Rossiniopera

When you have spent many days in a row testing all sorts of perfumes, again and again, perfumes that you had actually planned to get rid of, just to see if you might still enjoy them, even if you know deep down that you don't...

Then it's a great relief to finally wash it all off, and spray on something that you know for sure that you really LOVE. Like Coco.

Coco is never wrong. Coco is always right. And it will always be with me. While I save the edp for the colder seasons, the edt can be worn all year. Brighter and more sparkling than the edp, fruitier, more citrusy, less of the heavy (but-oh-so-beautiful) rose and civet. But no less marvellous. Elegant, but comfortable. Simply put: something I really love to wear - no need to think about it or having to try again, just to be sure. Coco fits.

Sometimes I wonder why I even bother to worry about all those maybe- and not-sure-perfumes. I have this beauty, and when I wear it, I almost - ALMOST - feel as if I do not need any other perfumes at all...

(Review of 90s vintage edt)

The first time I tried Gala - I think it was a sample that a kind person sent to me, many years ago - I was completely floored. A wonderful, huge blast of soft aldehydes, sweet, very realistic jasmine, creamy sandalwood and loads and loads of dark, animalic castoreum... I had never smelled anything like it. It was like a huge piece of beautiful cloth, a blanket, a cape, a shawl, I am not sure exactly what, it was soft and heavy at the same time, it was dark velvet and airy lace, and I just wanted to wrap myself in it and breath in the beautiful scent forever. I knew I had to have it, and ordered a bottle immediately.

Strangely enough, I hardly ever wore it. I suppose I found it a little difficult to wear in public, I was worried that its heavy animalic trail would scare people away. Vintage perfumes sometimes have that effect on those who are not used to them. I love animalic perfumes myself, but yes, I admit that with some of them, people might sometimes wonder if perhaps you didn't wash for a while.

So Gala stayed in my closet, unused for years. I tested it again recently, and found that I am not as enchanted by it as I was all those years ago. I feel that the castoreum floats on top like a much too heavy lid, it doesn't blend in with the rest in the way that I remember, and I keep wishing for it to go away.

It makes me a bit sad, because when you remember something as being very beautiful, you want it to stay that way. But maybe it's just me - getting older, no longer able to carry that gorgeous velvet-lacy cape with the natural grace that it requires.

Gala will remain with me as a bitter-sweet memory in a beautiful bottle. And perhaps a reminder to wear what you love, while you are able to...

Marella Ferrera is a hidden little treasure that deserves more attention. It is one of my summer staples and always puts me in a good mood.

It's juicy, fruity and sunny in the best possible 90s way. Sweet pineapple and apricot are the main notes, but it never gets too sweet, thanks to the touch of spice. Vanilla adds smiles and happiness, while cumin gives it an edge, makes it just a tiny bit more grown-up. It has an oriental side, a reflection of Chopard's Casmir in it, but significally toned down. As if someone poured themselves a huge glass of pineapple juice, then accidently spilled a drop of perfume in there. And with a quite happy result! If, like me, you appreciate the idea of Casmir, but find it a little too intense to wear, you might find Marella to be a great option. Or if you just enjoy sweet, spicy fruit in general.

The only downside is that the diamond-shaped bottle comes in a soft plastic box that breaks immediately, and therefore the bottles are a bit clumsy to store, and even to hold, at least in the larger size. But they also come in a more normal-shaped bottle in a proper cardboard box (in 30 ml, at least).

I am lucky to have a full bottle of the 1980s Ma collection, edt version.

On me, Chaldée opens with a very natural, super-animalic narcissus note. It's like sticking your nose into a whole bouquet of fresh narcissus flowers, only even more animalic, in a way that oddly enough reminds me of horses. Like a stable, or a circus manège where horses have been running around. This may not sound very pretty, but I love it.

The narcissus remains the strongest note, but I also get some orange flower and a lot of lilac, which is heavy and intoxicating. After a couple of hours, the scent becomes more vanillic and ambery, but it never gets too sweet.

I like wearing this as a warm spring scent. Really beautiful vintage perfume.

Byrsa falls in the category of golden warm, spicy 80s florientals. The spices here are well blended, cinnamon is most notable, there's probably also coriander. The perfume is very smooth, no harshness. Above the floral spiciness there's a soft breath of something green and herbal, especially in the initial phase. A cola note comes and goes.
A good one, but I don't find it that unique, and it's not a must-have for me.