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Tanninaz

Tanninaz

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Chypre for Gloomies
For me, Chypre Mousse starts with a strong mushroom-like note, accompanied by a wild jumble of herbs that all come across as rather gnarly and bitter. 'I can't really identify any of the herbal notes; they evoke more the impression of a wild herb garden in a dilapidated estate. I also smell something slightly musty, like wet leaves on the compost or something similar.
Beneath that lies a scent that I most closely associate with a chestnut blossom honey from Italy - minimally sweet, then slightly bitter, very aromatic, and somewhat medicinal in taste. Perhaps there's also a hint of roasted chestnuts. For me, nothing becomes balsamic, only green and mossy. If it were a color, the perfume would be green-brown with silver speckles.
The longevity is more than fabulous; you really have to use a brush and soap to get rid of the scent.
The fragrance can certainly be worn by both men and women; in spring and autumn, it suits me particularly well. However, I can't wear it often because I need to be in the mood for it; otherwise, the scent wears me and not the other way around. Nevertheless, for lovers of rugged chypres, it is definitely worth testing.
Interestingly, Chypre Mousse is also affectionately called "Eau de Crypt" in an American perfume forum (a fitting scent for Morticia Adams?), but that actually hits the nail on the head.
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Chypre with Tropical Feeling
The scent starts off green and fresh with the lime note, also has a slightly herbal quality, probably from the basil. Over time, some white flowers emerge, although the floral aspect is rather subdued; I can distinctly smell the ylang-ylang, while the jasmine is less noticeable. However, it remains relatively unsweet and not very heavy, fortunately, as I don't handle big white florals very well.
The dry-green base note of oakwood is slightly softened by a bit of sandalwood and benzoin, but the scent never becomes sweet. It reminds me just a tiny bit of Private Collection, of which I have a vintage mini, but with a Thai twist and more floral than green.

Rogue Perfumery states on its website that the proportions of oakmoss are not IFRA-compliant and are used in significantly higher concentrations. So, if someone is looking for something like that, they can find it here.
For me, a very successful blind purchase.
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No Hint of Nothing
After reading some comments and blog reviews, I was definitely of the opinion that this could be a fragrance for me - I also like a bit of animalistic notes in the base, but it shouldn't be too overwhelming. After all, I want to be able to wear the perfume to work without disturbing my patients.
L´Air de Rien actually starts off really musty, which is probably due to the oak moss. The neroli note also doesn't come across as fresh at all, but rather dusty, as if it had been forgotten in an old handbag or box and pulled out years later.
For the first hour, it smells like a stale oriental perfume and does indeed have a certain presence. During this phase, my boyfriend wrinkles his nose quite a bit.
After the initial phase, the scent becomes noticeably cozier, still slightly musty and a bit powdery. It somehow reminds me of the scent of an old favorite aunt who used to be quite a stunner. There’s also a slightly unwashed musk note, like when you smell the scalp of your loved one, who has showered in the morning but has had a day of work behind them. Not really sweaty, but also not fresh...
Overall, a truly idiosyncratic scent that I personally really like. It definitely has the potential to be a signature fragrance.
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Fancy some black tea?
As a passionate tea drinker, I am always interested in tea scents. So far, I have only tested Camelia chinois by Maitre Parfumeur as well as a few Bulgari fragrances in the past.
The scent comes in a really pretty bottle printed with cute, colorful elephants, which I like a lot.
Upon spraying, a distinct lemon note comes through first, like fresh lemon juice. Then, a classic tea scent follows, specifically black tea, unscented. It really resembles fine Assam the most, not dark tea, not fine Darjeeling. The lemon fades away after a while, the black tea remains dominant, and in the end, a slightly mild note joins in the base. Since sandalwood is mentioned in the notes, I would guess that’s what it is.
Overall: with this scent, you get exactly what it says on the label - fresh Assam with lemon. I can really imagine it being refreshing in the summer, perfect for daytime at the office or during leisure time. Definitely not for the evening.
Longevity is rather moderate, but re-spraying is fun too....
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Christmas-like
I kindly received a sample of this perfume (thanks to Hannah!). For comparison, I have a recent decant of Wazamba.
Upon spraying Lutens, the incense begins, rather dark, slightly ecclesiastical. Alongside it, there is a fine coniferous note, it must be the pine, but rather slightly singed pine needles. There is also a sweet dried fruit undertone that gives the whole a rather delicious, but not gourmand note. For me, it is a rather calm, slightly meditative winter fragrance. The longevity is good, still detectable after eight hours.

The Wazamba sprayed at the same time starts similarly incense-like, but with more emphasis on smoke than on sanctity. There is a hint of apple, almost cider-like, followed by a dried fruit note as well. However, Wazamba remains distinctly drier throughout, less sweet, a bit more apple-like, and slightly smokier.
But anyone who cannot find the Lutens should definitely test Wazamba as an alternative. Longevity here is similarly good.
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