Yatagan
Reviews
Filter & sort
Yatagan
Translated
Show original
Black Cologne Water
I am fascinated by fragrances that combine seemingly irreconcilable opposites: Jasmine or tuberose fragrances for men, oriental vetivers - and dark, heavy eau de colognes / cologne waters.
As explained in my blog on the subject of Eau de Cologne, the following components belong to a classic Cologne water: Neroli (possibly orange blossom, but usually too sweet), lemon, bergamot and / or: petitgrain, mandarin, lime, grapefruit (Hesperidia), cedar (as light, light wood), lavender (as the freshest and lightest of all florals), rosemary (and / or comparable light herbs).
In my blog I further claim that the absence of dark, heavy, oriental tones such as patchouli, sandalwood, oud, vanilla, amber / amber, larger amounts of musk, labdanum, tonka, civet and beaver geil (at best in the smallest doses) is just as important. The green-woody and earthy basic accent vetiver (in all its derived variants: vetivery acetate, vetiver oil) is also more likely to be avoided, since it can quickly imprint a vetiver stamp on a fragrance and would thus inadmissibly change its basic character. The list could be extended by other striking green resinous tones (mint, resin, moss) (quoted after my blog "Kölnische Wässer - 1709 und heute").
But what if you enrich a fragrance that initially meets all the criteria of a classic eau de cologne with darker, oriental or warm accents? Then something very fascinating can come out, in the best case a fragrance like Cologne Intense by Houbigant.
If you take a closer look at the list of ingredients, you won't notice anything unusual in the top note (and you could say that a Kölnisch Wasser has nothing else). It's all there: Neroli, bergamot, petitgrain, lemon, lavender, the light herbs (tarragon), but then surprisingly also a good portion of frankincense (the only drawback: you could have been a little more economical with the dosage of this ingredient), Labdanum / resin of the cistus (you smell: resinous, almost animal-like, as I always perceive Labdanum). Labdanum gives the fragrance a chypre twist that suits it well and makes it a few semitones deeper. The frankincense provides for an oriental impact, which remains however still very bright. I can't isolate patchouli and amber at all, and I can imagine the moss smelling from many, but I don't see it in the foreground. More like musk, which in the base note intensifies the tingling tones of incense.
All in all, Cologne Intense is a good example of a bold creation that uses a basic scheme but varies it greatly. Oriental Colgnes would be worth a blog of their own, but at least I want to mention Eau de Memo, which varies the Cologne theme with leather, the Chypre-Cologne men's classic Pour Monsieur by Chanel - or some Acqua, the Parma fragrances and the Déclaration series by Cartier. But that's just a first, very rough grid. Here is the proposal for a collection ("Black Colognes"):
https://www.parfumo.de/Benutzer/Yatagan/Sammlung/Cust19
For getting to know such an experiment, a test of Houbigant's second big litter after Fougère Royale would be highly recommended, but a black Cologne would be strongly discouraged from blind purchases.
As explained in my blog on the subject of Eau de Cologne, the following components belong to a classic Cologne water: Neroli (possibly orange blossom, but usually too sweet), lemon, bergamot and / or: petitgrain, mandarin, lime, grapefruit (Hesperidia), cedar (as light, light wood), lavender (as the freshest and lightest of all florals), rosemary (and / or comparable light herbs).
In my blog I further claim that the absence of dark, heavy, oriental tones such as patchouli, sandalwood, oud, vanilla, amber / amber, larger amounts of musk, labdanum, tonka, civet and beaver geil (at best in the smallest doses) is just as important. The green-woody and earthy basic accent vetiver (in all its derived variants: vetivery acetate, vetiver oil) is also more likely to be avoided, since it can quickly imprint a vetiver stamp on a fragrance and would thus inadmissibly change its basic character. The list could be extended by other striking green resinous tones (mint, resin, moss) (quoted after my blog "Kölnische Wässer - 1709 und heute").
But what if you enrich a fragrance that initially meets all the criteria of a classic eau de cologne with darker, oriental or warm accents? Then something very fascinating can come out, in the best case a fragrance like Cologne Intense by Houbigant.
If you take a closer look at the list of ingredients, you won't notice anything unusual in the top note (and you could say that a Kölnisch Wasser has nothing else). It's all there: Neroli, bergamot, petitgrain, lemon, lavender, the light herbs (tarragon), but then surprisingly also a good portion of frankincense (the only drawback: you could have been a little more economical with the dosage of this ingredient), Labdanum / resin of the cistus (you smell: resinous, almost animal-like, as I always perceive Labdanum). Labdanum gives the fragrance a chypre twist that suits it well and makes it a few semitones deeper. The frankincense provides for an oriental impact, which remains however still very bright. I can't isolate patchouli and amber at all, and I can imagine the moss smelling from many, but I don't see it in the foreground. More like musk, which in the base note intensifies the tingling tones of incense.
All in all, Cologne Intense is a good example of a bold creation that uses a basic scheme but varies it greatly. Oriental Colgnes would be worth a blog of their own, but at least I want to mention Eau de Memo, which varies the Cologne theme with leather, the Chypre-Cologne men's classic Pour Monsieur by Chanel - or some Acqua, the Parma fragrances and the Déclaration series by Cartier. But that's just a first, very rough grid. Here is the proposal for a collection ("Black Colognes"):
https://www.parfumo.de/Benutzer/Yatagan/Sammlung/Cust19
For getting to know such an experiment, a test of Houbigant's second big litter after Fougère Royale would be highly recommended, but a black Cologne would be strongly discouraged from blind purchases.
33 Comments
Translated
Show original
May men wear white-flowered flowers?
The question which fragrances men or women prefer to wear leads to endless discussions about attributions, gender identities or gender roles. I will simply relieve the discourse at this point and postulate that this is not necessary, so I will not write anything about it here and will not discuss it either.
With one exception: the question of what you feel comfortable with. For me personally, a boundary is often only crossed when a fragrance has a strong dominance of white flowers: tuberose, jasmine, ylang ylang, gardenia, tiare, lily of the valley, narcissus, orange blossom... I suppose it's the same for most men. Conversely, for me this also means that fragrances containing the above-mentioned notes are a particular challenge for perfumers and particularly attractive for tolerant wearers (this is not a generic masculine here). In other words: If it is possible to integrate a strong white-flowering note into men's fragrances without immediately having to think of a women's fragrance, then a small, bulky work of art has been created. In the past I had therefore often dealt with men's fragrances that contained a noticeable but masculine interpretation of tuberose (see my comments on Afteliers Cepes & Tuberose, Barutis Voyance, especially Jardin d'Écrivains Marlowe) and my special collection "Tuberose XY":
<font color="#ffff00">-=https://www.parfumo.de/Benutzer/Yatagan/Sammlung/Cust8=- proudly presents
I am especially grateful to Terra for the request in his latest blog which fragrances with classic white flower components (jasmine, ylang, orange blossom etc.) are suitable as men's fragrances for the summer. For myself (and for those interested) I have also created a - naturally manageable - collection for this variant, namely "Weißblüher XY":
https://www.parfumo.de/Benutzer/Yatagan/Sammlung/Cust16
More tips can be found in Terra's exciting blog.
By the way, this thread excludes the most classic of all variants, the kölnisch water with its high Neroli content. Of course, there would be many more fragrances in this Cologne segment with white flower notes, which can be wonderfully worn by men. I myself love this fragrance archetype very much! Here and now he should not interest us either.
One of the fragrances that I spontaneously located in the above-mentioned Weißblüher XY collection is Acqua di Parmas Chinotto di Liguria, which I was grateful to Couchlock for bringing to my attention with a sample.
For me, this fragrance is one of the most interesting representatives of men's white flower fragrances (for the summer), because it explores the marchness of jasmine, which plays the role of the white flower, to the limit of what is compatible with men's fragrances. The jasmine is dammed up above all by a bitter-sour note, which probably comes from Chinotto (see ingredients), a bitter orange variety, as I know in the meantime. Responsible for the masculine part would perhaps also be the spicy green note, which reminds me a little of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantiers almost lost Baimé (but fortunately in my collection). There, however, the kitchen herbs are so pronounced that I removed them from the above collection. Baimé is actually almost better suited for winter.
Can anything else be said about Chinotto di Liguria? Actually only that he will certainly polarize, which can already be seen from the comments and statements made so far, and that I personally like him very much. For men who are open minded, a clear test recommendation - like almost all of the blue AdP series!
With one exception: the question of what you feel comfortable with. For me personally, a boundary is often only crossed when a fragrance has a strong dominance of white flowers: tuberose, jasmine, ylang ylang, gardenia, tiare, lily of the valley, narcissus, orange blossom... I suppose it's the same for most men. Conversely, for me this also means that fragrances containing the above-mentioned notes are a particular challenge for perfumers and particularly attractive for tolerant wearers (this is not a generic masculine here). In other words: If it is possible to integrate a strong white-flowering note into men's fragrances without immediately having to think of a women's fragrance, then a small, bulky work of art has been created. In the past I had therefore often dealt with men's fragrances that contained a noticeable but masculine interpretation of tuberose (see my comments on Afteliers Cepes & Tuberose, Barutis Voyance, especially Jardin d'Écrivains Marlowe) and my special collection "Tuberose XY":
<font color="#ffff00">-=https://www.parfumo.de/Benutzer/Yatagan/Sammlung/Cust8=- proudly presents
I am especially grateful to Terra for the request in his latest blog which fragrances with classic white flower components (jasmine, ylang, orange blossom etc.) are suitable as men's fragrances for the summer. For myself (and for those interested) I have also created a - naturally manageable - collection for this variant, namely "Weißblüher XY":
https://www.parfumo.de/Benutzer/Yatagan/Sammlung/Cust16
More tips can be found in Terra's exciting blog.
By the way, this thread excludes the most classic of all variants, the kölnisch water with its high Neroli content. Of course, there would be many more fragrances in this Cologne segment with white flower notes, which can be wonderfully worn by men. I myself love this fragrance archetype very much! Here and now he should not interest us either.
One of the fragrances that I spontaneously located in the above-mentioned Weißblüher XY collection is Acqua di Parmas Chinotto di Liguria, which I was grateful to Couchlock for bringing to my attention with a sample.
For me, this fragrance is one of the most interesting representatives of men's white flower fragrances (for the summer), because it explores the marchness of jasmine, which plays the role of the white flower, to the limit of what is compatible with men's fragrances. The jasmine is dammed up above all by a bitter-sour note, which probably comes from Chinotto (see ingredients), a bitter orange variety, as I know in the meantime. Responsible for the masculine part would perhaps also be the spicy green note, which reminds me a little of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantiers almost lost Baimé (but fortunately in my collection). There, however, the kitchen herbs are so pronounced that I removed them from the above collection. Baimé is actually almost better suited for winter.
Can anything else be said about Chinotto di Liguria? Actually only that he will certainly polarize, which can already be seen from the comments and statements made so far, and that I personally like him very much. For men who are open minded, a clear test recommendation - like almost all of the blue AdP series!
42 Comments
Translated
Show original
Montauk is everywhere 3
Uncommented fragrances No. 122
Montauk is a small town on the eastern tip of Long Island in the USA and is known through the story of the same name by Max Frisch. With a little luck, the village will become even more famous through the fragrance series "Une Nuit à Montauk" by the manufacturer "Une Nuit Nomade". But there is probably the wish of the father of the thought.
Until now, the fragrances of Une Nuit Nomade have received little attention here on Parfumo and have rarely been appreciated in detail. The entire Montauk series still presents itself without comment, and the other fragrances of the brand are not exactly crowded by elites either.
I personally like almost all fragrances and I am now taking the opportunity to do some advertising for testing this exciting brand. All of them are easily available via the homepage; above all, there are test material (two sets) at acceptable prices, which should be consulted urgently before making a blind purchase. The fragrances are idiosyncratic, yet completely uncomplicated to wear, so they do not belong to any kind of avant-garde. This is about wearability on the one hand, but also about distinctiveness on the other hand.
All three fragrances feature two common scent components (Rose America: rose and carnation / Memory Motel: patchouli and carnation / Bohemian Soul, the latest fragrance: frankincense and wood), but they also set new accents by initially not taking the combination for granted (e.g. rose and carnation in a striking form: rather rare) and by adding notes that are rather surprising in this context.
Of the three fragrances in the "Une Nuit à Montauk" series, I like Bohemian Soul best. While I'm rather hesitant to forgive 8.0 at Rose America, and didn't consider more than 8.0 at Memory Motel, I waver a bit at Bohemian Soul and decide to go for 8.5. The fragrance reminds me in its pattern (not in the sense of a fragrance twin) of Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir. For Goodsir, it's the galbanum that is responsible for this dark green note, which robs the fragrance of any floral sweetness. Also wood and resinous. Of course, this is a completely different structure than that of Bohemian Soul: but in my opinion, the result is similar and reveals a kinship of ideas.
In contrast, Bohemian Soul: While incense and wood form a quite common, but always beautiful combination, a bitter-green tone (probably the indicated wormwood and / or myrrh) provides a harsh and green contrast. This is a little reminiscent of fragrances with a strong galbanum content (see above: Nuit de Bakélite). The fragrance is completely unsweet (there's no other way to describe the complete absence of fruity, amber or gourmand tones) and yet very charming: the smoky is underlined by musk and iris, the green is strongly present at all times without appearing herbaceous or pungent: rather planty, dark, almost warm, a bit earthy: like coming home to your own garden.
Like Rose America and Memory Motel, this fragrance also goes its own way and finds its goal: wearability and originality combined! In the soul of the artist lives the spirit of the bourgeoisie.
Montauk is a small town on the eastern tip of Long Island in the USA and is known through the story of the same name by Max Frisch. With a little luck, the village will become even more famous through the fragrance series "Une Nuit à Montauk" by the manufacturer "Une Nuit Nomade". But there is probably the wish of the father of the thought.
Until now, the fragrances of Une Nuit Nomade have received little attention here on Parfumo and have rarely been appreciated in detail. The entire Montauk series still presents itself without comment, and the other fragrances of the brand are not exactly crowded by elites either.
I personally like almost all fragrances and I am now taking the opportunity to do some advertising for testing this exciting brand. All of them are easily available via the homepage; above all, there are test material (two sets) at acceptable prices, which should be consulted urgently before making a blind purchase. The fragrances are idiosyncratic, yet completely uncomplicated to wear, so they do not belong to any kind of avant-garde. This is about wearability on the one hand, but also about distinctiveness on the other hand.
All three fragrances feature two common scent components (Rose America: rose and carnation / Memory Motel: patchouli and carnation / Bohemian Soul, the latest fragrance: frankincense and wood), but they also set new accents by initially not taking the combination for granted (e.g. rose and carnation in a striking form: rather rare) and by adding notes that are rather surprising in this context.
Of the three fragrances in the "Une Nuit à Montauk" series, I like Bohemian Soul best. While I'm rather hesitant to forgive 8.0 at Rose America, and didn't consider more than 8.0 at Memory Motel, I waver a bit at Bohemian Soul and decide to go for 8.5. The fragrance reminds me in its pattern (not in the sense of a fragrance twin) of Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir. For Goodsir, it's the galbanum that is responsible for this dark green note, which robs the fragrance of any floral sweetness. Also wood and resinous. Of course, this is a completely different structure than that of Bohemian Soul: but in my opinion, the result is similar and reveals a kinship of ideas.
In contrast, Bohemian Soul: While incense and wood form a quite common, but always beautiful combination, a bitter-green tone (probably the indicated wormwood and / or myrrh) provides a harsh and green contrast. This is a little reminiscent of fragrances with a strong galbanum content (see above: Nuit de Bakélite). The fragrance is completely unsweet (there's no other way to describe the complete absence of fruity, amber or gourmand tones) and yet very charming: the smoky is underlined by musk and iris, the green is strongly present at all times without appearing herbaceous or pungent: rather planty, dark, almost warm, a bit earthy: like coming home to your own garden.
Like Rose America and Memory Motel, this fragrance also goes its own way and finds its goal: wearability and originality combined! In the soul of the artist lives the spirit of the bourgeoisie.
26 Comments
Translated
Show original
Montauk is everywhere 2
Uncommented fragrances No. 121
Montauk is a small town on the eastern tip of Long Island in the USA and is known through the story of the same name by Max Frisch. With a little luck, the village will become even more famous through the fragrance series "Une Nuit à Montauk" by the manufacturer "Une Nuit Nomade". But there is probably the wish of the father of the thought.
Until now, the fragrances of Une Nuit Nomade have received little attention here on Parfumo and have rarely been appreciated in detail. The entire Montauk series still presents itself without comment, and the other fragrances of the brand are not exactly crowded by elites either.
I personally like almost all fragrances and I am now taking the opportunity to do some advertising for testing this exciting brand. All of them are easily available via the homepage; above all, there are test material (two sets) at acceptable prices, which should be consulted urgently before making a blind purchase. The fragrances are idiosyncratic, yet completely uncomplicated to wear, so they do not belong to any kind of avant-garde. This is about wearability on the one hand, but also about distinctiveness on the other hand.
All three fragrances feature two common scent components (Rose America: rose and carnation / Memory Motel: patchouli and carnation / Bohemian Soul, the latest fragrance: frankincense and wood), but they also set new accents by initially not taking the combination for granted (e.g. rose and carnation in a striking form: rather rare) and by adding notes that are rather surprising in this context.
While Memory Motel combines rather dark components (tobacco, patchouli, carnation), Rose America's floral accents are the most important. However, the sum of the inconspicuous parts (rose, clove, raspberry: all three basic components seem to me to be easily perceptible) creates something quite new. The rose becomes rough on the one hand (due to the spicy-tart carnation) and green-fresh on the other hand (probably in combination with the raspberry). This leads to a somewhat bulky smell, which I like very much. Maybe Rose America is the most inconspicuous and least successful fragrance of the "Une Nuit à Montauk" series, but here too I choose the same rating, because Annick Ménardo has bred an original flower - and that's really not a matter of course.
Rose America is by no means a big hit, perhaps even less so than Memory Motel, the other fragrance in the series. Nevertheless, even the green, somewhat thorny rose is the beautiful design of a fragrance that combines new paths with old coordinates, and is therefore modestly convincing.
Montauk is a small town on the eastern tip of Long Island in the USA and is known through the story of the same name by Max Frisch. With a little luck, the village will become even more famous through the fragrance series "Une Nuit à Montauk" by the manufacturer "Une Nuit Nomade". But there is probably the wish of the father of the thought.
Until now, the fragrances of Une Nuit Nomade have received little attention here on Parfumo and have rarely been appreciated in detail. The entire Montauk series still presents itself without comment, and the other fragrances of the brand are not exactly crowded by elites either.
I personally like almost all fragrances and I am now taking the opportunity to do some advertising for testing this exciting brand. All of them are easily available via the homepage; above all, there are test material (two sets) at acceptable prices, which should be consulted urgently before making a blind purchase. The fragrances are idiosyncratic, yet completely uncomplicated to wear, so they do not belong to any kind of avant-garde. This is about wearability on the one hand, but also about distinctiveness on the other hand.
All three fragrances feature two common scent components (Rose America: rose and carnation / Memory Motel: patchouli and carnation / Bohemian Soul, the latest fragrance: frankincense and wood), but they also set new accents by initially not taking the combination for granted (e.g. rose and carnation in a striking form: rather rare) and by adding notes that are rather surprising in this context.
While Memory Motel combines rather dark components (tobacco, patchouli, carnation), Rose America's floral accents are the most important. However, the sum of the inconspicuous parts (rose, clove, raspberry: all three basic components seem to me to be easily perceptible) creates something quite new. The rose becomes rough on the one hand (due to the spicy-tart carnation) and green-fresh on the other hand (probably in combination with the raspberry). This leads to a somewhat bulky smell, which I like very much. Maybe Rose America is the most inconspicuous and least successful fragrance of the "Une Nuit à Montauk" series, but here too I choose the same rating, because Annick Ménardo has bred an original flower - and that's really not a matter of course.
Rose America is by no means a big hit, perhaps even less so than Memory Motel, the other fragrance in the series. Nevertheless, even the green, somewhat thorny rose is the beautiful design of a fragrance that combines new paths with old coordinates, and is therefore modestly convincing.
15 Comments
Translated
Show original
Montauk is everywhere 1
Uncommented fragrances No. 120
Montauk is a small town on the eastern tip of Long Island in the USA and is known through the story of the same name by Max Frisch. With a little luck, the village will become even more famous through the fragrance series "Une Nuit à Montauk" by the manufacturer "Une Nuit Nomade". But there is probably the wish of the father of the thought.
Until now, the fragrances of Une Nuit Nomade have received little attention here on Parfumo and have rarely been appreciated in detail. The entire Montauk series still presents itself without comment, and the other fragrances of the brand are not exactly crowded by elites either.
I personally like almost all fragrances and I am now taking the opportunity to do some advertising for testing this exciting brand. All of them are easily available via the homepage; above all, there are test material (two sets) at acceptable prices, which should be consulted urgently before making a blind purchase. The fragrances are idiosyncratic, yet completely uncomplicated to wear, so they do not belong to any kind of avant-garde. This is about wearability on the one hand, but also about distinctiveness on the other hand.
All three fragrances feature two common scent components (Rose America: rose and carnation / Memory Motel: patchouli and carnation / Bohemian Soul, the latest fragrance: frankincense and wood), but they also set new accents by initially not taking the combination for granted (e.g. rose and carnation in a striking form: rather rare) and by adding notes that are rather surprising in this context.
Memory Motel (a melancholic name that immediately brings to mind the Gurney's Inn hotel from Max Frisch's tale Montauk) is as engaging (patchouli) as it is bulky (sweet tobacco): The fresh bergamot prelude contrasts beautifully with the patchouli and the clove and a sweet tobacco note are easily perceived. So the fragrance doesn't come across as smooth, but it's not complicated to wear either, because after a while on the skin or on textile (the fragrance comes across very well in both variants) you think: "Sure, that actually goes together quite naturally For me, this is the ideal case of a fragrance that breaks new ground: combining the unusual in a natural way! The allure of the avant-garde or not: how wonderful it can be when a fragrance is exciting and yet engaging. The appeal of harmony or not: How beautiful can it be when a fragrance offers friction surfaces and you have the feeling of wearing something really new
Memory Motel is not a big deal. I'll give you that. But it is a successful attempt to connect new paths with old coordinates and ultimately lead to a familiar place: Memory Motel.
Montauk is a small town on the eastern tip of Long Island in the USA and is known through the story of the same name by Max Frisch. With a little luck, the village will become even more famous through the fragrance series "Une Nuit à Montauk" by the manufacturer "Une Nuit Nomade". But there is probably the wish of the father of the thought.
Until now, the fragrances of Une Nuit Nomade have received little attention here on Parfumo and have rarely been appreciated in detail. The entire Montauk series still presents itself without comment, and the other fragrances of the brand are not exactly crowded by elites either.
I personally like almost all fragrances and I am now taking the opportunity to do some advertising for testing this exciting brand. All of them are easily available via the homepage; above all, there are test material (two sets) at acceptable prices, which should be consulted urgently before making a blind purchase. The fragrances are idiosyncratic, yet completely uncomplicated to wear, so they do not belong to any kind of avant-garde. This is about wearability on the one hand, but also about distinctiveness on the other hand.
All three fragrances feature two common scent components (Rose America: rose and carnation / Memory Motel: patchouli and carnation / Bohemian Soul, the latest fragrance: frankincense and wood), but they also set new accents by initially not taking the combination for granted (e.g. rose and carnation in a striking form: rather rare) and by adding notes that are rather surprising in this context.
Memory Motel (a melancholic name that immediately brings to mind the Gurney's Inn hotel from Max Frisch's tale Montauk) is as engaging (patchouli) as it is bulky (sweet tobacco): The fresh bergamot prelude contrasts beautifully with the patchouli and the clove and a sweet tobacco note are easily perceived. So the fragrance doesn't come across as smooth, but it's not complicated to wear either, because after a while on the skin or on textile (the fragrance comes across very well in both variants) you think: "Sure, that actually goes together quite naturally For me, this is the ideal case of a fragrance that breaks new ground: combining the unusual in a natural way! The allure of the avant-garde or not: how wonderful it can be when a fragrance is exciting and yet engaging. The appeal of harmony or not: How beautiful can it be when a fragrance offers friction surfaces and you have the feeling of wearing something really new
Memory Motel is not a big deal. I'll give you that. But it is a successful attempt to connect new paths with old coordinates and ultimately lead to a familiar place: Memory Motel.
18 Comments
