02/03/2014
stephaniek
44 Reviews
stephaniek
Heliotrope
I am a rose addict, and I smell no rose! I smell no peach! No sweets, just heliotrope! Not a rose fragrance akin to Creed Fleurs de The Rose Bulgari nor Montale Deep Roses.
Les Nombres d'Or - Rose Etoile de Hollande Maison Mona di Orio 2012
Bottle Design Rozenn Mainguené
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/ 10
104 Ratings
Les Nombres d'Or - Rose Etoile de Hollande is a popular perfume by Maison Mona di Orio for women and men and was released in 2012. The scent is floral-spicy. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords
Floral
Spicy
Fruity
Powdery
Woody
Fragrance Pyramid
Top Notes 
Heart Notes 
Base Notes 
Perfumer
Ratings
Submitted by Murcielago, last update on 25.04.2023.
Reviews
4 in-depth fragrance descriptions
stephaniek
44 Reviews
stephaniek
03/03/2013
Sherapop
1239 Reviews
Sherapop
2
Eventually Fuzzy Peach--after a somewhat labyrinthine journey...
What a complex creation! Mona di Orio ROSE ETOILE DE HOLLANDE from the collection Les Nombres d'Or is probably misnamed, but nonetheless praiseworthy.
The perfume opens wafting a bit of aldehydes and waxy rose and so immediately evokes memories of Guerlain CHAMADE. Shortly thereafter, however, the composition commences on a rather labyrinthine journey through leather, amber, balsam, and a variety of other blended notes which pretty much shroud the rose in darkness. Upon emerging from the dark mid-stage of this perfume, I find the drydown to offer for the most part a very pleasant-smelling fuzzy peach--not the juicy inside flesh, but the outer skin. It's a dark fruity-chypre peach, similar to the one in Guerlain MITSOUKO, against all expectations.
No one can say that ROSE ETOILE DE HOLLANDE is boring--at least not if they pay close attention to its wildly unpredictable development trajectory--but I'm sure that, because of the name, lots of people have been disappointed by the only minor role played by rose. I recommend this perfume to anyone who likes the original MITSOUKO. Although the peach note is probably closer to that of Annick Goutal PETITE CHERIE, all of the dark back-up notes conspire to create to my nose a pleasing fruity-chypre effect.
This is an excellent perfume, and having tested a few members of Les Nombres d'Or (though this is my first review of any of them), I definitely see why so many people love Mona di Orio. I had never tried any of her perfumes when I read the cruel and excoriating dismissal of this woman's entire oeuvre in The Holey[sic] Book. Once again, Turin was wrong, in addition to being incredibly rude.
May Mona di Orio rest in peace in the knowledge that many people appreciated her efforts and creativity very much.
The perfume opens wafting a bit of aldehydes and waxy rose and so immediately evokes memories of Guerlain CHAMADE. Shortly thereafter, however, the composition commences on a rather labyrinthine journey through leather, amber, balsam, and a variety of other blended notes which pretty much shroud the rose in darkness. Upon emerging from the dark mid-stage of this perfume, I find the drydown to offer for the most part a very pleasant-smelling fuzzy peach--not the juicy inside flesh, but the outer skin. It's a dark fruity-chypre peach, similar to the one in Guerlain MITSOUKO, against all expectations.
No one can say that ROSE ETOILE DE HOLLANDE is boring--at least not if they pay close attention to its wildly unpredictable development trajectory--but I'm sure that, because of the name, lots of people have been disappointed by the only minor role played by rose. I recommend this perfume to anyone who likes the original MITSOUKO. Although the peach note is probably closer to that of Annick Goutal PETITE CHERIE, all of the dark back-up notes conspire to create to my nose a pleasing fruity-chypre effect.
This is an excellent perfume, and having tested a few members of Les Nombres d'Or (though this is my first review of any of them), I definitely see why so many people love Mona di Orio. I had never tried any of her perfumes when I read the cruel and excoriating dismissal of this woman's entire oeuvre in The Holey[sic] Book. Once again, Turin was wrong, in addition to being incredibly rude.
May Mona di Orio rest in peace in the knowledge that many people appreciated her efforts and creativity very much.
1 Reply
02/08/2013
Coutureguru
223 Reviews
Coutureguru
6
To be or not to be ...
I am unfamiliar with the creations of Mona di Orio, so I was gratified to receive a large sample of Rose Etoile de Hollande as a gift with a recent souk purchase. Being a huge fan of Rose, my initial testing of this lovely fragrance leads me to believe that I have been remiss in not investigating this house.
I tend to enjoy my Rose fragrances slightly spicy and definitely 'blousy'. Offerings like Guerlain's Rose Barbare (my all time favorite Rose) and Eau Protection by ELd'O are up there with classics like YSL's Paris, PW's Tea Rose and newly released Declaration d'Un Soir by Cartier. Rose Etoile de Hollande adds one more dimension to the ever changing kaleidoscope of Rose based fragrances I enjoy.
This fragrance, however, presents my nose with more of a classic take on this exalted flower, probably due to the addition of Aldehydes up top, sparkling away as is their wont to do! I generally dislike fruit in fragrances, but the Peach note here is not bothersome ... rather giving this creation a soft fuzziness, like caressing a perfect specimen of the fruit between one's hands. I do find that the spiciness here could have been a little more pronounced, but then Clove can be overwhelming and it has been used in just the right quantity here.
Many of the notes in Rose Etoile de Hollande seem to play a fixative supporting role ... things like Patchouli and Leather here are not leads but simply there to bolster up the very beautiful climbing Rose that has been implemented in this fragrance. Unfortunately, the relatively heavy base notes in this composition become strident too soon imho, trampling a little roughshod over what could have been delightful. My favorite part of this creation is the first hour or so, after which Rose Etoile de Hollande becomes sluggish and altogether too heavy.
I'm not sure how much the late Ms. Di Orio had to do with this fragrance, my research leading me to believe that it was launched after her untimely death as an homage. I have to agree with my fellow parfumisto below, Drseid, that this composition does feel unfinished, however beautiful the first impression of it may be.
In closing, even though this fragrance is marketed as unisex, I very much doubt that the average male would find it appealing.
I tend to enjoy my Rose fragrances slightly spicy and definitely 'blousy'. Offerings like Guerlain's Rose Barbare (my all time favorite Rose) and Eau Protection by ELd'O are up there with classics like YSL's Paris, PW's Tea Rose and newly released Declaration d'Un Soir by Cartier. Rose Etoile de Hollande adds one more dimension to the ever changing kaleidoscope of Rose based fragrances I enjoy.
This fragrance, however, presents my nose with more of a classic take on this exalted flower, probably due to the addition of Aldehydes up top, sparkling away as is their wont to do! I generally dislike fruit in fragrances, but the Peach note here is not bothersome ... rather giving this creation a soft fuzziness, like caressing a perfect specimen of the fruit between one's hands. I do find that the spiciness here could have been a little more pronounced, but then Clove can be overwhelming and it has been used in just the right quantity here.
Many of the notes in Rose Etoile de Hollande seem to play a fixative supporting role ... things like Patchouli and Leather here are not leads but simply there to bolster up the very beautiful climbing Rose that has been implemented in this fragrance. Unfortunately, the relatively heavy base notes in this composition become strident too soon imho, trampling a little roughshod over what could have been delightful. My favorite part of this creation is the first hour or so, after which Rose Etoile de Hollande becomes sluggish and altogether too heavy.
I'm not sure how much the late Ms. Di Orio had to do with this fragrance, my research leading me to believe that it was launched after her untimely death as an homage. I have to agree with my fellow parfumisto below, Drseid, that this composition does feel unfinished, however beautiful the first impression of it may be.
In closing, even though this fragrance is marketed as unisex, I very much doubt that the average male would find it appealing.
12/17/2012
Drseid
819 Reviews
Drseid
Helpful Review
3
An Incomplete Composition That Is "Not Rose" From The Late, Great Mona di Orio...
Rose opens with primarily a peach and aldehyde combination, with just a faint whiff of the rose from the heart notes peeping through. The peach remains into the heart, with the rose growing stronger coupling with a very strong almost cherry and almond smelling floral heliotrope. Rounding out the heart notes of interest is a distinct geranium note that melds with the heliotrope, aldehyde-laced peach and rose notes to create a somewhat odd combination that has a mild medicinal vibe to it. Amber and benzoin from the base add a moderate amount of sweetness to the scent, but nothing too overboard. Projection is above average with superb longevity.
I was so happy to hear that this rose scent was being released well after the untimely death of the great Mona di Orio, but I had to wonder in the back of my mind if this would truly be what Mona would have released if still alive or was Rose an unfinished composition now unleashed on the public after her death with no one left to complete it properly... We will never really know, but I fear it may have been the latter as I just don't get the same vibe with Rose as I do the other scents in the Les Nombres d'Or line. It is very aldehyde and peach heavy, with a lot less rose than you might think or want in a scent with the name Rose Etoile de Hollande. The aldehydes also give the scent a somewhat medicinal chemical vibe that when combined with the peach and heliotrope comes off as something I liken to a light semi-sweet cherry and peach cough syrup with a rose undertone. That result is far from the great heights Mona achieved with most of the Les Nombres d'Or line. I guess I am going to choose to believe this was not a finished product, but in its current state I rate Rose Etoile de Hollande a very disappointingly below average to average 2 to 2.5 stars out of 5. Not recommended and not a good representation of what Mona was capable of, IMO.
I was so happy to hear that this rose scent was being released well after the untimely death of the great Mona di Orio, but I had to wonder in the back of my mind if this would truly be what Mona would have released if still alive or was Rose an unfinished composition now unleashed on the public after her death with no one left to complete it properly... We will never really know, but I fear it may have been the latter as I just don't get the same vibe with Rose as I do the other scents in the Les Nombres d'Or line. It is very aldehyde and peach heavy, with a lot less rose than you might think or want in a scent with the name Rose Etoile de Hollande. The aldehydes also give the scent a somewhat medicinal chemical vibe that when combined with the peach and heliotrope comes off as something I liken to a light semi-sweet cherry and peach cough syrup with a rose undertone. That result is far from the great heights Mona achieved with most of the Les Nombres d'Or line. I guess I am going to choose to believe this was not a finished product, but in its current state I rate Rose Etoile de Hollande a very disappointingly below average to average 2 to 2.5 stars out of 5. Not recommended and not a good representation of what Mona was capable of, IMO.
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