Susan

Mona di Orio's VANILLE immediately brings to mind the thought of a chimera……a hybrid creature…..neither entirely one nor entirely the other…..but unique and fascinating in its entirety……

First of all, one must let go of all conventional ideas of vanilla scents…..this vanilla is carved from a different wood…..darker, rougher, edgier, and generally more masculine…..

This rather masculine scent character reveals itself to me especially at the beginning……

VANILLE opens with distinct clove, aromatic-bitter orange peel, and a more than generous dose of rum…….

This completely aligns with the imagery of the perfumer that underlies this perfume: An old ship on its way to or from Madagascar……laden with all sorts of spices like oranges, vanilla pods, ylang-ylang flowers, cloves, precious woods, and barrels of rum……of which there are obviously plenty ;-)……

The wonderfully aromatic scents of this precious cargo blend with amber and tonka to create a warm, smoky-spicy, and semi-gourmand fragrance experience with only a gentle sweetness and a fair measure of “booze”…….with the dark vanilla pod becoming the leitmotif from the heart note onwards……

After some time, the initially more masculine impression also transforms…….so that I would consider it “unisex” after about an hour of development ;-)……

So tender, gentle, and fluffy like the softest, creamy white fluff one can imagine……

In between, little, enchanting lemon and verbena stars keep sparkling …….like twinkling shooting stars against a pearlescent shimmering sky……

Gandix has already found the perfect expression with “Cream Pearl Shimmer” to put this angelic scent into words……

The rose only blooms here in a delicate pastel pink, allowing the iris to take the lead throughout……

Towards the base, it almost completely dissipates, leaving behind a creamy, buttery soft, musk-infused iris …..topped with a few deliciously vanillic heliotrope flakes ……

If Turandot hadn't already described the scent in her review exactly as I perceive it, I would have written a more detailed one myself.

It certainly deserves to be dedicated to extensively….

I undoubtedly agree with some of my predecessors: It surprisingly smells like tuberose. However, it is a “non-sentimental” one. A “greener” one, if you will.

However, according to the pyramid, there is none in it.

I can only explain it by the fact that the spice mixture (which certainly includes clove) in combination with the green notes, the radiant jasmine, and the buttery ylang-ylang creates this surprising scent impression.

OIRO impresses with an opulent, almost slightly retro floral abundance……but it is in no way what one generally imagines under a “cluttered white floral orgy”……not at all.

Frankincense, cedar, and vetiver create a perfect counterbalance here…..together they give the fragrance an elegant, serious depth and even a certain degree of freshness…..

In this stage of the fragrance, ORIO lingers for a very, very long time……until it ultimately fades into a lush, dark-ambered base.

If I didn't have an aversion to tuberose, I would certainly rate the fragrance even better. But since that is the case, my rating is as follows:

Overall: 9
Personal: 7
Total: 8

…..just a hint……super soft and gentle……like a still warm, fluffy, and wonderfully fresh-smelling towel…..

CABRIOLE exudes a fluid of childlike innocence……

Christine Nagel has consciously omitted the usual orange blossom found in children's perfumes and opted for the quite successful combination of osmanthus and honeysuckle…..

The sweetness of the fragrance is therefore also quite moderate and arises solely from the floral sweetness inherent in the honeysuckle…..

In combination with osmanthus and its delicate green note, it creates the impression of a filigree, light green watercolor…….

This delicate fragrance structure is supported by a dreamily beautiful, light, and soft sandalwood note, which also lends a touch of elegance to the scent….

CABRIOLE was conceived as a perfume for children…….

Images of rural harmony and carefree joy come to mind……images of bare little feet hopping over dew-kissed meadows on an early summer morning…….

And yet I can easily imagine CABRIOLE on adults as well……because it is NOT overtly sweet and clichédly childish……

And because despite its innocent and delicate charm, it undeniably carries the characteristic elegance of Hermès…….

Even the first spray makes all the hairs on my neck stand on end…!! The enemy does not hesitate. He goes straight for the attack..!!

A concentrated blast of synthetic wood mercilessly drills into my nostrils, my skin, and my brain.

Actually, I’m already done for.

I have nothing to counter this overwhelming onslaught of Cashmeran, Ambroxan, AmberXtreme, Sinfonide, Operanide, and whatever else they might be called. Not even my genuine intention to face the chemical club with some openness is enough.

MUSC OLI is pure horror for my nose.

Doomsday.

The "fragrance" super disaster.

Here we have the chemical club in its purest form. All the scent notes that ruin many of the new releases are united here in a single, dreadful inferno.

MUSC OLI perfectly embodies (in my opinion) the zeitgeist of perfumery. Soulless, cold, unfriendly, and chemically stereotypical. One can hardly believe that this house once produced a century fragrance like Tabac Blond Eau de Parfum.

MUSC OLI corresponds exactly to the "scent trail" that one currently perceives in every NEW YORKER, H&M, MÜLLER, etc. The eternally lingering, biting base of so many current fragrances.

And since this is the case, I am sure that MUSC OLI will also find its admirers. Probably even numerous ones.

PS: 0.5 points are only given because "0" is not an option.