L'Air du Temps Nina Ricci 1948 Eau de Toilette

This is a special fragrance for me, in part because it was given to me by my husband when we were dating, back when the noble mastodon roamed free. I knew very little about fragrances, let alone their history. My mom told me L'Air du Temps Eau de Toilette was an EdT version of a famous perfume released to celebrate the peace after WWII.

I liked it anyway, but the historical significance made the scent nore interesting. It was telling a kind of story, and there was a point and a reason for the creation- to capture the joy and hope and pain which accompanied the peace at the end of that terrible war. Frances Fabron managed to do it. I understood why Mom, who was a WAAC during WWII, liked the fragrance so much, and it reflected her own feelings of happiness the war was over, her hopes for the future and her sorrow over the deaths and disabling of her friends and family and the unfathomable human losses and depth of human depravity the war revealed.

It opens bright from the citrus and neroli and a bit sweet from the florals and fruit. It has a happy, hopeful vibe, which is tamed somewhat by the spicy notes, which have a rather unexpected, slight coolness, which I think sets the tempering joy and hope with a kind of melancholy pattern of this fragrance.

The heart has a similar sense of hope and joy with the sweet florals, but again, the inclusion of lilies, a traditional funeral flowers and the iris, which puts a cool, powdery veil over the flowers, continues the very create mix of post-war hope, joy and melancholy. I think that trinity would be a difficult concept to realize properly, but it's beautifully realized here.

The base, on me, has very intimate projection and no discernable sillage trail, but it's woody, resinous, earthy and creates a sense of quiet and a kind of meditative peacefulness- the calm after the storm, maybe.

In any event, IMO, this fragrance is a significant artistic creation in the history of perfumery, as either EdT or EdP variations. L'Air du Temps Eau de Parfum captured a specific moment in human history, while managing to make a point about the sorrow accompanying any peace following a period of great human suffering and loss. I find that a rather amazing feat in any artistic medium. I'll always have this in my collection partially because it makes me think of my mom as a young woman (25 in 1948) before I knew her, partially because of my feelings about its significance and partially because it makes my husband happy I still wear it.

P.S. from your stern, old, great-auntie: yes, it's a powdery fragrance, but complaining the powder makes this feel "old lady" is just weird, considering you young whippersnappers and your penchant for iris and violet. Now, get off my lawn! ;)

It is a fragrance that due to its history pays homage to peace, love and freedom. It constitutes an air of change, since it was the first perfume with a floral-spicy composition, being described by Nina Ricci as the air we breathe, the mood of each moment and the reflection of each era.

It was created in 1948 in France, at a time after the war, but also at a time when new winds were blowing in the world of the great fashion houses, giving the women of that time hope and optimism, just as as Robert Ricci said "In L'Air du Temps there is something more than a combination of noble raw materials. There is a true miracle".

It is a classic perfume that was created by the perfumer Francis Fabron, from a romantic inspiration, of which he said: "I imagined the perfume that I would like to smell on the shoulders of the woman I love..."

As for the bottle, the first design was made by René Lalique, whose doves appeared spat into the bottle. In the 1951 edition, the bottle is modified into the version we know today, a stopper made up of two white doves, whose flight rises above a bottle that looks like a whirlwind.

For me, it is an exquisite fragrance. The output is marked by spicy notes, in which cloves stand out. The flowers are immediately perceived, especially the jasmine and the carnation, leaving everything wrapped in a very beautiful and youthful creamy nuance. It is a soft and tender aroma, but very rich in nuances.

It is evident that the aroma of now does not maintain the same intensity, projection and longevity of its predecessor, which does not mean that it is of worse quality. I understand with this formulation that they have adapted the aroma to the new times, resulting in more versatile and light to be used daily. Its low projection makes it a perfume for intimate and personal use, so it is ideal to wear indoors, since it is difficult for anyone to dislike it.

...And as I always say, aromas do not understand age. So, if you are a young woman or a mature woman, and you like it... ENJOY IT.

The younger generation of perfume users may never have experienced the beauty of vintage "L'Air du temps". This fragrance forged the international reputation of Nina Ricci as a producer of fine perfumes and was bottled in magnificently unique vessels (by Lalique). No wonder "L'Air du temps" became a classic like other unforgettable Nina Ricci perfumes ("Farouche", "Nina").
Fortunately, some perfumeries like Roja Dove's "Urban Retreat" in London still sell some Nina Ricci perfume-extraits in their precious chrystal vessels.

The current "L'Air du temps" Eau de toilette which comes in a glass container with a plastic cap on it is no longer the once marvellously romantic scent. Nevertheless, it still retains about 40% of its brilliance, and smelling it today I'm glad it survived in a world of fragrances that frequently seem to copy each other. Sadly, the spicy carnation is only a shadow of its old self, but probably the original formula was too expensive and considered too nostalgic for today's sober lifestyles. The reformulated version is very soft and light, reminding me of pastel silk veils wafting poetically about in the twilight under trails of weeping willows. Much better than some the usual fruity-floral stinkers of the season, but a "tragic" reformulation (quoting from Sherapop's excellent review) for those who knew and loved the old "L'Air du temps".

Is it me or the noses of Prince Matchabelli copied the notes from L'Air du Temps for their Windsong to me they smell simular to another with the same powdery notes. but L'air is a far superior creation then it's common sister Windsong, with it's gracefull
sinious lines an refind elegance a much softer and reserved aspect of Chanel no 5. I admire the notes very well they seem the carry without the headache inducing cloying effect in a lot of perfumes what's missing in my opinion is the note of aldehyde and it's predomint to my nose it's a gentile very suble aldehyde not sharp and dry like in allmost all perfumes then dries
to an spicy note of pink carnation.

The refreshing note of the bergamot and the brightness of the neorli plant makes it shine, the delecate rose just
blends in the backround dries to an powdery nuance of purple Violet grounded orris and exotic spices to lift
up the senses.

The drydown consists of iris and Warm Sandalwood with sweet amber and musk.

This is a symbol of PostWar Parisian
Coutore and the White Dove Resembles peace and the doves from the top of the flacon conjournes an image of a woman with red hair her hair piled in a coif
of the 1940's wearing an burgandy squaired sholdered dress with an carnation right at her blouse wearing a hat of a motif of pure white doves siting at an parisian caffee Ala Rita Hayworth.

A Beautiful Scent for an Beautiful Soul

With this gem I suppose Nina Ricci wanted to create a really nice scent. Perhaps the scent of all times. A scent that never becomes old fashioned. A scent that women want to wear no matter what year it is. Or time of year. It is a bit bold to expect that much from a perfume. But with L’Air du temps I think Nina Ricci, together with Francis Fabron, succeeded. Even though LAdT is a bit to the floral side, it is not too heavy. It blends wonderfully with my skin and stays there for a long time. Right now I am sitting on an airplane and it is 7 hours since I sprayed it. I can still smell it, nice and elegant, without having to sniff my wrist. It is just there. I am not afraid to bother the person next to me, since this is a perfume with a subtle identity.
I remember smelling it for the first time. I was a child and my mum had just got it as a present. I remember asking if I could smell it, and I thought I was in heaven when my mum dabbed a little on my wrist. That was a great day because I could smell it all day through. And the next morning when I woke up. I remember growing up and buying a bottle on one of my first trips abroad. I also remember the way the lady behind the counter looked at me, then commenting on its age and presenting Anaïs Anaïs to me. I stuck to LAdT. I had to own it.
Today I know that my father bought perfumes for my mum without sniffing or knowing anything about it. He probably asked the person behind the desk or grabbed a bottle that looked nice. With this bottle he definitely made a great choice. The bottle is iconic. The two doves performing what I would call a bird embrace or bird hug is adorable.
So, summing up on Nina’s probably most famous scent: it is still relevant and wearable. The bottle is worth it all and this is a scent all women can wear, because it is light and floral. A bold name for a beautiful perfume.
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