Zourak
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Zourak
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An orange tree in a bottle
The brand that introduced me to the world of niche perfumes was actually not Xerjoff, but Penhaligon's. A good friend, who is becoming a recurring theme in my reviews, had ordered a sample set, which we tried out together.
Then there was a long break until I was able to welcome Halfeti as a gift from London. I visit local perfumeries more or less regularly with friends to have a look around. One day I picked up "Portraits - The Impudent Cousin Matthew | Penhaligon's", which I found quite nice. However, I didn't want to buy another Penhaligon's fragrance straight away, so I looked for a fragrance with a petitgrain note on Parfumo and ended up here, at Kobe.
I opted for a bottling, and in a small circle of fine noses, however, it was largely rated negatively. What exactly bothered me, especially my partner, could not be precisely defined. So I had to test and wear Kobe on my own.
About the fragrance itself: For me, Kobe embodies an orange tree in its entirety. It starts with the fruit - ripe, juicy oranges. However, these only make up part of the tree. They are joined by the scent of the blossoms before the fruit and the petitgrain of the unripe fruit. But the wood and the trunk of the tree also contribute: For me, the eagle and rosewood (both not listed here) in combination with the benzoin and styrax resin (also not listed here) create a deep base for the fragrance. The interplay of the freshness of the fruits, the bitter petitgrain and the depth of the woods and their juices creates a completely new image - the image of an orange tree in its entirety.
Some might say this is an old-school fragrance, and if so, I like this old school. For me, it's a serious fragrance for spring and summer, which unfortunately I can only wear on occasions when I'm without my partner.
Then there was a long break until I was able to welcome Halfeti as a gift from London. I visit local perfumeries more or less regularly with friends to have a look around. One day I picked up "Portraits - The Impudent Cousin Matthew | Penhaligon's", which I found quite nice. However, I didn't want to buy another Penhaligon's fragrance straight away, so I looked for a fragrance with a petitgrain note on Parfumo and ended up here, at Kobe.
I opted for a bottling, and in a small circle of fine noses, however, it was largely rated negatively. What exactly bothered me, especially my partner, could not be precisely defined. So I had to test and wear Kobe on my own.
About the fragrance itself: For me, Kobe embodies an orange tree in its entirety. It starts with the fruit - ripe, juicy oranges. However, these only make up part of the tree. They are joined by the scent of the blossoms before the fruit and the petitgrain of the unripe fruit. But the wood and the trunk of the tree also contribute: For me, the eagle and rosewood (both not listed here) in combination with the benzoin and styrax resin (also not listed here) create a deep base for the fragrance. The interplay of the freshness of the fruits, the bitter petitgrain and the depth of the woods and their juices creates a completely new image - the image of an orange tree in its entirety.
Some might say this is an old-school fragrance, and if so, I like this old school. For me, it's a serious fragrance for spring and summer, which unfortunately I can only wear on occasions when I'm without my partner.
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Funky, smokey fruit
I don't even remember how I came across it, but I think I came across it through a recent statement that was shown to me on the home page.
I was initially interested by the two very contrasting reviews that were available at the time. One loved it, the other hated it. Then I wanted to form my own opinion and ordered a sample. I spontaneously told a perfume-loving colleague who said to me: "I think I have this at home. My mother got it as a goodie." So I quickly drove to him. Together, we tested it on paper first. As is the case with oud with animalic notes: pure cow dung. It didn't give either of us anything positive, but I still took a spray on my hand and continued my evening. I kept smelling my wrist, and it was during this phase that my statement was born. When I presented it to my mother, she said: "Ashtray".
A few days later, my own bottling arrived and I continued testing. Spoiler first, I gave myself a bottle for Christmas.
About the fragrance itself: it starts, as I would like to quote an American Youtuber, funky. Yes, that's definitely true. You can smell a certain animalic quality that definitely goes in the direction of cowshed/cheese. However, this is quickly joined by a delicious tangerine-currant syrup. Not fresh, tangy fruit, but a boiled-down syrup that is really powerful and delicious. Over time, however, this syrup melds with the smoky incense and oud, some leather and amber. I can hardly smell any notes individually, either I am too inexperienced or the composition is too perfectly blended. I think both are true, but the syrup stays with me for almost the entire fragrance. As the day draws to a close, amber becomes more present for me, spiced by patchouli and the woods, it radiates a pleasant warmth for the last of the well over 10 hours of lasting power. If you are traveling at the weekend, take King Blue with you on Friday and you will still be accompanied by it on the drive home on Sunday.
For me, this is an absolutely wearable work of art. From the name, King Blue, which plays with the classic expectation of a "blue fragrance" à la Bleu de Chanel or similar, to the inspiration of the perfume, the painting "The Art Of Living", which for me really fits like a glove, to the really perfectly balanced, wearable fragrance for someone who wants to stand out from the crowd.
If you dare and you like the fragrance notes, I can only advise you to test it, King Blue will definitely take you on a journey.
In fact, I know first-hand that video footage of the creation was filmed with the perfumers, but this has not yet appeared online.
Finally, a few comments: I don't believe in the hundreds of "compliments" that many influencers promise. My Arab colleague at work commented when I wore the King Blue to the garage on a Friday: "Can I ask what you're wearing? It smells like that, Arabic?" A friend who I introduced to the niche world and who likes to test bottlings with me said: "I smell olive, phew, that's kind of harsh."
I was initially interested by the two very contrasting reviews that were available at the time. One loved it, the other hated it. Then I wanted to form my own opinion and ordered a sample. I spontaneously told a perfume-loving colleague who said to me: "I think I have this at home. My mother got it as a goodie." So I quickly drove to him. Together, we tested it on paper first. As is the case with oud with animalic notes: pure cow dung. It didn't give either of us anything positive, but I still took a spray on my hand and continued my evening. I kept smelling my wrist, and it was during this phase that my statement was born. When I presented it to my mother, she said: "Ashtray".
A few days later, my own bottling arrived and I continued testing. Spoiler first, I gave myself a bottle for Christmas.
About the fragrance itself: it starts, as I would like to quote an American Youtuber, funky. Yes, that's definitely true. You can smell a certain animalic quality that definitely goes in the direction of cowshed/cheese. However, this is quickly joined by a delicious tangerine-currant syrup. Not fresh, tangy fruit, but a boiled-down syrup that is really powerful and delicious. Over time, however, this syrup melds with the smoky incense and oud, some leather and amber. I can hardly smell any notes individually, either I am too inexperienced or the composition is too perfectly blended. I think both are true, but the syrup stays with me for almost the entire fragrance. As the day draws to a close, amber becomes more present for me, spiced by patchouli and the woods, it radiates a pleasant warmth for the last of the well over 10 hours of lasting power. If you are traveling at the weekend, take King Blue with you on Friday and you will still be accompanied by it on the drive home on Sunday.
For me, this is an absolutely wearable work of art. From the name, King Blue, which plays with the classic expectation of a "blue fragrance" à la Bleu de Chanel or similar, to the inspiration of the perfume, the painting "The Art Of Living", which for me really fits like a glove, to the really perfectly balanced, wearable fragrance for someone who wants to stand out from the crowd.
If you dare and you like the fragrance notes, I can only advise you to test it, King Blue will definitely take you on a journey.
In fact, I know first-hand that video footage of the creation was filmed with the perfumers, but this has not yet appeared online.
Finally, a few comments: I don't believe in the hundreds of "compliments" that many influencers promise. My Arab colleague at work commented when I wore the King Blue to the garage on a Friday: "Can I ask what you're wearing? It smells like that, Arabic?" A friend who I introduced to the niche world and who likes to test bottlings with me said: "I smell olive, phew, that's kind of harsh."
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