Cabochard 1959 Eau de Toilette

Version from 1959
Cabochard (1959) (Eau de Toilette) by Grès
Bottle Design Madame Grès
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8.6 / 10 71 Ratings
Cabochard (1959) (Eau de Toilette) is a popular perfume by Grès for women and was released in 1959. The scent is chypreartig-leathery. The production was apparently discontinued. Pronunciation
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Main accords


Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
AldehydesAldehydes SageSage SpicesSpices TarragonTarragon AsafoetidaAsafoetida Citrus fruitsCitrus fruits FruitsFruits
Heart Notes Heart Notes
GeraniumGeranium JasmineJasmine Orris rootOrris root RoseRose Ylang-ylangYlang-ylang
Base Notes Base Notes
OakmossOakmoss LeatherLeather MuskMusk VetiverVetiver AmberAmber PatchouliPatchouli SandalwoodSandalwood TobaccoTobacco CoconutCoconut


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Submitted by WiB, last update on 17.12.2022.
Variant of the fragrance concentration
This is a variant of the perfume Cabochard (1959) (Parfum) by Grès, which differs in concentration.
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2 in-depth fragrance descriptions
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Top Review 21  
So "Stubborn" is her name, this lady who wore my mommy as one of the few fragrances in her later years.
Well, she certainly didn't know that, inconspicuous and adapted as she was:
This shows that opposites do attract each other again and again.

I was maybe 13, 14 years old when I found two fingernail-sized glass flacons in a box at my girlfriend's house, which even for my underdeveloped nose, had a very interesting scent.
Today I know that it was this leather floral note that gives "Cabochard" its personality.
Like girls are like that (and we were just girls at that age), I exchanged these two little flacons and they lived for decades in my mom's jewelry box, where they developed their own unique scent world with leather and velvet, until they came to me and were allowed to pose on one of the perfume photos here.

Self-willed and self-determined I would describe this wonderful fragrance today as a mature woman. Not adapted and cuddly, but stubbornly holding on to what makes up her personality:
"Cabochard always does what she wants!" was one of the first advertising slogans in 1959, when Madame Grès introduced this very different fragrance.
With this she dared to challenge the supremacy of the flowery aldehyde perfumes that were predominant at the time.
Because "Cabochard" is actually a leather-like chypré.
At the beginning, spicy and strong notes dominate: southern fruits and herbs and other Mediterranean spices; I wouldn't exclude black pepper either.
I would almost like to say that this top note could be a fine marrinade for fish or meat; if it weren't for the aldehydes fluttering and jumping around with their extraordinary luminosity.
Something slightly resinous (galbanum?) builds the bridge to the very classic, floral heart note.
Rose geranium lifts its head a little bit stronger and herbaceous before the goddesses Rose and Jasmine, coming from Grasse, drop by and decide to make themselves comfortable and stay.
Ylang-ylang is already there, as often with a happy smile in the yellow flower faces; friendly embrace all who have come here.
This radiant floral splendour, which lies on the tart herbal mixture, is powdered a little by iris root.
Cleverly done, because this way the mysterious, warm notes of patchouli (hello darling!) and vetiver oil can creep up.
They are followed by the tangy scented beauties of leather and tobacco, before the treasures of Venus sandalwood oil and musk are flatteringly and seductively introduced.
Round, warm and enticing, this stubborn, headstrong, idiosyncratic scent creature becomes through this, but cannot hide small spikes and edges. It probably doesn't want to! br /> Amber in well-known golden beauty succeeds in grinding off some of these fragrant barbs, covering them with a fine veil.
But "Cabochard" remains what its creators intended back then:
A somewhat unadapted personality, which only reveals itself to those who fit into its prey scheme.
So "Cabochard" is probably a very personal fragrance.

It is clear that we both do not harmonize with each other: "Cabochard" does not need a fish-flowered, slightly hypothermic woman as a "departure base": warm and wild and a little stubborn she should be, the confident woman who wears "Cabochard".
Given the large number of self-determined women in this period, "Cabochard" should actually take a top position: it embodies so much of what constitutes personal freedom.
Was this scent simply forgotten?
12 Replies
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Top Review 8  
Dark-happy, loud and quiet, modern retro?
I can hardly believe that this fragrance should be 60 years old as it is (unfortunately I don't know what it was like before the reformulation, or which one or how many*). Because I couldn't, for the life of me, assign him to any vintage.

The top notes are perhaps the most likely - they almost knock me down at first, but at the same time they also seem a bit "modern" peppery. Then it gets herbolognig briefly (the word written looks so horrible :D), and I notice already the Patchouli. The geranium blends in very harmoniously with the picture, and the patchouli makes it somehow rosier, spicier and deeper than usual. Rose geranium and geraniol rose merge to a note, fresh sour rose with lots of greenery on it. I don't perceive jasmine very well - but my nose may already be blunted (I like jasmine scents, which others already call "oozy").

In between a light impression of Voltarensalbe shimmers through again and again, which does not disturb me at all. On the contrary, the somewhat warlike herbs give the fragrance a strange olfactory sparkle, but without me locating it in the forest, more like a somewhat overgrown courtyard garden between high shady trees and walls, with isolated sunbeams.
In addition a beautiful peppery leather. No leather clean fragrance as with Bottega Veneta, but rather smoky and slightly dirty. Not the leather handbag in the office, but the leather jacket in the pub.

The bottle is deceptive, it looks so well-behaved with the ribbon ;) Cabochard is "angular" in a way that is not serious or elegant, but rather has something rebellious, rough, but also cheerful.
It is somehow like this "retro look", which is always a bit more cheeky and colourful than the bourgeois 50's probably were in reality, but therefore doesn't look old-fashioned.

Patchouli here is something special. Raw, earthy and unfiltered, a real rumbling hippie patchouli. The leather, tobacco and oak moss notes just prevent it from slipping into the 70s or the crypt corner, and that very skilfully. An acquired taste - like a good whisky.

That's not a scent that goes with costume and pumps, and I wouldn't let him!!! for the office, no matter how often "Chypre" and "classic" is written :P
I also don't understand why it should be "for older people", for me it doesn't exactly radiate the seriousness of life. Even my boyfriend, who otherwise stinks of everything unsweet/unleckere, likes him, but my mother finds him "buääähhhh" :D
And something in that fragrance is screaming "HOLIDAY!!" - is it the coconut? I don't even notice them consciously, but I could fit.
The scent just rocks. There you go.
I'm going to put on my leather jacket and go... not hiking, not dancing, not drinking whisky, but coffee, because it's Monday ^^
*Note: I have the latest version in a 100 ml bottle with embossed bow in the glass.
2 Replies


1 short view on the fragrance
MeliponeMelipone 6 months ago
Absolutely stunning and still affordable in vintage edition! Barely any off notes as practically no fresh top notes. Short-lived though.
0 Replies


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