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Mairuwa
Top Review
10
Sensual chiaroscuro vetiver
It's remarkable what you can discover through the contacts here in the forum. I had never heard of Mona di Orio before - and she seems to enjoy an almost legendary reputation in interested circles: Even as a young woman, she was a student of Edmond Roudnitska and later worked closely with Serge Lutens before finally founding her own house, the "Maison Mona di Orio", together with the Dutch designer Jeroen Oude Sogtoen. Unfortunately, the cult of genius often includes early death - "Vetyver" was released in 2011, the year of its creator's death, and is therefore likely to be one of her last creations. Always open to new vetiver experiences, I have now been able to close this knowledge gap thanks to a generous sample from Mightynaf.
Intrigued by some controversial reviews, I wondered what to expect: perhaps not a "real" vetiver, as some have criticized? A conceptual anti-vetiver, perhaps? At the beginning, there is a brief sorting of the notes, during which many things flash out briefly. But it quickly becomes calmer and more linear. However, vetiver is present almost from the start, albeit not monothematically, despite the straightforward name. It is described as woody, earthy, even leathery. I agree, but at the same time it is gingery and fresh. A triad is crystallizing more and more: lots of sage, vetiver and ginger. Tart and slightly bitter. Underneath, warming labdanum, cistus resin and a hint of soothing musk. It was described as tallowy, oily, even fleshy. Can I understand that? Not if it is meant to describe something animalistic. But it has something intimate, cuddly about it. Almost organic, you could say. Restrained, almost introverted and sensual in a physical way: if this combination of attributes is not a paradox, it probably describes my feelings about the fragrance quite well. Perhaps it is this combination of apparent contradictions that is considered typical of Mona di Orio and is associated with the chiaroscuro style, in which expression and three-dimensionality are achieved through strong contrasts.
However, without the need to attract attention with particularly loud contrasts, "Vetyver" radiates a harmonious balance between coolness and warmth. Although it would be inappropriate to speak of a real similarity, "Exhale" keeps coming to mind in my search for something comparable, even if it is much more extroverted and a little too sweet for me due to too much amber and musk. "Vetyver" is more tart and therefore more balanced to my taste. It is unpretentious, even in its name, with the Y perhaps a little mannered at best.
"Vetyver" is a harmonious fragrance, but not a pleasing one. However, I would not describe it as difficult or particularly strenuous, as other reviewers sometimes perceive it. Challenging, yes - in a positive sense. It also has something grounding about it. And so it convinces me more as a fragrance (in the sense of Art-pour-l'Art) than as a perfume. A fragrance of rather moderate radiance - which is fine by me - but at the same time of considerable longevity. Perhaps a challenge or an affront for conservative fans of a Guerlain classic, but certainly worth considering for open-minded lovers of the many facets of sweetgrass roots.
A quick look at the exterior: The champagne bottle cap of the classic original bottle looks original, but is unfortunately purely decorative and neither functional nor necessary, because "Vetyver" is not such an explosive mixture. After Mona di Orio's death, her partner, Jeroen Oude Sogtoen, changed the bottle design and presented a less angular, more rounded design in every respect, which better reflects the sensuality and balance of the creations. I agree: it has something harmonious and at the same time very elegant about it. Coherent.
Top Notes 
Argentinean grapefruit
Madagascan blue ginger
Heart Notes 
Labdanum
Clary sage absolute
Nutmeg
Base Notes 
Bourbon vetiver
Patchouli
Virginia cedar
Musk
Tonka bean
Holscentbar
TapirMedard
