TAAKE

TAAKE

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"The true nobility knows no fear."
A night in the gentlemen's room:

Dark, massive root wood, dim light, and five large chairs covered in brown leather - in an evening gathering, five old gentlemen in noble attire:

THE EXTRAVERTED GRAND SEIGNEUR:
Sociable and generous, he leads the group. Adorned with a well-groomed gray full beard, he fills the surrounding air with the sweet notes of his Cuban cigar and the mild-spicy scent of his cognac, aged for decades in oak barrels. He dominates the conversations, being relaxed and captivating.

THE WILD ROMANTIC CAVALIER:
Dressed elegantly in a dark suit, he listens to the stories. He doesn’t speak often. In a corner adorned with flowers and blossoms, he dreamily enjoys the company and indulges in his thoughts. He is enveloped by the scent of dark red roses, sweet jasmine, and intoxicatingly sensual ylang-ylang. He is silent, yet so present.

THE EXTRAVAGANT GENTLEMAN:
Often stubborn, yet always gallant, he joins the conversation. With a distinctive voice and upright posture, he philosophizes about experiences from days gone by. He exudes the scent of warm-spicy, peppery galbanum, fitting his dark-friendly aura. A worldly man, knowledgeable and inspiring.

THE CULTIVATED NOBLEMAN:
Well-groomed and refined, he steers the conversations. Always mannerly, with a monocle pressed firmly to his eye and a top hat firmly on his head throughout the evening. His freshly combed sideburns emit the soapy clean scent of clary sage and geranium. It smells of shaving soap and barbershop, of herbs and bitter-fresh oak moss. A scent that endures throughout the evening.

THE UNRESTRAINED ROGUE:
With a sharp gaze and decisive words, he unites wickedness and charm. He is neither vulgar nor a slave to morality. He tells old stories of indulgence and adventure, digging deep and sailing far, fascinating and invigorating the group. It smells risqué, slightly leathery, and seductive - animalic notes of musk and civet flood the room.

“Vermeil Pour Homme” is an indescribably classic and ambivalent fragrance, distinguished and stirring. The herbal violet leaf replaces the missing lavender and, along with the sweet accord of the heart note and the oak moss of the base, creates a breathtaking semi-fougère. Through coriander and patchouli (and presumably also through blackcurrant), oriental accents are set. The combination of (not listed, but likely inherent) clary sage and geranium creates a noble-fresh soapy note, as found in classics like Aigner No.2, Azzaro PH, Paco Rabanne PH, G-Man, and Kouros. Above all, the latter bears a striking resemblance to “Vermeil Pour Homme,” which is highlighted by the characteristic civet note (enhanced by musk) - only this gold-brown vintage elixir is worlds more harmonious and original. The sovereign tobacco note with its alcoholic undertones runs through the entire fragrance development, making it warm, cozy, soft, slightly sweet, and so wonderfully masculine.

Sillage and longevity are phenomenal! Two sprays are enough to envelop the skin in this noble scent for at least twelve hours. The bottle impresses with a wonderfully appealing vintage look in luxurious colors. Unfortunately, this old-school bomb is no longer available in Germany - however, it can be ordered at bargain prices from the USA.

CONCLUSION:
Those who count room-filling powerhouses with outrageous sillage and longevity among their favorites will be well served here; those who love soapy scents with an animalic undertone as well as the smell of tobacco have found their master here; and those who wish to join the circle of gentlemen in evening attire should take a seat on the sixth chair, secure their bottle, and light the next cigar in the gentlemen's room - “In the evening, the day becomes precious.”
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"I am the punishment of God."
"And if you had not committed such terrible sins, God would not have sent me as punishment over you." (Genghis Khan)

Now, as the spray button is pressed to the max and a burst of sparkling magic fills the air, the olfactory journey begins in a distant land ruled by an omnipotent scent - "Genghis Khan".

25 years have passed since the introduction of this fragrance. When production was halted, it seemed lost and was nearly impossible to find even on international auction platforms. It is now the year 2014, and since last year, the workshops of the French perfumery "Marc de la Morandière" are once again in full swing. All the in-house classics from the 90s have been revived and are now (partially reformulated) exclusively available on the website of the Parisian fragrance house - including "Genghis Khan", an Eau de Parfum that truly deserves the honor of reintroduction.

With a loud war cry, the top note rides onto the battlefield with a variety of spices. Led by lavender and citrus accords, there is no hierarchy among them; no component of the top note smells exactly as one would expect, rather I perceive an extremely intoxicating combination of these. From the flanks, nuances of cherries and dark berries emerge, reminiscent of Gainsboro's "Exception" yet entirely different. A cool breeze mingles, creating a refreshingly spicy opening. Drakkar Noir? Yes, indeed - and definitely no. Zesty and distinctive, spicy and fresh, slightly sweet yet so bitter - A UNIQUE TOP NOTE!

With the heart note, rose and jasmine march in, in a perfected combination with patchouli as I know it from my beloved classics "Antaeus", "Photo", and "Tsar". A wonderfully heavy and potent fragrance accord lies on my skin - masculine and mystical, rich and present. The top note shows no sign of dissipating, fighting side by side with the heart, unwavering and to the last man. In all its fullness, the upper two-thirds of the fragrance pyramid are like a glass of fragrant red wine made from Nebbiolo grapes, expressive and long-aged - A COMPLETE SINFUL-SENSUAL DELIGHT!

With the introduction of the base note, no prisoners are taken. Opulent pine needles as I know and love them from "Dhofar", paired with warm smoky benzoin accords reminiscent of "Body Kouros", swarm onto the battlefield and cover the blood-soaked ground with dark ash. An overwhelming intensity of perfectly harmonizing fragrance combinations that I have rarely encountered.

Despite all the opulence that "Genghis Khan" carries within, it is not a slaughterer but rather a strategist. It does not find its place among powerhouse fragrances; it kills quietly and with calculation. The sillage is strong, yet not overwhelming. The longevity is very good, appropriate for an "Eau de Parfum", and the overall appearance of the fragrance is absolutely unique.

The exotically occult bottle is made of black glass with dark red lettering, features a hard plastic cap, and was designed by Serge Mansau, who has previously worked for brands such as Hermes, Dior, and Guerlain. The "Eau de Parfum" is exclusively available in a 100ml bottle through the Marc de la Morandière website for 120 EUR plus international shipping costs. I also received five original samples of other fragrances from the house for free as a bonus and am extremely satisfied with the purchasing process. To what extent the fragrance has been reformulated, I cannot say, as I unfortunately never had the pleasure of experiencing the original release.

CONCLUSION: If you enjoy dark, potent fragrances like Chanel's "Antaeus" or Guy Laroche's "Drakkar Noir", you are in the right place; if you favor substantial classics with strong sillage, you must test this; and if you have mourned the lost treasure in the "black urn" over all these past years, then virtually make your way to France and decimate the limited edition - aux armes!
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"The night is the gentle complexion for the soul..."
…and “By Night Black” is its mythical scent - the olfactory score of a balmy summer night.

The seemingly unremarkable bottle from the Italian house “Profumi del Forte” houses an extremely nebulous fragrance, unlike anything I have experienced in a long time.

“By Night Black” primarily possesses a pure floral character, which asserts itself throughout the entire scent journey. The lime in the top note is perceptible, but only very softly and extremely subtly. Rather, I smell its blossom! A scent reminiscent of jasmine - Azorean jasmine. The fragrance begins wonderfully fresh-floral, without ever being too gentle. The fig leaves color the top note a juicy green, and the mandarin dances quietly with a larger bitter orange in rhythm while basil, lavender, and above all labdanum set striking accents. A scent like a flower-laden, slightly spicy sea breeze - sultry yet refreshing.

With the gradual emergence of the heart note, another resin joins the labdanum: pine resin - a woody-warm scent that harmonizes beautifully with the Mediterranean undertone of the top note. This ensemble is completed by a wonderfully subtle incense, which never becomes too intrusive or scratchy, and sweet-balsamic cedarwood.

Thus, the traditional Italian fragrance house has created something I have long sought: A SMOKY DISTINCT JASMINE SCENT WITH RESINOUS EDGES AND BALSAMIC CORNERS. “By Night Black” is a vacation for the nose, a journey to remote places in the Mediterranean, not timid but also not reckless, a veiled and sensually erotic fragrance for balmy summer nights, multifaceted and dark violet.

The target audience is not defined by gender in any way - even on female skin, the mysterious Italian is sure to please. Not for winter or autumn - 90% summer evening and 10% spring morning - a scent made for going out, too romantic for work, sports, and leisure. The sillage is appropriately moderate, and the longevity is adequate for the fragrance notes. The Eau de Parfum is sold in bottles of 100ml and 50ml. However, I have only seen the smaller variant in Italy so far. The bottle is made of cut glass and the cap is made of dark marble.

CONCLUSION: Those who are fond of distinct floral fragrances should reach for a test strip here; those searching for resinous-smoky jasmine will find it here, and all those who know and have come to love Valentino’s “V Pour Homme” should indulge in the dark elixir - or to quote Novalis: “Does not everything that excites us wear the color of the night?”
9 Comments
TAAKE 14 years ago 19 9
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"Common soul is often paired with uncommon spirit."
"But dirt remains dirt, even if it phosphoresces."
(Alfred Polgar)

Right off the bat: all fans of Annick Goutal's "Myrrhe Ardente" and "Encense Flamboyant" should absolutely KEEP READING despite my negative rating, you will love this fragrance!

I’m going to put myself in a difficult position right from the start and confess that I can find absolutely nothing appealing about the two fragrances mentioned above. Unfortunately, because "Fireside Intense" is the perfect blend of these with a massive shot of bizarre niche exoticism on top.

It all began when I was searching for smoky scents and stumbled upon THE olfactory representation of smoke: Fireside Intense is marketed as "a smoky perfume that embodies the strangely satisfying scent of smoldering woods, carried by the crackling falling air or emitted from an evening campfire." All of this is true and would be beautiful if only my personal perception of the fragrance were anything but satisfying. To wash off or remove the "scent," I recommend gall soap or a specialist for amputation.

Even while reading the fragrance pyramid, an insatiable curiosity ignited within me, and the allure of the unknown overwhelmed reason and budget plans - thank you for your order. Wood, wood, and more wood. Biting birch tar and delicious leather. Laurie Erickson's obligatory overdose of castoreum from "Winter Woods" must not be missing here either. And alongside amber, oak moss, and juniper, the mystical master of smoke enters the ring: nagarmotha - eternal resident of Indian incense sticks and definitely summoned here as the troop leader. This scent brings me down! Exactly where Uncle Serge's intense bombs like "Fille en Aiguilles" celebrate the peak of their penetration party, the marching music of Fireside Intense begins, the likely eternal title defender of the smoke ring.

Yes, I indeed think of a campfire, but not one that romantically flickers and crackles. Rather, it feels as if that fire has just been "pissed out," and the smoke of its extinguishing flows directly into my nose without any detours. Alongside burnt cigarette butts and all sorts of charred plastic waste, the missing meat remnants from the barbecue evening reappear amidst the smoldering ash - a revelation!? For my part, I cannot endure it and raise the white flag - I am not up to this scent. Besides the nagarmotha, which I find extremely unpleasant, and the penetrating urine note, I also smell an enormously heavy myrrh. Thank goodness I am left-handed; I applied the fragrance to my right hand.

The sillage of the fragrance is criminal; a firearms license is absolutely required. The longevity surpasses the nuclear winter and could drive some test subjects, who share my personal perception, into sheer madness. However, there are indeed MANY LOVERS of this very perfume. It has already found a noteworthy fan base on various forums, and here too, after sending out a sample, I received - for me absolutely incomprehensible - euphoric feedback with the announcement of a soon purchase. Nevertheless, I can only evaluate the scent as what I perceive it to be: unbearable.

CONCLUSION: Those who love extremely heavy and smoky fragrances could find their holy grail here; those who already cannot relate to the above-mentioned Goutals can safely steer clear of this one, and those in search of the extremes of niche perfumery should add this outsider to their watchlist. Lastly, a well-meaning call to the friends of smoke, incense sticks, and myrrh: Test the fragrance and let yourselves be thrilled - the "Not Helpful" button awaits your feedback.
9 Comments
TAAKE 14 years ago 31 10
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"Being self-assured makes one upright, calm, and sovereign."
As a beauty label that exclusively caters to the male gender with its product range, Zirh has made many friends worldwide, alongside prominent consumers from the international sports and styling scene in America. Many products have also been awarded multiple times by the American men's magazine FHM and praised highly. As for the men's fragrance "Ikon," this is entirely justified - here you get a lot of quality for little money, a remarkable exception.

Ikon presents itself as an exceptionally high-quality fragrance with interesting and well-chosen ingredients. At the outset, the name Davana immediately catches the eye - an aromatic plant from India, whose oil captivates with its fruity-sweet and warm aroma. The combination of spicy cardamom and invigorating, sharp ginger nuances surprises once again in a very pleasant way and gives the fragrance a top note that could make many renowned perfume houses envious. The lemon here is only a quiet companion, providing just a slight refreshing undertone.

The heart note doesn't take long to appear and creates a wonderfully pleasant and soft warmth-spice interplay, which is mainly dominated by an exceptionally mild and beautiful cinnamon note and the dark, balsamic hints of labdanum. It is also lovely to observe that the fruity sweetness and subtle sharpness of the top note linger in the heart note, somewhat muted and pushed back, but still present. Clove seeds, which prove to be much shyer than the typical clove, accompany the heart with an exotic note and are excellently complemented by a slightly earthy and enchanting scent accord of orris root. I have yet to smell a combination of such exquisite and exotic fragrance notes that is even remotely comparable - a wonderfully unusual scent experience without any exaggeration or niche affinity!

The base also delights with perfectly dosed fragrance notes of smoky amber, sensual patchouli, and the woody and warm undertones of cedarwood and vetiver. I cannot detect the frankincense on its own, yet I miss nothing in this fragrance. Ikon is neither a loudmouth nor a coward; it is very present, but in a beautifully subtle way. A fragrance with extraordinarily high-quality ingredients, an immensely good dosage of the individual fragrance notes, and an extremely charismatic and sovereign presence - Ikon hypnotizes.

The timelessly puristic bottle design by Chad Lavigne, who has also created for Donna Karan, Tommy Hilfiger, and Ralph Lauren, may seem to clash with the potency of the fragrance at first glance, but it is nonetheless very elegantly and appealingly executed. The longevity is perfectly fine at a good 6 hours, and the current price level of the 75ml bottle is absolutely unbeatable.

CONCLUSION: Those who place great value on high-quality ingredients and are open to exotic fragrance nuances should definitely test this. Those looking for a sustainable, masculine scent without ostentation will find themselves in the right place, and anyone searching for a beautiful and high-quality Eau de Toilette for little money, far from faceless designer fragrances, will likely not regret a blind purchase - less risk, more fun!
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