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Feel-Good Fragrance
Without Parfumo, nothing would have prompted me to visit a Rituals store anytime soon. So they have perfume... and it's rated quite well. Aside from many other nice things to discover there, I quickly decided to try out the EdP on-site... and ultimately chose No. 06.
Vetiver & Bergamot is not an exciting or opulent scent. I would consider it a feel-good fragrance for the home. For example, it's a pleasant, soft, and light perfume to wear after showering, without overwhelming the entire apartment. In public, when going out or at the office, it wouldn’t stand out negatively due to its low sillage, making it suitable for all occasions where one prefers to remain subtly in the background.
The longevity is just mediocre, corresponding to the lightness of the fragrance, so it certainly doesn't come close to Green Irish Tweed by Creed, with which I could identify a few similarities. (However, the comparison is not entirely appropriate.)
Overall, a successful, subtle fragrance that hardly changes over time, which is quite nice. You also feel good knowing you are wearing natural scent notes on your body, which mentally transports you to a summery forest clearing. Despite being labeled as a men's fragrance, I see No. 06 as a clear unisex scent. The bottle is simple and beautiful: a plain glass cube with a silver vaporizer, covered by an equally simple "wood block" with the brand name engraved on its top. It feels solid in hand and convinced me immediately. (It somewhat resembles the smaller bottles from Nasomatto.)
The price-performance ratio is good. Rituals No. 06 regularly costs around 40 euros for 50 ml. Currently, it is on sale; the saleswoman said it would be discontinued. The fact that the perfume can no longer be ordered online from Rituals confirms this statement initially. (The same likely applies to No. 18.)
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A Japanese from NYC?
Can this work? Can a US fashion company from New York release a modern, credible "Japanese" fragrance that convinces European noses? It's a complicated matter, because what Japanese people understand by a Japanese fragrance is likely quite different from what Europeans associate with the land of the rising sun, and certainly different from what Americans connect with Japan. Ultimately, one can only rely on their own feelings and possibly ignore the naming.
Due to a strong citrus note combined with subtle green, I would actually smell a southern, Mediterranean fragrance in Owari out of habit. Relatively early on, it becomes slightly woody and thus somewhat dry, which makes the EdP more wearable for men but shouldn't scare off women. In this sense, a successful unisex.
Even though I can't tell the difference between mandarin and Owari mandarin (is there even one?), I can increasingly warm up to the Japan connection, considering that the country is defined not only by technology and concrete deserts but above all by its unique culture and abundant nature in climate zones ranging from cold-temperate to subtropical. And I can certainly recognize that in Owari. Contrary to its Italian counterparts, this is indeed a winter fragrance (clearly mandarin) that can be perceived as festive in the cold season and refreshing in the summer.
The longevity is decent for a fresh fragrance, but it could still be a bit better for a perfume in this price range (130 €/100 ml). (On my skin, about 4 hours.)
The fragrance development is not particularly varied, which can be seen as a weakness, but doesn't have to be. I see it only as a clear statement and a straight line to follow. Unembellished, light, Japanese. Owari is not exciting, but beautiful.
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He does exist after all...
...the Christmas man. :) I wouldn't know whose signature Creed's Bois du Portugal could possibly be? If he wears it while watching the elves bake cookies in the warm kitchen, the scent doesn't hit him right away. When the child on his lap expresses this year's wishes, it feels familiar and not intimidating. On the nighttime sleigh ride over the cold winter landscape, it gives him warmth and keeps him from shivering. And when he comes out of the last carmine, perhaps the pleasant cinnamon (?) still prevails over the smoky ash. Even on vacation in his Portuguese summer residence, he can dare to go out in sandals.
I don't believe in mythical creatures like Napoleon and such. But the existence of the Christmas man is hereby proven. And he's pretty cool. QED.
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A Little Sip of Orange Juice Spritzer
I can't quite understand the enthusiasm that currently surrounds this EdT. Through the numerous comments and blogs, I absolutely wanted to test September. And I did: in the morning / during the day, in the evening / at night. I sprayed September generously, reapplying several times to get me through the day, so to speak. Unfortunately, on my skin, the scent is very fleeting at all times. I also don't find an exciting scent development, which I didn't really expect either.
Nevertheless, I rated the scent itself at a solid 70% because I find it pleasant and very wearable. Moreover, I actually see a true unisex fragrance here. However, those who want a real orange scent, like a large glass of orange juice that you can sip for a long time, instead of a small spritzer, should turn to Orange Sanguine (Atelier Cologne). I'm also curious about the comparison with 02 Owari (Odin NY), which seems to be similar at least on the test strip.
One more piece of information for bottle lovers: Apparently, the current version of September will be the last in a printed bottle. The following bottles (all fragrances in this series from Kormann seem to have the same) will only be distinguishable by a hanging label.
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A Tuxedo as a Perfume
"Wear it like a tuxedo" was one of the advertising slogans that announced Dior Homme (and also Intense). In fact, the association is not as far-fetched as it often is. DHI has a noble, valuable character and is in no way understated. The powdery and sweet notes keep the fragrance relatively soft, while the bitter and masculine aspects are clearly perceptible but remain in the background. I can particularly agree with Mariella's comment: One could almost consider DHI a unisex fragrance. I can imagine it would suit some women. (For those who remember the Dior advertisement... in one sequence, it shows a woman spraying herself with it. Whether this was meant to be a poorly concealed hint or simply implies a longing for the masculine scent is something everyone can judge for themselves.)
DHI was my first consciously chosen perfume and my entry into the premium price and quality class. Therefore, I have a special connection to this scent. The parfum version is, compared to the EdT, a bit sweeter and heavier, in my opinion. Hence, I would now prefer the EdT, as I am not really a fan of too much sweetness and powder, and the excellent longevity of both versions hardly differs.
I wear this EdP only on certain occasions or to please the female gender. ;) The sillage is incredible and is probably only surpassed in my collection by Duro. I wear it like a tuxedo, even when I'm not wearing one.