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Notes11/15/2020
Serenissima
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Serenissima
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21
self-determined
So "Stubborn" is her name, this lady who wore my mommy as one of the few fragrances in her later years.
Well, she certainly didn't know that, inconspicuous and adapted as she was:
This shows that opposites do attract each other again and again.
I was maybe 13, 14 years old when I found two fingernail-sized glass flacons in a box at my girlfriend's house, which even for my underdeveloped nose, had a very interesting scent.
Today I know that it was this leather floral note that gives "Cabochard" its personality.
Like girls are like that (and we were just girls at that age), I exchanged these two little flacons and they lived for decades in my mom's jewelry box, where they developed their own unique scent world with leather and velvet, until they came to me and were allowed to pose on one of the perfume photos here.
Self-willed and self-determined I would describe this wonderful fragrance today as a mature woman. Not adapted and cuddly, but stubbornly holding on to what makes up her personality:
"Cabochard always does what she wants!" was one of the first advertising slogans in 1959, when Madame Grès introduced this very different fragrance.
With this she dared to challenge the supremacy of the flowery aldehyde perfumes that were predominant at the time.
Because "Cabochard" is actually a leather-like chypré.
At the beginning, spicy and strong notes dominate: southern fruits and herbs and other Mediterranean spices; I wouldn't exclude black pepper either.
I would almost like to say that this top note could be a fine marrinade for fish or meat; if it weren't for the aldehydes fluttering and jumping around with their extraordinary luminosity.
Something slightly resinous (galbanum?) builds the bridge to the very classic, floral heart note.
Rose geranium lifts its head a little bit stronger and herbaceous before the goddesses Rose and Jasmine, coming from Grasse, drop by and decide to make themselves comfortable and stay.
Ylang-ylang is already there, as often with a happy smile in the yellow flower faces; friendly embrace all who have come here.
This radiant floral splendour, which lies on the tart herbal mixture, is powdered a little by iris root.
Cleverly done, because this way the mysterious, warm notes of patchouli (hello darling!) and vetiver oil can creep up.
They are followed by the tangy scented beauties of leather and tobacco, before the treasures of Venus sandalwood oil and musk are flatteringly and seductively introduced.
Round, warm and enticing, this stubborn, headstrong, idiosyncratic scent creature becomes through this, but cannot hide small spikes and edges. It probably doesn't want to! br /> Amber in well-known golden beauty succeeds in grinding off some of these fragrant barbs, covering them with a fine veil.
But "Cabochard" remains what its creators intended back then:
A somewhat unadapted personality, which only reveals itself to those who fit into its prey scheme.
So "Cabochard" is probably a very personal fragrance.
It is clear that we both do not harmonize with each other: "Cabochard" does not need a fish-flowered, slightly hypothermic woman as a "departure base": warm and wild and a little stubborn she should be, the confident woman who wears "Cabochard".
Given the large number of self-determined women in this period, "Cabochard" should actually take a top position: it embodies so much of what constitutes personal freedom.
Was this scent simply forgotten?
Well, she certainly didn't know that, inconspicuous and adapted as she was:
This shows that opposites do attract each other again and again.
I was maybe 13, 14 years old when I found two fingernail-sized glass flacons in a box at my girlfriend's house, which even for my underdeveloped nose, had a very interesting scent.
Today I know that it was this leather floral note that gives "Cabochard" its personality.
Like girls are like that (and we were just girls at that age), I exchanged these two little flacons and they lived for decades in my mom's jewelry box, where they developed their own unique scent world with leather and velvet, until they came to me and were allowed to pose on one of the perfume photos here.
Self-willed and self-determined I would describe this wonderful fragrance today as a mature woman. Not adapted and cuddly, but stubbornly holding on to what makes up her personality:
"Cabochard always does what she wants!" was one of the first advertising slogans in 1959, when Madame Grès introduced this very different fragrance.
With this she dared to challenge the supremacy of the flowery aldehyde perfumes that were predominant at the time.
Because "Cabochard" is actually a leather-like chypré.
At the beginning, spicy and strong notes dominate: southern fruits and herbs and other Mediterranean spices; I wouldn't exclude black pepper either.
I would almost like to say that this top note could be a fine marrinade for fish or meat; if it weren't for the aldehydes fluttering and jumping around with their extraordinary luminosity.
Something slightly resinous (galbanum?) builds the bridge to the very classic, floral heart note.
Rose geranium lifts its head a little bit stronger and herbaceous before the goddesses Rose and Jasmine, coming from Grasse, drop by and decide to make themselves comfortable and stay.
Ylang-ylang is already there, as often with a happy smile in the yellow flower faces; friendly embrace all who have come here.
This radiant floral splendour, which lies on the tart herbal mixture, is powdered a little by iris root.
Cleverly done, because this way the mysterious, warm notes of patchouli (hello darling!) and vetiver oil can creep up.
They are followed by the tangy scented beauties of leather and tobacco, before the treasures of Venus sandalwood oil and musk are flatteringly and seductively introduced.
Round, warm and enticing, this stubborn, headstrong, idiosyncratic scent creature becomes through this, but cannot hide small spikes and edges. It probably doesn't want to! br /> Amber in well-known golden beauty succeeds in grinding off some of these fragrant barbs, covering them with a fine veil.
But "Cabochard" remains what its creators intended back then:
A somewhat unadapted personality, which only reveals itself to those who fit into its prey scheme.
So "Cabochard" is probably a very personal fragrance.
It is clear that we both do not harmonize with each other: "Cabochard" does not need a fish-flowered, slightly hypothermic woman as a "departure base": warm and wild and a little stubborn she should be, the confident woman who wears "Cabochard".
Given the large number of self-determined women in this period, "Cabochard" should actually take a top position: it embodies so much of what constitutes personal freedom.
Was this scent simply forgotten?
12 Replies
Melipone
