Neroline

“In a garden, paradise was lost; in a garden, we will find it again”
“Blaise Pascal”

Florabotanica had been on my wishlist for a long time. The design of the bottle is refreshingly different. The box is so beautifully designed that you can hardly throw it away.
However, the mint had previously held me back. Florabotanica is not available everywhere, and I didn't want to risk a blind buy. A dear friend in perfumery included a small sample with a decant, and so it happened that I was finally able to test Florabotanica, and what can I say, I ordered it the next day.

Florabotanica reminds me of my childhood in the Allgäu. Of the lush meadows that were full of flowers in spring. Of the stream near our house where we constantly played to our mother's dismay. Of the water mint that grew there and the little dams we built. Of the small fish we tried to catch and how we were put in the tub dirty and wet. Also, of how we wove crowns from all the flowers and felt like princesses. All of this suddenly awakens in me with Florabotanica. How strange we humans are. Such a little bottle can suddenly transport you 30 years back in time.

Florabotanica begins with a powdery floral rush that makes you think of finely crushed dried flowers. The mint prevents the powderiness from feeling stale. The beginning slightly reminds me of the CD deodorant Water Lily that I used for a long time. The dreaded peppermint is wonderfully interwoven with the flowers and woods and is hardly noticeable on its own. The scent is like a walk through a blooming garden in May.

Once this initial floral rush calms down, a beautiful rosy and simultaneously creamy scent cloud develops, which should captivate all rose lovers. This creamy rose aura surprisingly accompanies me for hours. At some point, the scent becomes milder, but the rose remains.

What I particularly like is that there is no lemon included. Many rose fragrances use lemon, which tends to overshadow the rose. There are also no heavy woods or vanilla, but rather clove and vetiver. The clove supports the rose and adds a bit of spice, while vetiver provides the necessary depth and likely also contributes to the longevity and coolness of Florabotanica. This coolness makes Florabotanica particularly wonderful for the warmer months.

For a rather delicate scent, the longevity is astonishing. Despite the powder at the beginning, Florabotanica is a very youthful and uncomplicated fragrance. A delightful companion for an entire workday and for me, one of the most beautiful floral scents in my collection.

Cuir de Nuit is one of the new fragrances from the line
“la Collection Eau de Parfum” that was launched in 2019 with a unified design. Unfortunately for many fans, Rocher has removed almost all other fragrances from the range.
This simplifies things for the company. Since Rocher mainly brings out dupes of major fragrances, they need to be able to react quickly. One scent goes out, another comes into the program.
The variety that Rocher used to have is probably too expensive in the long run. From the development of the formula to the packaging design, everything has to be done twice. This standardization has already been observed at Guerlain. A rascal thinks ill of it. The result of this streamlining is a sadly unappealing bottle with a cheap plastic cap. It could just as well be found at Edeka or any other well-stocked supermarket.

The creations are all based on popular bestsellers. They also advertise with big perfumers. It must be clear that with such a little bottle, you won’t get an olfactory highlight with high-quality ingredients. But what can the inclined customer expect when buying Cuir de Nuit? When I think of leather, I think of sensual hours or an elegant daytime scent.

Unfortunately, the name is quite misleading. Anyone expecting a dark, sensual, or even erotic scent will be disappointed. Cuir de Nuit is not a nighttime erotic leather or a sensual Tom Ford Violet Blonde, nor is it a refined Bottega Veneta, but rather a warm and soft chocolate scent. That’s not bad in itself, but it’s simply not leather. Cuir de Nuit caters to the current preference for sweetness in fragrances. After the initial alcohol note, it immediately smells powdery chocolatey, soft, and warm. Milk chocolate with a hint of coffee and vanilla filling. Delicious, gently enveloping, and soft. The scent has something of body care products with cocoa butter. It lasts a very long time on the skin and is still noticeable in clothes the next day. The sillage, however, is quite limited, and the fragrance doesn’t develop either. It remains as it is. Unfortunately, this also makes it a bit boring.

However, those who enjoy warm vanilla scents will find this appealing. I currently wear Cuir de Nuit very happily at home as it wraps me in a cozy warm cloud. Together with a vanilla-containing body lotion, it’s a great comfort scent for the cool season. For work, though, it would be too flat for me. The price-performance ratio is good here. Currently, you can get the 100 ml for €30.00 on sale. You can’t complain about that.

Those who like Narcisso Rodriguez Rouge will also find pleasure in Cuir de Nuit. Of course, one cannot expect its finesse and quality.
Overall, Rocher has not moved up with the new perfumes, but has unfortunately slipped a bit more into the mass market. Nevertheless, with this series, you get current and trendy fragrance directions or dupes at a budget-friendly price.

Conclusion: A clear recommendation for purchase for anyone who enjoys warm vanilla scents. Very good for layering with orientals.

...whispered Miss Monroe into the microphone in 1962 for J.F. Kennedy's birthday, surely wearing Chanel N°5.
Her dress, the cake, and the affair with J.F. Kennedy are legendary. Because at the latest since she told a magazine in an interview that she wore only a drop of Chanel N°5 as her nightgown, the success of this fragrance could no longer be stopped.
The imagination of millions of women was sparked, and every woman wanted to be as sexy as Miss Monroe and smell just like her. Chanel N°5 - that was a little piece of happiness.

I have no idea how the original scent from 1921 smelled, but today's Chanel No5 is too strong for me. Yes, and somehow also a bit outdated. However, since I was fascinated by the fragrance history, I delved into it to find out what this scent is all about. After all, it will celebrate its 100th birthday next year, and that deserves recognition.

In the late summer of 1920, Ernest Beaux began developing the first perfume for Mademoiselle Chanel. It was intended as a gift for Chanel's clients. It was to be a perfume for a woman with the scent of a woman.
It is still suspected today that he used the perfume he originally developed as a tribute to the former Empress Catherine as the basis for his creations. Mrs. Chanel herself apparently did not properly assess the perfume business and therefore relinquished all rights very early on. It took her a lot of effort and time to be able to re-enter the market. With none of her fragrances did she ever achieve such success again.

The aldehydes that were newly introduced in the fragrance world at that time are said to be responsible for the radiant freshness of the scent. "Radiant freshness," I wonder, I cannot recognize that. But I find out that aldehydes above a certain concentration, or when aging, are often perceived as rancid, fishy, or old. Therefore, careful dosing in the lab is essential. The perfume itself must not only be stored in the dark but should also not get too old. And therein lies the problem: The once almost unaffordable bottle was only used on special occasions and changed over the years. That’s when the "Grandma Helga" impression arises.

N°5 contains vetiver as one of the first women's fragrances. The sweet grass is usually used in men's perfumes. It can also be found, like oak moss, in many Chanel fragrances and is partly responsible for the bittersweetness that is typical for Chanel. Vetiver is also found in Coco Mademoiselle. Originally, this was probably the signature of the perfumer Ernest Beaux. It is this allure between the many sweet and floral components and the more masculine and rugged ingredients that makes the fascination of N°5.

For our noses accustomed to sweet cake scents, this is very hard to comprehend at first.

For reasons of species protection and the toxicity of various ingredients, the original scent has been repeatedly adapted and adjusted to standards. This includes, among other things, civet, musk, jasmine, or oak moss. Even though many are critical of the numerous so-called reformulations, I welcome that no animal products like musk or civet are used anymore.
Many people react strongly to oak moss and jasmine, and adjustments had to be made here as well. Overall, the scent has certainly changed as a result.

Chanel N°5 will celebrate its 100th birthday next year. Surely, the house of Chanel will celebrate the big birthday appropriately. Because despite the 100 years, N°5 is still right at the forefront; many people associate this scent with perfume.

I have now tested the various N°5 fragrances and have actually fallen in love with one: The No5 Eau Premiere. Also not brand new, but somehow it passed me by. For me, this is truly a scent that is out of this world:

The radiant freshness of the aldehydes with the typical hints of orange peel comes through much better here than in the original. It has the lightness I wished for. Maybe it was like that in 1921 too? Who knows.

N°5 Eau Premiere is unmistakably a granddaughter of the famous great-grandmother. However, it is softer and gentler than its famous ancestor. Therefore, it is also significantly younger and more modern. It’s as if a thick layer of the scent has been removed.
Somehow, I actually have an idea of what fascinated Ernest Beaux so much: The sparkling freshness of the aldehydes at the beginning. It’s like carbonation in water.

On the skin, Eau Premiere develops into a scent that reminds me after a while of human skin. Of how we smelled as children when we rode our bikes home from the swimming pool or how a freshly bathed baby smells. Also of the fresh air at 5:30 AM while camping in summer or the fresh breeze on the skin after a boat ride. Fresh, warm, and soft, and full of sunshine. Eau Premiere hardly changes either. After the initial freshness, it becomes warm and soft. It remains like a delicate veil of scent on the skin for many hours. Not spectacular, not erotic or heavily oriental. But so good and so beautiful - or as my husband says: It smells like love.

Full of blossoms stands the peach tree
not every one will bear fruit,
they shimmer bright like rose foam
through blue and clouds' flight.

Like blossoms, thoughts arise,
hundreds each day -
Let them bloom! Let the thing run its course!
Do not ask about the yield!

There must also be play and dance
and an abundance of blossoms,
otherwise the world would be far too small for us
and life no enjoyment. (H.Hesse)

Nomade starts with a very pleasant floral freshness that immediately reminds of the fragrant fresh peach and plum blossoms now in spring. The floral freshness is accompanied by citrus notes that come through quite clearly. The pyramid does not match here. Later, the fruity sweetness of the mirabelle fruit joins in.
The mirabelle, a relative of the peach tree, is the main character in this unusual fragrance from Chloe. Over time, the whole thing becomes milder and also noticeably more bitter. The scent now becomes green, woody, and floral. The oak moss is well detectable with its spiciness, but I also smell sandalwood and patchouli. The fine sweetness of the mirabelle remains present the whole time. Overall, very complex and very beautifully crafted. Despite the bitter ingredients, Nomade is an extremely feminine and elegant fragrance.

With this modern chypre, Chloe takes a bold step away from gourmand fragrances. I initially had difficulties with the bitter side of Nomade. And yet - it has stuck in my mind. This fruity, lovely freshness with the beautiful spiciness and the woody base. Very unusual and therefore distinctive. Nomade is a timeless, fine, and cool scent that remains unforgettable - the bold fragrance of a rather unconventional woman. It leaves a well-groomed and elegant impression.

With a moderate sillage and a longevity of about 8 hours, Nomade is excellent as an office fragrance. The scent can be worn year-round, but it shines most beautifully now in spring. Like all bottles from Chloe, this one is also beautiful and a decoration in the bathroom. The price is in the mid-range, which makes repurchasing not so painful.
Nomade is a clear recommendation from me for women who enjoy floral-woody or floral-fresh fragrances.

Like blossoms, thoughts arise,
hundreds each day -
Let them bloom! Let the thing run its course!
Do not ask about the yield!

Gabrielle is having a bit of a hard time on the German market. It is not as "typical Chanel" as one might expect. Gabrielle dances a little out of line. Less strict, less matronly, less conservative than the well-known icons. "A fragrance full of radiance," writes Chanel on their homepage. "Warm, floral, sensual, and opulent" it is supposed to be. That all sounds very promising. Is it still Chanel? Has Oliver Polge managed to transport this claim into a bottle? For me, the answer is clearly: Yes! Oliver Polge has created a young, contemporary, yet elegant fragrance here that does justice to the house of Chanel.

With the Gabrielle line, Chanel is obviously trying to appeal to a younger audience and shake off its somewhat dusty image.
Even if die-hard fans don't want to see it: The young audience mostly thinks of "grandma fragrances" when it comes to Chanel. As beautiful as the old Chanel fragrances were or are, they are no longer contemporary. The Exclusif line is hardly affordable for younger women or they don't know it.
To keep up in the market, a contemporary fragrance must also be part of the portfolio. With the selection of ingredients, Oliver Polge has hit the pulse of the times: Citrus notes and white flowers open the fragrance with their sunny notes. A warm, sensual impression is created immediately. Quite quickly, Ylang Ylang, Tuberose, and Jasmine take over, giving the fragrance sweetness and an exotic touch. Later, the scent becomes milder and creamier with Sandalwood, Vanilla, and a hint of Coconut. The fragrance is perfectly balanced, no note really stands out, nothing is bothersome. The scent is warm, soft, creamy, and sensual. Gabrielle feels very natural. The exotic components have been very popular for years - especially among an audience accustomed to traveling to distant countries.
And yet, it is not an overpowering coconut bomb like Victoria's Secrets nor a loud cheerful Paco Rabanne fragrance.
Gabrielle remains Chanel and is, therefore, discreetly elegant despite all its opulence. Gabrielle does not leave a killer sillage and is so elegant that it can also be worn in a business outfit. The longevity is very good, lasting up to 8 hours.

Gabrielle is indeed as promised on the Chanel homepage: Sensual, opulent, and passionate. The scent of a modern younger or young-at-heart woman who enjoys life with all her senses and yet is a respectable personality.

Similarities to the first Gabrielle are certainly present, only this one is a bit more robust and sporty.
Both have their own charm.

I think that Chanel will take a new direction with Gabrielle. This is also evident in the changed bottle. It is certainly a quantum leap in fragrance technology from No5 or No19 to Gabrielle. But they are all children of their time and captured the respective spirit of the age. For me, Gabrielle Essence is one of the best new releases of 2019 and the best Chanel in a long time.