonka clouds. Light, delicate, and ethereal is she, the daughter. Like a wildflower bouquet with bitter grass and herbs. Not ladylike and cosmopolitan, but with a rough freshness. Complex and not without demands.
I don’t find it particularly sweet and only slightly almondy. The light bitter notes run like a red thread through the scent's development. In my nose, it’s more of a green chypre. Definitely unisex. Very refreshing and great for summer.
This fragrance is especially recommended for lovers of classic Guerlains.
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The Five-Minute Peach with Patchouli Depth
Jil Sander - also known as the "Queen of Less" - stays true to her motto with this fragrance: clear, simple, straightforward.
In the first minutes after spraying, I am greeted by a light peach. This is very true to nature - so there's no need to fear an iced tea note. The rose makes its appearance right after and takes the peach off the stage. Now the patchouli can finally take center stage. It is heavy, lush, spicy, and has a slightly sour-bitter undertone. I do not encounter an earthy note.
The fragrance is close to the skin and subtle, very balanced, and despite its richness, not at all overpowering. You can wear it with a clear conscience even in warm temperatures, as it can be dosed well.
The longevity at early summer temperatures is about 6 hours for me (one spray on the forearm).
According to the manufacturer's advertising statements on social media, this is supposed to be a chypre. Strictly speaking, that is correct: the fragrance does contain peach in the top note and patchouli in the base note. However, there is no clear "edge" or "strictness" here. There is no moss included.
Anyone looking for a wearable alternative to the usual aquatic and citrus fragrances in summer will find this - especially for a stylish evening appearance - quite satisfying.
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Green Cool Sharpness
As a lover of green scents, I had to test this one right away. Unfortunately, it doesn't quite convince me - at least in today's cold weather:
In the opening, citrusy and with a distinct jasmine note, I still like it. However, an almost piercing sharpness increasingly comes to the fore. This does not feel warm at all, but rather cuttingly cold. On top of that lies an indefinable floral note.
The citrus is dangerously close to the edge of being reminiscent of a toilet cleaner, but it is just in time tempered by the bitter note.
The base note is bitter and cool, still accompanied by the aforementioned cool sharpness.
Overall, the scent reminds me a lot of "Green Tea (Eau Parfumée) | Elizabeth Arden," but it feels less balanced than that. The piercing undertone and the cooling effect make it rather unpleasant for me in the currently wintry temperatures. It will go in the drawer until midsummer.