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Notes06/09/2021
Serenissima
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Serenissima
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with clean lines
In 1944, Mrs. Estée Lauder appeared on the New York "stage of beauty", which was dominated by two impressive ladies.
One was Elizabeth Arden, called Miss Arden; also known for the "Red Door" that led into her beauty world, which was also the inspiration for the fragrance of the same name.
The other was Helena Rubinstein, known only as "Madame" by her associates, built her empire in parallel.
The two engaged in fierce and vicious competitive battles; the "powder war" that took place in the thirties is legendary in the industry.
They had staked out their empires by now, but were still trying to hurt each other.
One begrudged the other any success, nothing was too dirty not to be used.
In the Bavarian/Austrian world, both ladies would have been well served by the name "Bissgurn".
In this world, a young woman suddenly appeared: Estée Lauder.
With her homemade line of skincare and cosmetics and equipped with the necessary concession, she rented a booth in Mrs. Florence Morris's salon and thus began her ascent.
The individual treatment booths were separated from each other by screens; each of the women worked for herself, paying Mrs. Morris only a monthly user fee.
Of course, this activity did not go unnoticed by the two "highnesses" of the scene.
But Mrs. Lauder was smart: she stayed below the radar of these two and specialized in treating young women her age.
For both "queens" had already had to replace their youthfulness with maturity and the art of cosmetics.
Estée Lauder's products are as clear and straightforward as her beauty: nothing is loud or superfluous; everything is quiet and noble. Here it is shown that sometimes less is more after all.
I have just finished reading the third part of a series of novels about this world of the ladies Arden and Rubinstein, their "powder war" and the development of their businesses in their time.
That's also where I met Estée Lauder, who was going to be given a hard time.
After the beautiful "Youth-Dew" is "Private Collection" now the third fragrance of this brand, which I was allowed to test.
At the very beginning was "Spellbound", which I commented on earlier and which still reflects the essence of this woman.
"Private Collection" thrills me with honeysuckle alone - how I love the scent of honeysuckle.
Looking at the release dates, honeysuckle seems to have had a renaissance in the seventies.
I'm thinking here only of Yves Rocher's "Chèvrefeuille", launched in 1976, much loved and lamented, since now sadly discontinued in its original form.
In "Private Collection", honeysuckle is allowed to climb and smell in its most beautiful, sun-drenched form. Its blossom-strewn tendrils also entwine immediately after the first spray: summery, slightly rustic honey aroma spreads and dances around in the cheerful round dance.
Skillfully Ylang-Ylang, nobler, but no less fragrant and floral, was inserted into this fragrance web.
A fragrant robe of skillfully interwoven flower and leaf tendrils is thus created, before the delicate orange blossom blends in to further delight the heart and senses.
Coriander provides pleasant green spice and already is a light summer noble fragrance garment in the making.
Patchouli and sandalwood unite sensually and warmly, bringing darker golden-brown scent tones to this creation and thus giving it not only additional beauty, but also stability.
"Private Collection" is thus elegantly completed and allowed to develop its charm fully and unrestricted.
What it also does without additional request!
Here a fragrance was composed, which reminds in its straight, clear lines in the first moment of "Aromatics Elexir".
But this is an impression of the moment, because "Private Collection" also gets along without the usual pomp and opulent fuss for this time.
Summery light, but not too pastoral, floral and with light spice and sensual hints, something very magical and all-day wearable was created here.
It succeeded in giving this light-footed fragrance a surprising durability.
So it is possible to spray on "Private Collection" already in the morning, to spend the day with him and in the evening still go out together.
But what should never prevent to re-spray, if this need exists or simply for pleasure.
I think Estée Lauder's "Private Collection" will accompany me until the bottling is empty.
Then we'll see if the two of us stay together.
But for now, I start this Wednesday surrounded by Mrs Lauder's summery lightness and wish a "good morning"!
One was Elizabeth Arden, called Miss Arden; also known for the "Red Door" that led into her beauty world, which was also the inspiration for the fragrance of the same name.
The other was Helena Rubinstein, known only as "Madame" by her associates, built her empire in parallel.
The two engaged in fierce and vicious competitive battles; the "powder war" that took place in the thirties is legendary in the industry.
They had staked out their empires by now, but were still trying to hurt each other.
One begrudged the other any success, nothing was too dirty not to be used.
In the Bavarian/Austrian world, both ladies would have been well served by the name "Bissgurn".
In this world, a young woman suddenly appeared: Estée Lauder.
With her homemade line of skincare and cosmetics and equipped with the necessary concession, she rented a booth in Mrs. Florence Morris's salon and thus began her ascent.
The individual treatment booths were separated from each other by screens; each of the women worked for herself, paying Mrs. Morris only a monthly user fee.
Of course, this activity did not go unnoticed by the two "highnesses" of the scene.
But Mrs. Lauder was smart: she stayed below the radar of these two and specialized in treating young women her age.
For both "queens" had already had to replace their youthfulness with maturity and the art of cosmetics.
Estée Lauder's products are as clear and straightforward as her beauty: nothing is loud or superfluous; everything is quiet and noble. Here it is shown that sometimes less is more after all.
I have just finished reading the third part of a series of novels about this world of the ladies Arden and Rubinstein, their "powder war" and the development of their businesses in their time.
That's also where I met Estée Lauder, who was going to be given a hard time.
After the beautiful "Youth-Dew" is "Private Collection" now the third fragrance of this brand, which I was allowed to test.
At the very beginning was "Spellbound", which I commented on earlier and which still reflects the essence of this woman.
"Private Collection" thrills me with honeysuckle alone - how I love the scent of honeysuckle.
Looking at the release dates, honeysuckle seems to have had a renaissance in the seventies.
I'm thinking here only of Yves Rocher's "Chèvrefeuille", launched in 1976, much loved and lamented, since now sadly discontinued in its original form.
In "Private Collection", honeysuckle is allowed to climb and smell in its most beautiful, sun-drenched form. Its blossom-strewn tendrils also entwine immediately after the first spray: summery, slightly rustic honey aroma spreads and dances around in the cheerful round dance.
Skillfully Ylang-Ylang, nobler, but no less fragrant and floral, was inserted into this fragrance web.
A fragrant robe of skillfully interwoven flower and leaf tendrils is thus created, before the delicate orange blossom blends in to further delight the heart and senses.
Coriander provides pleasant green spice and already is a light summer noble fragrance garment in the making.
Patchouli and sandalwood unite sensually and warmly, bringing darker golden-brown scent tones to this creation and thus giving it not only additional beauty, but also stability.
"Private Collection" is thus elegantly completed and allowed to develop its charm fully and unrestricted.
What it also does without additional request!
Here a fragrance was composed, which reminds in its straight, clear lines in the first moment of "Aromatics Elexir".
But this is an impression of the moment, because "Private Collection" also gets along without the usual pomp and opulent fuss for this time.
Summery light, but not too pastoral, floral and with light spice and sensual hints, something very magical and all-day wearable was created here.
It succeeded in giving this light-footed fragrance a surprising durability.
So it is possible to spray on "Private Collection" already in the morning, to spend the day with him and in the evening still go out together.
But what should never prevent to re-spray, if this need exists or simply for pleasure.
I think Estée Lauder's "Private Collection" will accompany me until the bottling is empty.
Then we'll see if the two of us stay together.
But for now, I start this Wednesday surrounded by Mrs Lauder's summery lightness and wish a "good morning"!
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