“Invention, it must be humbly admitted, does not consist in creating out of void, but out of chaos; the materials must, in the first place, be afforded: it can give form to dark, shapeless substances, but cannot bring into being the substance itself.”
Walking in the footsteps of Victor Frankenstein, Giuseppe went out of his household on a gloomy afternoon and into the backyard to gather some flowers, woods, and patchouli leaves. In his lab, he had some aromatic herbs and spices on hand, as well as some dried tobacco, which he proceeded to mince with a pestle in his mortar. He then dissects the Tuberose, which he decides to make the queen of his creative process, and only keeps parts of her: the camphoraceous, the green, and the milky ones. Doing the same with the Narcissus flower and the Patchouli leaves, he begins putting together a collage, a tuberose-narcissus-patchouli hybrid that he plans to infuse with life. He carefully places it underneath a glass dome, but not before he disperses the aromatic blend he’d been grinding inside. The process now requires him to burn some wood, for which he chooses guaiac wood, birch wood, and vetiver roots, and infuses the inside of his glassware setting with this smoke. Outside, dark clouds gather over the sky, and it looks like the storm is soon bound to hit thunderously...She’s alive!
By now, I have made it clear how tuberose and I don’t get along. And despite our differences, I am open to being surprised and entertained. Like vetiver, very few compositions managed to excite me. This year, I have discovered two, both highly complex and unconventional. Odor 93 is one of them. I start to see in Giuseppe Imprezzabile a sort of Tim Burton of the perfumery world. And I seem to linger over his gloomy/melancholic/dark olfactory works. Odor 93 is one such composition; a highly unconventional Tuberose-Narcissus two-headed monster with the body of a Patchouli and wooden limbs, reeking of cumin and breathing tobacco smoke. It is a narcotic white floral perfume where the green, camphoraceous, and milky facets of tuberose pair with the pollenesque, leathery, and hay-like aspects of the narcissus, complemented further by tobacco, and lifted by the narcotic smokiness of guaiac wood and birch. It is a perfume that has a narcotic sensation and a blurry, hazy perception. The way the smokiness and the florals play together makes me think of a similar effect that I find with Pryn’s Morah. The other half of this fragrance is dank, green, vegetal, and earthy, mostly built on patchouli, which anchors the florals, preventing their total evaporation. It is a composition of binary forces, some that want to lift it while others want to pull it under, creating a constant tension in the middle that seems to break it apart. It is a “monstrosity” of a tuberose, highly unconventional, complex, and original, one that pleases the nonbeliever in me, and keeps the brain curious and guessing.
If you want the plain, short version, mix Tubereuse Criminelle, Tubereuse 3 Animale, and Narcotico, light it up with that elegiac Fusciuni touch, and Voila!
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