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Eau de Quinine 1890

8.1 / 10 24 Ratings
A popular perfume by Crown Perfumery for men, released in 1890. The scent is spicy-green. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Spicy
Green
Citrus
Fresh
Powdery

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
BergamotBergamot CorianderCoriander HerbsHerbs
Heart Notes Heart Notes
PetitgrainPetitgrain SpicesSpices NutmegNutmeg
Base Notes Base Notes
Powdery notesPowdery notes
Ratings
Scent
8.124 Ratings
Longevity
6.919 Ratings
Sillage
6.317 Ratings
Bottle
7.922 Ratings
Submitted by Kankuro · last update on 06/27/2024.
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Reviews

3 in-depth fragrance descriptions
Meggi

1018 Reviews
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Meggi
Meggi
Top Review 21  
Calpurnia's Grandfather
What "Quinine" is all about, I would not have known without the explanations from my esteemed predecessor and donor of the sample (thank you very much!) Taurus1967. Quinine - aha. It fits not only surprisingly well but strikingly perfectly.

I don't know how pure quinine smells, but Eau de Quinine really smells completely like Bitter Lemon for a minute or two. That fades away soon, but it is nonetheless a lot of fun. I feel like I'm in an olfactory lesson on the construction of the aforementioned refreshing drink made from the three mentioned ingredients. First: fuzzy-astringent bergamot. Second: coriander - as an herb. A great spice that I once worked with while making curry paste. This one needs to go soon; it has been sitting for a while, albeit for a good reason, as it is now more bitter, spicier, and not quite as ethereal as fresh. Third: petitgrain as a bittersweet base.

The expression "fades away" regarding the progression refers only to the sparkling Bitter Lemon impression in the narrower sense and does not imply any loss in the pleasure of the scent. There is no talk of that; the next originality bite is just around the corner. A green note makes itself known in the background. Coriander, yes, fresh and green - we've already had that. My new note is additionally rather dark-nutty. Even more bitter. Parsley would be an idea. Indeed, parsley.

A supposed woodruff/coumarin twist quickly turns out to be caused by the petitgrain. It's amazing how light it comes across for a long time. Exceptionally charming. Nutmeg is fine, as long as you know it; other bitter-aromatic spice notes are also conceivable. All together, surprisingly, it results in a beautifully clean, yet not at all soapy impression that lasts for several hours. This parsley note is completely quirky. I can't figure out what else it could be. I find it fantastic and wonderfully meaningful in context.

A hint of Bitter Lemon remains conceivable throughout the day, probably because the corresponding initial stimulus was set so skillfully. Perhaps the drink has become a bit stale - which should not be a qualitative statement.

With anticipatory sighs, I had expected the threatened "powdery notes" of the base, as that is not at all my taste. The worries were exaggerated. The last part is not too powdery. The sparkling aspect of the petitgrain recedes, and the scent gradually becomes noticeably rougher (patchouli, moss) and a tad soapier starting from the third hour. Nevertheless, its fresh and, with - albeit significantly increasing - concessions, still fruity character remains for six to seven hours and carries me quite well through the workday.

And what does Calpurnia's grandfather have to do with this? The associations described in the opening comment (which I certainly do not share in terms of grumpiness) reminded me of a passage from "Calpurnia's (R)evolutionary Discoveries." A book from my daughter's collection. It is about a nearly twelve-year-old girl in 1899 who, instead of willingly or resignedly following the prescribed path of 'playing the piano - being neat - getting married - starting a family,' prefers to engage with natural science and finds an ally in her science-enthusiast grandfather.

He naturally has exemplary manners, very much a gentleman of the old school, but that doesn't stop him from bringing the conversation to offbeat topics at evening gatherings and, for example, describing the mating behavior of opiliones - the harvestmen - to a group of ladies.

Eau de Quinine also has excellent manners but knows how to demand in close combat.

Conclusion: A gem. Classically gentlemanly and gently original-quirky at the same time. It's a shame that it has been discontinued.
13 Comments
Taurus

1185 Reviews
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Taurus
Taurus
Top Review 13  
Chininwasser
... would be the adequate translation of Eau de Quinine into German, but it definitely wouldn't sound as good and mysterious. This fragrance certainly doesn't make it easy. The top note comes across, as my predecessor has already described, rather bitter and sour. The parallels to quinine-containing gin and tonic are undeniable. However, gin and tonic has never really been my thing - I can quickly think of 100 beverages I'd rather drink.

But there are significant differences between drinking and smelling. And fortunately, the confusing yet fitting opening, which I would definitely attribute to the addition of lavender, is quickly replaced by herbal and soapy notes thanks to coriander, making Eau de Quinine appear a bit smoother. The scent constantly fluctuates between sour citrus, bitter herbal, and dry spicy. The long-lasting final phase becomes even more interesting when the powdery notes take over, infusing the whole with more sophistication. This evokes a mood reminiscent of a forest lake, an abandoned castle, and a creaky library.

Certainly, Eau de Quinine belongs to the almost peculiar fragrances that you don't encounter on every corner. No, one can't really call it an ordinary crowd-pleaser. But it is excellently crafted ... above all, it is considered a fine spring fragrance that can offer a refreshing note on warm days. It most reminds me of “Mouchoir de Monsieur” by Guerlain, which, not coincidentally, was released just 14 years later - at a time when men's fragrances were still something truly special. And Eau de Quinine can still be seen as something special today.

It's a pity I don't have a UV lamp at home; otherwise, I could check if the scent also fluoresces, as is typical for quinine-containing liquids. That would be something ...
7 Comments
10Scent
Bertel

236 Reviews
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Bertel
Bertel
8  
Bad mood on the outside, but mischief in the neck
The opening of "Eau de Quinine" by Crown Perfumery is for me the epitome, the personification of a bad mood :) That bergamot can smell so dull and grumpy, coriander can bring you down so much, and herbs can come across as endlessly dull is truly remarkable. Fortunately, improvement is soon in sight, thanks to petitgrain, which quickly brightens the citrusy mood of the bergamot, but not in a friendly-fresh way, rather in a biting, herbaceous, and almost malicious dark orange, very interesting time and again :-)

The spices provide a peppery zest, nothing bright-silvery but rather a dark, slightly sharp, somewhat biting, and later herbal-dull, definitely bitter brew that doesn't want to play! The transition from gin and tonic to medicinal herbal brew is so bizarre that calling it old-fashioned would be a grotesque understatement - and only after hours does this grim humor dissolve into a truly astonishing powdery note that I find so absurd as a punchline that I want to burst out laughing every time. Brilliant, very distinctive, and simply fantastic in its eccentricity!

Even though I sometimes have the impression that the birth year of the ideal wearer of this fragrance must at least be from the time of its creation, it definitely has to be one of those grim, taciturn old-timers that are rarely found today in the age of chatter - for me, it is a wonderful, serious, almost robust-unfriendly scent that certainly won't prompt the question "hmmm, what smells so good here?" but rather will ensure that one is left in peace with the appropriate expression and can then grin mischievously to oneself - a fragrant character that I really like! :-)
4 Comments

Statements

7 short views on the fragrance
46
50
Chinin is said to work against malaria.
This Eau is for nagging-aria.
Exquisite care of powdery herbs and hesperides.
Lavender in disguise. *
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50 Comments
42
42
A whisper of powder
Earth trembles cool and herbaceous
Petitgrain sparkles
Over branching woods
Transparent spice
Wraps around
Moss-covered orange trees
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42 Comments
40
36
Petitgrain with green leaves & bitter orange aroma
It's classically herb-spiced
Powdery notes soften the bitterness
& elegantly round it off
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36 Comments
2 years ago
12
11
The rather herbal and somewhat bitter-citrusy opening gives it character, then gradually becomes mild, too powdery for me. Still beautiful.
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11 Comments
8
4
Great herbal classic with a pleasant aldehydic hairspray note and many spicy yet fresh accents. Helps against malaria!
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4 Comments
9 years ago
6
3
Eau de Q. is one of the most beautiful British gentleman fragrances and creates a masculine powdery-spicy base that I instantly fell for.
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3 Comments
5
3
Aldehyde-enhanced coumarin powder (lavender + X?) with a bitter-green citrus garnish.
A British wink.
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3 Comments
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