Stulle

Stulle

Reviews
Filter & sort
6 - 10 by 11
Stulle 3 years ago 38 17
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Shyce on it - Malle's only once a year
Actually I wanted to get rid of here only times a small history of the Balearic Islands.

After I successfully refused to visit these islands all my life for reasons of foreign embarrassment, I finally let myself be persuaded a few years ago by vehemently insisting Spanish friends to spend a few days in their cottage in a small and quiet village in Mallorca.

What can I say: deepest, cold and dark winter in Germany, but spring on Malle - a dream. I spare you further details in these somewhat travel-restricted times, although already the great Joseph Hader knew: "The imagination grows with the limitation of possibilities" (or something like that).

The abandoned tourist strongholds only once quickly driving through to know how it looks there, we spent most of the time in nature. Behind our little village it went right into the mountains, and our extended walks led us past an old Palacio, near which were fields with tons of orange trees. There was of course picked from the tree, eaten and packed what could only so, because these gardens were quite obviously no longer managed for years.

Sitting by the fireplace of the old, cozy farmhouse in the early evening, there was then storytelling, laughter, dinner planning, and eating from the freshly picked oranges.

The problem with my Spanish is that I guess I speak it too well to get any great consideration, but too poorly to catch any detail thrown sideways out of the corner of my mouth.
The definitive piece of information I missed this round was, "Eat all the oranges you want, but not THAT ONE there, that's an inedible bitter orange."

[SLOWMOTION]

....in which I peel in slow motion this very bitter orange, look at it drooling with pleasure, and then bite into it with the greatest delight....

[END SLOWMOTION]

What followed was an incredibly powerful physical experience, probably comparable in intensity to few legal things. No, no, it was not intoxication, but: this simply inconceivable bitterness that gripped my body was so gross that EVERY single hair of my body stood upright.

My hair, which was only moderately luxuriant, stood up steeply in the air. The bitterness gripped me with massive force, every millimeter of skin - and it was so unbelievable that I had the most legendary, tearful laughing fit of my life. Speaking due to the laughing fit was absolutely impossible for five interminable minutes.

Of course, due to my impaired articulation, I couldn't explain to anyone what had happened, and then when I could halfway breathe again, I pointed to the orange remnants laughing, sniffling, and snorting. And then it started all over again, because everyone suddenly understood what had happened and lay bawling on the floor. Sure, every Iberian knows of course that you can NOT eat these things.

Well, anyway, the evening was henceforth for me in orange light dipped and my Mallorcaaufenthalt had found another, if not THE highlight.


¿But how smells then now CHINOTTO DI LIGURIA?

Bitter orange with a tart and juicy fruitiness everywhere, but no orange juice note (as for example with Orange Sanguine by AC), which often leaves me cold. Immediately, the dark floral and aromatic fullness of jasmine flowers also comes into play, which reminds me a bit of the warmth of AZZARO pH.
That one probably smelled completely different than I remember it, but I always associated with it a poignant and warm physicality that is also cited by CHINOTTO DI LIGURIA.

Soft musk rounds the fragrance down, but at no time takes away the pinch of masculinity with its clear, but not overpowering patchouli note. This is also the part of the fragrance, which makes him for me no longer seem so right lady-compatible, but that decides yes each nose quite subjectively for themselves alone.
The patchouli, by the way, I only really notice when I wear the fragrance exceptionally on the skin. Otherwise, I prefer to wear on textile; on the one hand, to protect the body & the skin, on the other hand, the fragrance then retains by far longer the freshness and acidity of the wonderful top notes.

AdP has some beautiful fragrances at the start, besides BERGAMOTO DI CALABRIA (the Mrs. Stulle has torn under the nails) CHINOTTO DI LIGURIA is in any case so far my favorite
17 Comments
Stulle 3 years ago 57 24
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Time Travel
In the late eighties, ceramic scent lamps were very fashionable. At the bottom you put a tea light in, at the top you put some water in a bowl to evaporate and then you added a few drops of scented oil. I actually only remember ylang-ylang, which created a numbingly heavy but insanely fascinating and erotic atmosphere.

Now I've smelled TAM DAO for the first time, and it has flung me back to that era unabated - sandalwood was, of course, the most popular scent for those little lights! May contemporaries correct me, but I think 90% of all young ladies had one of these in their chambers. No visit to the adored/adored creatures without a tea light flickering and occasionally, in the heat of, er, discussion, completely forgetting to light a new one after it went out.

It is also entirely within the realm of possibility that a not inconsiderable number of our younger perfumos were conceived to this very scent. Perhaps the sandalwood children could just get this almost incidental information out of their parents for me without any obligation...

But not everything was so romantic at the time. I had a colleague with whom I started an apprenticeship at the same time after graduating from high school. Sympathy at first sight, and M. was a funny, but at the same time also in itself resting person, with which one did not come at all into the proximity of an argument. Night-long discussions about God and the world, as they are just standard at this age.

Since just at the transition to the nineties the triumphant advance of the personal computer began and M. was not quite unfortunate from home, he had of course such a box in the apartment (wow, he had his own apartment, while all friends of the same age still had to live with parents!). So we spent many days and nights with the then brand new game MONKEY ISLAND! With the obsessive potential we both had, weeks went by before we had played through the game (there were no tutorials to be found online yet). And in the background, non-stop, the eternally simmering fragrance lamp with - sandalwood oil!

As life is then, we parted ways. I had my plans, and M. dümpeln so a bit in a "decent" job. Life purpose was not, but good money, and so he could then every weekend a little too much drinking over the villages and through the (small) cities and let it rip. Occasionally and with growing frequency then also on weekdays and in the morning.
At some point they stopped seeing each other, but I heard much later that he had been out too much with strange people. More, much more alcohol and plenty of drugs; his psyche only took it all to a certain point, and at some point he couldn't take it anymore. And then he didn't want to.

*

They say that someone still exists as long as a person thinks about them. That's what I'm doing, and I'm putting an imaginary stone on your grave, which I never saw, dear M.

*

TAM DAO is just that deep and warm sandalwood smell that reminds me of the intense time of that friendship, of growing up, of existential questions, of doubting and guessing, of unbridled curiosity, of an uncertain, exciting future, and also of another very long and very intense love story.
The perfume has a light, cypress and woody tone and remains relatively unsweet on me. Nothing distracting, everything fits and makes sense, to me it seems structured and transparent. Just as when you look back into the past, you can suddenly see clearly the path you have walked until today.

I did not even know until now that I can like sandalwood so well and have also experienced no fragrance of this orientation so emotional and moving. Wat nu? 10 points for the time travel, 8.5 points already for the fragrance - a bottling must be here to trace this fascination even further.

To the old times!
24 Comments
Stulle 4 years ago 31 15
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
8
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Men's tonka bean
First of all it should be noted that I am not so good with very sweet scents. I like to smell them, but most of them turn into syrup on my skin or clothes. That's why I had reservations about testing L'Homme Ideal at all - based on some comments I expected some really bad stuff. However, to my great surprise, this EdT does not turn out to be so sweet in my tests at all.

It begins fresh, minimally citric, and is accompanied by a slight orange blossom - usually one of my nerve candidates - thankfully in a restrained dosage. Aha, so that's how unobtrusive you can do it.

Halfway swiftly Tonkabohne takes over the direction, in addition I perceive a very self-confident heliotropic-almond note. The astonishing thing for me is that this combination does NOT become overly sweet; the expected sticky turgidity is intercepted in time by dry notes, which I think I can identify as vetiver and some iso-E super cedar.

In the further course, the two base notes mentioned keep the fragrance consistently upright & clean and do not allow it to become an overly sugary broth. I somehow think of two strict lifeguards at the edge of the pool, who send the loudly bawling and annoying screaming necks into the paddling pool and/or immediately back into the changing room. Or something like that.

Even after hours, I still feel the above-mentioned structure (T-bean/cedar/vetiver) and believe that Guerlain's trick is exactly that: to create a tonka bean fragrance for men that doesn't become a grumpy gourmand, but retains a certain dignity.

I find the Sillage quite good, but not as overpowering as some other gourmand fragrances (e.g. the Mugler brand). That in turn makes LHI very socially acceptable. The shelf life is also good and the fragrance can be perceived from morning to early evening. The feedback from the environment is quite positive; however, if I need more volume and attention, I can resort to something else.

My personal insight:
the expectation of a gourmet due to the usual suspicious scents (here especially Tonka) can lead one astray. Breaking away from prejudice and waiting for the fragrance to develop is broadening. It's also nice to know that you can do much more with tonka beans than just sweet stuff

Even though the series of the ideal man has a stupid name (but we know: no story, no glory), it has obviously established itself. I think it's really good overall, and it often suits my taste; for me, it's a successful addition to the classic Guerlain fragrances, not the decline of the brand.

In the case of LHI I am in any case pleased about a valuable, but not overly demanding mainstream fragrance, which almost always fits and which I would like to wear not only exclusively during lonely walks in the woods.


NO TIME? READ THE HERE:

- fresh & minimal flowering prelude
- lots of tonka bean, some heliotrope & almond
- Vetiver & cedar limit the sweetness
- A tonka bean fragrance with calculated sweetness for men who like it smooth, but not loud & sticky.
15 Comments
Stulle 4 years ago 15 12
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
7
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Anti-crisis scent
March/April 2020: the world is shaken by a small but extremely nasty virus and life is temporarily halted.

I had to deal with the dramatically tumultuous events and news as soon as I arrived at my second (Iberian) residence - a hotspot of the Corona crisis - when I understood within a day: get out of here, and as fast as possible!

So I sit with relatives in a tiny room a few hundred kilometres away, wait until the curfew is lifted or extended again and am glad that I was able to bring myself, my cat, some tools and some clothes to relative safety. Unfortunately, there was no room in my suitcase for perfume only, and it is now paying off that I have not ignored the cheap Spanish drugstore scents over the past years, but have tested them tirelessly and over and over again!

So today I bought the beautiful fragrance AGUA DE BAMBÚ from Adolfo Domínguez. In the supermarket, because perfumeries are not open.

AdB is a flanker of the BAMBÚ of the same brand, which I appreciate; I had already been using the latter for several months. I find the AGUA version of it a bit more versatile than the original due to its light and rather tangy alignment.

Beginning with dry citric and rudimentary fruity notes, I perceive most strongly a green tea note, which runs through the entire course (which is not too pronounced). In this phase, pepper is also present, which enhances the fresh hallo-wake impression.
A certain aquatic impression is also apparent, which is probably achieved by combining the above-mentioned components.

Then there is a lavender-like and cardamom heart note, which illustrates a smart masculinity for me.
As a foundation of the fragrance, a soft ambrette base predominates, which pairs wonderfully with the ever-present but unobtrusive tea scent. In the very background I perceive minimal tonka bean - in just the right amount for me. An accent that finally does credit to this often inflationary used and therefore disastrously appearing ingredient.

After twenty-one days of abstinence from smells, my perception has changed quite a bit - I would say for the better. If you don't have any fragrance in your nose at all, you suddenly appreciate the simplest things: a nice deodorant, a good shower bath, a pleasant simple men's perfume that suddenly, during the rather rare food shopping, gets under and into your nose and beautifies the moment.

And I ask myself: what would happen if the European economy were to collapse massively now and we had to continue to live at a much lower level of prosperity? So what if there were no longer a budget for €400 fragrances? If perfume were to become a real luxury good again, no longer affordable for many people, even in our latitudes?

I think, besides my eternal favourite classic BRUT 33 by Fabergé and maybe a more recent TABAC flanker by M&W, AGUA DE BAMBÚ by Adolfo Domínguez could be a cheap and fine choice. I'm even quite sure of it.

Let's hope that we will all soon emerge safely from this global crisis.
For barren and hopefully not so barren times I would like to suggest the test of this beautiful and fresh men's fragrance.

Please stay healthy and continue to be nice to each other!


12 Comments
Stulle 4 years ago 30 13
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
7
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
The Sauvage Trap
I think the comparison with Sauvage leads us a bit on the wrong track, because CRAFTSMAN actually wants to go somewhere else. For me it is a fresh and green herbaceous, by no means old-fashioned fragrance, which remains true to the tradition of the brand. Before the test you should maybe think about the Tabac Man, which is a little bit outdated now, then the disappointment will hopefully stay away.

When sprayed on, citric and peppery notes predominate, and these are also the obvious parallels to Sauvage. The actual body, however, consists rather of rose geranium and lavender - at the latest I don't want to compare both scents with each other anymore. In the base note a not excessive sweetness is added, probably the tonka bean.

CRAFTSMAN is oriented to the top notes of modern mainstream perfumes like the one mentioned above and thus appears modern for the first time in the quick test, but unfolds a male character in the further course through his relaxed herbaceousness, which can't really be called classic, but is quite serious and somehow also well-sustained. Highly conspicuous and all too loud appearance is not possible with this men's fragrance. But there are other things for that, too.

After all, this green framework makes sure that he escapes the dreaded D-classification (D like shower gel) - you know, that's the maximum penalty for Parfumo at the moment! In my opinion, a paper strip test is much too short here, because you can't get far beyond the top note.

The potential wearer of the CRAFTSMAN could be, for example, a well-groomed, not negligent or old-fashioned, but also not like a vain, middle-aged man dressed as a dude, who has always used After Shave after the daily electric shave and only enters a perfumery when he wants to give a nice person a present. Your own scented water should smell good, but you shouldn't whine for attention either.

Recently I discovered in a big supermarket the complete care series of the four currently available TABAC fragrances side by side and on top of each other: Tabac Original, Gentle Men's Care, Tabac Man & Fire Power.
Actually very beautiful and also somehow sympathetic. Obviously, Mäurer & Wirtz consider quite carefully to whom/how/where the products are offered.

I liked that so much that I bought the deodorant stick from the CRAFTSMAN. By the way, it stays in this sauvage-like note and for this purpose I like it quite well, just like the counterpart of TABAC MAN. By the way, Mrs. Stulle also noticed once again that it smells pretty good. And that means something!

Again short:
a typical fragrance of the TABAC line, but fresher and more modern at the beginning. If you're looking for an exact copy of Sauvage, you're wrong here. If you want a modern, green spicy and reservedly sweet men's fragrance at a budget price: go for it!
13 Comments
6 - 10 by 11