Tigerwood ’91 – A Shock of Oud and Ambergris
What a hit. Seriously. I thought Tigerwood Terengganu was unbeatable, but this deserves nothing but applause. Tigerwood ’91 keeps the structure of its “brother” but pushes it further: denser, more material, more intense.
This is a real bombardment of oud and ambergris, both used in very generous amounts. The opening is powerful and striking: coffee and cocoa are clearly defined at first, almost brutal, but they don’t last long. They quickly melt into the body of the fragrance, becoming part of a much bigger picture. After a few minutes, everything tightens up and what truly dominates is a spectacular blend of oud (Malayan and Vietnamese) and ambergris, with a strong mineral edge.
Despite its power, it’s not static at all. I find it surprisingly dynamic. In the background, musky nuances appear, along with tobacco and a subtle spicy undertone that adds depth without weighing it down. It’s dark, full-bodied, animalic in the right way, and incredibly well blended.
A more “grown-up,” more muscular Tigerwood that doesn’t ask for permission. For those who love Ensar Oud at its highest level, this one is simply a must.
Pan’s Labyrinth – Getting Lost Is a Pleasure
Oh wow… that’s honestly the first thought that comes to mind every single time I smell it. Pan’s Labyrinth is a dark fougère reimagined in a modern way, fascinating and deeply evocative.
The opening is powdery and slightly sweet, with bergamot, bitter almond, and a soft, enveloping texture that pulls you in right away. In the first few minutes it stays gentle and restrained, then it starts to move: lavender and ylang-ylang rise naturally, weaving together with patchouli and rose without ever feeling heavy.
The base is deep and beautifully blended: musks, Malayan oud, labdanum, oakmoss, and woods create a dark, elegant, and coherent foundation that holds everything together with great balance.
A fragrance that keeps evolving on the skin, refined yet full of character, and another clear example of how well Lost Tribe can play with complex, unconventional atmospheres. And Rajesh… he manages to surprise me every single time. Well done to both of you.
Kinam, But Make It Elegant
It opens with a bright, sweet glow, thanks to a phenomenal blend of citrus and red fruits, making the fragrance very wearable and not animalic at all. The opening feels elegant and almost juicy, instantly inviting.
From the very beginning, the woody backbone is clearly noticeable, and it becomes more prominent as time goes by. The kinam here is dry, refined, and distinctly woody, supported by spices and florals without ever losing balance.
A noteworthy woody kinam, crafted with great intelligence.
And the longevity? Monstrous, as expected from Ensar.
Truly well done.
The Bigger Brother
Compared to the original Peau d’Orris, this version is denser, oilier, and more powerful. Sylhet oud runs through the entire composition, osmanthus is more prominent with animalic nuances, and the base is darker and more structured, with castoreum clearly noticeable.
The iris is more blended and less dominant, as is the oakmoss, which stays in the background. The result is a fragrance that feels full-bodied, bold, and practically indelible, with a stronger animalic edge.
As my brother Ott8 says Smelled blind, it could easily be mistaken for an Ensar Oud.
I already loved the original, but this one might go even further. Great work.
A Juicy Take on Oud
To me, Cyber Oud feels like a juicy splash of strawberry and blackcurrant, bright, vibrant, and immediately addictive. The opening is fresh and lively, with that almost liquid fruity feel, lifted even more by a touch of mint that adds air and freshness from the very start.
The oud is clearly present, but never overpowering—it acts as a backbone, supporting the whole composition all the way to the drydown without weighing it down. As the fragrance evolves, it keeps changing: from the initial fruity burst to a refined floral heart, and finally into a greener, softer base with sandalwood, violet leaf, and patchouli.
Overall, this is a beautifully balanced fruity–floral oud, dynamic and never static, constantly shifting from opening to base in a very natural way.
Great work by Mathew, and a great discovery of a brand for me.
