StellaDiverF
Helpful Review
5
Plum Liqueur & Dirty Patchouli
My review is based on Extrait and EDP in 2/3 purple top - 1/3 silver bottom - red interior box with Place Vendôme address, which I assume is the original version.
The EDP opens with a blast of plum and mirabelle. They are intensely syrupy and saturated with sugar, which occasionally remind me of the jammy mirabelle note in Givenchy Dahlia Divin. But when amber and earthy patchouli soon burst into the scene, these stone fruits become much more boozy and medicinal, as if someone poured a bottle of plum liqueur on a floor covered with mold and dirt. The combination of boozy plum and bitter, dirt-like patchouli is indeed reminiscent of Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Chéri, par Camille, but Mauboussin EDP is less dry and austere, and is instead more enveloping thanks to the caramel warmth of benzoin.
I have a low tolerance of boozy plum amber, so the initial phase of Mauboussin EDP is quite difficult for me. But once the booziness and the almost sticky syrupy texture calm down after about 3 hours, the fragrance achieves a wonderful balance between dry woody and opulent oriental, with the medicinal and slightly ozonic patchouli being the central force to keep the sweetness of plum and amber in check.
I can see the reference to Mugler Angel because of its earthy and almost sharp patchouli undercutting the rich sweetness, Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon because of both being unapologetically boozy, Kenzo Jungle L'Elephant because of the strong plum note. But Mauboussin is still quite different in smell, because Angel has a much sharper contrast between fierce patchouli and gourmand chocolate while Mauboussin tends to unite them in harmony right from the beginning, Cartier is more almond-y while Mauboussin is dominated by plum liqueur, and Kenzo is much drier and spicier while Mauboussin seems mellower and more resinous in character.
The Extrait has an overall similar olfactory profile with EDP on my skin, but the evolution from boozy plum to the amber patchouli woody oriental dry down takes almost 6 hours instead of 3 hours, and the plum feels more ripe, more luscious and even more boozy, with a more noticeable unctuous caramel undercurrent.
The sillage of both concentration are heavy to moderate, with EDP lasting for at least 14 hours and Extrait up to 18 hours on my skin.
Despite its glowing reviews, I would incline to consider Mauboussin as a quite polarising fragrance and would suggest against blind buying: its concentrated plum liqueur opening can be cloying and its medicinal, bitter patchouli can be interpreted as brash. However, if you enjoy these two aspects and are looking for a rich woody oriental adorned with lavish stone fruits, Mauboussin is definitely worth a try.
Top Notes 
Plum
Bergamot
Mandarin orange
Heart Notes 
Jasmine
Rose
Ylang-ylang
Peach
Base Notes 
Benzoin
Patchouli
Vanilla
Ambergris
Cedar
Sandalwood
Dne
Peasant
Malibo
