Ttfortwo

This bottle! Shape! Cap! It bulges in and out, has someone punched holes in the edges and gnawed on the cap? And why do you hang something on it that looks from afar like some kind of steampunk beetle, some miniature machine, something that a pomadised, twirling-toothed Wilhelminian-style supervillain would send out in masses from his underground cave into the world to put an end to the Wilhelminian bourgeoisie. And then there's some other skinny tassel fuzzing around it? For me everything completely incomprehensible and at least as "not me" as the bags of this label

In fact, I only have a bottle lying here with me because a souk partner, from whom I had ordered a bottling, immediately sent me the remaining bottle. The content would not have been enough for more fillings

Now it is so that the fragrance in its uncompromising take-off and its colossal power reminds me a little bit of a steam-powered forge hammer, which at first raised the question whether the contents of the packaging were ironically quoted and exaggerated (hats off, I would have said), but no, the other bottles only vary in colour and everywhere there is an absurd buzzing about them.

The scent starts off without an acceleration phase, unrestrained and loud, doesn't say "please" and "thank you", but has such a cheeky street dog charm, rude, uncultivated, I can't resist. It starts out spicy and peppery and herbaceous, very, very dark, smoky and a bit tarry - the sunny bergamot doesn't have much to offer. Nice, I think and: Really different - in this price range you won't find too many scents with such a "walk and lick" attitude

Of course, the fragrance doesn't become really quiet in the transition to the heart note, that would be too bad, but more binding tones prevail. That's good, because now the fragrance becomes really wearable. I breathe smoky, very dark vanilla tones and if there were black jasmine, it would be in here. Suede says the pyramid, I want to believe it, both as a fragrance ingredient and as the haptic equivalent of the fragrance: it's rough and wild and velvety at the same time now. The slight angularity and naughtiness that also remains in the heart note prevents it from slipping into an all too arbitrary warm and soft vanilla banality and sufficiently breaks up the now distinct sweetness. The street dog remains a street dog. But he lets himself be cuddled now.

"Bitter Sweet" is an exception in its price range, it dares a lot and does not want to please everyone. The fragrance doesn't undergo a big change in its last hours, at best it gets a little milder. The shelf life is very good.

8am: I make my way to the home office (a very short walk, then) and decide to pit my freshly purchased Samsara Extrait against Samsara Eau de Parfum (the current version). I've had the EdP since last year and I love it.

So I apply to the right wrist a - only one and probably also rather carefully applied - spray of Samsara EdP and very briefly rises a perky cloud, a hint of nose-fresh lemon, paired with the matte floral and slightly dusty bergamot and the wonderful Guerlain peach (everyone always talks about the famous Guerlain vanilla, shall be fine with me, they can indeed very well, but has anyone ever noticed how well Guerlain can peach - a fragrance that others almost notoriously soup in the synthetic-squeaky peach fruit gum direction (sour)?). The accord becomes medium-dark quite quickly - I capture the fresher notes after only a few minutes with just my nose on my skin. This is different, by the way, when I spray the clothes, there the brighter notes remain clearly longer perceptible. But I want to test yes on the skin.

On the left wrist, in turn, I strip a touch of the closure of the Samsaraflascherls, the Extrait. A touch only, but it is a statement: the subjective olfactory impression of this almost homeopathic application is at least as present as with the sprayed EdP. Here I look for the fresher notes almost in vain, the extrait starts (sprayed it probably seems a bit fresher) right with the real statement and that is: sandalwood. Strong, dark mollige, spiced sandalwood, the other notes are decoration and ornamentation and wonderful accessory, only the iris powder I can still grasp as a single note.

9 AM: Both fragrances are on par and have also evolved into a fairly similar soft, dark-colored scent impression. Plump sandalwood dominates, to me the Extrait now seems spicier and perhaps also denser, softer, a bit more velvety, the EdP is a bit more floral, the jasmine has used its chance well, I would say. Both scents projection is neatly perceptible - again and again puff sandelseelig spicy clouds on and I can not say whether they ultimately come from the right or left wrist.

10 o'clock: There is not yet really something new to report. I sit overjoyed in this matte floral-spicy sandalwood cloud, smell sometimes right, sometimes left and hardly notice a difference.

11: Look at that, the Extrait seems to be weakening a bit. The EdP has the nose in terms of fragrance intensity now clearly in front, a surprising turn in a competition in which the winner seemed to be already determined in advance.

12 o'clock: All-clear. The EdP has ignited the last stage and slowly sinks back towards the base note diwan.

The Extrait, however, still seems very rested, the heart notes smell present and it also seems to have gained again: It is also at a distance again more audible.

And: I finally find an expression for what I felt with both already the whole scent course, security namely. Gently spiced vanilla, sandal embrace, powder peacefulness.

1 pm: The EdP rests and will do so for many hours and the technical winner is determined. It is the extrait, it has more endurance, even if the floral notes very slowly become quieter.

2 pm: The extrait also begins to retreat. A buttery smooth glide into the base notes begins, which becomes

15 o'clock approximately approaches completion.

Around 16 o'clock, both versions are back on par. Both base notes smell wonderfully comforting and embracing and peaceful, warm and homey and I sniff sometimes left, sometimes right and know from experience that I will do this for a long time. And a small miracle: Completely unexpectedly puffs even now still from time to time a sandal clouds on - even the base notes still have a certain outside effect.

Conclusion: both have done quite famously on my Duftfresserhaut - many other parfumotestierte fragrance monster performers have given up in many tests much earlier.

The Extrait scores with maximum fragrance development with minimal dosage - a tiny wiper was enough for the whole day and it smells over a few hours always a little bit softer, gentler, more comforting and delicately darker than the Eau de Parfum, which is a little brighter and a touch edgier.

The EdP, however, costs only a fraction and is - in itself - a wonderful soft woody velvety fragrance of great beauty.

But my heart winner remains the perfume. Because it - apart from this short 11 o'clock sag - always had a nose advantage and because it is able to make the world - and especially this cruel, dusky and rainy Vorherbsttag - a little bit nicer.

Last but not least: I have published this text with the same wording at the Extrait, after all, it affects both versions in equal parts. So do not be surprised. And: Should this contradict any rules, then simply say it, I delete then an article.

8am: I make my way to the home office (a very short walk, that is) and decide to pit my freshly purchased Samsara Extrait against Samsara Eau de Parfum (the current version). I've had the EdP since last year and I love it.

So I apply to the right wrist a - only one and probably also rather carefully applied - spray of Samsara EdP and very briefly rises a perky cloud, a hint of nose-fresh lemon, paired with the matte floral and slightly dusty bergamot and the wonderful Guerlain peach (everyone always talks about the famous Guerlain vanilla, shall be fine with me, they can indeed very well, but has anyone ever noticed how well Guerlain can peach - a fragrance that others almost notoriously soup in the synthetic-squeaky peach fruit gum direction (sour)?). The accord becomes medium-dark quite quickly - I capture the fresher notes after only a few minutes with just my nose on my skin. This is different, by the way, when I spray the clothes, there the brighter notes remain clearly longer perceptible. But I want to test yes on the skin.

On the left wrist, in turn, I strip a touch of the closure of the Samsaraflascherls, the Extrait. A touch only, but it is a statement: the subjective olfactory impression of this almost homeopathic application is at least as present as with the sprayed EdP. Here I look for the fresher notes almost in vain, the extrait starts (sprayed it probably seems a bit fresher) right with the real statement and that is: sandalwood. Strong, dark mollige, spiced sandalwood, the other notes are ornaments and decoration and wonderful accessories, only the iris powder I can still grasp as a single note.

9 AM: Both fragrances are on par and have also evolved into a fairly similar soft, dark-colored scent impression. Plump sandalwood dominates, to me the Extrait now seems spicier and perhaps also denser, softer, a bit more velvety, the EdP is a bit more floral, the jasmine has used its chance well, I would say. Both scents projection is neatly perceptible - again and again puff sandelseelig spicy clouds on and I can not say whether they ultimately come from the right or left wrist.

10 o'clock: There is not yet really something new to report. I sit overjoyed in this matte floral-spicy sandalwood cloud, smell sometimes right, sometimes left and hardly notice a difference.

11: Look at that, the Extrait seems to be weakening a bit. The EdP has the nose in terms of fragrance intensity now clearly in front, a surprising turn in a competition in which the winner seemed to be already determined in advance.

12 o'clock: All-clear. The EdP has ignited the last stage and slowly sinks back towards the base note diwan.

The Extrait, however, still seems very rested, the heart notes smell present and it also seems to have gained again: It is also at a distance again more audible.

And: I finally find an expression for what I felt with both already the whole scent course, security namely. Gently spiced vanilla, sandal embrace, powder peacefulness.

1 pm: The EdP rests and will do so for many hours and the technical winner is determined. It is the extrait, it has more endurance, even if the floral notes very slowly become quieter.

2 pm: The extrait also begins to retreat. A buttery smooth glide into the base notes begins, which becomes

15 o'clock approximately approaches completion.

Around 16 o'clock, both versions are back on par. Both base notes smell wonderfully comforting and embracing and peaceful, warm and homey and I sniff sometimes left, sometimes right and know from experience that I will do this for a long time. And a small miracle: Completely unexpectedly puffs even now still from time to time a sandal clouds on - even the base notes still have a certain outside effect.

Conclusion: both have done quite famously on my Duftfresserhaut - many other parfumotestierte fragrance monster performers have given up in many tests much earlier.

The Extrait scores with maximum fragrance development with minimal dosage - a tiny wiper was enough for the whole day and it smells over a few hours always a little bit softer, gentler, more comforting and delicately darker than the Eau de Parfum, which is a little brighter and a touch edgier.

The EdP, however, costs only a fraction and is - in itself - a wonderful soft woody velvety fragrance of great beauty.

But my heart winner remains the perfume. Because it - apart from this short 11 o'clock droop - always had a nose advantage and because it is able to make the world - and especially this cruel, crusty and rainy Vorherbsttag - a little bit nicer.

Last but not least: I will publish this text identically at the Eau de Parfum, after all, it affects both versions to equal parts. So do not be surprised. And: Should this contradict any rules, then just say it, I delete then an article.

... is actually a misleading title for the fragrance, because neither the Rohmer film is meant, nor the optical phenomenon itself.

Rohmer's film, a vague, floating and rather open-ended sketch of the sensitivities of a young lady with a slightly wavering soul, close to getting lost, viewed from a distance, more descriptive than explanatory - the whole thing very French mithin - but also has nothing to do with Lauder's great fragrance classic.

Lauder's fragrance is - so seen - very American. Complex yes, but at the same time open and straight. Lauder's "Private Collection" goes through the world with the self-evident relaxedness of an American upper class, with the certainty of being in the right place - and for good reason.

Even the optical phenomenon, namely that in the very last seconds of sunset rare light refraction phenomena make the sun itself, sometimes even layers of air above it glow green, is not meant: does it shine at the end of the solar day, a magical brief moment just before dawn.

"Private Collection" actually glows and in green - but it sprays this magical green radiance very early in the course, in the top note and with the color of the chrome diopside: dark green namely, a little metallic and yet light-filled. Mugler's Aura bottle (which I find quite magnificent - in contrast to its contents) comes to mind. A huge dose of herbaceous-grassy notes, torn, shredded stems, ruffled green leaves and leafy juiciness surrounds the startled scent wearer in the first few seconds. Duftsuchts dandelion stalk comparison is perfectly chosen, I can not think of anything, even with prolonged reflection, which better described the essence of the top note.

Now it is so that I had this fragrance already in the 80s, in a version that was then called "pure fragrance". It was the same bottle, but this rested in an elaborately designed two-part box , rather like extracts are presented. Whether it was actually the perfume at the time - I don't know. By the way, the green overkill top note was the reason for me to get "Private Collection" as a gift at the time, only it seems to me that it wasn't quite as herbaceous-stalky-glandular as that of the current EdP back then, a touch softer and gentler perhaps. This may be due to a reformulation or the fact that perfumes (so it would have been then one) almost always seem a little rounder than the corresponding Eaux - or just a deficient fragrance memory.

Green luminous remains the fragrance well into its heart, but the color changes, he becomes a little softer and gentler, orange blossom and golden ylang shift the spectrum into the olive green-green-gold. Honeysuckle remains perceptible, in a gossamer bitter and very grown-up, serious version. I give Duftsucht also here volllkommen right: the also great Fragonard de Fragonard, a waschechter honeysuckle scent, is clearly more lovely, the old Rocher- Chèvrefeuille was cooler.

The olive green glow of the heart note is indeed an amazing phenomenon, translucent rather than transparent, with great depth. The gentle bitterness mutes the orange blossom and ylang-ylang, padding them a bit, just enough so that the notes don't seem dull. The projection is remarkable, the fragrance is confident in an unexciting way.

The durability, by the way, is fabulous, for hours this soft luminous green surrounds me.

A few more thoughts about the perfumer, Vincent Marcello. Three fragrances has Parfumo to him in the database - all three imperishable classics, masterpieces, milestones. "Private Collection," "Yatagan," and Halston's "Z-14." Why only these three? What might have happened? Illness, accident, a personal break, death? Or did a world-class talent say to himself: "I'll just knock out three world-class brain-hammer fragrances, then retire and let them all beg?

A - admittedly at most medium-deep - research on the net has yielded nothing further besides the hits as a perfumer of the above-mentioned fragrances . A source wondered as well as I about the apparent disappearance of the master without a trace, but otherwise? Does anyone here know more?

To the lowest level of the shelves namely, but still and hallelujah!, they still exist. They were probably rarely really first cast, some also rather regional celebrities. Tosca comes to mind, as (unfortunately also no longer available) perfume warm-powdery and beautiful, the elegant and somewhat repellent Arpège belongs to it, the classic Rochasdüfte or even Maja (even if only still available over the net).

Maja, renovated many times presumably, at least one change of ownership, should hardly still smell like in her year of birth, 1918. The currently available version should have its roots in the 70s, then Maja had long since relegated to the third and available in all drugstores for relatively little money. As a soap, very clove-heavy and dark, as a skin cream and as an eau de toilette, the brand overall a bit more expensive than the other (still relatively few) fragrances that were available in drugstores at the time, but still affordable.

At some point, probably no one in Europe wanted to wear Maja - Myrurgia was sold in 2012 to Puig and Maja to Mexico, to a manufacturer called Grisi and if you look at its webpage, it seems something like a one-peso store, a little here what and something there, and overall very, very cheap. At the same time, Grisi produced the year before last - on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the fragrance - a limited edition Maja as an eau de parfum in a surprisingly pretty and valuable balloon atomizer.

Interestingly, the brand Maja is also represented on the Grisi site at the moment only with body care, moreover, it is surprising that many offers on amazon (Again? Or still?) Myrurgia as manufacturer indicate. Back to the roots, so is Maja produced by Myrurgia again? Hard to say, one of the latest halfway serious information about Myrurgia that I could get from the net is just that of the sale to Puig, after that there is not too much more. Confusing. And perhaps a hint to get a bunker bottle for safety's sake, before Maja could finally no longer be available.

Because Maja, the (pretty) girl, is a really exquisite little beauty. And with a lot of temperament at the beginning: the top note gallops off laughing exuberantly, with a hefty blob of honey on floral citrus and orange blossom, I also mean to smell golden ylang-ylang. A few aldehydes, perhaps? Youthful Maja smells summery, sunny, carefree and self-confident.

Then she becomes calmer, more serious, but with smiling eyes: the dense honey sweetness fades, the fragrance becomes more transparent and airy, gold becomes silver, boisterous jumps become relaxed walking.

In my memory, Maja used to smell much more clove- and somehow more alchemical, herbaceous and herbaceous - the current version does not.

Despite delicate garden clove spiciness, it holds no secret, it lays its heart bare. The rose geranium, always somewhat distant and waiting, a rather cool-smelling rose and the gently dosed spice result in a wonderfully delicate, gently floating, very delicately powdered fragrance, transparent and friendly. A mauve, gossamer organza stole, delicately iridescent and so light that it almost floats. A little treasure for every lover of rather classic floral fragrance signatures.

Thus, the fragrance remains on the skin for several hours, on clothes naturally longer. Maja accompanies me gently smiling to the office and she is a quite wonderful unobtrusive travel companion, always there, and never "too": Not too loud, not too fresh, not too off-putting, not too sweet, not too dense.

In the transition to the base note, Maja becomes more confidential in a very endearing way, she comes closer to me, lays her head on my shoulder and shows me her friendship with a very light, wonderfully airy-soft warmth for another hour or two.

Maja, my beauty, you smell really good and much, much more expensive than the ridiculous price at which you are being sold off would suggest. You do not deserve that, even in your current version. In any case, I'll be sure to stock up on another bottle, so that you and I can be friends for a long time to come. Because I like you very much.