Grapefruit
Orange blossom
Suede
Tuberose
Turmeric
Vetiver
SaschaM
5 Reviews
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SaschaM
Helpful Review
2
Completely different from 1980
### Intro (can also be skipped):
Most people probably know Balmain (pronunciation: Ball-ma) from one of the most successful H&M designer collaborations or because they are interested in French haute couture and luxury prêt-à-porter fashion. Since Olivier Rousteing has been leading all design decisions, quite a bit has changed in the traditional house over the last thirteen years. Everything is younger, fresher, more extravagant. Only the price remains the same. If you're interested, feel free to browse the online shop https://de.balmain.com/ (but beware, gasping for breath is guaranteed not just because of the beautiful fashion).
Right after the news that Balmain wants to revive and release some classics and new fragrances, I immediately ordered the Discovery Set from the EU site https://www.balmainbeauty.eu/. The package arrived just one day later via UPS. Shipping was very quick. As with some high-end brands, the true sender is not listed on the address field, but only a service provider, probably to prevent theft. Upon opening the package, I found elegant matte black tissue paper with golden PB (Pierre Balmain; founder of the brand) stickers in typical Balmain style.
Inside, there was the Discovery Box and two extra 1.5ml samples Sel d'Ambre and "Carbone (2024) | Balmain," both of which are also included in the set. More is more.
The set is wrapped in glossy black textured paper with a golden Balmain logo. It also looks quite luxurious. Inside, the eight 1.5ml samples are neatly arranged in black foam.
The samples come without caps, but I haven't seen any 1.5ml samples that have caps. Now let's get to the main point:
### Fragrance:
The original Ivoire de Balmain (1980) Parfum from 1980 is completely different in terms of ingredients and reads more like a fragrance from Roja Dove. One can certainly say, even without ever having smelled the original Ivoire, that this reinterpretation has nothing in common with the original version. But it doesn't matter. New millennium, new fragrance.
In the opening, unexpectedly intense, bitter grapefruit paired with very floral leather and a hint of yellow spice that can really be attributed to turmeric root. The vetiver brings an earthy freshness that is then supported by a brightly shining tuberose. The fragrance doesn't convey to me whether it is sweet or dry. Over time, the scent becomes increasingly herbaceous. Throughout all this, the leather remains very present. Almost a bit too much. I keep thinking of "Purple Suede | Goldfield & Banks," which also uses synthetic materials like Woodleather®. Nevertheless, I like it!
The longevity is quite stable, similar to the other fragrances in this line. However, the turmeric becomes more pronounced over time. Nice!
### Longevity / Sillage
The fragrance projects quite strongly in the first hour and then decreases linearly over the next 6 hours.
### Price Performance
The Ivoire has a bit more dynamism than "Rouge | Balmain," "Bleu Infini | Balmain," and "Vent Vert (2024) | Balmain." The impression of a synthetic formulation, however, clouds the price-performance ratio for me. Of the requested 250,-€/100ml, this fragrance should either be reduced by 100€ or have +50ml more content. The "Purple Suede | Goldfield & Banks," which offered me a similar scent with longer longevity, costs about 175€/100ml. Well.
### Conclusion
I like the fragrance. I also found the twist with the turmeric quite exciting. All notes present themselves equally and demand attention. For me, it is clearly an autumn and winter fragrance. I just wonder what connection it has to the original Ivoire, which was packed with aldehydes and over 25 fragrance notes? Well...
I wouldn't buy a whole bottle, but it's definitely worth a sample. Give it a try.
A few other fragrances from the line also stand out. It's worth testing these as well. However, as it slowly crystallizes for me, all the fragrances in the series carry a dominant synthetic quality that one can either like or dislike. It probably depends on the nose of each individual perfumista to evaluate that.
Thank you for reading! If you have questions, don't hesitate to ask me :D
Most people probably know Balmain (pronunciation: Ball-ma) from one of the most successful H&M designer collaborations or because they are interested in French haute couture and luxury prêt-à-porter fashion. Since Olivier Rousteing has been leading all design decisions, quite a bit has changed in the traditional house over the last thirteen years. Everything is younger, fresher, more extravagant. Only the price remains the same. If you're interested, feel free to browse the online shop https://de.balmain.com/ (but beware, gasping for breath is guaranteed not just because of the beautiful fashion).
Right after the news that Balmain wants to revive and release some classics and new fragrances, I immediately ordered the Discovery Set from the EU site https://www.balmainbeauty.eu/. The package arrived just one day later via UPS. Shipping was very quick. As with some high-end brands, the true sender is not listed on the address field, but only a service provider, probably to prevent theft. Upon opening the package, I found elegant matte black tissue paper with golden PB (Pierre Balmain; founder of the brand) stickers in typical Balmain style.
Inside, there was the Discovery Box and two extra 1.5ml samples Sel d'Ambre and "Carbone (2024) | Balmain," both of which are also included in the set. More is more.
The set is wrapped in glossy black textured paper with a golden Balmain logo. It also looks quite luxurious. Inside, the eight 1.5ml samples are neatly arranged in black foam.
The samples come without caps, but I haven't seen any 1.5ml samples that have caps. Now let's get to the main point:
### Fragrance:
The original Ivoire de Balmain (1980) Parfum from 1980 is completely different in terms of ingredients and reads more like a fragrance from Roja Dove. One can certainly say, even without ever having smelled the original Ivoire, that this reinterpretation has nothing in common with the original version. But it doesn't matter. New millennium, new fragrance.
In the opening, unexpectedly intense, bitter grapefruit paired with very floral leather and a hint of yellow spice that can really be attributed to turmeric root. The vetiver brings an earthy freshness that is then supported by a brightly shining tuberose. The fragrance doesn't convey to me whether it is sweet or dry. Over time, the scent becomes increasingly herbaceous. Throughout all this, the leather remains very present. Almost a bit too much. I keep thinking of "Purple Suede | Goldfield & Banks," which also uses synthetic materials like Woodleather®. Nevertheless, I like it!
The longevity is quite stable, similar to the other fragrances in this line. However, the turmeric becomes more pronounced over time. Nice!
### Longevity / Sillage
The fragrance projects quite strongly in the first hour and then decreases linearly over the next 6 hours.
### Price Performance
The Ivoire has a bit more dynamism than "Rouge | Balmain," "Bleu Infini | Balmain," and "Vent Vert (2024) | Balmain." The impression of a synthetic formulation, however, clouds the price-performance ratio for me. Of the requested 250,-€/100ml, this fragrance should either be reduced by 100€ or have +50ml more content. The "Purple Suede | Goldfield & Banks," which offered me a similar scent with longer longevity, costs about 175€/100ml. Well.
### Conclusion
I like the fragrance. I also found the twist with the turmeric quite exciting. All notes present themselves equally and demand attention. For me, it is clearly an autumn and winter fragrance. I just wonder what connection it has to the original Ivoire, which was packed with aldehydes and over 25 fragrance notes? Well...
I wouldn't buy a whole bottle, but it's definitely worth a sample. Give it a try.
A few other fragrances from the line also stand out. It's worth testing these as well. However, as it slowly crystallizes for me, all the fragrances in the series carry a dominant synthetic quality that one can either like or dislike. It probably depends on the nose of each individual perfumista to evaluate that.
Thank you for reading! If you have questions, don't hesitate to ask me :D
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