chemicals and when the smells of the day disappear to leave space to new experiments of shadows.” Voilà.3) The snobbery of scarcity. Again, nothing new. Fashion has worked this angle for centuries. l’Eau d’E, the first of three perfumes listed on the site is a "First Edition: Sold Out.” The precious-gold fragrance mask is a limited edition of 6, served...

the sweetness is accented by a touch of spun sugar that lifts both the berry and rose notes about half an octave higher than their normal ranges.The transition from the top notes to the heart notes captures the overall tenor of the perfume. The sweetness of the topnotes attenuates and the topnotes fold in on themselves and coalesce into a papery,...

don't have an answer for how we use them to communicate, but I do have a working model for myself. I employ them when they're effective, I disregard them when they're not, and I look closely to see why they don’t work. Then I try to learn from what I find. I suppose my approach is simply not to hold too tightly to...

hours, smelling Sova is like hiking to a destination along one path and returning via another. Different perspectives give different information and over the course of time conclusions change as new information is revealed.Sova is distinctive and isn't likely be confused with another perfume. I'm told that this is due to the sweet clover which is the primary note of the fragrance. Still, enhanced...

the original, the juice is a cheap, cynical reformulation. Cheap, since the budget for making it cannot have been generous. Cynical, as it rides on the longstanding reputation of both the vintage perfume and the perfumer, but doesn’t offer either quality or creativity in the reformulation.What's good for the goose... Aramis by Aramis, 1966.Aramis is one reason among many that I love...

to them. Perfumers rely on aromachemicals for their specificity. Using botanicals is akin to using bases and aligning them properly isn't easy.I suspect Kern's perfume's success is due in large part to her understanding of perfumery, aromatherapy and the differences between the two. Kern makes bold choices with her terroir botanical and the result is miles from the stereotype of vague,...

meaning for us with what others might find. The same can be said of any work of art, but since there is so little shared language of scent, the situation is exaggerated. Notes might give the appearance of common ground for discussion but they miss the larger point. We rely on sight and sound to hold language. Perfumes convey complex and subtle information but they cannot express specific, unambiguous and repeatable...

by l’Artisan Parfumeur, Annick Goutal, Diptyque and Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier. Mix auteur theory with artisinal sensibility, stir, pour. The perfumers of this era looked both forward and back. Goutal’s perfumes were nostalgic, referring to an arcadian past that was pure and good. MPeG played on an appeal to the good-old-bad-old (largely fictionalized) de Medici days. Diptyque surpassed...

that Dior was going to use. I was wrong. This time the shameless ridicule blew every fuse I had still unblown.Here is how Dior explains the reasons of launching Eau Sauvage Cologne in its press release:"…Born as a symbol of renewal, Eau Sauvage appears in 1966, sweeping away everything old. This unexpected, unprecedented fragrance embodies the image of the restless youth—bright, bustling, finding...

the chances of delving deeper into their secrets and understanding them in the end, were nothing near as negligible as they are nowadays. And these special and long time relationships have established a deep, unconditional love towards all these scents that shaped my youth, and, unfortunately, a cold indifference about 90% of recent launchings. In most cases I forget them overnight. I wish that...

They all want to be extremely famous and make shedloads of money. Especially younger people, who found this web of trivialities already woven when they were born. Bruce Dickinson in "Tattooed Millionaire" has described perfectly what I'm talking about. "Bodyguards, porn stars, gold credit cards. Using each other. Running for cover." And to think that this song was written in 1990...Since...

just ordered a bottle of L'Or du Verger Homme by Maison de la Mirabelle. I am curious of how JC Astier has coped with the topic mirabelle plum in a gents' cologne! So far, we have identified quite a few of those special 'Micallefs'. Often, their availability is limited. Once they are sold off, one cannot take it for granted that the customer orders another batch. Also, some of them are not on sale online....