Ponticus

Ponticus

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Ponticus 8 months ago 61 54
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Rumors about smells - vanilla on top again!
In the meantime, calm has returned. After the exciting events surrounding the oudVanille perfume scandal, the situation has calmed down and the relevant investigations are underway. However, rumors continue to circulate about what happened. This is partly due to the fact that a mysterious accident occurred shortly after the outrageous act against the vanilla.

Without any further signs of mishap, a completely destroyed bottle with three empty fragrance pods was found right by the side of the road. The scent pods belonged to the voluptuous Mrs. Rose Geranium, another to the strong rockrose and finally one to her cheeky lout Labdanum, all members of the wild horde of fragrances that had played so badly with the delicate vanilla. At the same time, it was rumored that the cap and spray head of the bottle had been tampered with, with the Mifia and, above all, the old rope teams of the former Naasi having had a hand in it! As the potential mastermind behind this, suspicion naturally quickly fell on Vanille, which had been badly shaken by the dead. But as already indicated, these were nothing but rumors!

Vanilla had coped well with the hospital and rehab, was enormously stronger and full of energy. In recognition of her courage and bravery, it was even suggested that she be given the title Bourbon Vanilla. Brimming with new self-confidence, Vanille quickly turned her attention to another project, the EdP Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron.

This perfume was now entirely the world of vanilla. Here, as the heart note in the center, it can direct all the fragrance facets, is everywhere, sometimes dominant, sometimes restrained and gives Jaïpur Homme this beautiful vanilla aura without being arbitrary as a solitary vanilla fragrance.

Jaïpur Homme EdP starts off as a wild, intense, fresh citrus fragrance, which immediately introduces clear aromas of vanilla, marzipan and cherry pie, for which the vanilla flower, also known as heliotrope, is responsible. The cardamom adds a very aromatic spiciness, underpinned by a rather tart, somewhat austere note. As time goes on, the citrus notes quickly fade into the background and things start to get cozy.

From now on, the vanilla itself takes over. Leaving the fresh citrus notes behind, it becomes warmer, creamier and a floral soapiness underlines the cultivated flawlessness of a perfect time. The striking facets of the very aromatic vanilla, a powerful cinnamon and a tart clove provide an oriental flair. In the background, there is a stimulating, spicy scent of speculoos and cherry cake. Resinous, balsamic wood tones reinforce the feeling of comforting warmth and create a cozy ambience. Towards the end, Jaïpur Homme is somewhat grounded by a little patchouli, strictly controlled by the vanilla aroma so as not to create a cellar smell.

Jaïpur Homme EdP is one of the few small wonders of the perfume world. Not only does it smell excellent, distinctive and persistent, but it has also survived 25 years of "comings and goings", is still quite easy to obtain and at a more than acceptable price. There are many perfumes that smell good and even more that I find unpleasant, but few where the overall package stands out so positively from the now huge mass market (niches and corners included)! You can hardly spend your money much better on a perfume!

Thank you very much !

54 Comments
Ponticus 2 years ago 112 70
8
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
An attempt to say it through the flower! Platitudes, phrases, idioms!
Let's go with the perfume to touch, see if the chemistry is right.
Let's take a closer look at Rose de Kandahar, separate the wheat from the chaff.

The fragrance goes ran like Blücher, it is not spilled, but geklotzt.
At the beginning of the apricot fruitiness immediately haut fresh-spicy on the Putz.
Cinnamon throws his hat into the ring, but immediately shifts down a gear.
Bitter almond stands toe to toe, so sweetness doesn't play first fiddle.
Still a shadow of its former self, the rose has its back to the wall.
The stern scent of wet hay hides the rose like a needle in a haystack.

It's high time for the rose, otherwise she's not worth a shot of powder.
And she won't let the butter be taken off her bread, she'll put on more than one tooth.
The rose rises like a phoenix from the ashes and bangs on mightily.
She masters her rose-scented facets as if by rote, everything is in butter.
We float on cloud nine, a scent feeling like to be bedded on roses.
The slight bitterness of the almond remains the salt in the not sweet soup.
To stand up to the florality of the rose, tobacco is raised to the shield.

Tobacco rides the rose's coattails well and appears as bold as Oscar.
The scent is at a crossroads, but the rose keeps the tobacco well in check.
The point is, both have it fistfuls.
Ultimately, the tobacco backs the rose up and reaches out.
The rosy-warm spiciness of both runs like a thread through the fragrance.
But not all days are over yet, not everything is under wraps.

The perfume base as the ace in the sleeve puts the crown on the fragrance.
Cinnamon has made off, musty-harsh vetiver plays the stopgap.
The vanilla knocks cautiously on the bush, but keeps the ball quite flat.
Bitter almond smells almost to the bitter end, but now gives up the spoon.
Marzipan Tonka bean jumps into the breach, sweetness laughs in the fist.
Patchouli has dirt on it, earthy-woody hits the nail on the head.
There we have the salad, but Patchouli has made the bill without the host.
That doesn't take the wind out of the rose's sails, it shows what a rake is.
This rose is thorny and has hair on its teeth, earthy-floral it stays on the ball.
And she keeps tart-sweet-dark in charge until the end, lucky.

As a rose fragrance the egg of Columbus, Une Rose de Kandahar hits the mark.
Thick air at arm's length about 6 hours, end in the terrain is after 10 hours.
Packaging and Tauer flacon an old hat, the high price is me Wurst.

A load off my mind. I hope you don't get cold feet reading this
cold feet while reading, don't hang your head or grow grey hairs either!
I'm keeping my fingers crossed for everyone!

70 Comments
Ponticus 3 years ago 86 55
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
On a treasure hunt
The search for the protagonist of the perfume Ambre Tabac by Daniel Josier does not lead us directly to the eponymous fragrance notes of amber and tobacco but first to the incense, which determines the direction of the fragrance from the beginning. It does so with an intense, spicy aroma that leaves little doubt about its current dominance. From the outset, however, this incense is also like a soft, warm and protective cloak that immediately reminds me of the aromatic scent of the Christmas Raachermanneln in front of the fireplace at home. It never resembles the sacral smell of cold church rooms or that of smoke or acrid smoke. This results not least from the sidelined, not independently noticeable fruity-fresh bergamot, which blossoms perfectly in the incense and takes him the dark peaks.

While with other perfumes often their scents in the memory emotions and experiences inspire, it concerns with Ambre Tabac with me rather its Vepackung with content. As children and teenagers we enjoyed unrestricted freedom in playing and roaming around in the countryside, in the adjacent, destroyed and at that time already overgrown air base, the many small woods, gravel pits, ponds and openly accessible garbage dumps. A paradise for explorers, adventurers and treasure hunters. Many times we found our little treasures in the form of cartridge cases, signs, watches, porcelain, tools, spray bottles, cigarette albums, books, photos, flasks, cutlery and much more. Only the "big one" was missing, but we knew exactly how it should look like, inconspicuous on the outside and shining golden on the inside! Our greatest treasure, but we did not know it at the time, was our freedom and light-heartedness to do all this without supervision, without helmets and without control calls!

These times and incidents move my thoughts as I unpacked the perfume Ambre Tabac by Daniel Josier. The dark box of solid cardboard, solid and with some pale gold decorations, makes a rather modest, simple impression! All the brighter a sparkling sun shines, no dazzles the viewer after opening the box. The thick glass bottle fills the box almost completely and glitters together with the huge Golden Nugget lid around the bet, while the bright glow of the golden yellow liquid drives away the last suspicion, it is not a significant treasure!

After the incense has set itself intensely, brightly and with a sweetish freshness well in scene, it is also immediately flanked by tobacco and amber impressively. Although these title fragrance notes should only appear as a base chord, they mix very early in the fragrance of Ambre Tabac with, whereby their tobacco facets come with time more and more to bear, woody, spicy and marzipanig-sweet. In addition, there are very warm, velvety and also earthy aspects, but all perfectly merge in this complex, highly aromatic overall composition. Also a mentioned vanilla note certainly contributes its sweet-spicy aroma without being overt itself. The supporting pillars of incense and the tobacco becoming drier, powderier and more tart towards the back remain until the end.

Ambre Tabac was created with very good Haltbakeit (good 10 hours) and decent sillage as an eau de parfum for men. The very bulky, masculine flacon points directly to it. Daniel Josier as the responsible perfumer designed here certainly his masterpiece. Early in life he was interested in perfumery and after training and studies he quickly received direct employment at various companies and / or worked with many for many years, including Symrise, UniLever, LVMH, Iberchem and Puig L'Oreal. In 2009, he founded his own collection of niche luxury fragrances, L'Atelier del Perfume. In doing so, he likes to draw on the classic-traditional inspirations of his native Spain and its fantastic landscapes, coasts and cities.

Many thanks for the reading companionship!

55 Comments
Ponticus 3 years ago 71 62
7
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Been a long time
Long time ago, long time ago, long time ago
Long time ago, long time ago - long time ago

Vapor long ago the times when at the end of each tunnel always a bright light was to be seen, meanwhile one, often already touched by the fate, looks today more and more on already mowed meadows. Even the furrows that one still makes oneself are no longer as deep and fertile as they once were. It is now less about gaining new harvests than about defending the status quo! And more and more often, I'm left with a sinking feeling in my stomach, as if one had just, while opening a can in vain, torn off the tab ring!

Verdamp lang her is the first release of the well-known hit title of the group BAB from 1981. His text is very touching and virtually predestined to deal with the past. However, while Niedecken dealt with the death of his father, here I reflect on past times and some retrospection on it. The song and the perfume to be discussed, Open by Roger & Gallet, are children of the 80s, years of upheaval in the West and in the East, as well as an important and formative part of my life memories

Vapor long ago the year 1980 as the Greens were founded, 1989 was then the end of the GDR. In between were the Falklands War, AIDS, Chernobyl, Challengerexplosion, Perestroika, Ramstein flight accident, home computer and CD, Lindenstraße, Dallas, New German Wave, hip-hop, aerobics, mullet, carrot pants, leggings and Schimanski.

Vapor long ago my beautiful, carefree childhood and the eventful school years as with the beginning of the 80s and the Wehrdienstantritt also knocked for me the beginning of the "seriousness of life". It was the time in which many first pegs of the own life were hit, study, wedding, birth of the children, occupation start, removals, out and upheavals

Vapor long ago the year 1985 as with Open by Roger & Gallet a very distinctive perfume block of the 80s was set. This fragrance fits probably like no other in this time and is clearly an adult perfume, rough, tart, masculine and dry. At the start you get presented with the full broadside, citrusy soapiness and herb dominated spice with pithy sprinkles of lavender. As I said, all completely dry and with no discernible sweetness. In no time at all, a strong but pleasant men's barber atmosphere sets in, which in turn is briskly captured by herbaceous tobacco. This tobacco develops into the widely determining fragrance element, at first rather herbaceous-green, later increasingly darker, more pithy and earthy-powerful.

Vapor long ago also the year when I lost my heart to a perfume firecracker of the 80s and that was not Open. But a good friend has become me the Open of Roger & Gallet, since I was allowed to get to know him, well after the turn. After the rather stormy opening, it now makes more of a protective impression. The scent becomes warmer, woody tones come through, the smell becomes softer, gentler and very pleasant. All steadily accompanied by now darkly spicy and quite tart tobacco notes, which have not yet lost all the freshness of the beginning and also somewhat reminiscent of mossy, damp earth. Thus, a clearly masculine, old school feeling is conveyed overall, somewhat old-fashioned but very concise!

Damn long ago that the word conservative also had a positive connotation. With Open by Roger & Gallet, however, it has found a fitting fragrance equivalent and this from the beginning. Open does not instigate a revolution or change, but it is a guarantor for it, in a retrospective to remember that in past times, although not everything was better, but many things were also quite good and it is worthwhile to preserve this.

It's been a long time since I thanked you for your tireless reading! So, thank you very much!

"You don't have to kid yourself, the accidental success thing of 'Verdamp lang her' is of course that everyone interprets their own story into it." (Wolfgang Niedecken)

62 Comments
Ponticus 3 years ago 79 50
6
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Hidden treasures
Do you know how Altamir came to be? No? Neither do I, but it might have been as follows!

Surely it must have been a very good day for Ted Lapidus. Not only did he feel a bit stronger again health-wise, no, a long-awaited sense of accomplishment provided renewed courage and confidence in life. Since he had retired to the Côte d'Azur in the mid-1990s, he had been experimenting with new fragrance creations here in his small, private perfume laboratory, more for his own pleasure and for the fun of it. Yesterday in the evening the big throw seemed to succeed, because a sweet-oriental gem pushed vehemently and intensely from one of the Erlenmeyer flasks of the experimental series.

In 1951, Ted Lapidus founded his fashion company and celebrated great success with his haute couture designs that were based on uniform and safari elements. Nevertheless, the perfume division had to be sold in 1983 and in 1986 also the fashion house. However, fashion and perfume continued to be offered under the Ted Lapidus brand. Suffering from leukemia at the end of his life, Ted Lapidus died on December 29, 2008 at the age of 79.

Now back in the lab in the morning it was time to capture and document all the details of the scent experiment. A powerful olfactory bouquet of vanilla emanated from the flask full of juice and power from the first sniff. It was precisely these vanilla facets that he placed great emphasis on. Two other sweet-oriental perfumes served as models, namely Cašmir and Gaultier². But while the vanilla in Cašmir rather dark-earthy and in Gaultier² sweetish-cookie comes along, he succeeded in this attempt to develop an aromatic and honey-like, vanilla note as a determining fragrance element for the new perfume.

Ted Lapidus noted all the quantities, additions, and order of fragrance notes and noticed the absence of vanilla. He was sure he had not forgotten this defining ingredient, and the smell on the flask left little doubt. A new batch, also without vanilla, produced the identical result. Still somewhat confused, he filled a small bottle and wrote on the label "Altamir" in reference to the mysterious, prehistoric cave of Altamira, which hides no vanilla treasures, but unique, millennia-old, stone-age murals.

Immediately, a sweetly vanilla breeze blew, literally exploding as Ted Lapidus activated the sprayer. A fruity, bitter-sweet storm came up, sweeping through sweet-flowery front yards with fresh-citrusy gusts. A brief rain shower as well as the sun piercing through again caused the air to billow and the floral scent to run free. It smelled of flowers and blossoms as well as juicy-fruity, intensely honey-sweet and a little woodsy-spicy. At the same time, a rich breeze of an aromatic vanilla permanently wafted around from all sides. As the fragrance progresses, the base notes, above all amber and tonka bean, spread comforting warmth, the air is creamy heavy, tart-sweet to caramel and with many woody facets. And even now, a now dry, steady vanilla wind whispers steadily at the base. The atmosphere is relaxed, it smells like siesta, prosecco, dessert with ice cream and being happy.

Altamir is a fascinating perfume and yet still made it to the market in 2007 under the label of Ted Lapidus, even without vanilla. It is both fresh and sensual, modern and original, a powerful perfume with an extraordinary appeal. Despite intense sweetness, a noble and masculine coming fragrance with good durability and sillage.

With a fragrance recommendation to Altamir and the tip for the visit to the cave of Altamira I thank you very much!
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