Eventually Fuzzy Peach--after a somewhat labyrinthine journey...
What a complex creation! Mona di Orio ROSE ETOILE DE HOLLANDE from the collection Les Nombres d'Or is probably misnamed, but nonetheless praiseworthy.
The perfume opens wafting a bit of aldehydes and waxy rose and so immediately evokes memories of Guerlain CHAMADE. Shortly thereafter, however, the composition commences on a rather labyrinthine journey through leather, amber, balsam, and a variety of other blended notes which pretty much shroud the rose in darkness. Upon emerging from the dark mid-stage of this perfume, I find the drydown to offer for the most part a very pleasant-smelling fuzzy peach--not the juicy inside flesh, but the outer skin. It's a dark fruity-chypre peach, similar to the one in Guerlain MITSOUKO, against all expectations.
No one can say that ROSE ETOILE DE HOLLANDE is boring--at least not if they pay close attention to its wildly unpredictable development trajectory--but I'm sure that, because of the name, lots of people have been disappointed by the only minor role played by rose. I recommend this perfume to anyone who likes the original MITSOUKO. Although the peach note is probably closer to that of Annick Goutal PETITE CHERIE, all of the dark back-up notes conspire to create to my nose a pleasing fruity-chypre effect.
This is an excellent perfume, and having tested a few members of Les Nombres d'Or (though this is my first review of any of them), I definitely see why so many people love Mona di Orio. I had never tried any of her perfumes when I read the cruel and excoriating dismissal of this woman's entire oeuvre in The Holey[sic] Book. Once again, Turin was wrong, in addition to being incredibly rude.
May Mona di Orio rest in peace in the knowledge that many people appreciated her efforts and creativity very much.