Gucci № 3 Gucci 1985 Eau de Toilette

I'm wearing today this incredible perfume and had to write about it. I really think it is one of the most perfect autumn perfumes I've come across. When I smell it, it makes me long for countryside walks, in woolen jumpers and coats, and leather boots of course. Tweed and leather, those good old things.

Green chypre, full of oakmoss, narcissus, leather, rubbery tuberose and a hint of dense red rose. Aldehydes give a sparkling effect to it, but they are under control. So the result is creamy, green, animalic, autumnal but still shiny.

Very chic and uncommon to today’s commonplace for scents. Strong and long lasting too. Worths every cent of the edt, I own too a perfume extrait which is even better, to cry for actually. Why next generations have to be punished not to ever smell it, I will never understand.

Pure magic.

The fragrance features a crisp floral scent with hints of narcissus and green leaf, complemented by the transparent aromas of lily of the valley and jasmine, and the white floral notes of tuberose. The addition of aldehydes creates a classic green floral impression.

The base has a leathery note, combining smoothness and strength, while oakmoss and iris add a mysterious, misty nuance to the overall fragrance.

It exudes a dignified elegance and inner strength, while also possessing an air of mystery.

The misty nuance is created by the blending of patchouli and oakmoss with the powdery notes of iris, resulting in a sophisticated and mysterious effect. This fragrance perfectly embodies the fusion of Italian craftsmanship and the modern image of the independent woman that Gucci pursued at the time. Narcissus embodies both qualities, its smooth texture rendered in leather and enhanced with aldehyde for a radiant sheen. It embodies noble elegance. Its distinct character, different from current Gucci pieces, evokes a sense of history.

Gucci No. 3 starts with honey and sunshine, rays of aldehydes and ribbons of dry coriander. My nose reads the rose and narcissus as intertwined, a duet of dew and oil, velvety and waxy, pretty and funky, both sipping icewine and getting their toes dirty in the earth. They dance seductively to Prince's "Cream"—'you're filthy, cute and baby you know it.' The air is soap and sweat and leather and hookah smoke.

Things get amorous in the horse stable, and under the stars there are 23 positions and a one night stand, and it's woody in the woods—patchouli and vetiver, so it starts off light and proper and settles hot and heavy. To be clear, this is not an aggressive scene—it's sensual, the peignoir is on the floor, yet it's discreet at this stage. Its transition from bursting green to sensuous earth tones is a reminder that nonlinearity can be a real thrill.

For days I pondered which fragrance to dedicate my 400th review to. I didn't want to write a critique for this occasion. But thanks to a dear perfume enthusiast, I have a sample of Gucci 3 (Extrait). Now, where better to sing praises than with a lovely Chypre? However, I must note that not all Chypres automatically win me over. There are Chypres I wouldn't even want to be embalmed with when I'm dead.
Ah yes, Gucci 3 is from the past, and it smells like it too. But I don't belong to those who claim that everything was better back then. Many things were different, some better, some also crap... Fragrances from the past were better than other fragrances from the past and sometimes even better than some from today.
Gucci 3 is a scent for big girls, those whose eggshells behind their ears have already come off, or for a lively grandma who rides motorcycles with her grandson, treats herself to stylish clothes, or travels the world. I don't mean the lady over 60 who, as I often hear from my clients of that age, says: "Oh, Mrs. ... that's all very nice, but I don't need anything anymore, I already have everything." Just the other day, I would have liked to ask the permanently permed lady (at most 65 years young) if she has already paid for her burial plot. Well, they don't wear perfume anyway.
Gucci 3 is a dark, floral-spicy Chypre that starts with a concentrated dose of aldehydes, but NOT in a soapy form. It immediately gives way to a dense spice note that can't solely come from coriander. The floral flood in the heart is so complex, opulent, and not sweet that I can't identify a single note. For all those who fear fragrances from the 1980s, I can say: Opulent: Yes! An 80s bomb? No!
The base is (for all Chypre fans) worship-worthy. A fine leather note, dark and warm, ambered, elegantly woody. I will keep an eye on Gucci 3; I have a lot, but not everything that brings me joy.

Guccio Gucci, who, like Thierry Hermès, originally sold fine saddles and leather goods, stood for me as the epitome of style and quality, just like his label founded in the 1950s. Gucci as a corporation has had its ups and downs, like almost every other fashion house, and after a major crisis, it managed to get back on its feet with the help of Tom Ford, even becoming more profitable than before.
But - at what price? Gucci, the label, may play a significant role internationally again - but if Guccio, the father of the label, could smell what is marketed today under his name, he would be turning in his grave.
Not so with Gucci No.3! This fragrance deserves the recognition that I also have for early Gucci items: It meets a high standard, is an absolute noble chypre, a signature candidate, and - timeless.
Unfortunately, it is hardly available nowadays, as it was discontinued years ago during the restructuring within the corporation.
The best always go first.
After a green-aldehydic opening, the fragrance quickly becomes warmer, silkier, slightly fruity, and even has a minimal resemblance to Mitsouko in the heart note, although without the peach and without a distinct presence of a single floral note. The base is skillfully balanced, a leathery note amidst a bouquet of oak moss, fine woods, and amber, radiant and vibrant. A fragrance like a silk scarf, like a buttery soft leather bag, like handcrafted shoes. Luxury that one loves for a lifetime.