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The Royal Iris from the Sultan!
Admittedly, it took some time for me to reach the point in my fragrance journey where I considered thinking about Ensar Oud scents, let alone owning any. The absolute high-end price and the somewhat over-the-top marketing kept me from ordering or testing an EO until the beginning of last year. However, after trying some niche fragrances, I was so intrigued by a scent from Ensar Oud that I ordered a 15ml bottle, I can hardly bring myself to say it, blind!!! You can guess which one it was - Right! - Iris Ghalia - version 3 or 4 (I don't know the exact difference between the two versions).
First of all, I must say that I absolutely appreciate Iris as a fragrance note. I love that powdery, buttery yet earthy floral scent aura that surrounds you as soon as you spray fragrances with a high natural iris content. Since Iris Ghalia is supposed to be the spearhead here, I couldn't hold back any longer and had to get myself a bottle!
I still remember the day when the Iris Ghalia arrived at my home via express delivery. With trembling hands, I opened the package and the small Ensar Oud box inside. There it was - my first Ensar - a tiny 15 ml bottle with the silver inscription - Iris Ghalia. Not even two seconds later, I cautiously pressed the spray head and an extremely oily layer covered the back of my hand.
A few seconds later, something olfactorily followed that I could hardly believe. I got goosebumps, simply due to the beauty of this fragrance!
Yes - it starts off quite animalic due to the high content of natural animal ingredients like amber, musk, hyraceum, castoreum, and muskrat. However, the initially present iris, along with incredibly natural-smelling blackcurrant and peach notes, quickly dampens the initial animalic aspect, and Iris Ghalia becomes floral, fruity, and creamy within just 2-3 minutes, with an incredible sparkling - almost reminiscent of Coca-Cola - effervescence (probably from the Tibetan musk combined with amber).
The cola note, which I have also been able to detect in other Ensar Oud fragrances, is present throughout the entire long-lasting scent journey. Iris Ghalia becomes - I suspect due to the high iris content - increasingly syrupy, creating a play between iced tea peach and sparkling cola. The fragrance also becomes more floral with the iris and the prominent blue lotus! In the background, a present animalic aspect always lingers, ensuring that the scent never becomes too sweet. Overall, IG has an extreme progression and thus never becomes boring!
As is typical for Ensar, the ingredients are incredibly well intertwined, creating a true work of art! For a purely natural fragrance, this lasts extremely long. I get a good 10 hours of longevity, and the sillage is quite strong in the first few hours. Despite the present animalic notes, Iris Ghalia is definitely one of the most mass-appealing Ensar Ouds and can therefore be worn without hesitation to evening events in "Western spheres," without having to worry about being looked at askance!
In conclusion, I would like to make a small correction regarding the previously mentioned exaggerated marketing of EO: Now that I have gained some olfactory experience, I can say that you can truly smell the absolute high-end quality of Ensar Oud, and there are indeed very few, if any, perfume houses out there that possess such magnificent vintage ingredients and can showcase them as skillfully as Ensar Oud!
Thus, I have transformed from a slight skeptic into a fan and am diligently saving for more artworks from this house!
As you can probably guess from my enthusiasm, Iris Ghalia was the beginning of my fascination with the artisan world - especially Ensar Oud. In the meantime, I own several other equally great Ensar Oud fragrances, as well as an additional 30ml bottle of Iris Ghalia.
After testing several Ensar Oud fragrances, I can say without a doubt that Iris Ghalia will always be among my absolute favorites from this house. A truly royal iris from the Sultan, perfectly showcased by Ensar Oud! A true Iris Ghalia!!!
First of all, I must say that I absolutely appreciate Iris as a fragrance note. I love that powdery, buttery yet earthy floral scent aura that surrounds you as soon as you spray fragrances with a high natural iris content. Since Iris Ghalia is supposed to be the spearhead here, I couldn't hold back any longer and had to get myself a bottle!
I still remember the day when the Iris Ghalia arrived at my home via express delivery. With trembling hands, I opened the package and the small Ensar Oud box inside. There it was - my first Ensar - a tiny 15 ml bottle with the silver inscription - Iris Ghalia. Not even two seconds later, I cautiously pressed the spray head and an extremely oily layer covered the back of my hand.
A few seconds later, something olfactorily followed that I could hardly believe. I got goosebumps, simply due to the beauty of this fragrance!
Yes - it starts off quite animalic due to the high content of natural animal ingredients like amber, musk, hyraceum, castoreum, and muskrat. However, the initially present iris, along with incredibly natural-smelling blackcurrant and peach notes, quickly dampens the initial animalic aspect, and Iris Ghalia becomes floral, fruity, and creamy within just 2-3 minutes, with an incredible sparkling - almost reminiscent of Coca-Cola - effervescence (probably from the Tibetan musk combined with amber).
The cola note, which I have also been able to detect in other Ensar Oud fragrances, is present throughout the entire long-lasting scent journey. Iris Ghalia becomes - I suspect due to the high iris content - increasingly syrupy, creating a play between iced tea peach and sparkling cola. The fragrance also becomes more floral with the iris and the prominent blue lotus! In the background, a present animalic aspect always lingers, ensuring that the scent never becomes too sweet. Overall, IG has an extreme progression and thus never becomes boring!
As is typical for Ensar, the ingredients are incredibly well intertwined, creating a true work of art! For a purely natural fragrance, this lasts extremely long. I get a good 10 hours of longevity, and the sillage is quite strong in the first few hours. Despite the present animalic notes, Iris Ghalia is definitely one of the most mass-appealing Ensar Ouds and can therefore be worn without hesitation to evening events in "Western spheres," without having to worry about being looked at askance!
In conclusion, I would like to make a small correction regarding the previously mentioned exaggerated marketing of EO: Now that I have gained some olfactory experience, I can say that you can truly smell the absolute high-end quality of Ensar Oud, and there are indeed very few, if any, perfume houses out there that possess such magnificent vintage ingredients and can showcase them as skillfully as Ensar Oud!
Thus, I have transformed from a slight skeptic into a fan and am diligently saving for more artworks from this house!
As you can probably guess from my enthusiasm, Iris Ghalia was the beginning of my fascination with the artisan world - especially Ensar Oud. In the meantime, I own several other equally great Ensar Oud fragrances, as well as an additional 30ml bottle of Iris Ghalia.
After testing several Ensar Oud fragrances, I can say without a doubt that Iris Ghalia will always be among my absolute favorites from this house. A truly royal iris from the Sultan, perfectly showcased by Ensar Oud! A true Iris Ghalia!!!
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The elegant, powdery, earthy Iris Dream!
My fragrance journey and the fascination that arose from it began for me in 2021. Although I had always been careful to wear a good perfume before that and had one or two bottles at home, I was far from having heard anything about niche perfumes or having built a perfume collection.
The height of my experience was a certain Prada L'Homme, from which I had completely emptied a 100ml bottle - back then, the bottles ran out quickly when you only used one perfume for all occasions. I loved the pleasantly powdery, clean note. A versatile weapon that probably appeals to almost every woman and man!
What I didn't know back then! There is so much more! Thus, L'Homme bridges to the fragrance I want to review today: Irisss....
About a year after my fascination with fragrances began and many tested niche scents later, it was finally time for the sample of Irisss!
I hoped that I had found a niche version of Prada L'Homme. At the same time, there was also considerable respect, as it was said to be nothing like the aforementioned designer. And yes, the reviewers were right! Something completely different awaited me!
Irisss starts with the namesake main actor (reportedly one of the highest concentrations of iris oil in the entire fragrance industry) alongside a juicy carrot note mixed with a beautifully present clove. Overall, this creates a buttery, soapy, floral, creamy scent impression. The carrot is never disturbing for me but rather complements the iris very well.
As the fragrance develops, the uniqueness comes into play: Due to the high iris content, the scent becomes earthier and darker. Thus, a fascinating mix of an elegant, soapy yet also earthy and quite dark fragrance emerges!
These various facets make it an absolute all-rounder!
For me, the scent is the epitome of unisex and is well suited as a daytime and evening fragrance.
It also fits well in every season. Only at temperatures beyond the 30-degree mark would it be a bit too powdery for me. The only personal limitation I impose: Due to its elegance, I wear Irisss almost exclusively when I put on a shirt. Then, in my opinion, it shines even more!
The price is already extremely high. However, if you consider that there is really as much iris oil contained as advertised - iris is, after all, one of the most expensive ingredients possible - this factor becomes more bearable. The quality offered, in my opinion, leaves no room for discussion, especially since I personally have not found a more affordable alternative with the same wonderful scent progression.
In conclusion, I would like to say that I still highly appreciate Prada L'Homme, but the true iris dream is hidden in the world of niche fragrances. The answer to when the search ends can only be answered by each person for themselves. For my nose, however, Irisss was already a bullseye and is thus allowed to move in with me!
The height of my experience was a certain Prada L'Homme, from which I had completely emptied a 100ml bottle - back then, the bottles ran out quickly when you only used one perfume for all occasions. I loved the pleasantly powdery, clean note. A versatile weapon that probably appeals to almost every woman and man!
What I didn't know back then! There is so much more! Thus, L'Homme bridges to the fragrance I want to review today: Irisss....
About a year after my fascination with fragrances began and many tested niche scents later, it was finally time for the sample of Irisss!
I hoped that I had found a niche version of Prada L'Homme. At the same time, there was also considerable respect, as it was said to be nothing like the aforementioned designer. And yes, the reviewers were right! Something completely different awaited me!
Irisss starts with the namesake main actor (reportedly one of the highest concentrations of iris oil in the entire fragrance industry) alongside a juicy carrot note mixed with a beautifully present clove. Overall, this creates a buttery, soapy, floral, creamy scent impression. The carrot is never disturbing for me but rather complements the iris very well.
As the fragrance develops, the uniqueness comes into play: Due to the high iris content, the scent becomes earthier and darker. Thus, a fascinating mix of an elegant, soapy yet also earthy and quite dark fragrance emerges!
These various facets make it an absolute all-rounder!
For me, the scent is the epitome of unisex and is well suited as a daytime and evening fragrance.
It also fits well in every season. Only at temperatures beyond the 30-degree mark would it be a bit too powdery for me. The only personal limitation I impose: Due to its elegance, I wear Irisss almost exclusively when I put on a shirt. Then, in my opinion, it shines even more!
The price is already extremely high. However, if you consider that there is really as much iris oil contained as advertised - iris is, after all, one of the most expensive ingredients possible - this factor becomes more bearable. The quality offered, in my opinion, leaves no room for discussion, especially since I personally have not found a more affordable alternative with the same wonderful scent progression.
In conclusion, I would like to say that I still highly appreciate Prada L'Homme, but the true iris dream is hidden in the world of niche fragrances. The answer to when the search ends can only be answered by each person for themselves. For my nose, however, Irisss was already a bullseye and is thus allowed to move in with me!
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Alexandria Orientale - the "Niche"
The Alexandria family at Xerjoff is quite large, as is well known. There is the legendary Alexandria I, which is probably one of the least smelled by many. Then there is the "Crowd Pleaser" Alexandria II and the "Rose King" Alexandria III. The family is completed by the exclusive Imperiale and the "released" Alexandria Orientale, which is the focus here.
The Orientale starts with an intense Oud note - probably the reason for its name - paired with apple and a good portion of incense. I also perceive a prominent coriander note almost throughout. The rose plays a subordinate role compared to Alexandria II and especially III, but is still detectable.
As time goes on, the initial Oud spectacle recedes and the fragrance becomes sweeter and slightly powdery. This is likely due to the combination of iris, amber, and vanilla. After several hours - we are talking about 10 hours plus - the scent fades very fresh.
My highlight and the reason why I treated myself to a 50ml bottle is that the Alexandria Orientale, despite its sweetness in the drydown, never becomes too heavy. It always remains airy and yet has power! It approaches its brothers, but without losing its individuality.
In contrast to Alexandria II and III, I find it more challenging, and it can be somewhat overwhelming for untrained noses, especially in the first few minutes. This aspect is what draws me to niche fragrances!
The quality is very good, as is typical for Xerjoff. How much real Oud is actually used leaves room for discussion. I dare say that the Bortnikoffs, Areejs, and Ensars of this world still take it up a notch, which is also reflected in the price. Overall, you can definitely smell the excellent quality in the Alexandria Orientale!
The longevity is very good, although interestingly, compared to other longevity monsters, I am not overwhelmed. I perceive it from time to time, but I do not constantly smell the Orientale on me.
The sillage is more subdued than with its brothers, which I appreciate!
The versatility of use is quite broad, although I personally spray the Orientale mostly in the evenings during leisure time or for going out. As a daytime and especially office scent, it is a bit too niche for me! Since it always remains airy, it can definitely be worn in spring and late summer. In my opinion, it shines particularly in winter and autumn.
In conclusion, I would say that I consider the Orientale to be the most special Alexandria. The one that dances a bit out of line and does not have to please everyone. A niche fragrance to fall in love with....
The Orientale starts with an intense Oud note - probably the reason for its name - paired with apple and a good portion of incense. I also perceive a prominent coriander note almost throughout. The rose plays a subordinate role compared to Alexandria II and especially III, but is still detectable.
As time goes on, the initial Oud spectacle recedes and the fragrance becomes sweeter and slightly powdery. This is likely due to the combination of iris, amber, and vanilla. After several hours - we are talking about 10 hours plus - the scent fades very fresh.
My highlight and the reason why I treated myself to a 50ml bottle is that the Alexandria Orientale, despite its sweetness in the drydown, never becomes too heavy. It always remains airy and yet has power! It approaches its brothers, but without losing its individuality.
In contrast to Alexandria II and III, I find it more challenging, and it can be somewhat overwhelming for untrained noses, especially in the first few minutes. This aspect is what draws me to niche fragrances!
The quality is very good, as is typical for Xerjoff. How much real Oud is actually used leaves room for discussion. I dare say that the Bortnikoffs, Areejs, and Ensars of this world still take it up a notch, which is also reflected in the price. Overall, you can definitely smell the excellent quality in the Alexandria Orientale!
The longevity is very good, although interestingly, compared to other longevity monsters, I am not overwhelmed. I perceive it from time to time, but I do not constantly smell the Orientale on me.
The sillage is more subdued than with its brothers, which I appreciate!
The versatility of use is quite broad, although I personally spray the Orientale mostly in the evenings during leisure time or for going out. As a daytime and especially office scent, it is a bit too niche for me! Since it always remains airy, it can definitely be worn in spring and late summer. In my opinion, it shines particularly in winter and autumn.
In conclusion, I would say that I consider the Orientale to be the most special Alexandria. The one that dances a bit out of line and does not have to please everyone. A niche fragrance to fall in love with....
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Balsamic, Sweet Gentleman’s Oud
As someone who appreciates Oud and several non-Oud Star Xerjoffs, I simply couldn't resist testing the Oud Stars line. So, I organized samples of Fars, Alexandria II, Alexandria Orientale, and Malesia for the first time. Excited, I began testing diligently upon receiving them.
I perceived the latter as the underdog regarding a bottle purchase due to the fragrance pyramid and previous reviews.
However, I was mistaken, and to the detriment of my bank account, it ended up with a 50ml bottle that has enriched my collection since early December 2022!
Now, let me briefly explain why: Right off the bat, Malesia is certainly the quietest and most unobtrusive scent compared to the other representatives mentioned above!
Malesia starts quite fresh and floral, with a subtle but still noticeable Oud note. Relatively quickly, a pleasant sweetness emerges through the tonka bean and vanilla. The musk takes command over time, and overall, it becomes, in my view, an incredibly beautiful, balanced, balsamic Oud-musk scent!
What is truly special, and what also influenced my decision to purchase a bottle, is the wearability and versatility of Malesia. Its unobtrusive nature makes it quite suitable for daytime wear, while it can also be used very well as an evening scent. The longevity is decent at around 8 hours on my skin. The sillage is rather restrained, especially when compared to other Oud Stars! However, I don't find that bothersome at all, as Malesia can even be worn as an office scent!
So far, I have only been able to wear it in winter, but I will definitely spray Malesia in spring and autumn as well. Only in the high summer with temperatures above 25 degrees would it be too sweet for me!
Like all Xerjoffs from the Oud Stars line, Malesia is anything but a bargain if purchased at the regular price. However, I believe that for your money, you get a very high-quality and unique scent.
The balsamic, sweet, versatile Oud star!
A scent for the gentleman mode...
I perceived the latter as the underdog regarding a bottle purchase due to the fragrance pyramid and previous reviews.
However, I was mistaken, and to the detriment of my bank account, it ended up with a 50ml bottle that has enriched my collection since early December 2022!
Now, let me briefly explain why: Right off the bat, Malesia is certainly the quietest and most unobtrusive scent compared to the other representatives mentioned above!
Malesia starts quite fresh and floral, with a subtle but still noticeable Oud note. Relatively quickly, a pleasant sweetness emerges through the tonka bean and vanilla. The musk takes command over time, and overall, it becomes, in my view, an incredibly beautiful, balanced, balsamic Oud-musk scent!
What is truly special, and what also influenced my decision to purchase a bottle, is the wearability and versatility of Malesia. Its unobtrusive nature makes it quite suitable for daytime wear, while it can also be used very well as an evening scent. The longevity is decent at around 8 hours on my skin. The sillage is rather restrained, especially when compared to other Oud Stars! However, I don't find that bothersome at all, as Malesia can even be worn as an office scent!
So far, I have only been able to wear it in winter, but I will definitely spray Malesia in spring and autumn as well. Only in the high summer with temperatures above 25 degrees would it be too sweet for me!
Like all Xerjoffs from the Oud Stars line, Malesia is anything but a bargain if purchased at the regular price. However, I believe that for your money, you get a very high-quality and unique scent.
The balsamic, sweet, versatile Oud star!
A scent for the gentleman mode...
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The Aquatic That Dances to Its Own Tune
There are fragrances that you immediately associate with certain situations. According to Xerjoff, the scent is meant to evoke a yacht club. Personally, I find it very fitting, even though I have never been to a yacht club!
With 40 Knots, I quickly found myself in a situation reminiscent of warm summer nights, the sea, and dining in a beautiful high-class restaurant by the beach after my first sniff!
It is probably the salty yet by no means synthetic opening that instantly brings to mind days and nights by the sea. Relatively quickly, a light sweetness emerges, which steers 40 Knots away from a classic aquatic towards a woody, sweet scent. In the drydown, it becomes powdery without losing the connection to the "salty." The powdery and sweet drydown gives me the impression that there must also be amber notes present.
A quick side note: At the airport in Istanbul, I was able to test Dior's Ambre Nuit, and I definitely noticed some parallels to 40 Knots in my scent memory! 40 Knots plays more with salty, maritime notes, while Ambre Nuit focuses on rose.
The longevity of 40 Knots is good - it lasts about 8-9 hours, and the sillage is in the upper mid-range. It won't overwhelm anyone, but it will certainly be noticed.
The versatility of use is quite broad. Personally, I mainly wear 40 Knots in the summer and early autumn for a nice dinner - unfortunately not at a yacht club - or on vacation during a lovely beach stroll in the later hours! As a classic daytime scent, it is too special for me, but that is something everyone must decide for themselves!
The listed normal price is unfortunately, as is typical for Xerjoff, quite steep! However, sometimes 40 Knots can be found on sale for around 150 euros for 50ml. For the quality, the promotional price is definitely justified!
Overall, I find 40 Knots to be a very exciting fragrance that combines both the salty and the woody and sweet, making it an aquatic that dances to its own tune - one of so many top scents from the house of Xerjoff!
With 40 Knots, I quickly found myself in a situation reminiscent of warm summer nights, the sea, and dining in a beautiful high-class restaurant by the beach after my first sniff!
It is probably the salty yet by no means synthetic opening that instantly brings to mind days and nights by the sea. Relatively quickly, a light sweetness emerges, which steers 40 Knots away from a classic aquatic towards a woody, sweet scent. In the drydown, it becomes powdery without losing the connection to the "salty." The powdery and sweet drydown gives me the impression that there must also be amber notes present.
A quick side note: At the airport in Istanbul, I was able to test Dior's Ambre Nuit, and I definitely noticed some parallels to 40 Knots in my scent memory! 40 Knots plays more with salty, maritime notes, while Ambre Nuit focuses on rose.
The longevity of 40 Knots is good - it lasts about 8-9 hours, and the sillage is in the upper mid-range. It won't overwhelm anyone, but it will certainly be noticed.
The versatility of use is quite broad. Personally, I mainly wear 40 Knots in the summer and early autumn for a nice dinner - unfortunately not at a yacht club - or on vacation during a lovely beach stroll in the later hours! As a classic daytime scent, it is too special for me, but that is something everyone must decide for themselves!
The listed normal price is unfortunately, as is typical for Xerjoff, quite steep! However, sometimes 40 Knots can be found on sale for around 150 euros for 50ml. For the quality, the promotional price is definitely justified!
Overall, I find 40 Knots to be a very exciting fragrance that combines both the salty and the woody and sweet, making it an aquatic that dances to its own tune - one of so many top scents from the house of Xerjoff!
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