09/22/2013
Drseid
820 Reviews
Drseid
Very helpful Review
6
Jardins d'Armide's Sister Scent That Gets It Right...
Oeillet Louis XV opens with a fruity orange and dewy rose tandem with a slight carnation undertone. As the fragrance enters the early heart the orange dissipates as the carnation takes the fore, building in intensity with the rose hanging around in the background bolstered by traces of additional clove spice and powdery iris support. As the composition reaches the late dry-down the slightly powdery iris dies but the now diminished carnation remains, joining prominent white musk with a vague natural woody undertone fading in and out through the end. Projection is average and longevity is very good at 9-11 hours on skin.
When I first sprayed on Oeillet Louis XV I detected a similar early rose and orange combo I experienced with another of the Oriza L. Legrand compositions, Jardins d'Armide. Looking at the initial same 1909 formula release dates of the two it would not surprise me if the same perfumer composed both. That said, while Jardins d'Armide ratcheted the powder up to crazy high levels with the use of violet, Oeillet Louis XV swaps carnation for the violet, and that is the real star of *this* composition. The orange from the open thankfully does not hang around long with the rose used to support the carnation, working much more effectively than when paired with the orange blossom and violet in Jardins. The late dry-down is quite pleasant with the fragrance turning slightly sweet and just a tad woody, though the woods are quite subtle and at times elusive. The bottom line is the 120 euro per 100ml Oeillet Louis XV represents a mostly successful spiced carnation and rose presentation with just a touch of powder in the heart and a skillfully executed gentle light woody musk finish, earning a "very good" rating of 3.5 stars out of 5. Fans of fragrances like JHL by Aramis in particular will most likely enjoy this.
When I first sprayed on Oeillet Louis XV I detected a similar early rose and orange combo I experienced with another of the Oriza L. Legrand compositions, Jardins d'Armide. Looking at the initial same 1909 formula release dates of the two it would not surprise me if the same perfumer composed both. That said, while Jardins d'Armide ratcheted the powder up to crazy high levels with the use of violet, Oeillet Louis XV swaps carnation for the violet, and that is the real star of *this* composition. The orange from the open thankfully does not hang around long with the rose used to support the carnation, working much more effectively than when paired with the orange blossom and violet in Jardins. The late dry-down is quite pleasant with the fragrance turning slightly sweet and just a tad woody, though the woods are quite subtle and at times elusive. The bottom line is the 120 euro per 100ml Oeillet Louis XV represents a mostly successful spiced carnation and rose presentation with just a touch of powder in the heart and a skillfully executed gentle light woody musk finish, earning a "very good" rating of 3.5 stars out of 5. Fans of fragrances like JHL by Aramis in particular will most likely enjoy this.