Strehliwood
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Self-Pity - This is the most beautiful season…
„…much more beautiful than winter depression, because you only benefit from that in winter“ (Christian Steiffen)
(Comment or blog - I chose the former to describe the path to Mod1. If this is too long (boring) for you, please jump to the last paragraph...)
My gaze drifts back to the year 2013, long before my time at Parfumo and yet the origin of my registration here in 2016. After many years of loyalty to the fragrance house Azzaro, I bought my first bottle of Aventus, 75ml…for way too much money, at the recommendation of a nice employee in a perfumery at the beginning of 2014. I was just so blown away that I absolutely had to have the scent. Before that, I had only experienced something similar in the mid-90s with Azzaro's Acteur. I was very sparing with it; two sprays had to be enough - and they were. From then on, I received compliments non-stop. During the day, I alternated it with Dolce di Giorno and my remaining Azzaro stocks, and when going out in the evening, it was always on me. I remember two episodes - they date back to 2015 when a shooting trip took me to Santorini. The hotel receptionist was so delighted with my wonderful scent that she sniffed me daily ;). On the way home, a little leaked from the remaining bottle because the closure of the first series was somewhat prone to that. The smell clung to my wash bag so much that I can still perceive its smooth smokiness today.
When the bottle was empty, I was so hooked - and convinced that there must be many other gems to discover in the fragrance cosmos. In May 2016, I registered here at Parfumo. And indeed, I discovered many new wonderful scents. With the usual consistency, the attachment to 1-3 fragrances was over from then on. At some point, the longing became so great that I acquired a new Aventus in SOUK at the end of 2016. What struck me immediately was the fact that it lacked the smokiness. At first, it smelled just like I remembered Aventus, but it never developed that wonderful symbiosis of smoke and pineapple that I knew - and suddenly missed terribly. Initially, I thought my nose was playing tricks on me - but there was the wash bag, which reminded me of my first bottle every time. And so it was only a matter of time before I stumbled upon the batch discussion. Now I was really hooked. I got samples of later Aventus batches (unfortunately, I didn't even know the batch of my first bottle) and various clones. However, I never got back to my original Aventus, which saddened me. Why can't such a renowned perfume house like Creed maintain the quality? I sold the fruity Aventus again, and an extended Aventus-free period began.
At some point, I became aware of DUA Fragrances and their Aventus field trials. I tried the 13ZZ (I still don't know the 11Z). The 13ZZ didn't appeal to me much. I discussed the topic with Maggy4U, who recommended that I test the 11Z and told me about DUA's “Poseidon’s Elixir Remixed MOD1.” The idea behind it is the attempt to combine the fruitiness of the early Aventus series around 2011 with the smokiness of the following series around 2013. What the heck, I thought, I'll test it and ordered the MOD1 from DUA Fragrances. Skeptically, I pressed the sprayer on the cheap-looking bottle. On the left arm was a fruity Aventus from some newer series - and on the right, the Mod1. At first impression, the fruity candidate smelled more harmonious, while the Mod1 seemed somewhat incomplete - as if the components didn't quite want to come together. I didn't remember my original Aventus like that. My skepticism seemed to be confirmed - “cheap bottle, cheap result.” But far from it! After about an hour, I could hardly believe my nose. While the fruity representative was already significantly closer to the skin and almost smoke-free, pineapple and smoke in Mod1 paired with a brutal harmony and created an extremely long-lasting scent (>12h) with room-filling sillage. From then on, it was off into the now two-week-long field trial, sports, work, etc… and there they were again, the compliments. Yes, I am happy and satisfied with the result of the MOD1 - the test of the 11Z is still on the agenda. It remains exciting :)
Edit: Now I have also tested the significantly fruitier 11Z. The same DUA DNA, which makes no prisoners, but I miss the smoke of the perfectly executed MOD 1 here.
(Comment or blog - I chose the former to describe the path to Mod1. If this is too long (boring) for you, please jump to the last paragraph...)
My gaze drifts back to the year 2013, long before my time at Parfumo and yet the origin of my registration here in 2016. After many years of loyalty to the fragrance house Azzaro, I bought my first bottle of Aventus, 75ml…for way too much money, at the recommendation of a nice employee in a perfumery at the beginning of 2014. I was just so blown away that I absolutely had to have the scent. Before that, I had only experienced something similar in the mid-90s with Azzaro's Acteur. I was very sparing with it; two sprays had to be enough - and they were. From then on, I received compliments non-stop. During the day, I alternated it with Dolce di Giorno and my remaining Azzaro stocks, and when going out in the evening, it was always on me. I remember two episodes - they date back to 2015 when a shooting trip took me to Santorini. The hotel receptionist was so delighted with my wonderful scent that she sniffed me daily ;). On the way home, a little leaked from the remaining bottle because the closure of the first series was somewhat prone to that. The smell clung to my wash bag so much that I can still perceive its smooth smokiness today.
When the bottle was empty, I was so hooked - and convinced that there must be many other gems to discover in the fragrance cosmos. In May 2016, I registered here at Parfumo. And indeed, I discovered many new wonderful scents. With the usual consistency, the attachment to 1-3 fragrances was over from then on. At some point, the longing became so great that I acquired a new Aventus in SOUK at the end of 2016. What struck me immediately was the fact that it lacked the smokiness. At first, it smelled just like I remembered Aventus, but it never developed that wonderful symbiosis of smoke and pineapple that I knew - and suddenly missed terribly. Initially, I thought my nose was playing tricks on me - but there was the wash bag, which reminded me of my first bottle every time. And so it was only a matter of time before I stumbled upon the batch discussion. Now I was really hooked. I got samples of later Aventus batches (unfortunately, I didn't even know the batch of my first bottle) and various clones. However, I never got back to my original Aventus, which saddened me. Why can't such a renowned perfume house like Creed maintain the quality? I sold the fruity Aventus again, and an extended Aventus-free period began.
At some point, I became aware of DUA Fragrances and their Aventus field trials. I tried the 13ZZ (I still don't know the 11Z). The 13ZZ didn't appeal to me much. I discussed the topic with Maggy4U, who recommended that I test the 11Z and told me about DUA's “Poseidon’s Elixir Remixed MOD1.” The idea behind it is the attempt to combine the fruitiness of the early Aventus series around 2011 with the smokiness of the following series around 2013. What the heck, I thought, I'll test it and ordered the MOD1 from DUA Fragrances. Skeptically, I pressed the sprayer on the cheap-looking bottle. On the left arm was a fruity Aventus from some newer series - and on the right, the Mod1. At first impression, the fruity candidate smelled more harmonious, while the Mod1 seemed somewhat incomplete - as if the components didn't quite want to come together. I didn't remember my original Aventus like that. My skepticism seemed to be confirmed - “cheap bottle, cheap result.” But far from it! After about an hour, I could hardly believe my nose. While the fruity representative was already significantly closer to the skin and almost smoke-free, pineapple and smoke in Mod1 paired with a brutal harmony and created an extremely long-lasting scent (>12h) with room-filling sillage. From then on, it was off into the now two-week-long field trial, sports, work, etc… and there they were again, the compliments. Yes, I am happy and satisfied with the result of the MOD1 - the test of the 11Z is still on the agenda. It remains exciting :)
Edit: Now I have also tested the significantly fruitier 11Z. The same DUA DNA, which makes no prisoners, but I miss the smoke of the perfectly executed MOD 1 here.
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Translated · Show original
Persistence is the Path to Tradition
Hasty decisions and a constant desire for change are just as little part of my personality as, for example, the wish to always own the newest car. Instead, I sometimes observe with a mix of satisfaction and wonder, steering my 22-year-old car, the hectic hustle and bustle around me. Good things are worth preserving - and sometimes rediscovering… The past fascinates me :).
So I am interested in scents and their timeless secrets, whether reformulated or not - I want to make their acquaintance.
We are in the year 1931, during the time of the Great Depression. The electron microscope and the first "living car" (motorhome) are introduced - and little Mikhail Gorbachev sees the light of day. I try to see the scents in their temporal context - this time the "Epices" from the house of L.T. Piver (since 1774).
I must mention that the fragrance pyramid provided here is not complete. The "Epices" is undoubtedly complex (Yagatan speaks of a spice cocktail), yet none of the ingredients pushes forward throughout its duration - rather, all participants harmonize so splendidly with each other, like musicians in a large orchestra. The components are so finely interwoven that together they create a wonderfully balanced scent. The yawning that sets in immediately after application, when citrus notes still dominate, gives way to an increasing curiosity for me as the fragrance develops…YES! - There is something to discover here! I make the acquaintance of cedar, which pulls back just in time before the often annoying pencil-like quality takes over. Its ambitions are curbed by the baton of sandalwood with a peppery hint of cinnamon and allspice. The flinching of some readers at the word cinnamon is just as unfounded as the eye-rolling of those who dislike pepper or allspice & cloves - everything is present in moderation. After a few hours, vetiver takes on a stronger role and provides my nose with a gentle grounding. At the same time, it engages in a duet with light musk and conjures, likely with amber, a wonderfully soothing warmth. In the later development of the fragrance, I occasionally have an association with "Silver Musk".
A truly exciting and friendly scent, not a sillage monster, I rate this a solid 7.5 in this category. What is stunning about the "Epices" is its longevity. After 10 hours, it is closer to the skin, but still clearly perceptible on the wrist when waving around.
Although I cannot yet look back on a four-digit test series, I have not smelled a similar scent before. It could perhaps be a distant relative of "Obsession for Men", although a direct comparison is not permissible. The rather masculine orientation of the symbolism is rightly carried by the "Epices" for me.
Compared to Yagatan's photo, the bottle has hardly changed, only the cap has become a bit more delicate and the ship with its set sails has given way to a lovingly simple design. For me, it is already a favorite due to its lack of affectation. The feel and function of the spray unit are without any faults.
Thank you L.T. Piver for the time travel and the experience of "Epices" - my testing recommendation!
So I am interested in scents and their timeless secrets, whether reformulated or not - I want to make their acquaintance.
We are in the year 1931, during the time of the Great Depression. The electron microscope and the first "living car" (motorhome) are introduced - and little Mikhail Gorbachev sees the light of day. I try to see the scents in their temporal context - this time the "Epices" from the house of L.T. Piver (since 1774).
I must mention that the fragrance pyramid provided here is not complete. The "Epices" is undoubtedly complex (Yagatan speaks of a spice cocktail), yet none of the ingredients pushes forward throughout its duration - rather, all participants harmonize so splendidly with each other, like musicians in a large orchestra. The components are so finely interwoven that together they create a wonderfully balanced scent. The yawning that sets in immediately after application, when citrus notes still dominate, gives way to an increasing curiosity for me as the fragrance develops…YES! - There is something to discover here! I make the acquaintance of cedar, which pulls back just in time before the often annoying pencil-like quality takes over. Its ambitions are curbed by the baton of sandalwood with a peppery hint of cinnamon and allspice. The flinching of some readers at the word cinnamon is just as unfounded as the eye-rolling of those who dislike pepper or allspice & cloves - everything is present in moderation. After a few hours, vetiver takes on a stronger role and provides my nose with a gentle grounding. At the same time, it engages in a duet with light musk and conjures, likely with amber, a wonderfully soothing warmth. In the later development of the fragrance, I occasionally have an association with "Silver Musk".
A truly exciting and friendly scent, not a sillage monster, I rate this a solid 7.5 in this category. What is stunning about the "Epices" is its longevity. After 10 hours, it is closer to the skin, but still clearly perceptible on the wrist when waving around.
Although I cannot yet look back on a four-digit test series, I have not smelled a similar scent before. It could perhaps be a distant relative of "Obsession for Men", although a direct comparison is not permissible. The rather masculine orientation of the symbolism is rightly carried by the "Epices" for me.
Compared to Yagatan's photo, the bottle has hardly changed, only the cap has become a bit more delicate and the ship with its set sails has given way to a lovingly simple design. For me, it is already a favorite due to its lack of affectation. The feel and function of the spray unit are without any faults.
Thank you L.T. Piver for the time travel and the experience of "Epices" - my testing recommendation!
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Translated · Show original
In the Name of the Moss Rose
“To the Rose”
Forever carried in the womb,
Sweet queen of the meadow!
You and I, the silent, great,
All-reviving Nature;
Little rose! our adornment ages,
Storms strip you and me bare,
Yet the eternal core unfolds
Soon to a new bloom.
(Hölderlin)
This, my first review, is in a way the continuation of my blog post “In the Name of the Rose.” The Acteur, this undoubtedly olfactory masterpiece, has accompanied me for almost 25 years now - thus I have had enough time to engage with it in various life situations (not a three-time wrist test). Sometimes it is my parachute and sometimes my powerful engine; with it, I can dream and be creative, it is at all times the perfect and enduring companion. Out of 10 possible points, it gets a solid 11.
Even though I still find it difficult to mentally break down scents into their individual components (who can really do that without just piecing something together from the fragrance pyramid?), the prominent main themes of the scent are rose and moss, refined with spicy and woody nuances.
Now, it is not so easy to create a masculine scent with rose without making the rose too dominant. The Acteur offers us, in a way, an indirect rose nestled in soft moss.
Undoubtedly, a certain self-confidence is needed for a man to wear a rose scent at all, but that is exactly what the Acteur makes easy with its modified rose. Just as if it were translating the theme of rose into the masculine, it invites: "Wear me and engage with me - and you will seduce whomever you want." For some, it remains a riddle - the wearer remains the magician.
What would I give to learn something about the motivation of the perfumer Maurice Maurin, who created the scent in 1989. Is it perhaps an ode to old rose varieties, like the moss rose? The most beautiful of all moss rose cultivars was achieved by the French breeder Vibert in 1825. Wikipedia notes about the group of moss roses: “Curly parsley, green leaf growths, and the oil glands make the calyx and flower stems look mossy. This mossing, especially of the opening bud, gives this old rose its special charm for lovers. The sticky resin smells very spicy when you rub the leaves and stems between your fingers. Once often found in traditional farmhouse gardens, they are now somewhat rarer in gardens. Painted depictions on old porcelain still testify to the former popularity of moss roses.” I love these magnificent roses with their thick and dense flower clusters. Sometimes you still see them in gardens. On my frequent trips to Bavaria and Austria, I often encounter them on historical farmhouse furniture, paintings, and porcelain.
Ohhh - I got sidetracked ;)
Back to the scent - In my opinion, the Acteur requires dedication from the wearer; it wants to be understood. Those who engage with it and accept it become the Acteur.
The sillage is above average, as is the longevity. Admittedly, it takes a little time at the beginning for it to show its full strength and for the components to unite in perfect harmony. Then it becomes softer and rounder, without ever losing its character. The scent lasts well for about 8 hours on me.
Still incomprehensible to me, the scent was discontinued years ago. On eBay, you can occasionally find a (usually hopelessly overpriced) bottle, but I would advise against miniatures. I have stretched my feelers wide, and should soon receive generous supplies. Let’s see if it is still in good quality. Maybe it will be enough for a sharing :).
The Acteur bows - and I give it a standing ovation. You are welcome to join in ;)
Forever carried in the womb,
Sweet queen of the meadow!
You and I, the silent, great,
All-reviving Nature;
Little rose! our adornment ages,
Storms strip you and me bare,
Yet the eternal core unfolds
Soon to a new bloom.
(Hölderlin)
This, my first review, is in a way the continuation of my blog post “In the Name of the Rose.” The Acteur, this undoubtedly olfactory masterpiece, has accompanied me for almost 25 years now - thus I have had enough time to engage with it in various life situations (not a three-time wrist test). Sometimes it is my parachute and sometimes my powerful engine; with it, I can dream and be creative, it is at all times the perfect and enduring companion. Out of 10 possible points, it gets a solid 11.
Even though I still find it difficult to mentally break down scents into their individual components (who can really do that without just piecing something together from the fragrance pyramid?), the prominent main themes of the scent are rose and moss, refined with spicy and woody nuances.
Now, it is not so easy to create a masculine scent with rose without making the rose too dominant. The Acteur offers us, in a way, an indirect rose nestled in soft moss.
Undoubtedly, a certain self-confidence is needed for a man to wear a rose scent at all, but that is exactly what the Acteur makes easy with its modified rose. Just as if it were translating the theme of rose into the masculine, it invites: "Wear me and engage with me - and you will seduce whomever you want." For some, it remains a riddle - the wearer remains the magician.
What would I give to learn something about the motivation of the perfumer Maurice Maurin, who created the scent in 1989. Is it perhaps an ode to old rose varieties, like the moss rose? The most beautiful of all moss rose cultivars was achieved by the French breeder Vibert in 1825. Wikipedia notes about the group of moss roses: “Curly parsley, green leaf growths, and the oil glands make the calyx and flower stems look mossy. This mossing, especially of the opening bud, gives this old rose its special charm for lovers. The sticky resin smells very spicy when you rub the leaves and stems between your fingers. Once often found in traditional farmhouse gardens, they are now somewhat rarer in gardens. Painted depictions on old porcelain still testify to the former popularity of moss roses.” I love these magnificent roses with their thick and dense flower clusters. Sometimes you still see them in gardens. On my frequent trips to Bavaria and Austria, I often encounter them on historical farmhouse furniture, paintings, and porcelain.
Ohhh - I got sidetracked ;)
Back to the scent - In my opinion, the Acteur requires dedication from the wearer; it wants to be understood. Those who engage with it and accept it become the Acteur.
The sillage is above average, as is the longevity. Admittedly, it takes a little time at the beginning for it to show its full strength and for the components to unite in perfect harmony. Then it becomes softer and rounder, without ever losing its character. The scent lasts well for about 8 hours on me.
Still incomprehensible to me, the scent was discontinued years ago. On eBay, you can occasionally find a (usually hopelessly overpriced) bottle, but I would advise against miniatures. I have stretched my feelers wide, and should soon receive generous supplies. Let’s see if it is still in good quality. Maybe it will be enough for a sharing :).
The Acteur bows - and I give it a standing ovation. You are welcome to join in ;)
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