
DasguteLeben
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DasguteLeben
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6
The Perfect Gentleman
I have written more about the history of Crown Perfumery elsewhere. In 1925, when Sumare was released, the American founder William Thomson, a newcomer from the corset business, had long since passed away. The company had been sold by his children in 1921 to a soap manufacturer belonging to Lever Brothers (later Unilever), which continued to sell and even develop Crown perfumes for several more years. I have not found any indications of the historical Sumare so far. The version from the 90s probably does not correspond exactly to the original - it reminds me a bit too much of the style of the 60s, specifically Aramis.
Michael Edwards classifies Sumare as "rich citrus" - I consider it more of a Chypre, but the opening is undoubtedly a classic aromatic citrus accord. The grapefruit-wormwood axis dominates over bergamot and lemon and green notes. The lavender in the heart is consequently also herbaceous and bitter, with the geranium note providing only a floral rounding. Leather oak moss dominates the base, surrounded by woody notes (probably some patchouli and cedar) and spices (traces of clove and balsamic resins). Sumare is a perfectly crafted fragrance: concise yet discreet, with just enough spicy sweetness to prevent it from becoming too dark (like the uncompromising Eucris by Trumper); a small touch of sunny spirit in an entirely serious, prime-minister-worthy composition of Churchill class. Splendid!
Michael Edwards classifies Sumare as "rich citrus" - I consider it more of a Chypre, but the opening is undoubtedly a classic aromatic citrus accord. The grapefruit-wormwood axis dominates over bergamot and lemon and green notes. The lavender in the heart is consequently also herbaceous and bitter, with the geranium note providing only a floral rounding. Leather oak moss dominates the base, surrounded by woody notes (probably some patchouli and cedar) and spices (traces of clove and balsamic resins). Sumare is a perfectly crafted fragrance: concise yet discreet, with just enough spicy sweetness to prevent it from becoming too dark (like the uncompromising Eucris by Trumper); a small touch of sunny spirit in an entirely serious, prime-minister-worthy composition of Churchill class. Splendid!
3 Comments



Top Notes
Bergamot
Grapefruit
Lemon
Mugwort
Heart Notes
Geranium
Lavender
Base Notes
Leather
Moss
Musk
Woods
Chizza
Eggi37
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